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Polo1.23dr1977

Clutch slipping- instructions on clutch change 9n

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Polo1.23dr1977

Hi all, Can anyone give me instructions on how to change a clutch in a polo 1.2 54 plate 9n please, the clutch has been slipping slowly for few weeks now is slipping bad on heavy acceleration,  also would I need to bleed the clutch after fitting? thanks all

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Polo1.23dr1977

anyone

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Pete1

I think Haynes will cover it reasonably well. 

Gist of it is...

Support engine and gearbox (from above ideally, with a beam across wings and independently adjustable slings)

Remove battery, box and any other gubbins in the way, nearside arch liner too.

Disconnect shift cables

Remove slave cylinder from box but leave connected to hydraulic line

Disconnect front section of exhaust (to allow some engine movement up/down and forwards, which helps in getting the box out/in)

Disconnect driveshafts from drive flanges, tie up out of the way, may be easier if you completely remove the nearside one for more working room.

Remove dogbone and gearbox mounts

Remove starter motor, unbolt electrics bracket from front and disconnect reverse light switch

Undo remaining gearbox bolts  (don't mix up with the longest of the dogbone bolts or tears may follow)

 

Make sure box is well supported and balanced, then disengage it from the clutch outwards, then lower down and out past subframe.

 

Remove old clutch, fit new one centering carefully, then refit everything.

 

There shouldn't be any need to bleed the clutch as the hydraulic circuit doesn't get opened.

 

Can be a good time to drain and replace the gearbox oil while it's out.

 

Biggish job to be honest and I've probably missed a few things in the above list, do you have the facilities and tools?

 

Edited by Pete1

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Polo1.23dr1977

thanks ive started the job today, ive taken out the drive shaft completey and then removed the driveshaft inner shaft what goes into the gearboox and noticed fluid was coming out, is this because ive got the car on axel stand tipping front of car upwards? i watched a video and they removed that piece, not sure why that inner drive shaft has to come out tho?

so now i need to drain and empty the gearbox oil, how much oil does it take and what sort thanks p.s is it nessary to undo front of the exhaust? thanks mate

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Pete1

Yeah, if you take the drive flanges off, the gearbox oil can be expected to fall out. It's not completely necessary to do so, but it does make it easier to wriggle the box out and back in again (just makes the whole thing a bit smaller and less likely to catch on stuff).  I took the offside one off the first time I did this job, but left both on the second time.  The reason it's useful to disconnect the front exhaust section is that it allows you to move the engine up and down if necessary, and forwards.  Moving everything forwards away from the subframe may help create space to get the gearbox out and back in again. 

 

Capacity of the box is 2 litres.

Edited by Pete1
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Polo1.23dr1977

gearbox out today and clutch plate worn, does it matter which way the new clutch kit goes? as i forgot to mark it, same with the flanges, here is a picture of the clutch, and the flywheel ? ( if its what its called?) thats on the inside of the engine where the clutch plate goes on - how do i know if that is worn and need changing?374364401_Screenshot2020-02-25at17_13_13copy.thumb.jpg.5bad0a87dbebfe4bb9f2416d5c6ff302.jpg

Screenshot 2020-02-25 at 17.13.35 copy.jpg

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nige8021

Normally on the clutch plate there is stamped on the metal centre part "flywheel/engine side" or something like that 

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Polo1.23dr1977

also ive just used the clutch aliment tool, does this look ok?new1.thumb.jpg.59f8480857cb9b90011c78f49a743135.jpgnew.thumb.jpg.de44220105dea8bc7c2f9a08641f3ac6.jpg

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Polo1.23dr1977

1234454.thumb.jpg.8163d9d4b0c79a92aac52ad11fccc5e0.jpg

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Polo1.23dr1977

hi all clutch in today but having trouble with the drives shafts, they dont seem to turn all the way round with wheels on, wondering if ive pulled out the cv joints, started car up and clutch is fine and gears go in ok, not drove it tho as wheels wont go all the way around also the lower gearbox mount bolt just keeps spinning in its hole, what size bolt do i need to replace it?bolt goes into the round bit see pic

Screenshot 2020-02-27 at 22.00.24.png

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Pete1

Not sure about the driveshafts, but be very careful what you do with that rearmost dogbone bolt. The (M10) OEM one is 61mm long, whatever you do, DON'T put anything longer in there, the steering rack is right above the captive nut that that goes into, and putting even a 65mm long bolt in there dents and wrecks the hydraulic bit of the rack. That's why it's important not to mix up this bolt with some of the 65mm long ones that hold the gearbox to the block.

 

Unless the bolt thread looks badly damaged, it sounds like you may have stripped the thread in the captive nut, or it's broken free and is no longer captive. Tricky...

 

Screenshot 2020-02-28 09.12.59.png

Edited by Pete1

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Polo1.23dr1977

yeah i can see the captive nut on the top near the rack and when i turn the bolt it just turns but the captive nut doesnt move and the bolt wont drop out? seems to hold it in there but loose and engine moves forward on revs? maybe drill a new hole? p.s sorted drive shafts cv joint had popped out of the drive side innercv joint, cant seem to get it back in yet, raining all day here, think i may have to take the drive shaft out and take cv boot off to see whats going to.....

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Polo1.23dr1977

had a look today and the bolt has snapped off in the captive nut, any ideas ? if i drill the bolt out it may damage the captive nut? can i join the gearbox mount under the sub frame(just under where it supposed to seat, and put a new bolt through it a and put a nut through where the mount is supposed to go, this will hold it but will it be ok for mot? also clutch pedal very low after clutch change, biting point just off floor?

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