Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'afh'.
-
2 6N POLO GTI ENGINES BREAKING As titled I have 2 6N gti engines for breaking. Both engines were around 90,000 miles before they were removed and I brought them. Both in good condition, more detailed pictures upon request. Prices upon request, would prefer pickup but can meetup can be arranged Prices upon request, would prefer pickup but can meetup can be arranged. Located in Wimbledon area
-
Blue vacuum check valve. Where does it go?
contactnfsu posted a topic in Engine, Transmission and Exhaust
Was checking my box of spare 6n parts and found a blue check valve that I had removed at some point and never connected back. It is exactly the same as in the pic below. Does anyone know where does it connect to and what purpose it serves? I can't remember. Thanks! Car is a 6n1 AFH engine. download.jfif -
I did a timing belt change today but I was having trouble with the timing marks. On the cam gears there are 2 dots, and I know they have to be aligned, looking at each other. On the crank gear the mark is a ground tooth, but where should it be facing? I have seen some AFH cam belt changes online, but mine does not have the same marks. For e.x. This one seems apparent as to where the mark should be facing. But my car has this type of marks on the block. Does anyone know where the crank mark should be facing?
-
Hi all, I currently own a mk2f breadvan running a AFH Swap with CBR900 carbs, been told they are recommended jetting to run but they are still over fueling on full throttle was told to get rid of them and put 600 on, what should I do? rejet the 900? Or get 600’s?
-
Okay, so I own a 16-valver for about a year now. When I got the car it was idling fine, but after a few days after releasing the throttle it would do the common problem of idling hunting from 1300-2000 rpm. Disconected the battery terminals several times, until one time It started normally and was hunting from 1000-1100rpm. After a few miles I noticed that when I stopped completely it would idle at 900rpm. And that was it, within a matter of days the hunting was completely gone and the car would always idle perfectly. Fast forward a few months and the problem started again, but much much worse. It would do the usual of not idling correctly but would not fix itshelf by just disconecting the battery. I started digging and to date I have done the following. Changed the distributor, changed the temp sender, cleaned throttle body, blanked off the egr, replaced all the vacuum hoses, changed spark plugs, tried a different throttle body, (Mine is 036133064E and the replacement was 036133064J) changed the MAP sensor, (although I am not sure if i got the correct one), Checked for continuity between different sensors and the ecu plug. Results are: Temp sender: Three out of four wires have continuity to the ecu pins The fourth one i pressume goes to the dash(?). MAP sensor: All of the wires have continuity to the ECU, however one wire has continuity to 2 different pins of the ecu, could not find continuity beetween the sensor's pins and ground. Also when the ignition is on the 2 middle wires have +5v After all this, the car is still hunting, but less, (1300-1400rpm) and when I stop completely it idles at 1100rpm and not hunting. BUT after all this the car is no longer running as it was. It has doubled in fuel consumption and the plugs come out dark indicating it is running rich. Also there a noticable power loss overal, but the most frustrating thing is that off the line the car is chocking even at full throttle until i pass the 2000rpm mark. Vag com ruturns ABS faults (Bad ABS module) and throttle position sensor error but this can be attributed to running the car without the TPS plug for testing. I tried running the car without the o2 sensor, nothing changes. Today as i was messing arround i unpluged the TPS plug and the MAP plug. The car was idling perfectly, but as soon as i opened the throttle it would choke and die since it has no idea how much air is going in. I believe the problem can be traced to bad wiring or bad TPS sensor in the throttle body. What should I try next? Does the wiring sound right to you? Any ideas are more than welcome.
-
polo 6n 16v 3dr blue Vag number: 030 906 030 E ECU: MARELLI 1AV 2230 original brought the car and it drove perfectly however the throttle would stick at 1500 before dropping when rev'd, the issue is throttle body clogged had this issue on my gti, cleaned throttle body out and deleted egr pipe to stop further blockages. however now the car idles erratically 2000-3500 rpm on idle seemed like it needed a tba or had a air leak, smoke tested car three times and there is 0 leaks using a genuine copy of ross techs VCDS (at my work) tried to tba however 098 shows no units, tried with Bosch esi-tronic aswell as snap on but no luck. adapting throttle in have tested coolant temp, throttle body, wirring between ecu and throttle body, coolant temp sensor, map sensor wirring. via autodata specs have also swapped the ecu for a second hand one but no difference. have lived with this issue for 6 months now 10k miles and no closer to fixing it p.S unplugging the throttle body makes the engine run fine but with higher fuel consumption and no cold start. any suggestion would be greatly appreciated as am running out of options, have read through all the old forum posts on this issue over and over with little actual fixes. I cannot provide a VCDS code read out due to it is on a work computer, but can take a picture and write it up if needed.
-
t bolt battery clamp for smaller battery leads
damunk posted a topic in ICE, Electrical and Lighting
the standard t bolts that clamp the battery negative lead sold on ebay are too big. anyone know where to get any from?