They are plug and play with bit of setting up, but they wont fit the standard airbox, so you'll probably need to get an induction kit, and as you wont need the warm air feed in future, you can remove the air temp switch from the throttlebody elbow, as it is just another restriction to airflow
here it is in place
and here it is removed
now you need to fill the holes up, for the past year I've just used so insulation tape and its still going strong.
so the next thing to do is to remove the black top off the Airflow meters, so you can see the tensioning spring and wiper arm that tells the ecu whats happening. the top can be prised off with a screwdriver.
next you need a manometer its basically a u shaped peice of tubing with water in it, so you can measure the pressure of the flap in the AFM. I used airline for fishtanks, some cable clips and a peice of wood to make mine.
so now you can begin to change the AFM:-
1) with the standard GT setup and manometer connected to one of the holes in the throttlebody elbow warm the engine up. (cover the other hole up with tape, and the other end of the manometer should be left open).
2) when the engine is warm, make a note of the water level in the manometer and the position of the wiper arm in the AFM, then stop the engine.
3) unplug the lambda probe, so that the ecu is using the AFM to set the idle mixture
4) remove the GT AFM for the tube that connects it to the throttlebody elbow and force it over the Golf AFM (its a bit fiddly but it will go) and remove the rubber bung from the CO adjustment screw on the Golf AFM (its by the rubber connecting pipe) and also plug the golf AFM into the connecter that was on the GT AFM
5) restart the engine, with the golf AFM, and its will probably be coughing and spluttering, so to keep it running move the wiper arm in the AFM to where it was when you had the GT AFM connected
6) with an Allen key in the CO adjusting screw, turn it so that the wiper arm goes to that position automatically (the CO adjusting screw is an air bleed screw that allows the air to bypass the flap that offerates the AFM)
7) next adjust the spring tension that operates the flap, by undoing the screw and moving the geared wheel until the water level in the manometer is the same as when the GT afm was connected
8) do no.6 again for final adjustment
9) thats it done, just reconnect the lambda, disconnect the manometer and seal the holes up in the throttlebody elbow.
you may find that it needs a slight adjustment later, but that should be near enough spot on.







