Search the Community

Hi I’ve had a read of the FAQ and found the diagnostic page useful over the years, but now asking for some advice if anyone else has had the same. The engine has had good quality ignition parts including a genuine VW blue temp sensor about a year ago. The symptoms have been ongoing for longer than this so they aren’t stopping the car from driving but I’m keen to fix them. 1. The idle creeps up to about 1300 or so occasionally, and comes back down eventually. I think this is only when the engine is up to temperature. I’ve tried unplugging the blue temp sensor following the normal procedure of when engine is up to temp to reset ECU. 2. Two flat spots or ‘blips’ in the revs around 1700 and 2100 as the revs climb. Any suggestions welcome. I’d be really keen to know how to test all the sensors too. I’m going to do a check of the blue temp sensor with a multi meter. Does anyone know how to test the throttle position sensor and any of the other sensors? Cheers

some info on improving your mk2f GT, not a comprehensive post so feel free to add you tips these are the quick power gains • high lift cam 264 / 268 / 270 - the biggest gain is made here. dont forget new tappets • 4 branch manifold and exhaust system - dont go to large or it will cost you power • bigger injectors • better air filter • chipped ecu those probably account for 95% of the gain you can get from the engine the next lot help to pull a few extra horses out for those who really want to put the work in: • skimmed head / port matched with inlet / exhaust • de-wedged ported throttle body • lightened flywheel - not really power but will spin the engine up faster. be warned if the fly is to light the crank will wear its bearings in opposition to porting the inlet you can use a NZ/G40 inlet with smaller holes to fill in the gap created by the highlift cam moving the powerband higher above all refresh the electric and cooling systems to have a solid runner

So hi! First post on here hoping someone can help Bought a 91 polo gt last year for a bargain and due to house move and job change amongst other things I haven't had a chance to give it a good going over. I might be being an idiot but I might be finding out why it was a bargain.. If this is actually the engine code. Started looking it over today and wanted to check it was actually a 3f. did some searching to find the code location and found a post saying "just where the block meets the head above the alternator mount" so looked there and found this. I have found other posts saying you have to take the distributor off and its inbossed just under there hence the I might be being an idiot. Looked into it and closest code I can find is maybe a 1s which would be stupid coz it's a diesel block 2.3L but I am reading it 18k90 so I'm thinking I'm looking in the wrong place. The gearbox does look matched to the engine so if I assumed the box is original to the block could I trace back the engine code through the gearbox code? The rest is a bit of a frankenstein motor so anything is possible. Any advice appreciated

I can remember being told by my insurers that in the case of an engine swap declaration, the new price is calulated according to the donor car. So my question is: if I were to swap say from a 1.3 3F GT to a 1.4 ABD, might the insurance decrease as the 1.4 Golf is presumably cheaper to insure than a GT (don't know if it is actually cheaper - just in theory)? Or, is there a 'tax' added for the extra perceived risk of an engine conversion? Has anybody ended up with cheaper insurance despite using a larger engine - say specifically a 3F to an ABD? Or did it increase?

my 3f conversion failed the mot today , 10% co at 10% its running fairly normal , sounds and drives "okay" so i gets home and mess with the afm , i can get it lower towards a pass , but it just hates it a pops and bangs and really doesnt like it all all service parts new /good , o2 unplugged,temp sender looks good on scanner , tried another afm , messed with ign timing etc checked all i can think off , cant really get my head round why it wants to run so rich and wont /struggles near normal readings

Abd 3f injection. Start the car and runs fine for 3 or 4 min then idles low and cuts out, wont repond to throttle when chugging and ramind this way on restart unless left Any ideas

just posting this to document it really early mk2 round headlight 3f ecu made by bosch , part number ending J , see it has lots of surface mount parts , general better quality feel to it later mk2f 3f K made by ken? less surface mount parts and these burnt /manually fitted parts seem the norm as we opened up another and its the same , the J one is mint

There are three types of multipoint injection engine, the G40 is quite easy to spot. This guide is to help you spot a NZ from a GT This is a GT engine (some light modding) This is a NZ engine The NZ is a multipoint version of the AAV engine which was later developed into the GT (3F). • The NZ has the same camshaft as the AAV and was meant to produce the same 55BHP but because of the improved air and fuelling some NZ produce 60+ • The NZ throttle body has a throttle open sensor not a position sensor like the GT • The NZ has the same gearbox as the AAV • The NZ has the same compression ratio as the AAV Electrical items that are different: • Engine loom • Ecu • Distributor • Ignition coil • Throttlebody Electrical items that are the same: • Airflow meter • Temperhature senders • Oil pressure switches • Fuel injectors • Idle stabilisation valve Visible differences: • The distributor has a vacuum hose connecting it to the throttle body • The ignition coil has a 5 pin connector on top • The coolent expansion tank doesn't have a sensor • The NZ has the AAV exhaust manifold The NZ is a capable engine and with the addition of a GT cam has almost identicle power

earlier this year ive fitted full 3f mpi injection to my previously refreshed abd , still not running 100% and i decided to re seal the inlet mani incase it was leaking i gets it off and find the number 1 end is oily . not dripping but a good wet coating of clean engine oil thing is all breathers are vented elsewhere so i dont really get where on earth it could have come from ?

Got a polo gt coupe in black, really condition bar the hole in the driver sill / floorpan and the 2 inch one in the passenger sill. Interior is almost mint, driver seat has an open seem on top corner. Pretty much std with a single wiper conversion, home brew mount Not had it to long so not given it a full going over, did notice the rad is cracked and the member it sits on is bent so its tapped an curb? Waiting on photobucket to show my pics Really would be nice for it to go whole as its a hardtop gt in black and pretty good condition

Hi everybody, I am collecting parts to build a 1.4 abd engine with 3f upgrades (intake, wire loom, injectors, ecu and camshaft) Trying to find a 3f throttle body, which is pretty hard to do. Am planning to put a 268 camshaft and 180 ml injectors in, in the future. So a slighty bigger diametre throttle body might come in handy. So are there any oem throttle bodys that anybody knows of, that might be a upgrade to the 3f one?

ive started a swap ..mk2 polo to 3f mpi injection etc the 2 yellow wires for the diagnostics ...the diagram i have shows it going to the interior loom white wire which is heater speed 1 ? doesnt sound right to disable the heater has anyone go a working diagnostic socket on a mk2 swap ...i need pics /help