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Oil light mid to high revs.

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   I've recently got an ABD up and running in the mk3 (2f) polo. The block is an ABD, rehoned, washed out, new rings and bearings. The head is the ABD one, casting marks and sharp inner radius to valves smoothed out. GT cam, new valve oil seals and various other seals. Gt injection set up.

It seems to run well but once up to temperature, when accelerating in the medium to high revs, the oil light starts to flash. If I lower the revs it might go off but it will come back on in medium revs, after a while it will just stay on and only go off if I turn the ignition off and start it back up again. None of it appears to affect the performance, just the oil light comes on and I can't figure out why :unknw:

So far I've:

Tested the oil pressure - around 0.25 bar at idle, around 1.8 bar at 2000rpm and doesn't rise above that with higher revs.

Replaced both oil pressure sensors, seperately, neither made a difference.

Chopped off old pressure sensor wiring connectors, stripped wire back and fitted new ones.

Checked the oil breather pipes for kinks and blockages - cleaned the seperator on the block during rebuild.

None of this has solved the issue.

If I ground the yellow wire (high oil pressure I believe) then the light wont come on at all. Only issue is I've tried both old and new sensors and the problem comes back. The old sensor is off my AAV engine and is 1.4 +/- 0.2 bar, the new one is 1.8 +/- 0.2 bar from ECP.


It may be related or it may not but I cant get it to idle perfectly either, sometimes it will idle around the 920 area but other times more like 1000 - 1100. I've done ignition and idle to the GT timing guide on here but had to wind the idle screw down as far as it would go. Ignition timing is spot on.

Another thing is the two white wires for the lambda probe pulled out their socket and both being white I'm not sure which way round they're meant to be so I've had to put them back without knowing if they're the right way round, is there a multimeter test I can do to figure that out?


Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you.




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I came across a case some time back, where someone had done an engine overhaul and wiped all of the internal parts clean with what looked like old blanket.

These textile fibres had completely covered the oil pump pick-up strainer, forming a mat-like coating over the mesh.

A bit of a long shot, but I have also seen the result of laying radiators down flat. As well as the risk of mechanical damage whilst it is in that position, any sediment can solidify in the tubes, causing partial blockage. But if this were the case, you would probably have mentioned high coolant temperatures.

It might be a good idea to change the oil and filter before you do much else. Buy a good quality filter and I would think SAE 10W40 oil.

If there is any chance that there are fibres on the pick-up strainer, a good time to clean it would be while the oil is out.



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Thank you for the reply, it was pretty clean on reassembly but by no means perfect as it was done in my shed and rags got used plenty to be honest. I forgot to mention it is using running in oil (10W40) currently but that's close to coming out and a new filter and some semi 10W40 going in. I will check the pick-up strainer during the change over. I did clean it by dipping the strainer end in some isopropyl alcohol and stirring it about. Had days after to dry out before going on the engine. Will deffinately notice if it's blocked at all cause it was really clean.


It does run a bit hotter than the AAV but not loads.


Also noticed the buzzer never goes off, just flashing oil light. Buzzer could just be broken though.


I noticed in the Haynes, for the AAV it says 2.0 bar and for the Golf ABD it says a minimum of 2.0 bar. I was under the impression that if the polo pressure sensor went above 2 bar it would flash up the oil light the same as if it was too far below? But what I'm reading is the ABD is a minimum of 2 bar. Wondering if this could be the cause?



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I have always tended to use genuine VW sensors (of all sorts)  - I've been 'led up the garden path' too many times with non-genuine ones.

I know that they are (sometimes) cheaper than genuine, but then if you have to replace them again, it becomes more expensive. The cost of a genuine unit can work out cheaper in the long run.

If the low oil pressure buzzer is constantly 'on', then you either have actual low oil pressure or (and more likely) a faulty sensor. but just to check that it isn't a wiring fault, try disconnecting it at the sensor end - if it continues to buzz, then there is a wiring fault.

Unless you are using a calibrated pressure gauge, the difference between your 1.8 and the recommended 2.0 bar may simply be down to the gauge that you are using.

I'm pretty sure that the light won't come on if the pressure goes higher. The pressure is regulated by the relief valve on the pump, so IF that stuck in the open position, you would have low pressure and if it didn't open, then the pressure would continue to rise.

remember that the pump creates FLOW, it is the resistance to that flow which creates PRESSURE - having said that, if a pump is badly worn it will result in low pressure.

For your own peace of mind, it might be an idea to fit a petermen oil pressure gauge, but if you do so, you will also need a 'T' piece to screw the sensor and the gauge into.

You can obtain all that you would need to do this from vehicleproducts.co.uk and download their free catalogue.

If you don't have an air compressor for blowing out your pick up strainer etc., a can of  'Fellows Air Duster' (sold for cleaning things like computer keyboards) can be useful but won't last too long.


Let us know what you find.




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