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Showing results for tags 'bodywork'.
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So I'm new to this site and new to cars. First car is 6n polo and it needs a bit of work on the body work. Most of it is pretty simple but I've found the blank on my passenger side rear is very broken and rusted ~ see photos. Not to sure how to fix it and wondered if anyone here could help. Thank you!
Another MOT question for you guys. My 6n has quite a large rusty hole in the spare wheel well and I would love some insight into whether this will fail its MOT next month. I’ve stupidly not paid much attention to it for the best part of a year and it’s now time to start worrying. Terrible pics attached. Rust hole can be seen on the left of the second one in relation to suspension and stuff.
There has been progress over the last few months. All rust on the offside has been sorted except for a hole above the door which I will finish in the next couple of weeks. The original engine and gearbox are out allowing access to all of the engine bay. The steering rack has been off to replace the rubber boot and to treat the rust behind it. To get the brake servo conversion in, the pedal box had to come out to remove the original bolts that the master cylinder bolts to. A brake specialist tested the servo and found it to be faulty so that has been repaired and now bolted to a new master cylinder which I think is a Morris item. I have kept the access to the pedal box open because the push rod length into the servo is adjustable and I like the brakes to be instant with the minimum of brake pedal travel. A remote reservoir for the brakes now will bolt to to the suspension tower The original axles have been taken off in preparation for the uprated items that have been made to replace them. After doing a compression test on the new engine all the cylinders are reading 125psi which is about 8.5:1 compression ratio which is a bit higher that I wanted but I think the engine is strong enough to take the boost. If needed I have a decompression plate that I could use to reduce Another job in progress is a temporary ignition enough to getting it running on a stand with a carburetor to make sure it runs before it goes into the car. I have decided to run it ultimately on distributorless wasted spark which means the ECU has to have a cam position sensor. This I am going to do with a 8mm diameter magnet where the distributor drive pin would normally go and the sensor goes into an adapter where the distributor would normally go. Another advantage with a cam sensor is that it will allow fully sequential fuel injection. To allow better access to the front of the engine I am going to make a removable panel in the offside inner wing that will allow access to to the trigger wheel and sensor. It may be necessary to extend this removable panel to allow the slightly extra length of the engine because the trigger wheel that has been adapted to the crankshaft pulley. Also in the inner wing will be an in line air filter. When the pedal box was out, I made sure the clutch cable reinforcement cleared the side of the pedal box so that has been completed with two grubscrews so it clamps to the plastic end of the clutch cable. Some years a go I got a top suspension brace. This, I hope will fit after the engine goes in and will be held by six 10mm bolts. This means there is no room for the expansion tank so I have to find room for another one somewhere else in the engine bay After the stage 2 subframe goes in, I am going to try and mount the ARB so it stands off at about 30mm so it clears the subframe. The bonnet latch panel is beyond repair so it is being replaced which means that the front wings have to come off to get to the points where the panel is welded on. The front wings are the Mk2 ones that don't have the holes for for the indicators so I am going to put them back but in a non stock position as long as the cables reach. At the moment it looks like an oil cooler will fit beside the radiator and if needed a small fan to help with cooling. A while a go I made a stainless steel plenum chamber that bolts to the top of the throttle body. I am not happy with it so I am going to make a new one in aluminium that fits better. It will have a pipe coming off it going to the pop off valve. Another pipe will link up with the intercooler.