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Fernandez

How to fit speakers to door pockets mk3

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Fernandez

Modifying door pockets to take 5 1/4” components for MK3 Polo.

I want to start out by saying that I BY NO MEANS class my self as an I.C.E expert. What I am doing in the following is sharing how I made my door pockets. I am not saying that this is the best or easiest way to do it, nor am I saying the speakers will perform their best in the door pockets I made. I am just showing a few interested people how I did it.

After looking into getting a semi decent audio set up in my car I decided that the tiny speakers in the dash weren't going to be good enough for the whole front so I decided to fit some components in the door pockets.

As after all. It is a fairly long door pocket and there are plenty of cubby holes everywhere else!

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My first step was to offer the speaker up to the door pocket to see how much they overhung. The door cards have to be removed to get the pockets off as they are screwed through the back. It's easy enough to get them out. Just take off the door furniture, the 2 screws at the rear and undo the clips. With the cages on the speakers are not that much bigger than the pockets so i decided it wouldn't look too bad if i made a decent enough job of it.

Next job was to find some tube that would be about the same size as the speaker, this way hopefully it wouldn't look like the speaker was just bodged into the pocket, it would look like the pods were actually incorporated into the door cards. My only requirement for visuals was that it looked as standard as possible.

The tube I used was from B&Q warehouse. It needed to be about 6” to match the size of the outer diameter of the cage. I found some that looked like 6” but the price label said it was 110mm which is clearly not 6” but knowing what B&Q is like, it took my verniers with me and sure enough my suspicions were right – the 110mm tube was in fact 150mm. So £3.48 later I had a 500mm length of 6” corrugated tube.

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Next job was to cut away the door pocket where the tube would be. I did this by carefully drawing around the speaker cage as this is the same size and easier to keep still. Then i use a haxsaw to do a series of straight cuts making sure i left a small amount of meet inside the line. I then finished it off with a really savage wood file to get it to the line.

I have separate tweeters so I then cut the hole for them with a hole saw of the correct size i conveniently already had. Once I was happy with how they sat in the pockets/cards i held the tubes to the pockets with some tape from the front.

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I then made the inserts for the tubes which they speakers screw to. I think MDF is best for this but i used 25mm thick ply as i already had some square boards from an old set of speakers I made. I drew around the tube this time and cut to near the line with a coping saw. It's important that these are a really good fit in the tube as it has to seal for the speaker to sound good. Again using a file taking off a small amount at a time i got them closer to the line and then stopped once i managed to get them inside the tubes. They were very tight which i was glad about. I sealed them in with no more nails. Some on the outside of the wooden ring and then some on the back sealing it to the inside of the tube.

The next job was to fit the tubes to the pockets. I wanted my speakers to fit flush so I cut I think it was 60mm lengths(3 corrugations) and then cut a small amount away from the top and front so that it could go back further. I have separate tweeters so I then cut the hole for them with a hole saw i conveniently already had. Once I was happy with how they sat in the pockets/cards i held the tubes to the pockets with some tape from the front.

This way i knew they wouldn't move but also it would stop and excess filler paste coming out of the front creating more work sanding down. I used fiberglass paste, It worked very well but it's quite messy. I hadn't used paste before but believe me it's MUCH easier than trying to lay up using sheets and resin. It's literally a case of mixing the hardener in and then applying to the back to seal it in.

I did it in stages as it set quite quickly with the amount of hardener I used so I didn't have to time to do both of all of them in one go. The first layer was like bonding the tube to the pocket and then after that I built up the layers until they were flush with the back to stop any possible vibration. Once it set i just got all the rough edges off and made it look a bit neater.

After first lot -

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I then applied a layer to the front filling the small gap due to the tube being corrugated. I decided to use a layer of fiberglass filler on the front as i didn't want it to crack and i decided it would seal it much better than filler.

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Once i was happy that it was all sealed up I started sanding the fiberglass back and then applying filler. Depending on how fussy you are this could take all day. I was thinking about removing the pattern on the pocket as where i had smoothed with the filler would not have the pattern but I decided against it as at the end of the day, its only a door pocket, not bodywork!

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Once I was happy with how they looked I gave them the first coat of plastic primer. This really gives you an idea of how bad your filler looks so I then set about a few more layer of filler. Once i was happy with that i then did another few coats of primer.

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Then, I drilled the holes for the speakers, it's advisable to do it before you paint the top coat as if you scratch it you have to do it all agian! I also had to fit the crossover boxes. They conveniently fit behind the tube in the door card out of sight but still accessible.

Then, once that was all done I sprayed it all with matt black. The filler doesn't look perfect but it's good enough for me!

I extended the wires from the dash speakers. I ran them behind the dash and then under the seal and drilled a hole near the bottom of the door and put the wire through a grommet, peeled back the sticky back plastic to get my hand in to find the wire and then cut a small hole in it and and dirlled one in the back of the door card to post the wire through. Then it was all assembled properly. Job done.

Materials used – Plastic tube – B&Q £3.48

Fiberglass Filler – Halfords/motor world etc- £10(it is a big pot)

Bodywork Filler – Already had some but Halfords etc £4.99

Plastic primer - Halfords/Motorworld etc - £3.99

Matt Black Spray Paint – Halfords/Motorworld etc - £5.99(large can)

Total Cost - £28.48

End result -

Before -

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After -

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Guest poloscunny

I'm going to be doing this very soon with my new comps when i get them. what is you are speakers called btw?

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Fernandez
thanks for this mate. defo stick this please el moderatoros

Nay worries. Tried to post it in the FAQ section but not allowed to post in there.

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genesisGT

that looks top notch mate!!! very impressed.

makes me wish i didn't but the audioscape ones!

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Narrow_Lane

cheers for this mate you're a legend!!! I will do this to my mk2 door cards and try to post up what you have to change. Not gonna be til easter/summer break tho.

STICKY THIS MODS

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Swize

Pics seam to be down for me get them back up would you would love to try this with my polo.

Sam

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Mike_Rigby

do this this weekend hopefully

instead of using tubing i'm going to be using a 25cd cake tin lid per side.

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Farnsy

Is this the same for mk2's?

Thanks Adam

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