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  1. Today
  2. I'd say that it very much would be in the club's interest to pay to promote the events, especially the social at the very least. It may not bring in any money from the actual event, but as a promotional tool for the club? The more popular the event, the more potential paying members you get. Red bull don't earn anything from the big ass events they put on either, but they pay large sums to get people flying planes through hoops and shit because they know the importance of getting the brand out there. Have you looked into the cost of promoting it on other SM sites? Maybe insta would be more cost effective than FB? Again, the RR being featured on a forum that very few people log into is pretty much irrelevant as far as advertising the event goes. I can't comment on how visible the event was on fb as I'm not on there, but others I've talked to about it said they barely saw anything about it on there.
  3. nige8021

    Who stole my manifold?

    The plastic bunch of bannanas inlet does take a bit of getting used too 🤣 The removal of the manifold is pretty much as you have described, the ECU will get upset by having the throttle body disconnected, however you can normally get around the need for diagnostic kit to "Re-learn" the settings by driving around for 20~30 mins using varying throttle loads so the ECU can re-learn the settings. With the manifold off, it might pay to remove the oil/air seperator block on the rear of the block, as over time they can get gunked up leading to excessive oil vapours being ingested and seeping into the cabin. Also on the drivers side end of the manifold is a sensor (inlet air temp & manifold absolute pressure) whip that out (two torx screws) and give it a clean with some spray carb cleaner, don't use a brush or rag on it as it's quite delicate, easier to do it with the manifold off, and have good close inspection of all the vacuum pipes as they are prone to deteriorate and the main vacuum pipe to the servo is known to split There are "O" rings on the manifold, in theory (ideal VW world) you would replace them, https://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/rdw/polo+derby+vento-ind/po/2001-240/1/133-133011/#4 in practice if they look OK refit maybe with a smear of silicone sealant
  4. OK, the starter makes a slight grinding noise just after starting that to me sounds like a bearing or bendix going bad or something so I want to change it before it goes altogether. I know there are people who say you CAN replace the starter without taking the intake manifold off but I want to take it off anyway just so I can have a look at things to see how it all works and fits together. Looking at my monster 999cc engine it looks like somebody has stolen the inlet manifold and replaced it with a piece of weird black plastic, surely somebody's sick idea of a joke. I mean, all inlet manifolds are made of some kind of metal. right? What next? Pistons of wood? Anyway, I'm going to take the intake manifold off when I change the starter and was just wondering if there's any weird quirks I should be aware of. It looks easy enough to me, just remove a few allen bolts and disconnect a couple of wire connectors, but I'm sure there'll be some kind of computery complications involved. Will the ECU go mad if I disconnect the wires to the throttle body etc? Also I expect to find either gaskets or O-rings at the inlets so are these likely to need replacing with new ones or can the old ones generally be used again with caution if they look good? I rather suspect it should all come off easily by the looks of it without even taking the throttle body off and then I can do the starter and have a poke about at the back of the engine to see what's what. Are there any other little jobs that need doing while the manifold and starter are off? Would hate to have to pull it all off again just for something minor later.
  5. cavedweller

    old git needs Polo advice

    Oh yes I too have had to come to terms with electronic ignition finally, but there's a reason. Back in the day when I was a motorcycle courier in London all the electronic ignitions on bikes (and there weren't many back then) were completely shite. They didn't last and cost a fortune to replace. You even had to drop the engine out of a Honda CX500 to do it. Nightmare. So I either used bikes with points ignition or converted my more modern bikes to run points ignition which was easy as most electronic units back then were simply bolt-on affairs that fit where the points on that model used to go. Fast forward a hundred years to now and I'm perfectly happy with the electronic ignition on my bike because it's simple, bulletproof and a spare CDI box only costs me seven quid from China and can be replaced at the side of the road in less than two minutes (never had to though) and everything just works great. If they had been like that in the first place it would have been fine but in the beginning electronic ignition was just terrible so I steadfastly opposed it on my work bikes which had to do hundreds of miles every week in all weathers all the time. Points never let me down, but back then but we didn't have cheap and cheerful Chinese parts like we do now. As for the rest of it, my Polo only has a 999cc engine so anything that robs it of power is no good to me. I know from working on stuff all my life that you CAN get pretty reasonable mileage out of a bigger engine if you try, but an underpowered little engine that's working too hard will still get terrible mileage even if it's a wee little engine. If it's got to struggle along it's just not working efficiently. There's been a lot of waffle over the years since fuel injection became the norm but I can tell you a well tuned carb engine can be as clean running as fuel injection if you stay on top of it and do a bit of tuning and maintenance, but most people don't do their own maintenance these days so a computer assisted fuel injection system that can mostly fend for itself is probably for the best in most cases. It's the primitive nature of this 2000 Polo that drew me to buy it in the first place. Modern cars bore me but there's little actually "modern" about a 2000 Polo and spares are cheaper than bits for my bikes! I hate pretty much all modern cars because I grew up driving cars that had character. In my day a secondhand car could have been anything from the 1940's to the 1970's and cars were wonderful back then. But you'd pay dearly for anything of that vintage now and I can't be bothered to work on them all the time so this Polo fits the bill nicely.
  6. nige8021

    Horn issues

    You might be lucky and get the switched ground to energise a relay, but as it's already high resistance, it's only a matter of time before it completely fails, much better to replace the clockspring https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Polo-6n2-00-02-Steering-wheel-Squib-clock-spring-slip-ring-1H0959653E/223262530130?hash=item33fb7bda52:g:y1kAAOSwH-daKSsd or https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Airbag-Clock-Spring-Squib-Spiral-Cable-For-Volkswagen-Seat-most-models-to-2004-/162961404595
  7. feeblington

    Horn issues

    Hello. So..that worked and as per tour diagnoses. I have high resistance on the ground wire...as youve said im guessig this is clockspring....now the poorman question...i dont wanna fork out for a new clockspring as my airbag light isnt on..and baeicly only effecting the horn..... CAN i put a relay on the end where to horn would normally be? As its reading 12v im hoping it wont need high current to activate and could get away with doing it that way? Sorry my bad explanation So igniion live to relay. New wire from battery to relay. New wire from relay to horn. Ground the horn and run the switched ground to the relay as the switch (technically bqckwards?) Would thst work or would the resistwnce still be too much?
  8. dvderlm

    choke cable broken

    191711503A the knob part number. 1H0711558 and the required clip!
  9. Cheers nige. This is what I was thinking. You only find out about these things when you do them for yourself I suppose. The middle silencer (also new) I can't check easily as the seam is on the top against the bottom of the car - it could be the same for all I know.
  10. steveo3002

    choke cable broken

    and its missing the knob
  11. dvderlm

    choke cable broken

    Found the LHD cable on VW heritage part 161711501C. £59 and up to 12 weeks delivery! https://www.vwheritage.com/161711501c-choke-cold-start-cable-vw-spare (RHD is 861711501h)
  12. Yesterday
  13. sleag40

    Vauxhall Cavalier

    Very little time has been available this week, but I have managed to get a bit done - first up, a piece was fashioned into roughly the shape required to complete the exhaust cutout end of the inner rear valance. This was then stuck in position (will be cleaned up better when my back is not so sore! The bottom of the inner rear quarter is now sporting some shiny new metal where once there was crusty flakes. This bit was a little tricky to get into the right shape, but I'm pretty sure it's right now. (I'll find out soon enough when the lip of the inner wheel arch is completed. If I can keep away from the pub this weekend, I should get a decent amount time on it. 🙂
  14. dvderlm

    choke cable broken

    With a Weber it needs 4 feet of cable. With the dellos about 30 inches. Thanks for the offer. No worries - found one in my box of bits from some Japanese car, with a microswitch. It's got bullet connectors, so I'll have to bodge something to connect to the 2pin socket with red/brown and brown wire (from reading Haynes) What does that connector look like? Never had a choke light as the original Pierburg was autochoke. But there looks to be an LED next to the |/| symbol. One day I might get around to fitting a microswitch to the handbrake. That's not worked since I replaced the fuel tank and brake cables and lever with a fairly chunky Golf item. It's easy to tell if I've left it on. I never partially apply it. It'll just burn the shoes off, then the car will run away down a hill when your mate fetches something from the car and knocks the gear lever into neutral. But that's another story.
  15. nige8021

    Exhaust assembly questions!

    I would leave it for a month and it'll of healed up with corrosion by then
  16. Cool. Is it on a hole or instead of a gasket to the manifold? I'm thinking I might just leave it and see if any carbon blocks it up. It may heal with rust and do that on loads of exhausts - can't think I'm the only one with this issue. I've tried silicone near hot moisture before (on a radiator) and it didn't work - mind you the pressure would have been higher. May check it before the end of summer to see how it's doing - still not decided.
  17. PMA AUTO

    • PMA AUTO
    •   
    • nige8021

    hi buddy 

    im wondering if you could help 

    i have 2002 vw golf 

    the coolant light flashing randomly not everytime 

    i changed overflow botte genuine one new still has it 

    i changed water pump already 

    coolant temp sensor also changed 

    on the overflow bottle i put 2 wire together but it make no difference 

    can you give me some advise what to do in my case 

    thank you for your help 

  18. steveo3002

    choke cable broken

    is it long on a lhd ? ive got a proper vw that operates the dash light , would donate it but suspect its too short
  19. Grr, found out why it is hard to start the engine when cold. Tried adjusting the carb end of the choke cable for tension. DHLA don't have a choke flap to impede flow. They have a mini carb with its own jet feeding two cylinders. Operating the mechanism pulls two tiny valves open to let fuel and air pass. I could see the lever was not moving very far. Here's why. Choke handle in choke handle out It's only moving the cable outer closer. Wondering if I can glue or crimp it? Think it's new cable time.
  20. Last week
  21. RDP

    Mk 2 Coupe S

    Time Left: 1 month and 27 days

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    I have owned this car since 2010 and will be very sad to see it go. I drove it for roughly 3 years as my primary car. In 2013 I garaged it as a temporary situation until I could run it as a second car as a hobby. The temporary situation was not so temporary and it has been in a garage ever since. The car was owned by an old lady for most of its life. She didn't use it much and it was sold to me by her grandson after she passed away. This car has ultra low milage (59001 miles). It starts with no problems and the engine still sounds great. No modifications have been made and everything is original. The cam belt has also been changed since I have owned it. There are two sets of wheels with the car; a set of 5 steels and a set of 4 Hockenheim alloys. There are some scratches and a small dent in the rear right arch but other than that the paintwork is in a really good state. The interior is like new and black/red combo is best I've seen.

    £1,300.00

    Chelmsford, Essex

  22. nige8021

    Horn issues

    Yeah connect the horn up so it has the ignition supply, then ground the other pin and see if it works if it does then your looking for a high resistance on the switched ground wire
  23. feeblington

    Horn issues

    Ahh. Well thats promising. Ill check that now. So just to make sure. Run the ignition live to it. Then ground it and dont use the switched ground cable thst goes back to clockspring.
  24. nige8021

    Horn issues

    That sounds like you have a high resistance somewhere, with the horn plugged in, can you try putting a ground onto the Brown/White wire close by the horn or at the bulkhead White connector I mentioned before and see if that works, if it does then you know the high resistance is in the earth side of the wiring and again first suspect would be the clockspring
  25. feeblington

    Horn issues

    Ok.....i pulled out my multimeter and pulled off airbag. Switch for horn is working. And when i put multimeter where horn should be i get all correct readings.....12v from the ignition. And ground when horn pressed. ...yet when i plug anything into it no dice...im absolutely baffled😪😪😪😑
  26. 15 might be an exaggeration. I did think of that, the heat was mostly applied to the bleeder screw itself. The rest of the caliper seemed to sink the heat quite well and didn’t get all that hot. I thought brakes were designed to work at pretty high temperatures anyway?
  27. Glad that you have been able to remove the bleed nipples. I am a bit concerned as to what heating the calipers for 15 minutes with a blow torch might have done to the seals - They may well be fluid-tight at the moment, but who is to say that they will remain flexible in the future? Regards
  28. Too late! Easy outs broke as soon as they bit, avoid screwfixes ones! I eventually got the bleeders off both brakes by getting the caliper off the car, heating with a blowtorch for like 15 minutes then covering the join in plusgas and then cold, wet paper towel. Then spent about an hour fighting with them in a vice. Both bleeders replaced with new ones for a couple of quid off eBay. The second one was much easier after I worked out the technique! Cheers guys for your help
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