Jump to content

All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Yesterday
  2. Ashraff

    VW polo 1.4 16v open air please read

    Is this still for sale
  3. i had my engine rebuilt last year and some goon made a right mess putting it back in.it will not run properly and runs like a turd. it will not time up and i’m trying to time it up with the blue temp sender unplugged but nothing happens like it’s supposed to.does anyone have any idea what the problem could be.ive spent well over 6 months on this spent lots of money replacing sensors rewiring things and still no difference if anyone can help i will be very greatful thank you as always matt
  4. Last week
  5. dvderlm

    idle jet holders

    Rebalanced. Number 1 cylinder was a bit less vacuum than 2,3 and 4. Gave barrel 2 some idle bypass. Much better idle far smoother and no 18:1. Can reduce idle speed a bit but it then idles a little richer. Not yet sure why. Less air around throttle plate versus fuel via idle mixture hole screw? For the middle and top end with ethanol upped max advance to 32 on the 5 static which gives 37 BTDC max. Not yet upped the "centrifugal" applied from 3500rpm.
  6. Willysmiles

    Willysmiles build thread

    Cheers buddy, I’ll upload some more pictures when I sort the brackets out
  7. Jim1500

    Willysmiles build thread

    That looks well smart!
  8. dvderlm

    idle rpm

    Is it better to idle at 1050 rpm with 15:1 AFR or 950rpm with 14.2:1 AFR ?
  9. Eviljohn

    Breadvan engine leak

    Okay cool. I'll try again to find the proper seal. Someone else has suggested searching for a set of gaskets so will try that. Good to know i can knock one up if need be though. Gunk it is. Got a fair amount of the crud off already. Need to get in the nooks. Thanks dude.
  10. dvderlm

    Breadvan engine leak

    Any degreaser will do. I've used Gunk before. Brake cleaner on the other hand is a bit aggressive.
  11. dvderlm

    Breadvan engine leak

    Yes, gasket paper + hylomar will do the job. The o-ring around the dizzy's nose is also a leak suspect.
  12. Eviljohn

    Breadvan engine leak

    Okay. I looked on 7zap. So long as i have the correct info, i think i need another seal for the actual mating faces between the dizzy and the engine. Checked out the part number but they all say not available. I do have some gasket paper that i got for another job. Would that, along with some blue hylomar be okay to use if i can't find the seal i need?
  13. Wow I’ve definitely give your insta a follow and I’ll be looking forward to seeing the progress I hope everything goes smoothly
  14. Eviljohn

    Breadvan engine leak

    Good to know that it's not a big job. With my track record, i seem to be the guy that creates more jobs when i try to do one job. I notice you said "seals". Should i be replacing more than one? I have one O ring on the way but that's all i have as far as seals go. I do need to clean a little oil out of the dizzy. I have a can of Gunk or the Auto Glym machinery degreaser. Is either suitable for that job in very small doses? I'm running electronic ignition so don't have points to fudge up.
  15. Willysmiles

    Willysmiles build thread

    40mm aluminium radiator fitted with 12” fan. Surprising amount of room between the manifold and fan. I’m not happy with any of the mounting brackets yet so I will remake them all much neater.
  16. Hi, does anyone have any advice please. I’ve bought a 6n2 and the radio is saying wait 1 hour. I’ve left it on for almost 2 hours and nothing changes. I have the code but can’t enter it because of this message. Any help would be much appreciated
  17. c.w.pritchard

    Breadvan engine leak

    Just a quick reply to your earlier question. Sorry for delay I’ve been away. Yes, the Haynes was exactly what I did I marked the distributor casing and the engine and withdrew body carefully not to alter setting. Changed seals with care and made sure relocated the distributor in exactly the same place. Not as difficult as I thought. Didn’t get and pictures as it was done in a bit of a rush.
  18. Guest

    The Bike Carb Setup Thread

    How many turns have you done on the carbs?
  19. I've seen a quite recent post on converting a solex 31 to a weber carb for a 1.3 breadvan. My breadvan has the 1.0 block and a leaking flange between the carb and inlet manifold. The part number is 052 129 765 B , doesn't get sold anymore and doesn't have the same fit as the flange ending with A that the 1.3 engine has (to my knowledge). I wasn't able to find any weber conversion kits for the solex 31 and a flange that would fit the inlet manifold. Has anybody seen some carb conversion which fits a flange that can replace the 052 129 765 B ? I fear converting the inlet manifold with my rookie skills.
  20. Phil H

    ABS Pump

    Could be indeed. They're a nice bunch and have a great reputation locally so I am putting it down to an unfortunate, but luckily no serious outcome, mistake. I think it is fair to let them know for anyone else's car they do the same thing to. I've seen the tool also on YouTube and may make the investment. We have 2 Polos, a Fox and an AudiA4 and with the state of the roads around here wheel bearings don;t seem to last long, nor the tyres come to that. I used Stevens n Chelmsford for the 'new hub and housing' and for me they have been brilliant over the last few years. Bought a lovely subframe for my '96 Polo a while back and was really pleased with it. £25.00 delivered - how could you complain? Enjoy the weather Phil
  21. Pete1

    ABS Pump

    I expect what happened here is that your garage who replaced the wheel bearing/hub didn't use the appropriate Gen2 tooling, but just pressed it in by the hub surface. This is like (exactly like, cos it is) trying to press a bearing into place by pushing only on the inner. Bearing damage and/or failing to get the outer fully into place are the likely consequences. Seems you have experienced the latter. The proper tooling has to get in behind the hub in order to push on the outer of the bearing to get it fully in place. See here for example: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YEHRcL06fhA
  22. nige8021

    ABS Pump

    Wow I think you were lucky that what was an annoying fault light probably saved you and passengers from a nasty accident, I've not taken one of those newer joints apart so I can't comment on the knurling you refer to, but I would certainly be having a word with your garage that changed it
  23. Phil H

    ABS Pump

    A quick update and also thank you for your helpful comments. Took the hub off this morning, had to bin the track rod end in the end. It was very quickly clear what the problem was. The bearing was making ts way out of the casting, so the sensor was not anywhere near enough to the ring to do any measuring! I just put the 'new hub' on and have the old one still on the bench. I was really surprised as eventually I suppose the wheel would have cone off the car - assuming the drive shaft would part at the CV joint! A quick question. Is it the nurling on the hub side of the bearing that locks it into the casting? If so, would I be right thinking that when the new hub was fitted a year ago this did not click in? Anyway - all working and now need to get the tracking done of course! Kind regards Phil
  24. Eviljohn

    Breadvan engine leak

    I had gripper gloves on to try and keep the degreaser off my fingies. Didn't woek but i did just give those studs a little twist wity my fingers and they seemed fine. The gaskets i have, and all the others i have seen don't have any metal studs. Got the metal strips back to looking like metal, most of the surface rust off the cam cover, very thin bead of Hylomar blue, left to cure and refitted. Got them all finger tight and then 1/4 turn more with socket. Felt like they were just seated if you know what i mean, but could still be tightened a little more if needed. Will leave overnight and fire up tomorrow to check for signs of leakage. Have to wait for dizzy seal to arrive to do that one. Also, weather is grim today and i got no garage/shelter. Had to make one with a tarpaulin and some rope then sat in my shed to clean the cam cover.
  25. dvderlm

    Breadvan engine leak

    Yes. No tool needed. Finger tight on those two at the bottom, so the unthreaded saddle part cannot go in any further. I've only come across Elring gaskets with the metal studs. EAN 4041248031797 eg https://www.autopartspro.co.uk/elring-988287 They just stop you compressing too much and splitting the cork. Perhaps they also prevent any rotation/distortion of cork and metal near the thread/bolt? My cover had some slight indents matching the metal studs, but I don't know whether it is made like that or from years of use. (Febi Bilstein appear to have studs too. eg https://www.autopartspro.co.uk/febi-bilstein-1874899 )
  26. Yeti

    Polo Variant 6kv Ibiza 6k switch mounting

    I may have one from a 9k Caddy with electric mirrors and windows. I'll see what I can find.
  27. Eviljohn

    Breadvan engine leak

    Thanks dude. I've not seen a gasket for this polo that had the metal studs before. I have two new spares, and both are straight up cork. I've offered them up to the cam cover and both are correct size and holes line up spot on. Planning on using just a small amount of Hylomar Blue just to be sure. By studs, do you mean the two threaded bits sticking out of the head, either end at the bottom of where the cam cover sits? All others are bolts that go through the cam cover except these two. Is there a sensible way to tighten these without mashing the threads? I don't want to go at them with molegrips or pliers and cause more/bigger problems.
  1. Load more activity
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. Terms of Use Privacy Policy Guidelines