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Found 24 results

  1. Time Left: 5 days and 11 hours

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    Complete 1.0 1988 breadvan manifold, 1b3 carb and air filter housing. Only thing im not sure on is the whereabouts of the 3 nust to hold the box onto the carb. Car ran fine when it came off a year and a bit ago to make way for bike carbs. Only carb is pictured but i do have the rest.


    Lichfield, Staffordshire - GB

  2. Okay so my car cut out again this morning, started fine, idled fine half choke and drove off fine, wouldn't rev high whilst on choke, wouldn't idle whilst off choke, then 100 yards down the road cut out and wouldn't start, just kept turning over and turning over for about 5 minutes then eventually started to pick up and started again. I must be getting air in from somewhere on the carb as I've tried richening up the mixture to no avail, gunsons colourtune shows no change in colour no matter hkdow far you adjust the mixture screw and gas tester shows .6-1.1 co on idle, plugs are white This makes me think that its carburettor issue causing the cutting out and not starting unfortunately I didn't have a spark plug with me to check if I had spark when it cut out So I've been considering changing the solex out for a Weber but I'm not sure which is suitable I've seen people mention 32tla but is a 32tlm for a 950cc fiesta the equivalent?
  3. I've recently bought a 1982 polo breadvan with 1043cc engine and manual choke carb and it idles fine, starts fine and runs okay apart from sputtering every now and then. It appears that it's fine when throttle is wide open but when pulling away or changing down gears and pulling away it struggles causing the car to kangaroo before picking up again. I'm having to compensate with high revs when pulling away to avoid it stalling and those skinny little tyres struggle enough for traction and wheelspinning away from every junction isn't as fun as it sounds. Just wondering if anyone has had similar issues or any idea what to look for? I'm assuming its carb related so I'm assuming that will need to come off and have a good clean. Any help or advice will be much appreciated Thanks Dan.
  4. Hi everyone, if anyone could help me diagnose my problem that would be amazing! I'm sure its down to something electrical? I have recently got back hold of the car (off road since'15) I had her firing a few times but running naff (always near enough flooding) so since these things I have changed; spark plugs, battery, replaced 1 HT lead (misfire), dizzy cap, oil sensor, blue and black coolant temp sensors, full service (oil, air & fuel) and also added and exhaust system. I have also added a gasket to the throttle body which was missing and fixed the one which sits between this and the carb (thick black one). Only after getting this far with the car today I've managed to see how bad the carbs flooding, if anyone has any ideas what it could be please let me know OR if you get the nail on the head I will PP you a beer token! :) Many thanks video here -
  5. Hi all, I sold my breadvan a few years back and bought it back recently, it had been in storage for 3 years and was absolutely sodden when I got it back. It started up first time and then didn’t for a very long time until changing the; HT leads, battery, dizzy cap, plugs and clearing the fuel line and fresh fuel. However, it was always flooding itself so I needed to rectify this issue - I changed the SPI unit / throttle body (at this time I didn’t realise there was no gasket). At the time of bad flooding you could hear the fuel pump priming strongly. Since then I have changed the ECU (noticed a change in fuel pump priming), oil pressure switch, both temp sensors and added a gasket to the carb flange. I managed to get the car running and ticking over today (sweeter then ever before) however it’s only willing to run on ether, and there appears to be no fuel getting to the carb. The fuel prime sounds weak now in comparison to the previous ECU. Any ideas? Should I revert to my old ECU? Fuel pump or relays? Many thanks!
  6. Is the inlet manifold different 1.0 to 1.3 mark 2 polo??? Also will a 1.3 carb fit on a 1.0 inlet manifold? Thanks!
  7. Hi all, been lurking on here for a while but never made an account. recently bought my first car, a p reg 1.4 cl (8v) with the Openair roof. Absolutely love it but have already caught the bug in terms of modding. Been reading up about carbs (seems less daunting than a 16v) to give it some more oomph but there’s one thing I’m not clear on. How does the ignition work when efi and stock throttle body etc is gone? Seen some websites saying I can run off stock distributor but lots of talk on here about mk2 wiring? Fairly new to it all but sort of mechanically minded so just looking for some explanation maybe. sorry for the long post and thanks in advance to anyone who bothers to read this and help a newb out!! ?
  8. Hi all, First post, apologies if it's been covered before but I couldn't find anything in the FAQ or search to help me out with this. I've just bought my first mk2 and it's got the weber 32 tla carb with auto-choke. The clown who sold it to me had tried to start it up by pouring petrol directly into the carb and the resulting fire managed to take out most of vacuum routing and wiring to the carb. I'm in the process of getting everything back together but the Haynes isn't much help. If anyone has nice clear pics of the tubes and wires on their weber carbs it would really help me out. Thanks! :) -Neil
  9. I've just put a replacement pierburg 1b carburettor in my polo MK2. Now she runs I've realised the rad fan isn't working and nor is the temperature gauge on the dash. The old pierburg had a line from the air filter sensor to the base of the back and the auto choke had some electrics. The new one is a manual choke and hasn't got the pipe for the sensor or any electrics. Could this be causing the fan not to run and the dodgy gauge?
  10. i am wondering if there is thread or someone can help me on how to take the carb off. I have never delt with carbs on a car.
  11. Hi all, I have trawled through the FAQ's and theres lots of info on carbs but not really much guidance as to which direction to go. I have a standard 1.05 Mark 2 Breadvan, the carb is playing up badly, huge flat spots etc. I don't want to mess around with the tiny Pierburg that's on it and would like to upgrade just cant decide which route to go...... Bike Carbs and Twin Webers would be great although just plonked on a standard engine Im not sure particularly a good way to go. A single replacement weber would be great but they seem hard to find and Im not fully sure whats usable on the polo, as Ive come across a few webers for the 1.3 mark 2 not 1.0 but I thought they shared the same inlet manifold? Anyway advice, help, suggestions would be appriciated
  12. Hi experts; Three Pierburg questions; 1) Who might supply a throttle cam (the rotating part the nipple of the throttle cable fits in to on the carb) to suit a Pierburg 1b3 on a HZ engine mk2? 2) In the following photo, is the big arrow pointing at some kind of automatically controlled idle or enrichment device? 3) In the following photo, the hose the little arrow is pointing to is a vacuum hose. I can blow/suck on this hose with no reistance - is that correct? Thanks in advance, K
  13. Fakadakis

    Air Box Help

    Hello ClubPolo I have a MK2 and bought myself a new air box as the original is a massive great thing, that just doesn't suit the look I'm going for. The original had two hoses/pipes that went into the base of the airbox. The smaller one goes into the base of the carb, the larger one disappears behind the engine. My question is, are they necessary? As my new airbox does not accommodate these two hoses/pipes. Do I need to drill holes into my new air box? Or can I remove the hoses/pipes completely and plug up the holes? My carb is a Vergaser Pierburg 1B (Part No. 030129016L) And the Air Box is K&N 56-9152 (http://www.knfilters.co.uk/search/product.aspx?prod=56-9152) I bought an adapter for the airbox thinking it would let the larger rubber hose that disappears behind the engine fit onto the airbox, but it is the wrong size for the airbox, it's too long and wouldn't work anyway as there is no gap in the filter itself. Not too sure what to do or who to talk too, I can add images if anyone would like but the pictures are so large I can't add even one. I'd have to link them on my google drive which I'd like to refrain from doing unless absolutely necessary. Cheers, Josef
  14. 052129723D 052129723D Support. My 1.05 1990 Pierburg carb is mounted on a poor rubberised manifold adapter. The adapter plate rubber fails most years, leaks air and car wont idle. Is this 052129723D Support something that fits between the top of the manifold adapter and the head to reduce the load on the adapter? I dont seem to have this support bracket and am trying to work out why the adapter fails so regularly, Two topran and one VETECH failed in < 4 years. Yes - I know, never buy vetech.... Thanks in advance.
  15. Anyone used this carb on a mk2 1.3 before? May be buying one that has been fitted to a 1.3 jetta previously. How hard would it be to do the swap and any tips?
  16. So i fitted a 32/34 dmtr to mk2 polo 1.3 and after having to remove my return line to get it enough fuel to it so that the second chamber could work i thought that would be it. After doing another 300 or so miles i went to drive home from work last night when it seems that when ever the throttle was slightly or barely touched it would splutter and try to cut out, however when foot to the floor using second chamber it drove fine with no problems? Also whilst sitting at idle this morning try the same revs it still happened? any thoughts? Cheers
  17. I&#39;m after a little help if anyone could give some advice it would be appreciated! I have an 86 breadvan 1.0 and when i start it from cold it runs super lumpy and rough and before i go anywhere i have to sit for 10 minutes or so with my foot on the accelerator to stop it cutting out, it smells really fumey too and cuts out at junctions when i have to stop/slow down... when its warmed up its not AS bad but when stood still the engine revs up and down slightly..any ideas? I&#39;ve cleaned a couple of the accessable from the top of the carb too but no joy!
  18. hey y'all, sooner or later ill be getting a weber to replace my pierburg carb, but i was wondering where i can get an adapter for the new weber? anyone got one for sale on here?
  19. Jumped in my car this morning, pulled out the manual choke maybe a little too hard and it just kept coming. The cable was visibile coming out of the dash, i checked in the engine and couldnt see the cable going to the carb. I tried pushing the cable back through from the handle, but it hasnt appeared from out of the rubber tube. The question is, once i've got the cable back out how do i reattach it to the choke?. It looked like there was a hole for it to go in, but i dont know how i will get it to stay connected. I'm currently at work so cant go and check the car right now. Any help will be appreciated.
  20. Bonjour, I was wondering what carb is on my 1989 Polo. Its the GL 1.05L engine. I have read that it could be the Solex PIC, Weber 32, Pierburg 1B3 or the Pierburg 2E3. I&#39;m looking to find out which one is the standard one so I can find a good thread to service/dismantel it and learn how it works better. Cheers for reading and any advice.
  21. aaronjohnson94

    Help please.

    Hi just wondering if anyone could help me please. i looked under the bonnet today and noticed a fuel leak from the back of the carb. could anyone tell me the component its leaking from? as i am having trouble finding any info or gaskets for this :( as the pin goes in the fuel gushes out of the component? any ideas. Thanks
  22. Hi got my pierburg 2e carb of the breadvan 1.3 today and want to make sure the jet size is fine.what size jets should be in there Where should i replace gaskets on the carb since (if needed) carb since there was nothing when i took it off.
  23. Hey there guys, first post on this forum, after trolling through many a forum to try and find answers i have yet to find any. I have a '89 mk2 squareback, 1043cc with a weber tla which doesnt like to idle at all, I've changed the base flange as it was split and leaking air and ever since it has been idling like a dog, sometimes wont even fire up at all, what I&#39;ve noticed is that the choke flap is fully verticle all of the time weather the car is running or not hot or cold, ,it will stay at its almost closed position and idle fine if i push it back by hand but as soon as i touch the throttle it springs back into the verticle position and stays there and the revs jutter around like mad like its trying to cut out, I&#39;m assuming its something to do with the choke as it should be almost closed at cold, the water pipes and choke housing do get hot so water is getting to it, do any of you guys know what my problem could be and how to sort it out or would it be easier to just convert to manual choke? Cheers Alex
  24. What carbs will run smoothly on the 1.3 breadvan mk2 g Reg. Straight swaps ideally.
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