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AndysBluePolo

What does this do?

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AndysBluePolo

A few months ago my MK2 Polo, 1.3i, came to a stuttering halt. I was on the motorway and started to lose power, when I pulled off the motorway it gave up and stopped. My first thoughts were fuel problems, I had a quarter of a tank,  so running out of fuel wasn't the problem. Maybe dirt in the tank or blocked fuel lines. Anyway, I called the breakdown service and the guy had a look around the engine and pushed a part back into place, something to do with a vacuum. Am shit with engines! The engine started first time after he did that.

 

Last weekend I did a hours drive into Belgium and then back home again later, the car didn't feel right, a slight bit of stuttering again, but I got home without breaking down. The next day I have a look and go straight to the part that was the problem before. The hose it is connected to had fallen apart. I went to the garage today and he fitted a new hose, but said the engine shouldn't stop working if that part was not connected.

 

Here is the part am talking about. What is it and who is right? The garage or break down service (ANWB, Dutch AA). If that isn't what's causing the stuttering, then what is?

 

Thanks,

Andy

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Edited by AndysBluePolo

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steveo3002

looks like the crank case breather....correct it shouldnt stop the car running if it comes apart 

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AndysBluePolo
1 hour ago, steveo3002 said:

looks like the crank case breather....correct it shouldnt stop the car running if it comes apart 

Thanks for the help. ANWB guy got lucky with my car then. Now to find out what's causing the stuttering/loss of power now and then. 

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steveo3002

what is it ?  nz or 3f ...describe what happens

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AndysBluePolo

It's a NZ. When it broke down, I was on the motorway and it started to judder and lose power. I pulled off and a bit further down the road it stuttered and judder lots and then it lost all power. Turned the key and nothing, dead. After an hour the break down service came and he looked around, tried starting it, couldn't see what he was doing. Then it started. He pointed to the crank breather and said that it was loose. That was the problem. 

 

It's been mostly fine since then, but I still feel it stuttering very slightly now and then. Am still thinking fuel issues. Blocked lines or something. 

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steveo3002

crank case breather wouldnt make it dead ...you mean no cranking /nothing?

 

you could get a code reader and see if theres any faults , otherwise things that spring to mind are fuel filter , or blue temp sender , assuming all the ign service parts are good 

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AndysBluePolo

Yeah, nothing happened when I turned the key. I shall see how it goes as at the moment it's hard to tell if its stuttering or am paranoid. lol

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steveo3002

coincidence that it started up then

 

dead would be battery cables not tight , ign switch /fuse box problems at a guess

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AndysBluePolo

Yeah, that's what I said today to my Mrs. He just got lucky. 

 

I have a lot to check then! 

 

Thanks for the help!

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nige8021

The stuttering and cutting out then being able to restart after a while are classic symtoms of the hall sender in the distributor failing.

 

As for being totally dead as per Steve's suggestions

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steveo3002

if you find it dead again , would be usefull to know if anything electrical works at all , side lights , main beam , anything?

 

theres an earth strap near the alternator check thats good and undamaged , cheap to replace if it looks tired

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AndysBluePolo

The electrics still worked as I had my hazards and radio on while I waited.

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caretakerplus

As Nige says, sounds to me like the Hall sender is on its way out.

Next time (if there is a next time) if you can get it off of the road into a safe place, just allow it to stand for about an hour (don't be tempted to try starting it in the meantime) - if it starts and runs after that, it probably is a faulty Hall sender.

When the car is running correctly, these things are difficult to diagnose, particularly as it probably wouldn't throw up a fault code.

 

Most people fit a new distributor, as fitting just the Hall sender is a fiddly job, and would probably cost more in a mechanic's time than a new distributor would cost.

 

Regards

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AndysBluePolo
2 minutes ago, caretakerplus said:

As Nige says, sounds to me like the Hall sender is on its way out.

Next time (if there is a next time) if you can get it off of the road into a safe place, just allow it to stand for about an hour (don't be tempted to try starting it in the meantime) - if it starts and runs after that, it probably is a faulty Hall sender.

When the car is running correctly, these things are difficult to diagnose, particularly as it probably wouldn't throw up a fault code.

 

Most people fit a new distributor, as fitting just the Hall sender is a fiddly job, and would probably cost more in a mechanic's time than a new distributor would cost.

 

Regards

Cool, thanks for the info. I shall try and not start it again if it happens. The temptation will be strong! lol 

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