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  1. Today
  2. lukke

    Polos out of the shed

    You kno. And the thing you want is buried. I find things I forgot I had
  3. Jim1500

    Polos out of the shed

    Class! A shed that big would be great, only thing is I say any of us would have it filled within no time lol
  4. Check VW heritage, they list some rubbers for MK2s but I can't remember exactly what they have.
  5. Yesterday
  6. Does anyone the situation with window rubbers all the window are out so. Can you get new fresh rubbers. Or old ones the way
  7. lukke

    Polos out of the shed

    So do I. Used to a council garage hahah
  8. lukke

    Polos out of the shed

    So.... been a while the car been blasted and striped of all rust n primer old filler Primed ready for a few repairs it unveild bit of welding need front window water hole drip thing ( bottom right hand corner ) And rear window bottom left hand corner
  9. lukke

    Polos out of the shed

    It's still there next to the Fridge ...
  10. Without any trumpets inside enlarged Dergo filters and the above custom 31mm chokes I recorded +0.39psi manifold pressure from ram tuning at 13.0:1AFR. Don't think I've seen much over +0.3psi with smooth 30mm chokes and 45mm long trumpets. I found a previous peak +0.34psi at 13.2:1AFR. Think that might have been with 26mm chokes from the log date.
  11. Jim1500

    Mk2 Panels

    Cheers dude, but that's the one I was looking into £50+vat + £36 post over here! They seem to be only place that do it. I'll maybe wait until it's away to get the work done and see what he makes of bodycut I have.
  12. nige8021

    Mk2 Panels

    https://www.carbodypanels4u.co.uk/volkswagen/polo/volkswagen-polo-3-door-hatchback-1981-1990-mk2/battery-tray
  13. It wasn't a nyloc, and looks like it wasn't even a tapered locknut to begin with... Stupid oversight - you live and learn... Yeah I think that description is wrong - would seem strange to use a nyloc when every other nut on the suspension is a tapered locknut. Found two original VW nuts to use either way.
  14. Jim1500

    Mk2 Panels

    Anywhere else do the battery tray repair panels? By the time vat and postage on that it's going to be almost £100!!! I've been searching ebay etc can't find anyone else, even can't find what make the panel is.
  15. Was it a nyloc nut on the ARB end? Please don't reuse those. I can find N0221414 described as nylock at VWheritage. but the 7zap picture looks like it could be tapered thread
  16. Ha! Consider me disappointed! I'll have to get on giving that a lick of paint asap. Either that or just swap for a new sump when I next do the oil (which is pretty soon anyways).
  17. Sorry to disappoint you. Sheet steel at £25 ish. Feld Motorsport sell an alu sump for €240 ish. https://www.feld-motorsport.de/files/CLASSIC-LINE-ANGEBOTSLISTE-PDF.pdf
  18. Torque wrench was reading a tad high - used a digital luggage scale at a measured point on the handle and pulled against the wheel nuts (vice didn't grip the socket head enough. All calibrated now - thanks for the headsup!
  19. Very true - I always try and make sure I have enough space around the wrench when torquing a nut up to hit the click in one smooth movement. When I say the other nut was still at torque I mean it hasn't moved from where I torqued it to. I'll see if I can't set up a test rig to check the wrench - it'll be something to do in the evening if nothing else!
  20. I'm running stock springs (1 coil cut out all round 15-20m low) and stock shocks at the moment on my 84 bready. I like having the travel on the stock springs because my local routes have shite bumps. I just want better damping performance and more progressive shocks for the roll. Has anyone tried these shocks? I would consider getting sportier springs too but its my daily so not that fussed, its already fun right now while feeling chilled to drive, crashy thumps wise. Also just to mention i have a pair of powerflex ARB polly bushings if anyone wants them off me. Cheers
  21. A couple of things about 'checking' the torque of a nut or bolt and torque wrench calibration. The correct torque of a bolt/nut can ONLY be checked whilst it is actually being tightened - It is NOT possible to simply put the torque wrench back on it to 'check' as the initial resistance to turning would prevent an accurate reading - It might even be possible to increase the setting slightly and still get a 'click' out of it without it turning the bolt/nut. A very rough method of checking that your torque wrench is giving something like the correct result is to use a spring balance at a point exactly 12 inches from the centre of the drive square. Set the wrench to a setting in lbs/ft (ft/lbs if you like) , grip the square in the vice and pull on the spring balance - the wrench should 'click' at the appropriate setting. This is NOT a super accurate calibration check, as there are some variables - not least, the accuracy of the spring balance (but you could check that against a known weight). This check is best repeated at two or three settings of the wrench. Regards
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  23. Yeah - re-used the nuts. The other side is still at torque, lord knows what happened here. Ordered a couple new OEM locknuts for peace of mind. Well I thought I trusted it! Its a Draper and had it for yonks. Could probably do with checking that. Isn't the sump made of Alu? I'll fill it in and give it a paint anyways.
  24. Ouch. Original nuts reused on end of ARB? Do you trust your torque wrench? Looks like dent and scrape, but not much material lost. Sump is not leaking at that point, but probably worth reinforcing with filler and painting over to stop rust from outside.
  25. And the clunk was a combination of the ARB wobbling around in the TCA and this..... The counterweight on the OS driveshaft has given my sump a good whack. Is this sump going to need replacing? Hard to tell whether the scuff is a removal of material or a caving of it in... Going to order some new locknuts for the ARB. It was definitely done up to 75Nm - shouldn't have failed so catastrophically. Thank god I caught it!
  26. Well if this isn't the cause I don't know what is.... slightly frightening The 'lock' nut at the end of the ARB had vibrated loose - makes sense that the skating motion would come from a rather variable castor angle...
  27. Right - did some tests (why does driving cars like these so often feel like being a bloody test pilot?) and I think I'm getting closer. The skating steer is only present when the car is accelerating or decelerating sharply - the effect isn't replicated by braking at any speed. When the throttle is lightly blipped (in either direction, i.e. taking the pressure off or putting it on) when moving there is a distinct 'clunk' associated with the steering motion. The 'clunk' noise doesn't appear in any other circumstances and isn't steering related (i.e., doesn't happen just from being at full lock like a dodgy CV joint might). I can reproduce it with really light 'blips' from the throttle so I don't think its coming from weight shifting around. It almost reminds me of when you pedal hard on your bike suddenly and theres a clunk as the freewheel moves a fraction before the pawls engage hard against the hub. I'll jack the front up and check all of the fasteners to see if anything has come loose later - anything else I should check while I'm under there? I checked both front wheels for play after the last round of work and didn't feel any play.
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