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  1. Today
  2. steveo3002

    Tarting up the breadvan

    please dont smash the arches trying to fit some ebay special wheels
  3. kiran_182

    Tarting up the breadvan

    A pair of tarts in the back is a good idea But really clean and correct the paint and plastics, lower it on and 60/40 kit and alloys. You cant go to wide on the rear 5.5j i think maybe 6
  4. Time Left: 1 month and 29 days

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    Genuine VW caddy pickup 1.9D Manual gearbox MOT until January 2020 Mileage is 105,575 miles but will rise slightly as I'm using this as a daily driver. V5 with a few MOT's present. All history available online. 2 x Keys. This is a very reliable truck (bought from Essex and did not skip a beat down the motorway or back road) The only thing that didn't survive was the after market cassette player so currently has no ICE. Handles like a little go cart!! it is great fun to drive. Doesn't smoke, starts first time every time (once the coil has warmed up) New Tonneau cover fitted. Truck is lowered on springs (great for fast cornering) 15" alloys fitted (not very DUB) I did put my Polo GTI alloys on (BBS) but they will be going back onto the polo. The Caddy is 20 years old, and is showing its age in the usual places. Slight surface rust on the arches and above the windscreen. Also a couple of random patches around the body work and doors. This is all superficial. Nice straight bed, but again has superficial rust in places that do not affect the car, but look tatty and could do with a tidy. My plan was to remove the load liner and repair/ repaint the truck. The truck has recently had the rear top mounts fully welded and plastidipped for a good seal. Looks scruffy! but could easily be sorted. Track rod end (Wishbones) replaced on the 15th April (This cost me £260) Tow bar removed with professionally blanked electronics (Cost me £60). The tow bar is included in the sale however. Only selling as I bought this on a whim while my wife was at work as a run about/show car for me and a second car for her. However she really doesn't like it. So its got to go unfortunately. I have wanted one since I was about 15, so I am glad I can say I owned one. This will make a great running project for someone. But unfortunately it wont be me. Ready to drive away with that long MOT. Any questions please ask. Genuine interest only, I will get back to you asap. I am a working dad to 2 (almost 3!!) kids so time is precious. SWAPS SERIOUSLY CONSIDERED Thanks G 07557 509 785

    £1,800.00

    Southampton - GB

  5. cavedweller

    old git needs Polo advice

    Actually that's all a bit relevant. Cars were getting capable of over 100mph by the 1930's and with that also came advances in braking, aerodynamics and suspension etc. Now, granted MOST cars from that era were mass produced fodder for the public to consume, and just like always the public are fobbed off with the bare minimum of what they need to keep the cost down. It's no use selling expensive cars if nobody buys them but you CAN make a "reasonable" vehicle on the cheap and sell it to the masses and make a fortune. Look at the brakes on a high performance 1930's vehicle and you'd see that not a lot has changed. The physics of stopping something is scientific= you apply braking as best you can with the technology you've got, and by the 1930's cars were pretty much sorted out. Now I do admit that there has been advances in certain materials over the years since the 1930's and the actual substance that brake pads are made out of is certainly better nowadays, but that doesn't mean anything much in reality. I've driven 1930's technology and if you're an idiot then yes you will die. But for the sake of argument if you know what's what and understand what you have going on then you can be about as safe in a 1930's car as a modern one because you know and understand what you're working with. This is what I hate about ABS and power steering, etc. It takes the instinctive "feel" away from the driving experience. These days any nump can put their foot down on pretty much any modern car on a motorway and fling it along at 100mph with one finger on the steering wheel while checking their Facebook on their phone, and a lot of numps do that and it kills people. But if you have to be an accomplished "pilot" of a vehicle to propel it down the road using experience and common sense then you're a better driver. Yes there were certain niggles to be considered with armstrong power steering and drum brakes but if you knew what you were doing you didn't just go out and die, and more importantly you weren't such a danger to other road users. The act of driving a car down the road has become as feeble and as inattentive as sitting in a comfy chair and watching television. and that means that any old nump can and will fling their crappy Mondeo down the road with abandon because the airbags and stuff will save them if they screw up. When cars were more "seat of the pants" you had to be GOOD or you were dead. These days almost everybody is a piss poor driver because they have never had to learn how to handle a vehicle, it's all assumed to be done by fancy pants computery gubbins they don't understand and let's face it very few people actually work on their own vehicles anymore so they don't even have a clue what they're flinging down the road. My hardtail motorcycle still uses drum brakes of about 1960's vintage and I don't crash into things and die because I know and understand what I've got. I'm well acquainted with the abilities and limitations of my bike and because of that I get along just fine in modern traffic, but I can't count how many times a day I'm nearly killed to death by numps in modern cars who just aren't paying attention. Yes I will concede that certain technology has made the ACT of driving easier, but I still maintain that it's been detrimental to the whole driving experience for us all. And now that the current mania is for people to have a 200mph Range Rover clone just to nip down to the shops it's the worst driving environment I've ever been in since I started driving way back in the 1970's. The simple fact is that when cars were shit, people were better drivers, but in the modern traffic world you have to adapt to the fact that the roads are full of shit drivers in modern crap cars. I'd still rather drive a 1960's car as a daily hack than anything, but I can't afford the "vintage" cost of running one so I have to do what I can with what I can get, and a 2000 Polo is about as basic as you can get away with these days on a budget. But it still has a bloody airbag light on just because I disconnected the battery to change the starter.
  6. Yesterday
  7. sleag40

    Vauxhall Cavalier

    Got a bit carried away today, so theres bugger all pictures. A piece was made to go at the back of the outer wheel tub. Then using the outer lip of a spare repair panel and more sheet steel, the inner arch lip was recreated to fit nicely with my outer repair panel halves. It took a lot of time to make it all fit (outer panels off and on many times) but finally I'm at the stage where the outer panels can be attached permanently. 🙂
  8. Hi Everyone! Hope someone on here can help.... I've had this high pitch humming/whistling noise coming from my engine. It happens when I accelerate at a certain point usually heard in the first 3 gears. (noise still is heard when pressing the clutch in) it is also heavily noticeable after switching off the engine as seen in the video. I hope someone knows the issue, sometimes it's barely noticeable, sometimes louder and sometimes does happen at all, so I'm at a loose end with this one! Please see the following video of the noise : (Video has a few different clips, might need to turn the volume up to hear the noise, hard job to do when driving!) www.youtube.com/watch?v=RjG7Nr33Ymc Car: VW Polo '06 1.2 Litre Cheers, Luke
  9. jameslorenzato

    Tarting up the breadvan

    Just brought a Polo Breadvan as a nice easy project. Drove her back from Bournemouth with a grin on my face all the way. interested to hear suggestions i just know i need to clean her up a bit
  10. Thx everyone for the replies. Taken a while to sort as the car is my daughters and she lives away. Anyway it's cured. But don't know how. There werent any fuses on top of the battery. Just a large covered terminal connector. So I went round and checked all connectors for frayed wires etc and also checked fuse for fan control unit in cabin. The only thing I can think is by checking connectors etc pushed them home /made a better connection. Anyway I've told her to keep an eye on it! Thanks again
  11. Last week
  12. feeblington

    Horn issues

    Wicked. Then job done. Cheers for your assitance. 😁
  13. cavedweller

    old git needs Polo advice

    Yeah I'm not really happy with the tyres that came on the car, Kormoran (no idea) 155/70-13. When I got the car I thought the ride was a bit squishy so I went and inflated the tyres to 39psi and it greatly improved the ride. Later I even went to 42psi. I'm looking to fit some 14's on the car because I'd like a bit more ground clearance but I'll use these 13's up first. MOT isn't for almost a year so I've got time to look. I know I'm probably technically running "too much" air in the tyres but the difference in the handling is worth it. It was the same with my Triumph GT6. If you ran tyres strictly by the book the handling felt wishy-washy but if you inflated the tyres to about 40psi it greatly improved things, and on a car with THAT suspension anything you could do to make it better was good.
  14. nige8021

    Horn issues

    As long as it has a horn that can be operated by the driver in a normal seated position. that's the only requirement
  15. Facebook 100% throttle posts in order to force people to pay for promotion. It happens all the time with my friends business posts. Having said that though, I did see a handful of posts in the run up which reminded me about it, hence why I brought the E36 along. It was a disappointing turnout though. The flipsife to social media being accessible is it allows everyone an opinion, but when it actually comes down to pulling through and showing up to an event, they just don't bother. It's hard work getting anyone to actually do anything these days. At a club rolling road day, 5 cars ran and only two of them were Polo's? At the end of the day it doesn't matter how much you spam the posts, it's hard work forcing anyone to come to something. Thanks for the photos though, Nige. I'll be stealing those. ✌️
  16. cavedweller

    Who stole my manifold?

    Well bugger. Got the starter changed without needing to disconnect any wires at all but I did disconnect the negative battery terminal at the time an now that everything's fitted and working again the airbag light is on. Is this a common thing after disconnecting the battery? Everything else seems perfectly normal. Runs fine.
  17. cavedweller

    oil/air seperator- can I ditch it?

    I cleaned the oil/air thingy by pouring a few kettles of boiled water through it and that released a bunch of yellowy gunk so I just refitted it. Yes I've already had dealings with that breather pipe off the rocker cover. If you leave the hose off everything looks deceptively fine at idle but then when you drive around it spews oil everywhere, so for the time being I've got a bodged pipe fitted that connects from the breather pipe on the rocker cover, across the top of the engine to the crankcase vent at the back, with a few little holes drilled in the horizontal bit along the top of the pipe. Seems to work fine. Any oil that gets spewed from the rocker cover gets redirected back down the crankcase vent and any fumes from anywhere between the two points get vented to the winds beneath the bonnet as I drive. So far it's working fine. No oil spew from anywhere like the dipstick and the engine seems to be happy with it. It's simple but it seems to work.
  18. dvderlm

    oil/air seperator- can I ditch it?

    One of the rocker cover pipes is In only according to this https://uk-polos.net/viewtopic.php?t=57765
  19. dvderlm

    oil/air seperator- can I ditch it?

    Top and bottom of the engine have different pressure sources. Top is the oil pump. Bottom is not really oil pump -it's sucking (except conrod journals and any crank splash) but piston blow-by. It is intake vacuum that sucks on that breather for bottom of engine.. You could probably clean it with solvent or diesel. A catch can is a better idea than putting oily mist on the car's underside, driveway or the road surface. You can have a go at blanking it, but it might come out of the dipstick. Creating a vacuum below the cylinders helps them fall and rise because there a fewer air molecules to be pushed back and forth in the space above the sump as 1and 4 alternate with 2 and 3. Whether this makes sufficient difference versus blow-by fumes carrying oily mess into combustion depends on how well your piston rings still seal and how fast the pistons move.
  20. sleag40

    Vauxhall Cavalier

    This morning was all about fixing the hole that allowed the contents of the boot to be viewed through the wheel arch. Chopping out the poxy bits Piece let in to boot floor then zinc primed Another piece then made, and let in to the wheel tub to complete the repair. Once I've replaced the seam sealer that was dug out, it should be barely noticeable.
  21. So I've just taken the oil/air seperator off and it looks like you can't open it for cleaning. Looks like a sealed plastic unit. Since I've done away with the standard airbox and plugged off the random hoses couldn't I just make a blanking off plate to bolt on where the oil/air seperator used to go? I figure it's not a closed oil system of some kind. Seems to me if I blocked it off with a plate the engine crankcase vapours could still breathe as needed by way of the rocker cover vent hose, which I'd probably just route in a convoluted way to the underside of the car somewhere. Would this work?
  22. cavedweller

    Who stole my manifold?

    Yeah that's all pretty much as I suspected. I'll try removing the manifold without disconnecting too many wires and I'll give the sensor a clean. Having already thrown away the airbox gubbins and plugged off the relevant hoses the car's been running great on a motorcycle pod filter. I still want bigger wheels. First gear is practically useless unless I've got a load on, and I often start out in second and just go straight to fourth for around town. This is an exceptionally light car due to the ally engine and I've removed much of the interior so I can use it like a small van but I think the monster 50hp engine could handle bigger wheels for more ground clearance. It's a great little car with a lot of room inside but it seems small by today's standards where everybody has to have a 200mph Range Rover clone.
  23. dvderlm

    old git needs Polo advice

    "anything that robs it of power" Check tyre pressures, and switch to low rolling resistance (might be noisier) mytyres.co.uk lets you search by label roll. Hankook kinergy and Goodyear efficientgrip came out well for my tyre sizes. (continental ecocontact and Michelin are overpriced)
  24. dvderlm

    old git needs Polo advice

    Bromyard too. Pierburg 2e2 and 2e3 are things of joy. But I could not get a mini-kat RETRO-fitted to my 2e3 equipped GT, to reduce German road tax. And the cold idle speed is waaay too high and too long in duration.
  25. Yeti

    old git needs Polo advice

    I'd disagree, I'd say a 2e.. Pierberg is pretty much as near to a perfect carb as you'll ever find, the catch there is they're that complex, no one maintains them and blames them when they break.
  26. dvderlm

    old git needs Polo advice

    Sorry, but I have to say that is rubbish. I'm sure you would not claim that brakes or crash cell or suspension or aerodynamics are no better than the olden days. I know a lot about carbs now. I have tuned Pierburg, Weber twin choke and Dellortos. I've talked with bike carb and SU and Reece Fish enthusiasts. I've also read the Megasquirt source code from bowling and grippo and discussed with former engineers at PiShurlok and Ricardo. Carburettors do not have barometric correction (altitude and weather) temperature correction cold start optimal correction fuel octane or ethanol content correction efficiency feedback self learning inter cylinder optimisation At steady state idle or cruise you can get carb and injection to emit the same gases, but the proportion of gas that is not co2 and the unburnt fuel will be higher for a carb overall because there are at best 4 curves that modulate the mixture based on pressure differences and air speed. When you close the throttle on a carb it temporarily enriches. I can see this on a logging AFR gauge. A progressive vac-operated secondary throttle plate reduces the effect somewhat but only on second barrel. An ECU with drive-by-wire throttle can cut fuel supply to minimal or none at overrun. And then inert exhaust gas recirculation and a catalytic convertor can do its trick to catch nitrogen and use unburnt hydrocarbons. A well maintained 999cc Polo is a fine thing. Save weight any way that does not compromise safety or comfort. All carbs are compromise, never perfect.
  27. feeblington

    Horn issues

    Thanks again. Well....to be honest im kinda fed up fixing this thing. Will it fail and mot if i still have a horn..its just on a switch ive cabl3 tied to the indicater stalk 😊
  28. I'd say that it very much would be in the club's interest to pay to promote the events, especially the social at the very least. It may not bring in any money from the actual event, but as a promotional tool for the club? The more popular the event, the more potential paying members you get. Red bull don't earn anything from the big ass events they put on either, but they pay large sums to get people flying planes through hoops and shit because they know the importance of getting the brand out there. Have you looked into the cost of promoting it on other SM sites? Maybe insta would be more cost effective than FB? Again, the RR being featured on a forum that very few people log into is pretty much irrelevant as far as advertising the event goes. I can't comment on how visible the event was on fb as I'm not on there, but others I've talked to about it said they barely saw anything about it on there.
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