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Queen changed their profile photo
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been doing some search and apprantley theres not brake bias valve is there is a abs unit as the abs does all of this, hmmm abs light is on. i have fitted new hubs with abs rings on the rear brakes. light still not gone off. must be one of the fronts.
- Today
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Front brakes pre '85 mk2 breadvan
dvderlm replied to bastibum's topic in Wheels, Tyres, Suspension and Brakes
Sanding what ... the slots for the pads? Not the pads. Did the pistons push back in easily? -
085 Gearbox - oil and plug
PHIL SWARBRICK replied to anessen's topic in Engine, Transmission and Exhaust
It's for checking the clutch so you can get a camera on a stalk down there to diagnose wear and faults. -
I got it in my head that I need to check the gearbox oil. I know that the box is getting tired, but I thought it might be a sensible thing to do. Looking at haynes, there is not a lot of information on how to do this. Is this even a sensible thing to do? I've noticed that there's a plastic plug that is very loosely covering a hole. It's on the top-front of the gearbox/clutch housing. What is this for? https://imgur.com/a/r8ExSnc
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HaS abs . ESP I think is for the later model polos.
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thvanbinsbergen joined the community
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Rear Shock Bolt Prob 9n Polo Mk 4 2002
Buzz9n posted a topic in Wheels, Tyres, Suspension and Brakes
Hi All. Sorry if this has been covered prev... but my Polo ( IV N9 2002 1.4 16V 74hp 55 kW ) has a Rear Shock Absorber bolt (16MM) that is spinning at the top attachment to the body. I was replacing the rear shocks and unable to undo the top bolts I paid a garage to release the Bolts with a 'ratchet' gun so I could undo them with a socket set. It appears the 'Captive ' ? nut inside the body has detached ? and is spinning. Does anyone have a solution please ? Even if it means cutting into the internal wheel arch to fix/find/sort the Captive nut ? some how ? Thanks in advance Cheers Buzz9n -
Buzz9n joined the community
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Front brakes pre '85 mk2 breadvan
Yeti replied to bastibum's topic in Wheels, Tyres, Suspension and Brakes
It's well worth at the very least changing the calipers for VW1's (same size disc but bigger pad area) or VW2's (same diameter, vented discs). -
Hasn't got one then. Does it have ESP control that brakes a wheel when detects spin beginning (as opposed to ABS that modulates off/on rapidly at emergency stop)?
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Sam kilford changed their profile photo
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Time Left: 29 days and 9 hours
- FOR SALE
- USED
I’m looking for a bit help identifying my polo engine I was told it came out of a 1978 mk1 But it doesn’t have engine numbers on the block above the flywheel it does have some on top near cylinder 4? (Closest to the flywheel) it has GL262391* would that mean it’s a GL 1300? I thought it was a 895cc,any help on clearing it up thanks 👍NO VALUE SPECIFIED
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The car is only lowered slightly but I cannot see The brake pressure regulator :
- Yesterday
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Michael du 28 changed their profile photo
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Front brakes pre '85 mk2 breadvan
bastibum replied to bastibum's topic in Wheels, Tyres, Suspension and Brakes
Yeah your memory is 100% correct. Getting the pads out was the easy part. I can't get the new ones to click in properly, not enough space for the new brake disc. Probably due to corrosion on the caliper bracket. Time to do some sanding 😔 -
Time was in short supply, but I got the brake gubbins fitted. Brake lines and anti roll bar went on too. Just need to fit the beam mounting bushes and it can go into storage until the time comes to fit it.
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Not mentioned in Haynes, as far as I could see (DOHC, ABS and Girling calipers), but I'd be surprised if there was no load compensator front/rear to adjust for loads of weight in the back. Follow the hydraulic lines back from the rear brakes. See if the go to a valve with a spring linked to rear axle? Is it lowered?
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That reservoir is above the master cylinder so no air will enter unless the fluid level becomes very low or you drive upside down and brake. Wall of death rider I talked to once said the brakes were the most dangerous things on the Indian Scout motorbike. so they remove them.
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Is there something wrong with this. The blue is a float goes up and down. When washer touches the metal contacts the brake warning light (handbrake light) comes on. But there is very minute gaps around the plunger, wont air get introduceed? been driving like this for ten years, was fine before doing the rear disc conversion
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I have changed the fronts with new calipers - stil same issue. rears temps are 150 C and front are 50 C. Both front and rear discs are new. The rear are super clean/shinry. The front seem to be still tryna bed in. its polo 6n afh. These dont have brake bias adjuster do they?
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MK1-2-3 Wet Floors Read this first please guys
dvderlm replied to JoeUK's topic in Bodywork, Interior and Trim
Inner door membrane? Rain can flow down window and pass the fabric on the rubber strip. On mine the rubber does not even reach full width. -
MK1-2-3 Wet Floors Read this first please guys
Jim1500 replied to JoeUK's topic in Bodywork, Interior and Trim
Just got my bready back after quite alot of body work including the battery tray. Quite a lot of rain this week and got in yesterday to find very wet floor on drivers side front and back. I had been hosing the car washing it and couldn't see anywhere obvious that it was coming in. The factory pop up sunroof seal had been cleaned out but there was still a small drip, but doubt it would let this much in, even over a week or so. Really annoying me as spent a lot on the car and a lot of damaged caused by wet floor due to rotten battery tray. Any ideas? Hopefully going to get the interior wet vac'd this week anyway so it'll help shift some of the water. -
Breathers are attached. Nice and snug. I think it could either be where i haven't got a good enough seal where i've blocked the fuel return line or i still haven't got the sender unit on tight enough. I managed to find the instructions that came with the Weber i have fitted. One of the steps is to reconnect the fuel return. The garage that fitted the carb for me didn't reconnect it despite having the instructions and having the car for about 6 weeks! Instructions say to use a T-piece with a restrictor in it, (the restrictor on the line leading back to the tank.) So i have got one of those, just need to get some more fuel hose and clips and i'll get that plumbed back in. I will be double checking all the fuel lines either before or when i do that. Didn't seem so bad last few days. I will in the meantime try the flour option. Thanks for that.
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#polo.16v changed their profile photo
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Stuff has been happening - front brake lines were finished. Rear brake stuff assembled ready for fitting. Powder coating now back with me. 🙂
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Got it a good clean up today, wipers and airhose fitted. Too wet to sort the plastics though. Checked electrics and everything seems to be working aside from the dashlights and the radio (think wire at back maybe pulled loose when centre console came out). Found drivers side carpet wet again 😒 going to be fun finding the source of that ☹️
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James C Gilbert joined the community
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Adz_0094 joined the community
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carburettor mk2 1989 saloon
dvderlm replied to wellskint's topic in Engine, Transmission and Exhaust
I found Weber 30DMTR to be about 3-4mpg better economy than the large Pierburg 2e3 I had (with 26mm secondary on GK) some of due to the 2e3's overenthusiastic auto-choke. A Pierburg is less likely to suffer carb icing due to the electrical channel heater, but warm air hose and standard enclosed filter make this unlikely event - but if you live in a fog hollow or drive over moors in damp winter a lot that might be worth thinking about. I found 32DMTL to be about same economy as the Pierburg but with better mid to top end feel for spirited B road driving. I think some of that is the Weber's mechanical operated secondary throttle plate as opposed to vacuum activated plus the DMTL enrichment circuit, so cornering using progressive throttle then flooring at apex does what the driver wants not what the engine suction indicates with a spring controlled delay https://www.hotrod.com/articles/vacuum-or-mechanical-secondary-carburetor/ is about Holley and Carter but same principles. A 34DMTR I tried was probably too large and didn't produce top end I expected, due to worn piston rings and gas pedal linkage after all. There is less to go wrong on a Weber, but probably too much freedom to fiddle. Bike carbs have slides to vary venturi size and will outperform most twin-choke carbs for flexibility I am told. -
carburettor mk2 1989 saloon
steveo3002 replied to wellskint's topic in Engine, Transmission and Exhaust
down to if you like the autochoke really i dont think there will be much in it power wise , the reports of webers transforming a car are when the pooburg was on its last legs i guess the weber could be re jetted if you plan to mod the car later on -
carburettor mk2 1989 saloon
wellskint replied to wellskint's topic in Engine, Transmission and Exhaust
Appreciate your replies. herein lies a dilemma. for about the same price a pierburg refurb or a new webber with a manual choke? -
Benson Gruber joined the community
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Lots of updates coming no amazing new performance parts yet, as I’m to busy chasing faults and making everything new again so the same fault shouldnt occur again, fingers crossed
