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mattpolog40

Timing driving me up the wall polo g40

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mattpolog40

I've wrote a previous thread about this problem but this has now been going on for over 3 months now.my g40 will not run properly and when it does decide to run it runs like a bag of nails.when I turn the key all that happeneds is the fuel pump primes and you can hear he hall sender click and then fuel squirt out of the injectors.both timing marks are perfectly lined up and I think the problem lies with the distrubitor and it's an ignition timing problem.the car has had new coil pack,rotary arm,distrubitor cap,leads,plugs,alternator,starter motor,lamba sensor and battery.but for some reason the car will just not do what I want it to do.the leads are in the correct order as I say my timing marks line up what else could be the problem?if anyone has any ideas please feel free to advise me as I'm going insane many thanks matt

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steveo3002

just to confirm ...belt marks both line up and piston nearest cam belt is all the way up?  and then check rotor arm points at the notch in the dizzy housing , that shoud be close enough to run then fine with a strobe once its going

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mattpolog40

Screwdriver down cylinder no1 is at the top and marks are perfect.my distributor cap doesn't have a notch but the rotary arm no1 lead sits closest to the radiator pointing just down abit does that sound about right 

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steveo3002

if no notch does it line up with where number 1 plug lead goes on the cap

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mattpolog40

Yes mate the arm lines up with number 1 lead which is why I'm scratching my head 

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steveo3002

suggests thats all ok then...all you can do is check it over and over incase you missed something

 

embarrassingly i got the plug leads on wrong when i swapped my engine   

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mattpolog40

That's what worries me everything seems ok.ive check lead order took them off and started again.checked plugs both plugs and leads are new.do you reckon it's worth doing a compression test?

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steveo3002

wouldnt hurt i guess

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caretakerplus

As Steveo says, it's all too easy to get the firing order wrong, so again it would pay to double treble or even 4bl  5bl check it .

As you already know, the firing order is 1;3;4;2 in fact there are only two POSSIBLE firing orders (the other being  1;2;4;3.

So, having checked that the rotor arm points to number one on the cap when the inlet and exhaust valves are closed on cylinder number ONE -  check that the next lead is to number 3 cylinder, the next one to number 4 and the last on to number2.

Let us know how you get on.

 

Regards

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dvderlm

Hall sender in the distributor? As you've replaced everything else.

 

(or leads at connector or  loom  to it from Digifant ECU)

The Hall sender should not click... vanes pass through a gap.

The rotor arm might click as it makes contact with each leads contact inside distributor cap but will quickly wear to be silent...  

 

 

Edited by dvderlm

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mattpolog40

Ah I didn't realise there were two firing orders is it worth me trying the 1243 as I had a play yesterday and it still does not want to play ball at all.

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dvderlm

Vw specifies 1342.

If the problem is ignition timing then using 1243 sequence will make no difference, just confuse anyone working on your car.

 

You can test the Hall sender and ignition amp with a multi-meter or an LED and resistor on TCI-H ignitions, so same procedure should apply for Digifant. Haynes chapter 12?

 

 

 

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mattpolog40

Right ok I'm convinced it's an ignition problem as it only starting giving me problems when I replaced the distributor.

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dvderlm

That was back in March with a Vipertronix new replacement dizzy.

 

Most engines will start with 10 degrees static advance BTDC. That's about 4mm at dizzy circumference. Get it running at idle let it warm with bonnet closed then rotate top forwards a fraction, then use the timing light.

If your light it has an advance control you could read how much advance it is running with.

 

To actually set the timing on G40, you need to have  engine at operating temp,  disconnect temp sender and read at 2000 to 2500rpm for 5 deg +or-1. This fools the Ecu into using warmup map, otherwise the Digifant will be correcting for manifold pressure and because engine is not pushing the car it will be thinking you must be coasting downhill and it'll drop the fuel and advance even more. Oh also make sure all vacuum hoses are connected during this. 

 

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mattpolog40

Thanks for the advice will have a play this afternoon and let you know what happens 

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