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Bawbag posted a topic in Engine, Transmission and ExhaustHi I’ve had a read of the FAQ and found the diagnostic page useful over the years, but now asking for some advice if anyone else has had the same. The engine has had good quality ignition parts including a genuine VW blue temp sensor about a year ago. The symptoms have been ongoing for longer than this so they aren’t stopping the car from driving but I’m keen to fix them. 1. The idle creeps up to about 1300 or so occasionally, and comes back down eventually. I think this is only when the engine is up to temperature. I’ve tried unplugging the blue temp sensor following the normal procedure of when engine is up to temp to reset ECU. 2. Two flat spots or ‘blips’ in the revs around 1700 and 2100 as the revs climb. Any suggestions welcome. I’d be really keen to know how to test all the sensors too. I’m going to do a check of the blue temp sensor with a multi meter. Does anyone know how to test the throttle position sensor and any of the other sensors? Cheers
Hello everyone! I've had quite the adventure in the past two years driving this car. It's quite the old car, but I kind of like the character these have. Problems pop up, and go away over time, most of them ignorable, but this one was a nasty surprise. I drive 1995 Ibiza 6K with a 1.4 8v ABD. I know, I know, it's not a Polo 6N but they're very similar so I was hoping if someone would help me here. All of the other SEAT-related forums seem to be just related to the newest cars or just downright dead. No help whatsoever. :/ I once again apologize for it not being a Polo, I just can't find anyone with this specific problem. What happened prior to the problem: The other day, the weather is damp, and the car started oscillating it's revs in a rhythmic way between 750 and 1200 rpm (idle and warm up revs), it is about to stall, but then it gives itself some throttle and goes to 1200 but then stalls to about 750 and throttles itself again until I intervene with a quick blip of the throttle and it goes away. It was odd, and enough to get my attention. After about a month, I decided to reset my ECU, so I disconnect the battery overnight and after 24 hrs I reconnect it and start the car. I let it run and it got down to 750. 10 minutes later, down the road, I stop my car at a stoplight, and it starts oscillating again, I blip the throttle, and it just revs itself to redline! It does not take any throttle input anymore, and I just cut the ignition. I start it up again, and it revs itself again to redline. I was afraid to dump the clutch to see if it would keep going, but I pushed the car to the side of the road and tried to see what was going on. The mechanic replaces the throttle actuator, and it went away for 15 minutes. Second replacement, 600RPM and it was away for 10 minutes, then the 3rd one was okay for 3 weeks. Now, I was having some short-lived fun, where I used full throttle, the car pulled no problem from 2000rpm to 5000rpm. And 2 minutes after that, at a carpark it's idle went from 750 to 1000, and when I tried parking, it again went to redline, same problem, whatever I try (it was wet outside again). When I turn the ignition on, the butterfly valve is wide open, is it supposed to be like that? I've searched high and low for answers, from one forum to the next, 2003 to 2015, I've learned how Monomotronic/Jetronic is supposed to work, what inputs it takes in, how it operates and whatnot. My mechanic has a parts car, so I can get replacements right away, I just don't want to burn a hole in my pocket (it's charred as it is :/) The car sits for 3-5 hrs and the problem goes away, but I'm afraid to make any longer journey in it. Can the actuator even push the throttle body all the way to wide-open? Could the ECU be knackered? I understand that all it takes is a small short circuit between the contacts on the ECU and the actuator goes out all the way, but W.O.T.? No way. I'm lucky it's not an automatic. If anyone can help me narrow down the possible problems, I would be very grateful! I have heaps more info I got from observation research of the car, but no-one had a W.O.T. problem like I do. P.S. The MPG was usually 26, but during winter it drops to 14. Any help with that would be good as well!
MrLuke (MrLuke) posted a topic in Engine, Transmission and ExhaustHello! I have my first car, a 2006 1.4 petrol, which has a full 12 year service history, stamped etc, clutch under 1yr old, cambelt only recently changed, and has been serviced in the past 6 months. It's been taken care of, with some seemingly sensible owners in the past. I also have not made any physical adjustments to the car. I have 2 problems, which may or may not be linked, so I decided to put them in one thread: 1) Rev Issue when pulling away 2) Gear change issue Rev Issue when pulling away So my car sits idle fine, however when I put my foot on the accelerator, say 1 inch down, the revs take 3-4 seconds to build up - there is also no give between being at 1000 revs and shooting up to 3000. It also fluctuates loads. This is a much different experience from the 2.0L Audi A3 Diesel I practiced in, where you'd put your foot down an inch and the revs would hit 1400 straight away with no fluctuation. This problem is also intermittent, especially after not driving the car for a while (overnight, end of work etc) or when performing a hill start from a junction. I could put my foot down slightly, nothing happens, then i put it down a bit more and suddenly I'm at 3500 revs. When I lift the clutch, the revs suddenly drop - sometimes I have to drop the clutch back down to stop it from stalling. It also can judder a lot. I've tried pulling away with much higher revs, but they almost always seem to drop down below 800 when I get past the bite. The only method which seems to work sometimes is to keep increasing the accelerator whilst lifting the clutch, but this is not ideal at all. During the service (at a garage I 100% trust) they noticed that an air pipe leading into the engine had supposedly come lose, which they refitted. This made the experience slightly better, but not much. Gear change issue I bought this up with my garage when I had the cambelt and auxiliary changed, and they said that I should see how it goes over the next few weeks. It's not got worse, however it's definitely not got better. This happens most often in 2nd gear, and sometimes in 1st - the gear isn't located properly. I have to properly make sure that it is in place before I lift the clutch, otherwise it'll grind and go crazy (as you'd expect). It can also pop back into neutral. I also noticed, that when my clutch is completely down, and I feel my gear stick, I can feel a force juddering it slightly when in 1st - surely this should be completely still when my clutch is disengaged? I had my suspicions that the clutch was too loose and not disengaging the gear correctly. I don't know much about cars but it seems plausible. The actual gear change also feels like I'm grinding something, again when I'm in 2nd gear. Unlike the smooth change from 4th to 5th, 1st to 2nd is very un-smooth (so is 3rd to 2nd). I've likely missed an important piece of information out, so if I have then please let me know. As I said, I'm pretty new to car mechanics but I have initiative to google anything technical you mention and work it out so you don't have to teach me like I'm five I look forwards to hearing your advice Luke
Hi all, New to the forum so go easy! Looking for some help. After wanting one for a long time I acquired a Mk2 1.3L CL. The car looks great and I've already fallen in love with it. However I've noticed what I am hoping isn't a massive problem. In the morning the car starts perfectly and idles nicely. However after about 15/20 mins driving the car turns into a bit of a juddering mess. It doesn't idle well and has stalled a couple of times, at lights/roundabouts etc. I'm quite technical but I know very little about cars. I have had a good look online but everyone might as well be talking a different language. I have checked what I know how to do, air filter and oil. Both are good. Seen a few people suggest pushing down on the air filter housing to check if it could be the carb mount/gasket. This doesn't help. I have noticed one thing however which I figure must be helpful. If I stick the headlights on the idle gets 10X worse. Could I have an electrical problem. The previous owner said the two inner lights have been replaced. Could it be something as simple as HT leads? Distributor? Or the huge hole in the hot air pipe? Hope the pics might help?! Thank you, Josh.