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  1. Today
  2. Jim1500

    Washer Pipe on an 08

    Cheers dude, atm it has a piece of metal pipe that fits well and rubber hose over the top.
  3. I STRONGLY recommend that you have something (pliers?) to hold the screw whilst you cut it - Your post brought back memories from long ago, when I cut a screw whilst holding it - finished up with two stitches in my finger! Regards
  4. Yeti

    Washer Pipe on an 08

    Pretty common on all vag cars. The "proper" method seems to be to bodge a coupler into it. http://www.vwpolo.net/corrugated_tube_repairing-764.html Assuming its the back one, I'd guess if you bought a new hose, it would come as a single piece with about a mile of hose on that would need drawing through the car. The only way I can think of doing this would be to pull a decent bit of cord through as you pull the old hose out, then use it to draw the new one in. My worry would be it getting caught on a random clip somewhere.
  5. Yesterday
  6. Is this any use? http://www.webcon.co.uk/shopexd.asp?id=8907
  7. Screw a correct sized nut on before hacksawing, then unscrew once shortened and the nut will tidy the thread up. Scrape rough end on a brick wall. Sorted.
  8. Corrigated washer pipe has split on 2008 VW Fox (assuming Polo has same pipe) It's had a semi permanent fix done but just wondering if anyone else has had this or any good ways to fix. Cheers 😀
  9. new shorter bolts will be pennys at a fasterner shop if you dont have the tools to cut yours
  10. clinning

    Help with Cold Air Intake part

    Nice one. PM me a price with delivery mate 👍
  11. kiran_182

    Help with Cold Air Intake part

    Think i got a a spare one of those
  12. nige8021

    1.4 TDI/AMF Part Number Needed

    First Welcome to the forum. Looks like #20 on this ? https://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/rdw/polo+derby+vento-ind/po/2004-253/1/103-103065/
  13. steveo3002

    Help with Cold Air Intake part

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Volkswagen-Air-Hose-NOS-VW-Polo-Derby-Vento-Ind-867129647A/192876874649?epid=4014019426&hash=item2ce85b8b99:g:ZGoAAOSwBCdcodbV cheapest one i can see
  14. clinning

    Help with Cold Air Intake part

    theres a block on my work comp for ebay... but thanks, will check on me phone later. will i be able to just google that then yeah?
  15. steveo3002

    Help with Cold Air Intake part

    the ebay auction you took the picture has the part number on it
  16. I think I've found one problem. The allen head screws that come with the kit are about 2mm too long, if my caliper's depth gauge is correct. I thought I could feel them bottoming out, and I noticed it visually on the new carb flange. Gonna try and cut them down (all I have is a hack saw at this time so that's fun).
  17. clinning

    Breaking mk2f coupe red

    Do you have a drivers side interior door handle surround, and parcel shelf straps pls? Cheers
  18. i am back in the polo crew after many years!!!... just acquired a red mk2f 1.3 NZ. so now on the hunt for missing parts. and any help with various things. to kick it off Im after the part circled below can anyone point me in the right direction? part number would be great. or a link to something online with ref to part numbers? And also i am after a drivers side interior handle surround? Also, there is a small crack in the intake manifold gasket, and an oil leak possibly from the sump. getting it on the ramp this week to confirm. these jobs pretty straight forward, but any tips would be great. that is enough from me for now, any good websites ive missed from my time away for parts/guides etc would love to hear from yous. Cheers, Marc
  19. Hello, Could anyone possibly provide a part number for the rubber grommet that is on the lower left underside of the engine cover (1.4 TDI/AMF) if you are standing in front of the vehicle? If the engine cover is flipped on its back, the grommet would then be on the lower right side. I hope this makes sense 😉. This grommets plugs into the plastic ball seat for securing the engine cover to the engine. Unfortunately, my grommet is too worn to grab a part number and I cannot find this item on ETKA. This grommet is also a different size/part number than the other two grommets on the cover. The red arrow in the photo highlights what is needed. Thanks for your help.
  20. zob

    Breaking mk2f coupe red

    Ahh is that the difference? Fair enough!
  21. zob

    Project Breadvan GT

    Its a classic problem with these boxes - everyone seems to go through it at some point! If you can live with the drops of gear oil on your drive/the street then you can live with it for ages - it won't loose oil very fast. I'd be more concerned that the box was running so low on oil for potentially a very long time as once the damage is done it can't be un-done by refilling the sump unfortunately. However for the seal change its a fiddle but nothing major - get hold of an OEM VW seal (they're all over the place - pat number 085301227). You supposedly can change the seal out with oil in the box (jacking the car to push the oil to the other end) but if you don't want a face full of gear oil I'd recommend dumping the oil. Jack the front up and suppot on axle stands and remove the gear link from the selector rod and push out of the way. Now the tricky bit - you need to pry out the old seal (which is mostly metal inside - the rubber is just for sealing) without scoring the selector shaft. The usual advice is to use a couple of self tapping screws to get some purchase with some mole grips - I couldn't get the scres in (no drill) so went at it with a screwdriver until I demolished one side of it and levered the lot out. Next you want to thoroughly clean the shaft and the brass case. I would also recommend polishing the input shaft where it would slide through the new seal - use a polishing grit wet-and-dry paper and get it good and shiny. when installing the new seal you'll need to fill the back of the seal with some grease - VW used a blue sealing grease (G052128A1, find it on ebay a lot or maybe someone has a tube you can borrow), you could probably get away with a little lithium grease - its just to hold the oil in. And thats it! Well worth doing but remember that the tiniest hairline scores in the input shaft can wear down the new seal prematurely and you'll have a drip again eventually.
  22. Last week
  23. taylor

    Project Breadvan GT

    I think my gearbox has same problem popping out of 5th and when filling hardly anything came out. I’ve put 1ltr back in but didn’t think it needed like 3 litres, mine seems to have leak from underneath also possibly coming from the gear link seal aswell. do you know if new seals can be bought and keep us updated on how you fix problem. I’ve got a perfect gearbox on shelf but I’d much rather save that and try fixing this one.
  24. It might chug like a tractor but 2 turns out should let it idle. http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tech/carburetor_set_up_and_lean_best_.htm Even with a new carb the pilot/idle jet could have become clogged from the oil breather on block or its hose as the jet is only about 0.4mm diameter.
  25. anessen

    Door pockets

    Time Left: 1 month and 26 days

    • WANTED
    • USED

    I'm looking for door pockets for a Mk2 Polo, both near and offside. I'm ok to buy the card as well, but it's really just the pockets that I need! Thanks 🙂


    Trowbridge, England - GB

  26. Cheers 🙂 Working on getting a new base for the carb. Am I right in thinking that with the idle mix screw 1.5-2 turns out, it should hold an idle (even if it's running lean/rich)?
  27. If you still have have same symptoms after you have replaced the carburettor base seal, you may wall have a blocked or partially blocked pilot jet (idle jet or slow running jet if you prefer). Being the smallest jet in the carb, it doesn't take much to block it. With an obstruction in this jet, the idle adjusting screw will have very little effect. Clean the jet by blowing through it DO NOT 'prod' it with wire. - If you don't have compressed air, a can of Fellows Air Duster may do the job. The recommended 'starting point' for this screw's setting, is one-and-a-half turns OUT. - turn the screw clockwise 'till you JUST feel it contact its seat DO NOT overtighten, then turn it 1 1/2 turns anti-clockwise. Once the engine has reached normal operating temperature, try turning the screw in 90° stages, noting any increase or decrease in engine speed, if the engine slows down, turn the screw 180° in the opposite direction. If the engine speeds up, slow it down to normal idle speed on the throttle stop screw, and again try the 'mixture' screw in 90° increments 'till you find the optimum position. Finally set the idle speed by the throttle stop screw. Regards
  28. dvderlm

    About to rebuild my engine

    You could consisder fitting a longer duration camshaft: BGA used to do one (CS5394 from memory). or Ajusa 93010700 for (229 degrees at 1mm) for example https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Ajusa-93010700/2024442515?iid=232897792931 Good luck finding new solid lifters though. maybe these ---- never heard of this vendor though https://shop.mm-hp.de/Campro-CP40203-Schlepphebel-Motorsteuerung_1
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