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Steve_O

FITTING CENTRAL LOCKING IN A MK3 :: FAQ!!

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Steve_O

Right - this one's just as much a how NOT to as a how to, as I made a couple of monumental cockups on the way. But hey, you get to laugh at my mistakes as well as learn from them!!

So, you want to fit central locking do you?? Well this FAQ should give you some clues on how best to install it. It only covers the 2 doors mind.

For a FAQ on the hatch - check elsewhere in the FAQs section.

THE KIT

kit.jpg

Here is the kit I used. It's a 2-door kit which cost around £15 on eBay. Click here to search ebay, or here for the same product on the company's website.

Alternatively, Maplin sell a similarly priced alternative.

FITTING THE ACTUATORS

Before you even think of fitting your new central locking kit - READ THE INSTRUCTIONS!!! {322}

I will be telling you to ignore most of them - but for god's sake - don't get two thirds of the way through the installation only to find that the window won't open anymore - NOOOOOOOOO!!!!!

Possibly the stupidest thing I've ever done on my car, maybe even in life. I sat there in shock for a good five minutes once I realised!! {3}

Anyway - the first thing to do is to remove your door cards - as per Haynes manual instructions. Then, carefully peel back the plastic door liner. Alternatively, peel it back recklessly and follow my other FAQ on replacing the shitty door liner - which keeps the rain out by the way - or rather it doesn't after 10-15 years!! :evil:

With the door card and liner removed - you should aim to install the actuator about here...

position.jpg

As you can see, the top screw for the actuator comes very close to where the trim clip for the door panel goes - but that can be trimmed down easily enough to fit back in if needs be.

With the location determined, you need to make up some linkages to operate the lock pin. Now, included with the kit are some rods and little screw on couplings to connect the rods straight to the door pins, but bear in mind this is a universal kit - and we can in fact do a much neater installation.

If you look up inside the door - you may, if sufficiently contorted, see a little white lever. If you feel it, you will find there is a small hole through it. This is where I hooked my linkage up to...

lever.jpg

Bending the supplied rods is difficult unless you have a bench vice - so seek out some suitably stiff, yet more flexible wire to make the linkages with. An old wire coathanger fit the bill for me, and I even used some of its curves to gain the right effect.

Making the linkages this way involves a bit of trial and error, but the result is worth it. Just be sure they won't flex or disengage over time.

As it says in the instructions, make sure the actuator and lock are both in the down position. This is tricky on the driver's side, as you have to trick the door into thinking it's closed to get the lock pin to go down.

Oh, one more thing - if you have GT or G40 seats - don't sit on your bolsters whilst you do the work!! {322}

WIRING

Getting wires into your door from the cabin is a bit of a mission, or a stroke of genius depending on how you do it.

My method was to take the doors off, drill through the doors and drill through the A-pillar.

If that sends you screaming in terror - then there is an alternative...

easy.jpg

What Steve of the Concept-e brothers (cheers for pic steve!! ;)) has done here is to run some wires through a length of plastic braiding and up behind the doorcard. I think it looks quite neat - and in retrospect I almost wish I'd done it that way to save the hassle of taking the doors off!!

Nevertheless - if you're going for an arguably more factory look - you could go for the harder option...

hard.jpg

What we've got here are the wires passing through some heatshrink tubing from a hole in the A-pillar to a hole in the door. The tubing is protected from the raw metal by a gromet each end, cut to fit around the tubing and then into the hole.

The camera really makes it look shit - but it goes pretty much unnoticed in real life. The small amount of rust visible on the hole in the door shows how important it is to treat the raw metal with a touch of paint. This pic was taken a day after the hole was drilled!!

Anyway - with the hardest two bits done - the rest of the wiring is a cynch!! Just find a power source, in my case the stereo wiring made good sense, as would the cigarette lighter as these probably come under a single fuse for ancillaries.

HINTS AND TIPS:

If you're after remote central locking, there is an option to buy a remote from the company that supplied the kit, or alternatively, use the two trigger wires to connect to a compatible alarm system.

To make one of the actuators passive, connect only the green and blue wires. If done on the passengers side, this means that if a passenger pushes down the lock-pin as they get out, it won't cause your door to lock. Remember the driver's side lock-pin is not meant to go down whilst the door is open, so you'd do best to wire it this way.

To get the wires and connectors through a small hole (10mm), you will need to tape the wires together in a staggered configuration, and remove the bindings further up the wiring loom.

THAT'S ALL FOLKS!! ;)

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Ben '71 1200

Just a couple bits from my experience as well.

I actually found it easier with the locks unlocked (remembering to keep the solenoid in the top position)

and...

the rods supplied bend fine with 2 pairs of pliers. they did in my kit anyway :)

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djtez

I'm having a problem with mine.... basicly i did the easier way and went adn bought two door fittin with the central locking pumps:|...

and there installed and the wiring comes out the door... ok here the problem ,,, now what :| ??

i dont know which wires area what?

there is no instruction manual and the boy a got the doors from doesn't know what is what either ??!

any help would be help!!

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bluey

any chance of getting the images back up??

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Scott_GT

Yes, i want to see the images

Cheers

Scott

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Scott_GT

Did ask back in august, anychance we could get the images back up?

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silentbob1989

Just undertaking this task at the moment. Cheers for the mention of the hole in the lever thing cuz theres no way u can secure the clip things to the door pin rods (They go up inside the door and u are unable to tighten the screws) plus i think putting the rod through the hole makes it much more sturdy. Nice one Steve O.

PS what bout gettin thise picks up I'm sure people would appreciate it, i would take some photos but havn't got a camera handy and I'm sure u know what you are doing. :smirk::thumbsup:

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Scott_GT

Did mine today, Spent most the day doing it. Hardest part was the link rod's. When i finalu found the holes on the BACK of the white clip, I managed to use my garden gate lock to bend the rod's, Also i found it not that stable and could fall out of the white clips, so i cable tied round the link rod and the rod for the door handle, not to tight other wise one wont funtion, probally 1cm round. I didnt drill the doors iver i just ran everything behind the doorcard then wrapped in black electrical tape and back behind the carpets. Really good mod and worth the hassle.

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shoki

is it just me or are the pictures not showing?, does anyone know if there is one like this for the mk5? 6n2?

Edited by shoki

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888lewis888

nope i cant see the pics either, please could you put them back up ??????

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cheys03

Did mine last weekend.

Used the Maplin kit - 4 door £25.

Basic process:

Remove door cards

Remove crappy plastic sheet (as suggested I took the time to renew this with better stuff!)

Figure out where to place solanoids (test with the window up and down!!)

Measure up rods

Bend rods

Fit solanoids

Attach rod (removed the exterior door handle to give a small window to work through to the locking pin)

Test with temporary messy cabling

Tidy up cabling (used Maplins spiral plastic cable tidy things - also great reinforcement for the wires from behind dash (next to fresh air vents) to behind door cards - no drilling!

Test again

Test again

Test again

Replace door plastic sheet, door card and door handles etc.

I wired the 12v supply to the factory-fitted alarm/immobiliser supply. (have reverse-engineered the pin-out and found 2 relays suitable for use for remote-locking :-D )

Pic of where I put the solanoids (excuse the less than neat look - the passenger side I did second and it looks much better!)

Img_2450.jpg

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cheys03

Pics of where I tucked the wires (no drilling req.):

IMG_0225.jpg

IMG_0223.jpg

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cheys03

Just to add - the Maplins kit I bought has begun to fail at just over 12 months old. The door solanoids have begun to malfunction. I'm looking for a better quality kit next.

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robertvdub

iv got 2 remote central locking kits as i lost 1 bought another then found it lol I'm fitting it on a mk3 polo coupe, the instructions make no sense at all and the pics on the faq on here dont work. They both have a fuction to flash the lights if you loose your car at night and a function to beep the horn in the day.

The first kit i bought is for a 4 door car 2 actuators have a blue wire, a green wire, a brown wire, a white wire and a black wire.

The other two actuators just have a green wire and a blue wire which is all part of 1 loom that also has a red wire and a black wire going into the brain. There is also another loom that has a pink wire, 2 brown wires, and a blue wire going into the brain.

The second kit just has 2 actuators with a green wire and a blue wire which doesnt have anything to plug into so I'm not sure what to do with them? A loom with a pink wire, a black wire, a red wire with a 15amp fuse, a blue wire with a 10 amp fuse, a yellow and black wire, a white and black wire with a 10 amp fuse, a orange wire, a yellow wire, a white wire with a 10 amp fuse and a orange wire which all goes into the brain.

Also the white clip you connect the rod to keeps coming off the door latch then i cant get in the door should i just glue it on?

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