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I can remember being told by my insurers that in the case of an engine swap declaration, the new price is calulated according to the donor car. So my question is: if I were to swap say from a 1.3 3F GT to a 1.4 ABD, might the insurance decrease as the 1.4 Golf is presumably cheaper to insure than a GT (don't know if it is actually cheaper - just in theory)? Or, is there a 'tax' added for the extra perceived risk of an engine conversion? Has anybody ended up with cheaper insurance despite using a larger engine - say specifically a 3F to an ABD? Or did it increase?

my 3f conversion failed the mot today , 10% co at 10% its running fairly normal , sounds and drives "okay" so i gets home and mess with the afm , i can get it lower towards a pass , but it just hates it a pops and bangs and really doesnt like it all all service parts new /good , o2 unplugged,temp sender looks good on scanner , tried another afm , messed with ign timing etc checked all i can think off , cant really get my head round why it wants to run so rich and wont /struggles near normal readings

Abd 3f injection. Start the car and runs fine for 3 or 4 min then idles low and cuts out, wont repond to throttle when chugging and ramind this way on restart unless left Any ideas

just posting this to document it really early mk2 round headlight 3f ecu made by bosch , part number ending J , see it has lots of surface mount parts , general better quality feel to it later mk2f 3f K made by ken? less surface mount parts and these burnt /manually fitted parts seem the norm as we opened up another and its the same , the J one is mint

There are three types of multipoint injection engine, the G40 is quite easy to spot. This guide is to help you spot a NZ from a GT This is a GT engine (some light modding) This is a NZ engine The NZ is a multipoint version of the AAV engine which was later developed into the GT (3F). • The NZ has the same camshaft as the AAV and was meant to produce the same 55BHP but because of the improved air and fuelling some NZ produce 60+ • The NZ throttle body has a throttle open sensor not a position sensor like the GT • The NZ has the same gearbox as the AAV • The NZ has the same compression ratio as the AAV Electrical items that are different: • Engine loom • Ecu • Distributor • Ignition coil • Throttlebody Electrical items that are the same: • Airflow meter • Temperhature senders • Oil pressure switches • Fuel injectors • Idle stabilisation valve Visible differences: • The distributor has a vacuum hose connecting it to the throttle body • The ignition coil has a 5 pin connector on top • The coolent expansion tank doesn't have a sensor • The NZ has the AAV exhaust manifold The NZ is a capable engine and with the addition of a GT cam has almost identicle power

earlier this year ive fitted full 3f mpi injection to my previously refreshed abd , still not running 100% and i decided to re seal the inlet mani incase it was leaking i gets it off and find the number 1 end is oily . not dripping but a good wet coating of clean engine oil thing is all breathers are vented elsewhere so i dont really get where on earth it could have come from ?

Hi everybody, I am collecting parts to build a 1.4 abd engine with 3f upgrades (intake, wire loom, injectors, ecu and camshaft) Trying to find a 3f throttle body, which is pretty hard to do. Am planning to put a 268 camshaft and 180 ml injectors in, in the future. So a slighty bigger diametre throttle body might come in handy. So are there any oem throttle bodys that anybody knows of, that might be a upgrade to the 3f one?

ive started a swap ..mk2 polo to 3f mpi injection etc the 2 yellow wires for the diagnostics ...the diagram i have shows it going to the interior loom white wire which is heater speed 1 ? doesnt sound right to disable the heater has anyone go a working diagnostic socket on a mk2 swap ...i need pics /help

some info on improving your mk2f GT, not a comprehensive post so feel free to add you tips these are the quick power gains • high lift cam 264 / 268 / 270 - the biggest gain is made here. dont forget new tappets • 4 branch manifold and exhaust system - dont go to large or it will cost you power • bigger injectors • better air filter • chipped ecu those probably account for 95% of the gain you can get from the engine the next lot help to pull a few extra horses out for those who really want to put the work in: • skimmed head / port matched with inlet / exhaust • de-wedged ported throttle body • lightened flywheel - not really power but will spin the engine up faster. be warned if the fly is to light the crank will wear its bearings in opposition to porting the inlet you can use a NZ/G40 inlet with smaller holes to fill in the gap created by the highlift cam moving the powerband higher above all refresh the electric and cooling systems to have a solid runner

Hiya, so I had my 3F ABD engine back from the machine shop today and have noticed that there aren't any location dowels in the block or cylinder head and none returned loose. Strangely I do not recall seeing them when I removed the head from the block nor when I handed the block and head to the m/c shop. I have looked on vw etka and I do not see them listed on either the block or head sections. So the question is... Are there meant to be any dowels fitted to my engine? As this could save an embarrassing phone call to the m/c shop.

I just bought a 86c bread van it used to be a 1.05 (AAU) but it now has a 1.3GT (3F) engine in it but I dunno where the engine number is on the engine for sake of changing it on V5 plus I don't know where am looking to confirm its a 3F engine. And is there anyway on knowing the year of the engine for sake of emissions testing ? All the spi inlet and ecu is still on it from the 1.05 all just run the engine on that for its mot then all be putting bike carbs on it ect. Its been nearly 10 year since I had an 86c with a 3F engine, pics are of what I just bought in the attachments.