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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/11/20 in Posts

  1. Have look at this https://www.clubpolo.co.uk/topic/357601-engine-idles-down-and-cuts-out/?tab=comments#comment-2728598I I've attached the printout from Autodata on what values you should have at the various pins
    2 points
  2. Thanks Mark, but I only know bits and pieces about 9N/9N3 era stuff, and the odd snippet about Pierburg carbs from yesteryear. :)
    2 points
  3. Pete,you're just a fountain of knowledge when it comes to polo's,don't know what we'd all do without you
    2 points
  4. Yeah just a basic key, it will have a chip inside it for the immobiliser but as I said it doesn't require any external battery to make it work, it is energised by the "reader" coil around the ignition switch.
    2 points
  5. Haha, heres a few pics
    2 points
  6. Pinking knock sounds like little man with a pneumatic hammer and ringing anvil under the bonnet. http://www.dwjenkins.plus.com/knock.wav Whistling sounds like much higher note, maybe a small hole at the carbs, but you've sealed air correctors?
    1 point
  7. Don't see why not. IR means you don't burn yourself. Just picturing Italian supercars being tuned by cooking pizza dough balls on the exhaust manifold. "The Lamborghini Aventador v12 layout can make enough pizza bases for a family of six in one lap of Imola."
    1 point
  8. Take spare plugs, perhaps one grade colder than normal. If it is too lean the plugs will probably melt/weld at electrode. Or it will burn edge of an exhaust valve. Another cheap balance and check for lean method. Get an IR thermometer and check all exhaust branches are equally hot. If one is much hotter give it more fuel. It's a poor man's EGT probe. I see about 260C on a stainless manifold. Dunno how accurate the thermometer is. My engine is high compression and cruises leaner and hotter than most. It's standard radiator is shared with VW Santana.
    1 point
  9. Nope don’t fancy that haha, once had a Range Rover blast through a flood ahead of me on the Manchester ring road, the resulting wave not only blinded me for 20 odd seconds at 50mph, but managed to put so much water on my openair roof that it started pissing out of the dome light onto me. Wasn’t a good start to the day lol
    1 point
  10. Yeah I get that, seems like every problem I’ve had with this motor over 3 years has been damp related somehow haha. New plugs are on the cards anyway, don’t like the multi electrode ones much but they seem the easiest to find
    1 point
  11. just the weld on one side should do it grind it smooth ish and seam sealer it ...what they cant see they cant fail
    1 point
  12. I’m not fitting a balance bar mate I’m connecting mine together off the vac take offs and teeing from them to the map sensor . Will do same job as a balance bar . Can’t sit in the back of mine mate as mine is a bit ratty lol . Rear seats removed and bulk head welded in . Matt black slammed to floor on borbet wheels and side exit exhaust . Want the bike carbs on it not to try and help it move a little more hahaha it’s so slow
    1 point
  13. Rusty I’ve been doing some research for mine and I jumped first and bought a vaccum distributor but have since found out if you connect your map sensor to the vaccum of your inlet your ignition will advance. The TPS only controls Tickover . Mine is actually a Skoda felecia fun 1.6 AEE which I’m doing the conversion on . I’ll be connecting the map sensor first hopefully tomorrow I’ll be doing this and get it running .
    1 point
  14. Good progress made in November. Firstly the body filler and smooth was completed: The the whole exterior was sprayed in Novol Classic Car Polyester Spray Filler plus guide coat for an overall sand, good smoothing properties from the Novol: After sanding it'll be into epoxy primer then sit for 2-3 weeks to degas. Meanwhile I got the original 13x4.5j ET50 wheels powder coated and some 135r13 tyres fitted which are the correct size for the 895cc. Even dug out a NOS period Michelin for my spare. I ha
    1 point
  15. Success! New float needles sorted it. Attempted to balance the throttles with guns on carbalancer, it seems a bit crap though so don’t know how precisely I’ve done it. Took it for a spin and it’s driveable, albeit extremely slow. Think it’s pinging sometimes at high revs/wot. The one thing I’m confused about is the revs are often hanging, I’ll get up to a speed and it’ll just coast at that speed without engine braking. When I brake or bring the clutch up the revs drop back to normal (ish) Takes ages to go back to idle after blipping the throttle too, return springs see
    1 point
  16. Yep the pump does that for a couple of seconds. After draining bowls it takes a few goes of this to fill them again and get the engine started, however I think this is because it’s wired to the original injection pump circuit which obviously work at a much higher pressure. When actually cranking and running the pump runs as needed like it should. Ive had another look at the float needles and the spring pistons on most of them are stuck in the down position, particularly the leaky carb. There was also a fresh load of gunk in the seat and threads of the main jet holder that could’
    1 point
  17. Hole in a single float so it sinks slowly. Float rubbing on side wall. Float hinge damaged. Dirt at valve. Worn needle valve tip or seat. Damaged body gasket. Excess fuel pressure. You are using a carb bike pump, not injection bike pump, right? Clamp the fuel line with a bolt and jubilee clip, temporarily to reduce flow. Consider a low pressure regulator if that helps. Are you still using a T joint? Blow compressed air down fuel return line to tank and check it bubbles. I found a diagram of fuel and vacuum tubes I t
    1 point
  18. Unbalanced throttles usually gives a shaky engine, rather than regular small pulses on the flywheel. But It's really hard to get mixture correct if one cylinder is doing the most work, because the piston next in ignition sequence will have a strong induction stroke when the current one does its combustion stroke. This can get into a rare resonance where a pair of cylinders (in inner and outer placing) push the no load engine faster as each reinforces the other. Easily spotted by removing a spark plug lead in turn and restarting on 3 cylinders to spot the strong man. Rac
    1 point
  19. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M5-5mm-HIGH-TENSILE-SOCKET-CAP-COUNTERSUNK-BUTTON-DOME-ALLEN-BLACK-BOLTS-SCREWS/111778263523?hash=item1a0680f1e3:g:w5gAAOSwqHFccfZa they do 30 or 40mm length ones, you want 33mm so I doubt being 3mm short would be a problem or get the 40mm and cut them down
    1 point
  20. punch the size into ebay , im sure they have some
    1 point
  21. Happy days, easy sorted! The metal was definately better in the earlier MK2s
    1 point
  22. Looks like a great straight solid car to start with 🙂
    1 point
  23. Check those solder connections to the instrument cluster circuit board green connector.
    1 point
  24. This why I asked what the code was ? as that would give a clue as to what is happening, and aide the fault finding, an engine starting then cutting out within a couple of seconds is classic immobiliser kicking in and stopping the engine, but there a few codes relevant to the immobiliser and without knowing what the code is you'll have to adopt the "shotgun" fault finding method and replace everything in the system, so that's the engine ECU, the Speedo unit, the ignition key barrell reader coil
    1 point
  25. Wonder if the belt whipped something when it snapped.... Battery would be quite low. on capacity but still shine lights. You could use a battery charger, or jump start from another vehicle. Does the engine turn over at all? If not I'd be looking at the heavy cable (and thin sense wire) at alternator for any damage, and checking the big fuses on top of the battery.
    1 point
  26. Hello everyone, I am new to the club, it looks great so far, looking forward to exploring it further as i need help with common problems and check out those build threads! Its Been quite a few years since I last owned a polo (first car MK2 Breadvan back in the 90's) however 20 years on i have just purchased another ! (yes old git i know...) I have owned lots interesting VW's and Audis over the years however this is my new toy - MK5 1.6 Gti - 80k, manual, 1 previous owner 20 years , completely original and well looked after - very happy all round with pu
    1 point
  27. Welcome to the site, don't worry most of us are getting old now! The 6n2 GTI's are a good fun car. The only weak spot is the gearbox, but the issues with them are well known enough that they're not that expensive to get sorted either before or after the event.
    1 point
  28. PM sent about the hubcaps
    1 point
  29. WOW - that is awesome!!! 😍😎
    1 point
  30. Water Polo. You could try shaking some talcum powder on interior to try to spot the track of drips. Might be the inner door membrane. Not trees. Oh yeah, I've known rain come down the bonnet catch cable when the area behind bulkhead had got full of leaves and dirt so was not draining (Skoda Octavia).
    1 point
  31. There are a two other codes HXL & LVA with the same overall gear ratio and fitted to the 1.6 77kw BTS engine but my list doesn't break it down to what each actual ratio is, then there are quite a few others again with the same overall ratio but they have 90mm output shaft flanges and you are running 100mm so you would need to see if the flanges could be swapped to the larger size you need
    1 point
  32. What he said ^^^^^ There's an alignment procedure for the cable change gearbox. Just needs a 5mm diameter rod or drill bit and some patience.
    1 point
  33. Tell him to check the gear change cable at both ends.
    1 point
  34. I've moved house so things have been even slower than usual! Here it is in its new home, maybe get it finished this year! Untitled by Steve Holden, on Flickr
    1 point
  35. Engines now in, to say im happy is an understatement! Im totally buzzing!
    1 point

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