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Just bought my second mk2 after about 4 years of wishing I never got rid of my first one. She is in a right state as fuel filler neck, wheel arch, fuel filler flap and battery tray is rotten. There’s general surface on near all panels where paint has been damaged. And one half of the car is rattle canned. As far as I can remember the polo was taken off the road in 1998 to be used as a donor car. So pretty happy to do the work to get her back on the road. If anyone else has a black mk2. I’d love to see it as I’m thinking of respraying it back to gloss black.

So I desperately need someone with knowledge on the pierburg choke set up to help me out. The choke isn't working at all, the valve stays fully open hot or cold. I've taken the housing off the sode and checked the bimetallic strip is connected etc. Twisting/adjusting the housing makes no difference. I think my fault is with the mechanism at the bottom of the levers for the choke flap. There's one pivot that controls the rod from the strip going to the flap then there's a second with notches - I don't think this is doing it's job because it won't move to let the choke be on in the first place, it's not seized but I don't think it's right. Can anyone with good knowledge of these carbs please get in touch, would be hugely appreciated! Thanks

Hi new here, just bought a 2001 1.0 6n2 and I'm just wondering if it's even worth remapping it . Cheers for any advice in advance

I've seen a quite recent post on converting a solex 31 to a weber carb for a 1.3 breadvan. My breadvan has the 1.0 block and a leaking flange between the carb and inlet manifold. The part number is 052 129 765 B , doesn't get sold anymore and doesn't have the same fit as the flange ending with A that the 1.3 engine has (to my knowledge). I wasn't able to find any weber conversion kits for the solex 31 and a flange that would fit the inlet manifold. Has anybody seen some carb conversion which fits a flange that can replace the 052 129 765 B ? I fear converting the inlet manifold with my rookie skills.

Hi there, new to the forum. I own a 1987 mk2 polo fox coupe. The car has been restored inside and out but i am now looking for more power. The car currently runs the 1.0L 4 speed engine. I am wondering what swaps have people carried out and how easy it is. Looking into a vr6 swap at the moment. Any suggestions or can anyone point me in the right direction. Cheers

Hi there, Running a polo 6n2 1.0 Y reg with only 60k miles. Recently noticed a whining noise in 5th and a bit of movement when going on and coming off the throttle. Pal advised me to change oil but haven't got round to it. However last night something went as I was on the motorway in 5th. Car still goes into every gear and drives fine but in 5th there is a crunching/grinding noise when driving. Excuse my lack of basic knowledge but can anyone tell me what might be wrong and what might need fixed? Cheers

After having my driving licence for about 14 years, I thought it was maybe time to get around to buying a car. Registered in mid '94 it must be one of the last Mk2s. It lived all its life in North-East England til I brought it up to the granite city. 50k miles. The paint is a respray by the previous owner, it's quite nice if you don't look too closely. Runs and drives alright, so I have no plans to do any serious work on the car for the time being, just trying to keep it in shape and replace things as they wear out. Shout out to anyone else running a mk2 in Aberdeen/NE, I know you're out there...

WRight, I’m in need of help. I have a 1.0 mpi, and I need help from knowledgeable people in where I can gain power - if any at all. Now, I’ll be using this for Club1000, so there are limits in what I can do to the car. The rules of Club1000 are; • Road-legal cars originally fitted with engines up to 1049cc • Cars must use the original chassis and original motors with original un-modified internals, only like-for-like replacements are allowed. No fitting Fiesta engines to Pumas, no de-stroking a 1.4 K-series to 1.0, or fitting Schrick cams to a Polo. • Standard cam-timing, standard pulleys.No bike engine kit-cars, no turbos/superchargers (original or aftermarket), no nitrous, no methanol.Intakes and exhausts are free. (Remember those cams and cranks are stock, so your £4k Jenvey throttle bodies aren’t going to have much of an effect) • Minimum safety requirements for participation on track will be half-cage, fixed-back bucket seat and road-legal 4-point harness, helmet and a hand-held fire extinguisher securely fastened. • A control tyre will be chosen that offers a good blend of performance and price and availability in the relevant sizes (13″, 14″ and 15″). Expect a maximum width of 165 to 175! • Suspension: Dampers, springs and anti-roll bars are free, BUT no coil-overs or height adjustable platforms. • Weight-saving is fine, but ultimately the car should be considered road-legal by the Germans when entering the Nürburgring. So don’t think you can cut the roof off, or replace the windscreen with a sheet of sticky-back plastic. Glass front windscreens and intact body panels are compulsory, as are mirrors and windscreen wipers! • Dashboards must be stock, door-cards must protect both driver and passenger from any sharp-edges. So first I’ll be ditching the interior and any other weight I can - suggestions welcome. Then I’ll replace the exhaust system with a custom one - i’m guessing the cat restricts the flow a fair amount. But then where next? ECU? Throttle body? Yes I know it’s a 1 litre mpi, but that’s what makes Club1000 fun. All the help and suggestions are welcomed. cheers, pie

Hello everybody! I swapped my 1.0 AER engine to a 1.6 16V AVY, replaced the engine loom, the ecu, the chip in my keys, and the little receiver around the ignition barrel, (and a lot of other stuff, like pedal box, etc) but I couldn't replace the immo box, because my loom has 6 cables, and the donor car's box has 8. (I have a 98 model, so I have the later wiring) Is there a way to connect the new immo to the car without a professional? Or what should I do? Thank you in advance!

Hey guys so the engine swap to the 1.6 AEE engine has gone on hold as my girlfriend can't afford the insurance price with that engine swap done so we are looking to get a little more power out of the little 1.0 AAU now i have some parts kicking about from my old MK2F which was a 1.3 AAV but i changed engine for 3F. Parts i have laying arround are: 1.3 AAV ECU 1.3 AAV Wiring loom 1.3 AAV Air Doughnut 1.3 AAV 5spd Gearbox 1.4 ABD SPI Throttle body 1.4 ABD Induction elbow (maybe a little overkill) 1.8 ADZ SPI Throttle Body 1.8 ADZ Induction Elbow 1.8 ADZ Airbox & Filter (whole ADZ engine & wiring loom) Im thinking maybe: 1.3 AAV ECU 1.4 ABD / 1.8 ADZ SPI throttle body 1.8 ADZ Induction Elbow 1.8 ADZ Airbox & Filter Think that should give it a little more power under the pedal? got quite a bit like i said so if anyone else knows of a way to get a little more power out of the AAU with the parts i have listed above please let me know