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  2. Today
  3. Welcome to the Forum. Sorry - I can't get your video to play. Regards
  4. jameslorenzato

    Tarting up the breadvan

    The bumper has been bashed in
  5. It can be done insitu https://www.clubpolo.co.uk/topic/332235-sick-gearbox-on-6n/?tab=comments#comment-2618693 there instructions in this link, you will loose some oil but if your quick not much
  6. am i right the selector shaft seal can be done in situ ? does all the oil dump out when the seal comes out? what about the bush /housing ...do that too?? need any special tools??
  7. steveo3002

    my 88 breadvan 1300cl

  8. steveo3002

    my 88 breadvan 1300cl

  9. steveo3002

    Tarting up the breadvan

    is that a derby back box lol....shouldnt stick out that far
  10. danobeirne

    Audi pepper pots

    Hey man, nice looking set there, not to mention the really clean 9n, just wondering if anything on the wheels has to be taken care of or repaired?
  11. dvderlm

    Tarting up the breadvan

    Some back to black on all the grey plastic will do it a favour.
  12. steveo3002

    Tarting up the breadvan

    once the body work is ruined very few people will want to buy it if you decide to move on as above you see it weekly , some one buys some random wheels that wont fit , but tries anyway by bashing the arches or fitting washes to add "camber" myself - id say loose the roofrack unless you actually use it , theyre played out now , good polish on the paint , replace the cam belt and overhaul the brakes so theyre A1 and go on from there , make it reliable go anywhere car and add a few touches as you go
  13. Yesterday
  14. steveo3002

    Schrick 268 cam set up

    easiest way it compare it to the old cam ...point the 1st lobe upwards and note where the factory keyway is
  15. gofaster100

    mk2 86C Polo windscreen

    Time Left: 1 month and 29 days

    • WANTED
    • USED

    Hi everyone, does anyone have a windscreen for a mk2 polo? can pick up between Liverpool / Manchester / Midlands / Cardiff let me know, cheers

    NO VALUE SPECIFIED

  16. Data from FB does show the posts were seen by a lot of people
  17. I am in the process of rebuilding a 1.3 engine for my mk2 polo, and am about to fit the camshaft and time it up. However I am unsure which of the two key ways on the cam the pulley is supposed to lock into to allow the timing marks to be correct. Can anyone shed some light on this for me? Thanks, Jordan
  18. Does this help https://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/rdw/polo+derby+vento-ind/po/1990-9/1/103-2010/
  19. Can anyone tell me where this goes or have a pic? It's missing at the mo. Cheers
  20. kiran_182

    Tarting up the breadvan

    Really dont, every few weeks this exact conversation takes place Keep it clean and oem+ do things that can be undone if needed, always always make the car better than when you got it
  21. steveo3002

    Tarting up the breadvan

    please dont smash the arches trying to fit some ebay special wheels
  22. kiran_182

    Tarting up the breadvan

    A pair of tarts in the back is a good idea But really clean and correct the paint and plastics, lower it on and 60/40 kit and alloys. You cant go to wide on the rear 5.5j i think maybe 6
  23. Time Left: 1 month and 28 days

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    Genuine VW caddy pickup 1.9D Manual gearbox MOT until January 2020 Mileage is 105,575 miles but will rise slightly as I'm using this as a daily driver. V5 with a few MOT's present. All history available online. 2 x Keys. This is a very reliable truck (bought from Essex and did not skip a beat down the motorway or back road) The only thing that didn't survive was the after market cassette player so currently has no ICE. Handles like a little go cart!! it is great fun to drive. Doesn't smoke, starts first time every time (once the coil has warmed up) New Tonneau cover fitted. Truck is lowered on springs (great for fast cornering) 15" alloys fitted (not very DUB) I did put my Polo GTI alloys on (BBS) but they will be going back onto the polo. The Caddy is 20 years old, and is showing its age in the usual places. Slight surface rust on the arches and above the windscreen. Also a couple of random patches around the body work and doors. This is all superficial. Nice straight bed, but again has superficial rust in places that do not affect the car, but look tatty and could do with a tidy. My plan was to remove the load liner and repair/ repaint the truck. The truck has recently had the rear top mounts fully welded and plastidipped for a good seal. Looks scruffy! but could easily be sorted. Track rod end (Wishbones) replaced on the 15th April (This cost me £260) Tow bar removed with professionally blanked electronics (Cost me £60). The tow bar is included in the sale however. Only selling as I bought this on a whim while my wife was at work as a run about/show car for me and a second car for her. However she really doesn't like it. So its got to go unfortunately. I have wanted one since I was about 15, so I am glad I can say I owned one. This will make a great running project for someone. But unfortunately it wont be me. Ready to drive away with that long MOT. Any questions please ask. Genuine interest only, I will get back to you asap. I am a working dad to 2 (almost 3!!) kids so time is precious. SWAPS SERIOUSLY CONSIDERED Thanks G 07557 509 785

    £1,800.00

    Southampton - GB

  24. cavedweller

    old git needs Polo advice

    Actually that's all a bit relevant. Cars were getting capable of over 100mph by the 1930's and with that also came advances in braking, aerodynamics and suspension etc. Now, granted MOST cars from that era were mass produced fodder for the public to consume, and just like always the public are fobbed off with the bare minimum of what they need to keep the cost down. It's no use selling expensive cars if nobody buys them but you CAN make a "reasonable" vehicle on the cheap and sell it to the masses and make a fortune. Look at the brakes on a high performance 1930's vehicle and you'd see that not a lot has changed. The physics of stopping something is scientific= you apply braking as best you can with the technology you've got, and by the 1930's cars were pretty much sorted out. Now I do admit that there has been advances in certain materials over the years since the 1930's and the actual substance that brake pads are made out of is certainly better nowadays, but that doesn't mean anything much in reality. I've driven 1930's technology and if you're an idiot then yes you will die. But for the sake of argument if you know what's what and understand what you have going on then you can be about as safe in a 1930's car as a modern one because you know and understand what you're working with. This is what I hate about ABS and power steering, etc. It takes the instinctive "feel" away from the driving experience. These days any nump can put their foot down on pretty much any modern car on a motorway and fling it along at 100mph with one finger on the steering wheel while checking their Facebook on their phone, and a lot of numps do that and it kills people. But if you have to be an accomplished "pilot" of a vehicle to propel it down the road using experience and common sense then you're a better driver. Yes there were certain niggles to be considered with armstrong power steering and drum brakes but if you knew what you were doing you didn't just go out and die, and more importantly you weren't such a danger to other road users. The act of driving a car down the road has become as feeble and as inattentive as sitting in a comfy chair and watching television. and that means that any old nump can and will fling their crappy Mondeo down the road with abandon because the airbags and stuff will save them if they screw up. When cars were more "seat of the pants" you had to be GOOD or you were dead. These days almost everybody is a piss poor driver because they have never had to learn how to handle a vehicle, it's all assumed to be done by fancy pants computery gubbins they don't understand and let's face it very few people actually work on their own vehicles anymore so they don't even have a clue what they're flinging down the road. My hardtail motorcycle still uses drum brakes of about 1960's vintage and I don't crash into things and die because I know and understand what I've got. I'm well acquainted with the abilities and limitations of my bike and because of that I get along just fine in modern traffic, but I can't count how many times a day I'm nearly killed to death by numps in modern cars who just aren't paying attention. Yes I will concede that certain technology has made the ACT of driving easier, but I still maintain that it's been detrimental to the whole driving experience for us all. And now that the current mania is for people to have a 200mph Range Rover clone just to nip down to the shops it's the worst driving environment I've ever been in since I started driving way back in the 1970's. The simple fact is that when cars were shit, people were better drivers, but in the modern traffic world you have to adapt to the fact that the roads are full of shit drivers in modern crap cars. I'd still rather drive a 1960's car as a daily hack than anything, but I can't afford the "vintage" cost of running one so I have to do what I can with what I can get, and a 2000 Polo is about as basic as you can get away with these days on a budget. But it still has a bloody airbag light on just because I disconnected the battery to change the starter.
  25. Last week
  26. sleag40

    Vauxhall Cavalier

    Got a bit carried away today, so theres bugger all pictures. A piece was made to go at the back of the outer wheel tub. Then using the outer lip of a spare repair panel and more sheet steel, the inner arch lip was recreated to fit nicely with my outer repair panel halves. It took a lot of time to make it all fit (outer panels off and on many times) but finally I'm at the stage where the outer panels can be attached permanently. 🙂
  27. Hi Everyone! Hope someone on here can help.... I've had this high pitch humming/whistling noise coming from my engine. It happens when I accelerate at a certain point usually heard in the first 3 gears. (noise still is heard when pressing the clutch in) it is also heavily noticeable after switching off the engine as seen in the video. I hope someone knows the issue, sometimes it's barely noticeable, sometimes louder and sometimes does happen at all, so I'm at a loose end with this one! Please see the following video of the noise : (Video has a few different clips, might need to turn the volume up to hear the noise, hard job to do when driving!) www.youtube.com/watch?v=RjG7Nr33Ymc Car: VW Polo '06 1.2 Litre Cheers, Luke
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