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  1. I appreciate that this probably isn't normal fodder for the forum so please bear with me. My daughter , god bless her, decided that the dipstick was an unnecessary accessory and although no oil registered on the dipstick it really wasn't a problem. So after a 10 mile journey to the beach and back the cam now sounds like a machine gun. The Polo is a 2006 1.2 6v and admittedly drank oil like a thirsty glass blower, didn't leak it nor did it throw out clouds of blue smoke? The upshot is I have located a car with a 12v engine and wondered would an engine swap be viable and what would it entail? The other niggle is the 12v car has lost 5th gear and when placed in gear with the clutch in sounds like a towel wrapped brick in a cement mixer so assuming the engine swap is viable are the gearboxes the same for both engine variants? Thanks in anticipation.
  2. j.hilmar.christens

    Burnt Exhaust Valves

    Here we go again! Lost whole lot when tried to make my pics smaller, so to cut to chase removed cylinder head, as you'll see burnt valves, what caused it? Common fault with 1.2 Cylinder MK7 engines? Been told supermarket fuel, servo had gone, result of timing chain stretch? Chain was changed and think was missfiring before... The final diagnosis was leak test.... Didn't seem to find prob when did compression test... Note bolts can seize and thread will either need re tapped or thread insert with special tools needed... Videos on you tube... I had 1.4 polo 2001 plate, never had this problem.. This polo done over 100k, been told frequent oil changes important too as its timing chain.. Every 5k? I'm curious others out there what experience you've had with this MK7... Mechanic still rebuilding, took most of day to break... Any idea how long it should take to break and rebuild? Was quoted £300 for labour from another mechanic... Recon was £340....
  3. Hi everyone, first post so go easy on me lol. Recently acquired a 1990 1.0 breadvan as a cheap runaround, been sorting through it's issues one at a time and have reached a sticking point. So when I got it cold starts were a struggle and a high idle when warm, I started with the basic checks and found it had an air leak at the carb flange (flange itself looks fairly new and ok, but there's no paper gasket between the carb and flange - I'm assuming it should have one?) So anyway, I literally took the air intake off, undid the 2 bolts holding the carb on and pulled it aside to have a look, put it back on and now the car will not start for love nor money... just cranks and will not hardly try to fire at all, if squirting brake cleaner will just revs it's nuts off on that and then cut out again. Everything is back on the way it came off, so I'm pretty baffled as to what's happening - I did tilt the carb on its side when inspecting the flange - could this have upset it somehow? I'm really at a loss here... Fuel is getting to the carb, although the accumalator and lines are just loosely stuffed in between the spark plug leads - if anyone has a picture of how this should actually look then that would be helpful, I don't think it's relevant to the fault as it ran before but it's an absolute bodge. If anyone has had something similar happen or has any ideas that would be a massive help, many thanks!
  4. Hi, new to the forums seeking advice to solve this major problem. I have a polo 1.2L S60 year 2012 My engine decided to die on me a few days ago and since then it's not been able to crank itself over. Just before it cut out my idle shot all the way up then back down again and then cut out. Error codes P0107 and P0341 came up so I changed the camshaft sensor and map sensor as this would of helped hopefully. But unfortunately not. The car still won't start and also changed the speak plugs but not a single one will ignite. Checked the fuel line and it's 100% getting into the engine. I've honestly ran out of ideas and my mechanic friends can't figure this out all I can think is the ECU has fried or something along the lines.
  5. Ive got a mk2 1.3 1990 polo In the 6 months of ownership used daily and never had a problem before now, at the start of lockdown she was sat on the drive for 4-5 weeks (un started) while i sorted some rust on the F valence + painted the engine bay, after that on the first drive she just cut out twice but started again, the next day i drove about 11 miles same thing happened at the start of the drive, on the way back (halfway up a hill ! ) she died, this time would only restart if left for 5 and would then die after a minute ( which is still where i am at now ) oddly when running she is perfectly normal.... since i have rebuilt the carb 2 times (Webber 32/34 DMTR) replaced the pump diaphragm on the carb, cleared the fuel lines and replaced the filter plenty of fuel is getting to carb now for sure !, jets all clear and correct, i originally assumed it was fuel/carb related as before it died a few time you could keep it alive for a few seconds longer with the choke fully engaged... after another fiddle today with no success i am truly baffled and starting to get pi$%ed off with it, any suggestions would be very very welcome George
  6. I've just fitted a GT Camshaft into my 6n engine, 1.4 8v (APQ) Ive set engine to tdc, removed old cam, placed the GT cam in same position with lobes in same direction. Put on the old 6n pulley and it's 4.5 teeth out with the crank pulley still set to tdc. I've read on old posts this is how it should be when it's placed in, but then it times to half a tooth when turned? A bit confused as what that means.. Do I keep it at 4.5 teeth out? Or turn the cam to half a tooth out of the cam timing mark. Thanks.
  7. Hi, Apologies for my lack of knowledge but I’m literally a novice when it comes to cars so any help would be great. I own a 2010 polo which I bought from a dealer 2 weeks ago - 139000 km on the clock. Drives fine for a week until last week when my partner is driving to work, it showed a solid orange power steering wheel on the dash and cut out twice in in a matter of minutes when she turned a 2 corners. Since then it’s been fine for a few days, no warning lights in the dash or any worrying symptoms. i just got in the car then and turned it round in 1st when the engine cut out and it rolled to a stop. I restarted the car with no issues, but I don’t want it to happen again so wondered what the issue could be? I’m suspecting the battery or alternator so getting these checked tomorrow, but has this happened to anyone before? thanks in advance, Dan.
  8. Hello All, I have a 98' SEAT Arosa 1.0 with engine code AER. with 35,000 miles on the clock (sorry kind of a cut down Polo really) It was a great runner until it was parked up at the side of the house 2 years and 8 months ago. I started it every 6 months or so and ran it for a while with no problems. The Saturday before last I decided to get it back on the road so jump started it and it started first time and settled down to tick over nicely for 20 mins or so until I turned it off. As the battery was knackered I ordered a new one that week (reasonable quality VARTA). This was fitted this weekend, unfortunately when I came to start it it was running really bad. like it was only on 3 cylinders. Instead of persisting I decided that the fuel was most probably past it, so I got hold of a new fuel filter, drained the tank and filled up with fresh fuel. The old fuel was the colour of Whiskey so it wasn't good. No change. still very lumpy. Checked the Dizy and all HT connections etc, Nothing obviously loose etc. Tried unplugging cylinder 1, this made no difference to the running, 2 and 3 caused the engine to stall, 4 also made no difference. All HT's seems to be arcing away strongly to the metal shrouds on all cylinders. Checked the plugs for damage and cleaned (looked really good actually) however, 1 and 4 were wet. Didn't have any spare plugs or leads so sprayed the whole area in WD40 to see what happened. started and ran beautifully, 5 mins then reverted to running badly.Tried the spay again, but still ran badly. Decided to compression test it just to clear up any concern about valves. Did this with a cheap AM-Tech unit which I know from testing my Ghia is not correct and it gave 85 psi across all cylinders which is very low, but that's the crappy gauge. the important thing was they were all identical. Checked the connections to the injectors for security etc. Tried to start again, but now would not start at all. Just the odd fire and backfire through the throttle. Checked the dizzy again and found it to be cracked. GREAT. ordered a new on. This arrived today. Fitted it, still the same. Wont start. Checked the leads and coil with my timing strobe and there is power traveling down the leads from the dizzy, so I guess the coil, dizzy and cap are OK, so maybe just the connections to the plugs and/or the plugs or something fuel related? Any pointers/experience would be much appreciated. This was supposed to be a cheap recommissioning as it also needs an exhaust and MOT. I really don't want to throw money at it. Shame really as its in really good nick, Money so far - Battery £45.00, Fuel filter £7.50, Fuel 25.00, Dizzy and Rotor £15.00 = £92.00. It soon mounds up. Update, Just removed all the plugs and checked them for firing. They are all sparking, how well I am unsure but there is a blue spark present for all of them. All of the plugs except one from number 2 cylinder were wet and smelled of fuel. Number two is the one that is firing now and then, so was dry and sooty. So, fuel is present along with a spark, Cant think what I'm missing?
  9. Hi all, I have a Polo 1.2 from 2004. I want to replace a part and I cannot find it anywhere. Inside the engine plastic cover, there is a rubber gasket, that is at the connection with the throttle body. Basically this gasket sits on the top of the throttle body. Could you please help to find this part? I looked everywhere, but I couldn't find it. Thanks
  10. Can anyone tell me what the corrugated hose ( metal inside, cardboard outside) that runs from the exhaust manifold round the corner to the air filter? Is called and where I would find a replacement. It is about 2 and a bit inches in diameter thanks in advance
  11. Hi, I'm selling my Polo, I've spent a small fortune on this car and it seems a shame to just bin it, but unfortunately the cost of the repair is worth more than the car. The engine is in great condition (about 120,000 miles) and was rebuilt (professionally) about 8 years ago, since then the cars only done 4,000 miles a year. So, anybody looking for an AFK engine ? Problems 1 - there's a 'revolving' 'flapping' sound coming from the clutch?? When you press the clutch in the sound goes away - but as you drive along and the road speed increases so does the 'revolving' 'flapping' sound. This is the reason I'm selling the car. I'm ill and don't have the energy to work on this car any more :( it's been sitting on my drive for 9 months now, so it's got to go. 2 - there's a small hiccup in the idle, but the car drives fine (this is a problem in the electrical loom and has been there since day 1) 3 - and the car needs a couple of quid spending on it for the MOT.
  12. Recently when cold, my car engine sounds a bit "tappy". It quietens down once warm, and I can only hear it when the engine is revved a little. Sometimes it goes completely. It might be worn tappets. Are they expensive to replace? Is it cheaper to try an oil change?
  13. Daniel hunt

    1990 mk2 polo

    Hello everyone, My name Dan Hunt, im new to this sceen, this forum and new owner of mk2 vw polo fitted with a 1.1litre engine with a pierburg 1b3 carburetor Ive read a few posts but i havnt found to much that helps me with my problem. So heres the problem. Yesterday i went to drive my polo and started up right away from cold with out a single issue as normal but was fast idling. Then soon as i pressed and release the accelerator the engine revs drop the engine judders a bit and then fights to stay alive but dies. From warmish start it starts up right way without issue again as normal but then soon as revs settle to idle it judders and dies. So far ive tried cleaning the carb as much as possible without stripping it apart. And ive noticed a crack in the carb mount. And ive noticed the vac lines could need replacing and the fuel lines also which i will do soon as possible. I believe it must be something wrong with the carb i have some experience with carbs from my 1960 beelte but i know zero about this complicated looking pierburg and have no idea of its common faults and fixes. Anyhelp or past experience with this would be amazing as i need the car working by next Thursday
  14. I'm about to pull the engine on my 84 mk2 breadvan and I'm going to fully rebuild with some gt parts and porting work for fun. Is it worth doing the bottom end too? I was thinking of leaving it. Is there anything engine/not engine related that you guys would recommend I take a look at and replace whilst its out that I might not know about? I can see theres a bunch of full engine gasket sets on ebay... is there a particular one I should go for or will any do. I'd like to work on the gearbox too, again is there anything I can replace in there? which oil does it need and how much? Cheers
  15. I've done an engine swap in my MK2 bready, the engine "works" but I can't seem to run without the choke on (or slight acceleration). I'm running with a piersburg solex pic 7 carb on a new rubber flange with no air leaks. Without choke it will try to run then cough and die even when the engine is warm. Any ideas on how to get this to idle smoothly.
  16. Hi All. I am getting upset with the issue that I am facing with my car. 1.0 engine petrol manual. After igniting the engine the rev is at approx. 1200 when it was 700. When I press gas to 1550 then release the revs drops to even 600 then jumps back. Mostly it happens on cold engine. Other thing. When I a. On 2nd or 3rd gear with rev on 2500-3000 then put into neutral the engine can switch off. 3 garages could not find the issue. Attached video with rev issue. Thanks. Luk Ps I could not attached video so I upload it. Link here https://youtu.be/oXdHdJ8i62s
  17. Iv had my beloved polo for a few months now..... its slowly getting there. Most recently ive had a leaky head gasket which is costing me a fortune in cardboard for the garage floor😂😂. Gasket was changed before it came into my ownership and not sure whether it was ever torqued down again after settling in. Would anyone have settings the gasket should be torqued to when tightening for the second time? Any help is greatly appreciated :)
  18. Hi... can anyone help I have a 2011 gti when I give it some beans the engine light comes up flashing then goes off again... any Ideas? Thanks
  19. I'm currently running my engine without a thermostat. This doesn't seem to bother the car in any way but I was just wondering if there's anything I should know. Basically the car seemed to randomly get hot a few times for no reason and I suspected a sticking thermostat. The fan works fine and comes on when it should. It's a 1.0 engine with around 50000 miles and most of it looks like it's hardly ever been changed or tampered with so I took the thermostat out and replaced the small amount of lost coolant with a substance called "water" that seems to do the trick, and I have been running it like that for a couple of months without any problems. And yes I will probably fix it properly at some point but for now the car seems quite happy and It's not winter so I'm in no need of a strong heater at the moment. The temperature reads at the lowest end of the guage most of the time and only ever creeps up to almost normal if the car is stuck for ages in heavy traffic on a hot day but even then the temperature still doesn't seem to get high enough to even trigger the fan so I've not been too concerned. However, if the car was still like this at MOT time would the cooler running temperature possibly cause a fail on emissions or does the ECU still sort that out even at low running temperature?
  20. Hello Is BNV engine code a straight swap with AMF engine ? I understand it has different power but apart from that can i remove BNV and put AMF instead. Are there any other alterations required like wiring or turbo? Thanks in advance.
  21. Hi Everyone! Hope someone on here can help.... I've had this high pitch humming/whistling noise coming from my engine. It happens when I accelerate at a certain point usually heard in the first 3 gears. (noise still is heard when pressing the clutch in) it is also heavily noticeable after switching off the engine as seen in the video. I hope someone knows the issue, sometimes it's barely noticeable, sometimes louder and sometimes does happen at all, so I'm at a loose end with this one! Please see the following video of the noise : (Video has a few different clips, might need to turn the volume up to hear the noise, hard job to do when driving!) www.youtube.com/watch?v=RjG7Nr33Ymc Car: VW Polo '06 1.2 Litre Cheers, Luke
  22. Hi my 91 GT cut out twice the other day while driving engine just cut out. I pulled over and it started back up. I drove around another 5mins and as I slowed down for traffic lights it cut out again but fired up straight away again . External fuel pump was replaced around two years ago with an eBay special. I must point out this is not a daily runner as I have another VW polo Your thoughts and advice is most welcome.
  23. Hi all I have a 1994 MK2F 1.3 Genesis and have noticed this little leak from the engine - what are people’s thoughts on what the cause is? I think it may be the thermostat housing? coolant level and temperature are all fine so no overheating issue.
  24. So I've just taken the oil/air seperator off and it looks like you can't open it for cleaning. Looks like a sealed plastic unit. Since I've done away with the standard airbox and plugged off the random hoses couldn't I just make a blanking off plate to bolt on where the oil/air seperator used to go? I figure it's not a closed oil system of some kind. Seems to me if I blocked it off with a plate the engine crankcase vapours could still breathe as needed by way of the rocker cover vent hose, which I'd probably just route in a convoluted way to the underside of the car somewhere. Would this work?
  25. I have a 1977 Derby 1.3 that drives just fine but needs some rust and technical repair. Body parts seem to be very rare if not impossible to find. Have most of it sorted out, but more parts and more power would be nice. Having owned a G40 before, I miss that engine... Now... I have been offered a cirka 1993 Polo G40 with a turbo, aftermarket subframe, coilovers +++ for a sensible amount of money. How much of the 86c parts will fit my MK1 Derby? Will the subframe + motor, suspension and brakes be bolt on? How about the doors..? Is there a cross reference list available somewhere? I have tried searching - a lot.... Excited that I found this forum. Thanks in advance!
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