Jump to content
Notice to Hotmail/Gmail & BT Internet users - Please check your SPAM/JUNK folders for our emails. Please add our email as a contact to your email account.
Karl

Mark3 Clocks FAQ

Recommended Posts

Karl

With the Mark3, all models are set-up to accommodate the more sought after rev-counter clocks. There is no need to fit any additional wiring, unless you experience any problems with clock compatibility (which will be covered later).

Firstly, we will cover how to remove Mark3 clocks:

PLEASE NOTE THERE ARE OTHER METHODS FOR REMOVING CLOCKS BUT THIS IS THE EASIEST I FOUND

Removing Mark3 clocks

Basic tools required:

Philips head screw driver for removing the steering column shrouds

Radio keys

Long-ish flat blade screwdriver

This method does not require the removal of the steering wheel.

1. Start by removing the radio. This will allow you to reach around the dash into the clock aperture, and unclip the clocks from the dashboard on the left hand side later.

2. Remove steering column shroud. This is held in place by 3 philips head screws. 2 hold the shroud to the steering column, one holds the two halves of the shroud together. It can be a bit fiddly removing the top half of the shroud from the column, but be patient, it will come!

image0083hd.jpg

image0092xv.jpg

3. Next remove the headlight switch from the dashboard on the right hand side. Using your long flat blade screwdriver, you can reach into the hole that’s been left by removing the headlight switch, and push the spring clips in on the right hand side of the clocks. If you can’t reach the clips, you may have to remove the speaker cover and the speaker and get to them that way.

image0078tl.jpg

4. With the radio removed in step 1, you should be able to reach around into the clock aperture and unclip the spring clips on the left hand side.

5. With both sides unclipped, reaching in from the radio 'hole' you should now be able to push the clocks out towards you. As they come out of the dash, you want to angle them face down so you can get to the plug for the next step...

image0108lx.jpg

6. Reaching through the steering wheel over the back of the clocks (which should be face down) you can just see the plug holding the clocks in. Using your forefinger and thumb, squeeze the two clips in and pull the plug from the back of the clocks.

image0132th.jpg

7. Rotate the clocks 90 degrees, once freed from the wiring loom. his will now allow you to bring the clocks through the top of the steering wheel.

image0118am.jpg

With the clocks now removed, you can either swap the speedo into some GT/Genesis clocks to spec-up your lesser model, or get to the necessary bulb that has blown.

image0122zl.jpg

if you are transferring your speedo over, you'll want to undo the 6 philips screws that hold the dials to the surround. Simply remove the speedo from the 'new' clocks and put your speedo in.

Re-fitting is the reverse of removal, and make sure the plug is thoroughly re-connected, and that the speedo drive is properly plugged in, or you'll have to remove the clocks again!

It is important to note that you do not need to change the mileage on the clocks from a donor car, you can simply transfer your cars speedo into the new clocks, and this saves the hassle of having the mileage verified for MOT purposes, etc.

Late Spec and Early Spec Clocks

During the production span of the Mark3, subtle changes were made. These changes are largely under the skin, but you my encounter one of them when fitting clocks into a late L/M reg Mark3. Basically later Mark3s ditched the two oil pressure sender system in favour of a simpler single pressure sender that covered both high and low pressure (as opposed to the older method which used a sender for high and a sender for low).

When fitting Early clocks (which would use the two pressure system) into a late car, the clocks will trigger the oil pressure warning light and buzzer. This is because they are searching for a signal from the high pressure sender (above 2000rpm when the light and buzzer will trigger), but due to there not being a sender present, cannot find a signal, and triggers the alarm.

There are a few things you can do to get around this:

Fit some late spec clocks that have the red bar on the temperature gauge, and no temperature warning light. This is by far the easiest method.

Retrofit a high oil pressure sender and run it to pin number 8 on the clocks.

Run an earth to the clocks to trick them, (however if there is a genuine pressure problem, you may not be made aware of it).

Or finally an after-market rev counter.

The good news is that late-spec clocks will fit an early car, as (obviously) will early spec clocks. Just to remind you:

Early Clocks ---> Early Car

Late Clocks ---> Late Car

Late Clocks ---> Early Car

Early clocks are NOT compatible with late cars WITHOUT modification

And… Speedos are transferable between clocks to retain correct mileage for your car.

Hope this helps!

Karl.

Edited by Karl_CLCoupe

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
genesisGT

nice one karl, i remembered you doing that at the polo show and i was amazed/impressed you got it out with out removing the wheel. :-D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Karl

When you've tried numerous sets of clocks to try and find a compatible set for a late car, you're able to find short cuts :-):lol:

Certainly handy if you don't have a 24mm socket to hand for removing the steering wheel :wink:

Karl.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
HenryG40

Wicked FAQ, I've not had a reason to take mine out but my sisters squareback needs a bulb replacing so this should make life easier!

Cheers mate

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Jimsiss

or you could just get the proper keys for taking out the dash, they just look like U-shaped pieces of round metal and fit in the holes at the sides of the clock, me and my bro made some and its a hell of alot easier than taking the radio and switches out, just insert the keys and squeeze them a bit and then pull, pops the dash clocks out :-)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Karl

You can do that using an old coathanger. As I was saying really, that's one method I used that worked given the tools I had. But I would have to agree with you, that is a much easier way.

Karl.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
skatty_01

\Can you swap the rev counter unit from early dials with the clock from late-spec units? Eg take my late-spec dials out, and put the early-spec rev counter in place of the time clock?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest Sowler

Hello,

My girlfirend has 1.3 CL square back and the speedo has just suddenly given up the ghost. Of course I am the one which has too fix it :roll: I am assuming the speedo cable has just snapped and needs replacing? Is this the most likely outcome?

If so is it resonably easy to replace? I did have a search too see if had been mentioned before but didnt find too much.

Cheers

John

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Karl
Hello,

My girlfirend has 1.3 CL square back and the speedo has just suddenly given up the ghost. Of course I am the one which has too fix it :roll: I am assuming the speedo cable has just snapped and needs replacing? Is this the most likely outcome?

If so is it resonably easy to replace? I did have a search too see if had been mentioned before but didnt find too much.

Cheers

John

I would say without a doubt thats the cause of the roblem, though do check that the speedo drive is firmly plugged into the dash from the engine bay side. You will be able to find where the cable plugs into in the plenum chamber next to the front wiper motors. I had mine detach itself slightly from there giving the impression the cable had snapped.

If the cable has shapped its a nice easy job to do. a 22mm spanner (iirc) will allow you to remove the cable from the gearbox and it simply plugs into the clocks via a hole in the plenum chamber. Once undone at both ends, withdraw from the bulkhead and you're ready to run the replacement cable through the bulkhead (replacement cables usually have the gromets, etc fitted to them already so dont worry too much about having to retain those). With one end plugged into the clocks, you're ready to re-attach the other end to the gearbox, and jobs done :thumbsup:.

Karl.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Karl
\Can you swap the rev counter unit from early dials with the clock from late-spec units? Eg take my late-spec dials out, and put the early-spec rev counter in place of the time clock?

If you simply mean change an analogue clock for a rev counter, no, this is not possible as the circuit board for an analogue clock will not support the rev counter and vice versa.

Whilst the fuel/temp gauge and rev counter are all push fit into the circuit board, they are only compatible with a rev counter circuit board, and unfortunately not the ones for analogue clocks.

The only thing that can be interchanged between the clock units are the speedos should you want to retain your existing mileage.

Karl.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
skatty_01

One mroe thing - any way to tell the difference between early and late-spec?

Edited by skatty_01

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Karl

Yes.

Early spec clocks have a coolant temperature warning light situated to the left of the handbrake light.

Late spec clocks do not have a coolant temperature warning light, but instead have a red marking at the very top of the temperature gauge which is not found on early clocks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
beemer
Yes.

Early spec clocks have a coolant temperature warning light situated to the left of the handbrake light.

Late spec clocks do not have a coolant temperature warning light, but instead have a red marking at the very top of the temperature gauge which is not found on early clocks.

Any ideas how you remove the clear perspex bezel (the window you see the clocks thro :retard: )

I want to clean it but dont want to break it gettin it off :crybaby:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Karl

I'm sorry I cant help you myself with that one, as its something I haven't tried myself. As far as I'm aware the perspex is glued to the casing. All I can suggest id maybe contacting a user called 'Del'. One his Polo G40 he painted the casing black (its a green colour usually), which I'm assuming required the removal of the screen.

Hope that helps.

Karl.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest afcjay

any ideas how the needles come off.just pulled one of mine with long nose pliers and its snapped.can you buy new ones if not what could i use instead.any ideas

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
carpy25

use a old dining fork with a prong either side of the pin so you can lever the needle evenly, all neeedles are the same so go down the scrapie and get some off a cl dash loads of those in scrapies

Rob

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Karl
use a old dining fork with a prong either side of the pin so you can lever the needle evenly, all neeedles are the same so go down the scrapie and get some off a cl dash loads of those in scrapies

Rob

:nod:

I found that pulling the needles off near the round black plastic disc seemed to do the trick, though the fork method works very well.

As for the needles, again as above a scrappy is the best bet.

Karl.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest afcjay

the temp and petrol ones came off easy as they were on plastic splines.the rev counter and speedo are on brass splines and like i say where really hard.broke the speedo one so didnt trust the rev counter,so cut the dial itself,dont look to bad.when i can source a few spare needles will give em a go using the fork method.thanks anyway

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
the brit

Any chance of a wiring diagram or pin-out for early mk3 clocks? I've got one (water warning light to the left of handbrake warning light) that i'm using in a USA only model, so i need to know which wires go where. Cheers!

Damn, my first post on this forum, and i do it in a FAQ thread. Sorry! I'll repost in the normal forum, so as not to clutter this thread up!

Edited by the brit

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
skatty_01

How would you go about retrofitting an oil pressure sender to early spec clocks? Is it a big job?

I've not found a set of latre clocks yet!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Karl

When fitting the pressure sender, you're wiring in the hardware for the clocks to use, rather than modifying some earlier clocks.

If you look at the head near the 1st spark plug you will see your single oil pressure sender, and not too far away from it a metal blank. The blank is covering where the 2nd sender would be fitted. You would need to remove the blank from the head, route wiring and take it to the multi-pin connector for the clocks.

The pressure sender you need is available from GSF I believe.

Karl.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
timmy

I've got a gt conversion but my rev counter doesnt work, when i start the car up the needle lifts slightly but thats it, no movement. any ideas what this is without removal?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Karl

Sounds like an issue with the engine bay wiring loom rather than the clocks. Check the loom around the coil and the plugs for continuity.

Karl.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest f3x

Hello everybody,

Sorry for my first topic be in a FAQ but I really need help.

I'm from Portugal and i have the lucky (or not! :-)) to owner a mk3 Polo 1.4D of 1992

exactly that scrapp that you are thinking but it makes very low consumption! :-o

So,

- I brought a clocks from a G40 of 1992

- Change the speedo to stay with the original kilometres

- Mount all and start the engine

So far so good but when the engine start the rev counter at idle speed stays between 6500 and 7000.(@ middle of redline)

Anyone knows why this happen? What should I do? Any ideas?

Thanks for any help.

Regards

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Karl

I'm not at all sure when it comes to that question as we never got the diesel over here officially., and if a few models have made it over here no one has tried to swap to rev counter clocks (yet!).

It could be possible that the rev counter clocks aren't compatible with the disel models, or they had their own model specific rev counter with a lower redline?

Karl.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. Terms of Use Privacy Policy Guidelines