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Now then Recently went in with a few mates to buy a breddy that had been stood a few year purely to make a bit of cash for my MK2 golf (hence the title, the missus thinks it's funny) Stored it on my drive, I fell arse over heel and ended up buying them out of it. So shes an 89 breddy, in white. No rot, no nastyness and a CBR powered Afh. I must add at this point that I know nothing of this car, I bought it unseen the mates who went to get it were clueless so I don't know when it was last ran/drove all I know is the last mot expired 2011 and it must have been garaged because it's in incredible shape. So before I even turned her over I pulled the carbs off, pulled the plugs, little bit of derv down the bores and let it sit over night. That night had a look inside the carbs(CBR f2) and decided that they needed rebuilt as most of the o rings were perished along with lots of seized brass. Main jets disintegrated on removal too. So if anyone wants some junk cbr f2 carbs I'm your man. Next day, turned her over by hand a few times felt good so dropped the oil, changed a few filters (thank God euros is still open) and did a bit of general poking /inspecting. turned my attention to the brakes, surprisingly okay no locking, moving freely and looking in decent shape. Ordered new carbs, new cables and a few other goodies to try and get it up and running at the weekend. Should be a laugh. If anyone knows the previous owner I'd love a chat and I look forward to having a carb'd 16v in my life again. Cheers

Model: 1992 Polo CL Coupe Engine: 1390cc AFH on standard 6n injection Suspension: TBC Brakes: Standard Wheels and Tyres: BMW E30 Bottle Tops 14 x 6 ET35 Exterior Styling: Standard, rusty, bit of a state Interior Styling: Corrado seats, GT clocks To Do List: Too much to list... Better late than never for a build thread I suppose. I bought this Polo at the Polo Social 2017. Within 5 minutes of being on site at the Social it was affectionately nicknamed "The White Shed of Excellence" thanks to @jonPDpolo. The reasons for which I'll not go into, if you know...you know. The thing was a state, had been sitting for a while since the previous owner had moved abroad. However it had been converted a few years ago to an AFH and had been looked after at some point. So as a result it drove back to the camp site and then back home to Scotland the next day pretty much flawlessly. This is how I picked it up. Unfortunately lost the 'L' from this windscreen sticker Got it home and desperately had to do something to it right away. First thing I thought of was swapping the old clocks out for a set with a rev counter. A few days later it went up to visit the 'Death Van' which was sitting up at my mates house. We agreed on a deal for him to buy the van off me so long as I could take "a few" parts off the car... I may have taken a little bit more than I made out... Anyway the front end of the car went from this. To this. Much better I thought. Over the next few weeks when time allowed it was just a case of cleaning things up when I could. Starting with the state of the engine bay. I do love the look of an AFH in these. Also sorted something that had been annoying me from a safety point of view. The Corrado seats have a really tall seatbelt clip. Me being a skinny chap meant the lap belt didn't actually contact me at all. Just went over the seat and flopped about. So to try and avoid submarining in the event of an accident I swapped the Corrado seatbelt clip for one off a G40 seat. Success, the lap belt now contacts me as it should with a bit of room in the belt to spare before the stopping pin thing. Onto a cosmetic annoyance was the colour coded bumpers. As I'd changed the front for a none colour coded item I set about changing the rear. The best one I had in my collection was a 'race spec' one that had been drilled a bit Looks better than the colour coded one anyway. A few more bits and pieces were sorted then it was time to put it on a complete set of wheels. Went for a set of 14" BBS RAs at first which I think looked alright. I then got my hands on a set of BMW E30 bottle tops. I think they looked a little better. That was pretty much that for a while.

VW POLO 6N 1.4 16v OPENAIR AFH **breaking** Grey 5door Roof SOLD wheels SOLD suspension SOLD front bumper and grill SOLD rear bumper SOLD interior SOLD still have other stuff like ignition parts, throttle body, headlights, thermostat plus housing and headlights. Please give me a text on 07854942204

Hi there this is my polo I bought for £200 it has been sat in a barn for roughly 8 years originally a 1 litre but had a 1.4 16v swap on bike carbs I eventually got it running (running rough which I expected) but still very surprised I am now in the process of tearing it all down and going to rebuild it cheers carl

I just bought a 6n1 afh polo to break for a conversion in my mk2f 1l genesis. What gearbox is best option to fit?

Hello, Wonder if anybody has the 1.4 16V combustion chamber volume written down somewhere? I don't have access to one yet, but I am wondering if it would be feasible to put it on a block with a 1l (or there abouts) capactity without a too large of compression drop as some would be even good, as I would also want to put a small turbo on it, perhaps off of a 1.2/1.4TSI, if the price is right, as it seems to be a bolt-on judging by the gaskets? I want to recreate the Gol 1.0 16V Turbo to some extent (i know the bore and stroke is off)

Engine struggled to start third time round. After rebuild, with news cams, pistons, rings etc engine ran for ten minutes then there was a oil leak. two weeks later oil leak sorted, started engine and ran at 2000rpm for another ten minutes stopped engine but this time around tried to turn it over straight away and the battery could not turn the engine over. felt like a dead battery. the mechanic said because the engine is now hot the compression will be higher and the battery is struggling. stopped the engine as while the radiator fan kicked in. i have converted the engine from 1.4 to a 1.6 afh conversion. Does this mean I now need a stronger battery? The battery for the 1.4 should be 440ca, 50ah. The battery for the 1.6 should be 550ca, 60ah. but ive seen people using a 45ah in thier 1.6's infact some websites sell 40ah for the 1.6. i measured the battery with a multimeter and it read 12.2V when engine switched off. p.s new battery & new alternator

anyone else notice the oil dipstick size for the afh oil drive chain pump engine is longer than the dipstick used in crank driven pump engine? why would this be? is it because pick up pipes are situated slightly different in sump?

So I'm running a Hybrid on AFH injection and the rev gauge feed has been put on the coil but iv heard that you're better off going off the hall sender?

Im wondering if anyone can give me some pointers on wiring up a AFH to run injection, I'll be removing the Immobiliser from the ECU and all the wiring, my questions are can I get the mk2f rev counter to work with it? Because I know it runs of the coil, how do I go about wiring in the fuel pumps, how do people get the oil pressure switch to work and what do you use iv been told to use both the AFH and the mk2f and get an adaptor, do I need to use the AFH fuse box aswel as the 2f one? Anyone can answer one of these questions would be great.

Hello. I'm making 1.6 hybrid AFH and wondering which ITB did you guys use for it using EFI? GSX-R 600 K1-3 or something different? Cheers.

Hi I've got an avy and an afh engine. I'm doing a bit of a hybrid. But looking today and the bolt on breather on the block is really unsightly. Is there a blank or an adapter to put a little filter instead. Any ideas

POLO 6N AFH 1997 I purchased a genuine elring seal: 028103171B I purchased also a gasket: 026103181B I did not use the gasket because it did not fit so i thought because the crank seal had a rubber lip on the inside housing, that they might have updated the design therefore not needing the gasket. I got the part numbers from: https://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/rdw/polo+derby+vento-ind/po/1998-158/1/103-103005/#15 I also noticed that the actual seal that goes around the crankshaft was in two parts. a thin back seal and a front thin seal. Not quite sure how you install that. Anyway got a pretty big oil leak. Pictures below to show what i mean about the inner rubber lip on the housing.

new schrick camshafts making ticking noise? having to contend with all the smoke coming out of the back, fuel ratio not to bad for a first start got it up to 2000 rpm and kept it there 2 minutes then switched it off as the ticking noise from the cams increases with rpm and somethings not right. are new cams supposed to make a noise until they have been run in? im in the garage to there is echo but still i wanted a super quite drive train. new valves, guides, cotters, hyrdaulic lifter rockets and cams. p.s ticking noise is tapping noise.

loads of parts available 07816934375 for details

theres 12v feed to coil pack when ignition is turned on, but when cranking it drops to 0v so i dont get a spark i used to have it plugged in underthe steering wheel fuses, can remember which one. polo 6n afh which you reckon i should use. megajolr edis 4 cheers

gearbox is in and connected the selector to the gearbox. first of all bolt keeps turning , not sure how tight it is supposed to be. secondly after tightning it, pressed clutch pedal to test out the gears and every gear is going in very sluggish and very difficult. it feels very ugly like if it is being forced. not how it used to be. they would go in like a normal car should lol. the oil level is very low but as im not driving the car yet should that have any effect on the gear selection smoothness or have i cocked up the selector to gearbox.

can someone please give me the torque setting to the water pump and the cam belt idle roller if they have. thank you.

Car - 1999 Polo 8v with an AFH engine + transmission Wheels - 15 inch with 195/50 Conditions - Greek summer so ambient temps of >30c I was travelling to my home town and I was bored so while in the highway I kept from 93mph to 105mph. The AFH trans is ridiculously short so the revs were probably in the 5k+ range. Engine temp was OK. The highway at the time was empty, so my speed was consistent throughout my trip. When I reached my town, the following problems occured: While downshifting to the first lights, the 3rd grinded. When i tried to re-engage no gear would go in. I used my momentum to put it on the side and waited for a couple of minutes (engine on). After that, the gears would go in but I also had a noticable rpm-dependent whine. When I reached home I realised that the whine would dissaper when I pressed the clutch pedal and prompty reappear when I took my foot off. After I let the car sit for a few hours, the whine was gone, and the gearbox seemed to be OK. Under the hood there is a strong smell of gas, and there is an irregular clicking noise that I think comes from the gearbox area. Did the gearbox overheat? After my drive I was thinking about clutch bearings, but now the whine is gone so I'm not so sure. Any idea of what might have happened?

So hopefully in the near-ish future I want to convert my coupe 1.3 to afh 1.4 16v and i just want to fuel it with injection but I'm not sure about the wiring iv heard of a complicated way of splicing the looms with both the fuse boxs or something along those lines and iv also heard that you can make a loom using both engine looms with minimal wires just wondering if anyone can shed some light on which is the best way to do it and I really don't want to run it on bike carbs.

Hi, I have got all the front panel off etc I am wanting to take the engine out only leaving the gearbox, driveshaft etc in. I assume I just undo the main engine mount and the gearbox main bolts? Can all this be done from the front and not getting underneath engine? I have engine crane hoist.

where oil sensor is at front of head. to side of that, half way down engine : 4 black plugs going into a box

So I'm gathering parts for my AFH conversion on my 1.4 6N. Today I picked up a throttle body for a good price (in my country). When i went home, i realized that *something* inside is hitting the plastic housing on the side (see attached image). It sounds like some small part is sliding on an axle. It is not loose in the sense that it rattles around every time I move it, but rather it hits the housing every time I tilt it to the left. Is this normal? Should I return it?

I currently have mk2f polo coupe with a 1043cc 4 speed and im looking to upgrade to a different engine and looking for advice and which to go for 14 afh, 13 gt, 14 8v etc appreciate the help cheers

Hi Everyone, So I am working on a Mk2f polo breadvan van. I bought it as a completely stripped shell with a few parts, I've worked my way up to making it solid, fitting some suspension, steering rack, wheels, brakes. I do have the original 1l engine, but it wasn't in the car when I got it, I haven't seen or heard it run. and then I've the original mk2f loom, which doesn't seemed to be marked very well. In my head I'm thinking it might be easier to drop a AFH or ABD engine in which ill strip myself from the donor, with its entire loom and drop it into the breadvan. Does an AFH or ABD just plop straight in? and more importantly, if I like the loom ignition etc straight from the donor car and put it in the stripped polo will there be any issues? Car is and will stay totally stripped, so no heating, no central locking, no anything that it doesn't need to stop and go. Any advice, suggestions more than welcome. Thanks