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Found 9 results

  1. eurorob

    Breadvan inspiration

    Recently bought myself a breadvan, had one years ago and when I saw this forsake it brought back memories so I just had to buy it, looking for a bit of inspiration for what to do with her, I'm fancing a bit of a retro stance kind of look for it but what pics have you guys got to give me inspiration
  2. Now, me and the other half are looking at putting a wide arch kit on car as my OH rushed the job with an arch roller. I'll honest this is actually on a Jetta, but you guys helped me massively with my old polo. We just wondered if anyone had heard anything along the lines of; once the arches have been cut and welded back, do the tyres tend to catch on the arches that have been cut back. As we dont want to cut the arches out and not be able to drop the car as much as we want. Doesn't matter if the advice isn't for a polo golf or jetta. any help is much appreciated.
  3. Hello all, recentely rebuilt the engine on my 1.2 9n polo and got so much satisfaction that I now have a new found love for my polo. Starting to have it as a project car now and as a start I'm wanting to stance it out. However I am new to this and I need some advice. I will be starting with coilovers and following that with banded steels however I don't know what size banded steels will look best. Any advise on how to work that out? And photos of other people's 9n's will be appreciated, thanks for you help
  4. AllanHardie

    Flash Red 1.4 8v - New Updates!

    Hi everyone, recently bought myself a car some may know/have seen due to its feature in FastCar magazine, well the car was sold in march for £2500 to someone who really never looked after the car, ran it into the ground, and didnt care about it, i seen the car come up for sale and seen the potential in it straight away. I sold up my impreza and made the journey in a recovery truck to collect her. The bad bits list is never ending .. 4 bald tyres wheels need a refurb no tax no mot no cd player as it was stolen no windows worked drivers door loom was melted/ caught fire wires and cables everywhere bumper scratched/ grazed bonnet covered in water marks due to face mask small dents in body work very dirty drivers side front bearing gone no handbrake rear brakes needed done front brakes needed done ABS sensor away and soo on .. the good parts now 2 way rayvern air ride suspension, shortened struts and firestone bags 380cc Compressor 6.5j Banded space savers tidy enough car except the dirt and dings false floor smoothed boot GTI seats GTI Headlights and only 75k miles on the clock Full face mask "gimp" mask will be for sale, aswell as banded space savers with 4 brand new tyres soon.
  5. Thought I'd put together a quick post with regards to suspension kits/setups. I regularly see the same questions asked, particularly on social media with regards to suspension kits, lowering cars etc; so I thought I would try and generalise some advice. Generally, the majority of people seem to want to lower their car, which can be achieved in several ways. Cheapest option: Lowering springs. These can be bought cheaply, and of different brands and quality. Often designed with a few of the coils designed to go coil-bound under the vehicles weight, this ensures the spring is still properly seated with the suspension in full rebound, but also allows it to sit lower under its weight. Generally, you get what you pay for - the springs will tend to be a different rate to standard, and totally change the character of a car, therefore the standard dampers will no longer be matched to the rest of the vehicle. You may find it doesn't drive too great with just lowering springs, or you suffer premature wear of your dampers. Spring and shock kit: As mentioned above, damping can be an issue with lowering springs - not just the damper settings themselves, but also the range of travel the damper has - generally a lowering spring will be both shorter and stiffer, so to ensure it has the correct amount of pre-load, dampers matched to lowering springs tend to have reduced travel. You can spend between £100 and probably £1500 on a spring and shock kit. Cheaper kits will do the job - but probably won't be as good a quality, or have had any of the R&D which a more expensive kit will have had (Bilstein for example) Dependant on your vehicle platform, ride heights can be adjustable with a spring and shock kit via a circlip on the damper body, however, not as accurately as 'coilovers' Coilovers: People commonly describe a lowering kit with threaded height adjusters as coilovers, when really coilovers just means a coil spring over the damper, so technically every standard polo has coilovers on at least the front, and on the rear on some models too. However, for ease of description, coilovers are a spring and damper kit, which generally has threaded adjusters for adjusting ride heights. This is what people tend to go for to get their cars really low (although a lot of them aren't actually approved to go as low as people run them) These are great for tweaking your ride heights, and particularly if you have a track car, setting up the corner weights accurately. Again, you get what you pay for, cheap coilovers can be had for around £150 and up to and over £2000. Cheaper ones tend to again 'do the job' by lowering the car, however handling and ride quality tend to be somewhat sacrificed. More premium brands such as KW put more development into their kits, therefore you are paying towards that, but essentially end up with a better product. Air Ride I don't really have any experience with after market air suspension, so wouldn't like to comment on what is good and bad. Air will let you drive your car at a sensible height, then release air from the air springs to lower your car to look better. Air springs can be a very tunable component, however I have no idea how much thought is put into this for after market kits. Certainly sleeve bags can be made to have linear and non linear rates so you could essentially make a great kit if the effort was made. From what I have seen a lot of kits use bellow style bags, which I don't really know anything about. Air can be bought cheaply second hand, or you could pay up to £10000 getting a good kit professionally installed. Summary When it comes to suspension, the first thing you should ask yourself is 'What am I trying to achieve?' Generally you are compromising a car from what the manufacturer originally created when you start fitting after market suspension, so you need to decide what you are willing to compromise, whether that be ride quality, handling, durability, practicality and so on. Personally I would save up as much as possible to buy the best quality kit you can, it may even pay to buy a premium Spring and Shock kit, instead of a cheap coilover kit. I have witnessed lots of horrors with after market suspension kits, with regards to how they are fitted, or removing parts to make cars lower etc. Just bare in mind, if things like helper springs and bump stops are supplied with a kit, they are supposed to be fitted - if the manufacturer didn't deem them necessary, they wouldn't put them in! When you are driving along and the vehicle goes into a heave moment, such as a small "jump" in the road the main springs become unloaded, without helper/tender springs, the force of the spring acting on the tyre contact patch is lost, the same thing happens when cornering - as the car rolls and the inside of the car essentially lifts up, the spring becomes unloaded, this results in a huge difference in contact patch loading on the tyre, which could well result in erratic and dangerous handling characteristics. Here is an example with a tender spring correctly fitted. The vehicle has its wheel off the ground, so the damper is at its maximum rebound travel, yet the spring is still preloaded: Here is an example without a tender spring fitted, note the gap at the top of the spring, this means there is a lot less force acting on the tyre (basically just the weight of the unsprung mass hanging down) but also when the suspension is compressed again it will have very little force due to no spring resistance, and then a sudden large build up of force: You will find with more expensive coilover kits, the height adjustment range is a lot less than that of cheaper ones, this is because it has been designed to work around a certain range, and optimised for that. This is a key indicator that cheaper kits which have a huge lowering range aren't perhaps as great as people think. I have tried to explain in simple terms to help people understand, but anyway, I hope this brings some help to someone!
  6. mehowski

    Mehow's first car - 6n2 16v

    Hey guys, my name is Mehow and I'm an 18 year old lad from London. I've written up a much more detailed thread about my car on Stance Works, however I thought i'd be fitting to make a thread on here too. The S|W thread is way more detailed as I got quite tucked into the write up over there, but I'll cut it down for you guys here Long story short, back in November I was one of those 17 year old who just passed their driving test I got myself a part time job and saved up enough to afford my first car (with a little help from my parents, who I've not payed back) My insurance restricted me to a 1.4, so the hunt for the more desirable 16v begun I'm a true car guy, so I've done my research at this point and I knew exactly what I wanted Canyon Red SE, 51 reg with a sunroof and rear speakers Then this thing came up for sale not too far away Black Diamond Magic S, X reg... full poverty spec, no speakers, no sunroof no nothing. The cup holder was the only optional extra her The good bits? Most of the service history was in tact, it only had 79,000 miles on the clock and the guy wanted £680 for it I sent my dad off to take a look at it whilst I was at school (my dad is not into cars, sending him was the first mistake of this whole build) Dad was happy, I was happy, why wouldn't I be right?? Insurance and tax sorted, and my dad even haggled the £80 Fast forward to 9:00 on the same day, it's dark and rainy and I'm outside The central locking works, lucky me looks like the ebay central locking has held up First time I drove a car since passing my test 3 months ago, it was rainy and dark. 40 mins later I make it home Next morning I get to see what I really spent my money on Halfords wheels from the previous owner are there Paint is scratched to shit But, the important thing here is, I just purchesed my first car - to say I was excited was a very very big understatement It may have been budget spec, however... The engine is more powerfull than your average 6n2, theres disks and callipers on the front and back and the tires were fairly sporty and new If it's just me in the car, this thing whizzes - perfect little motor for me, the sort of raw driving experience I dreamt about before buying a car 1 week into ownership, engine light comes on Now let's get this straight, I'm poor and even £100 worth of expenses into my first week of owner ship seemed dreadful to me I booked myself a slot at the local mechanic I shall leave the story here and carry on tomorrow, I have plent of updates to come Thank you for reading
  7. So guys I have decided that due to there being absolutely no information on the limits of lowering your car; be it coilovers, springs or bags. I would like you to post a picture of your car along with a tape measure next to it showing how far it is from the ground. Along with a short list of the pro's and con's of the height you have set your car with the set up you are using. Keep it short guys Please note that this will not be a competition, it is going to be the only source for a lowering guide
  8. Hi all, I've just bought my first car- a Mk2 Polo Coupe S 1.3 from 1990. Before the face-lift to the mk2f. I've got some engine upgrade plans in my mind, but I want to get it looking sweet first. So, I need some help. My mechanical knowledge/ability, although not non-existent, is relatively limited. So i thought the easiest and safest way to do this, would be to ask, heres the deal: I want to lower the car a bit, not all that much, just enough that it handles and drives better, and looks better. I don't want it scraping on speed bumps though. What do I need? Who do I need? What cost am I looking at? I'd rather spend more and get a proper job, then spend the bare minimum and have it shitty. like I said, its not just for looks, I want it to handle better round corners and feel smoother when cruising at higher speeds. Thanks for any suggestions, Olly [Pictures] http://gyazo.com/f6834494862ce22df00db8eebebea3a3
  9. jaike7

    my 6n2 1.4 16v

    Bought a silver 6n2 last wednesday, found one completely standard which is a bonus. I have loads of plans for this, low and slow is the main idea, needs a good tidy up and MOT sorting before any of that starts though!
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