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  1. Hi all I removed the clutch while waiting for the new kit to arrive. But like a plum I forgot to take a photo of the pressure plate so I could install the new one the same. So now I can't remember the correct way round the pressure plate is installed. So if anyone can help please ? Many thanks.
  2. Hi just want to make sure before I order that a new clutch kit is 190mm for mk2f 1ltr . Thanks.
  3. Hi All I should start by saying that I'm not particularly into cars or the mechanical side of things but I thought I'd treat myself to a bit of luxury after going through two highly reliable Ford Ka's that got me the short distance to and from work without kerfuffle for 15 years. In May 2018 I picked up my brand new SEL. I immediately noticed that the 1st & 2nd gears were quite difficult to engage on occasion particularly when compared to 3-6 that were/are very smooth. Basically, they were crunching. I put this down to the car being brand new and running in. After several weeks though I took it back to the dealership and they said it was just a running in issue. I got to about 1,000 miles a few weeks later and returned the car as gears 1 & 2 were still crunching. I subsequently booked it in for an inspection and they said that there was a fault and replaced the clutch. Obviously I wasn't too chirpy about this as by this point I had only driven about 1,500 miles although I was relieved that the issue was supposed to have been solved. (I bought a VW because I thought they were supposed to be reliable). Initially gears 1 & 2 were better after the new clutch was fitted but the crunching has now returned. I now have about 2,500 miles on the clock. Obviously, this is a concern! Interestingly, the basic Golf that I was given as a courtesy car when they were fitting the new clutch also had 'sticky' 1 & 2 gears although they weren't crunching. This car was a few years old with about 25,000 miles on the clock. Due to my lack of mechanical prowess I don't want to be fobbed off when I return to the dealership yet again. I would appreciate your views please. Ta Sheps
  4. Hello all, The car: 6N2 1.4, 8 valve petrol. I got my clutch replaced around 3000 miles ago. And over the last few weeks my clutch sounds like this when cold (see example video - you'll need to download). http://www.cosaw.f2s.com/NotBackedUp/clutch.AVI The one they took out (replaced by the same company) had only done 40 to 50,000 miles so I was suspicious that they should be replacing more than just the clutch kit and guide sleeve on this new job. I could hear ticking noises which got a lot worse when pedal pressed - I assumed it was the release bearing and took it in when it sounded like it was ready to pack up. The pictures following are from the 40 to 50,000 mile clutch they pulled out and was wondering if this was a normal failure mechanism - the release spring fingers being eaten up. As far as I can tell the bearing itself seems ok but not sure if it should be able to be pulled into three pieces. The guide sleeve is worn and was replaced. The friction surface looks fine (to me) and the clutch was not slipping. What do you guys think? I know something's failing in this new 3,000 mile clutch and I suspect it's something they didn't replace which is what also killed the 40-50,000 mile clutch in the above photos. Not sure I understand how the release bearing and sleeve fit together. But if you look at picture 8, the guide sleeve doesn't even touch the release bearing (there's got to be 4 to 5mm all round). Looks like the sleeve is merely there to catch the failing release bearing and stop collateral damage??
  5. AaronAnderson13

    BNM Upgrades

    Jumping straight in.. I need help on what sort of injectors would fit, ive heard that the 130pd injectors fit but not quiet sure on what engine code I should be looking for. turbo is not a big issue as ive heard the garrett they put on the 1.4tdi BNM was half decent, im only looking in the 100-120 range of BHP. So, a remap is definiately happening with all of the exhaust being gutted, now would a straight pipe be better than cutting out the inside of the cat? due to pressure loss or something? maybe not enough to even feel a difference but maybe. just need a little direction as this is the first diesel ive tackled. thanks in advance 🙂 Aaron.
  6. During a long drive my polo has developed a sort of gentle slow regular tap when the clutch is in and first gear is selected. Could this be a case of low gearbox oil or perhaps the clutch release bearing? No whine or grinding and it seems intermittent, as in I can't replicate it on short drives. I'm in the middle of a very long trip but potentially could get some parts shipped out with a friend in a week. Also what's the stock gear oil volume and rating? Haynes says 2.2L SAE80, is that right and is there a modern equivalent?
  7. Hello everyone. This is my first post here and I can say that I came here for a desperate situation that I've been through in the last days. So my car is a 2000 6n2 gti 1.6 16v engine and I bought it last year. Everything ok at the beginning until one day (about 2 months after I bought it) I noticed the clutch was slipping a bit (the car had 4 people and luggage) . So I always thought that soon I would need a new clutch. In the past couple weeks I was having fun with some mates at the roadway and after that, the clutch started to whine (nothing super loud, radio could perfectly "cover" that noise). Yesterday night I got in my car, I put the 1st gear and some metallic noises started to come from the clutch (not sure if it's the clutch) and my car lost a lot of power specially on hills (clutch slipping). Now I try to drive it and it's almost impossible, the noise it's incredibly loud, everything cracks down there and everytime I change a gear, it vibrates a lot. Now even on neutral, it whines loud and I looked under the car and it's leaking oil from the clutch housing hole (not a lot, some black drops) when the engine is running. So, yea, I think it's easy to conclude that my clutch is completely fried and I need a new one, but what about the oil? Where does it come from? Is the gearbox done for good? Take note that since I turned off my car the last time I cannot put any gear, even whit the clutch pedal pressed. Any tip, advice, technical information would be greatly appreciated. Sorry about my English. Best regards from Lisbon - Portugal Ricardo :)
  8. Where to start??? (i'll make it as short as possible) Noise when idling which goes away once clutch is depressed.. After much research possibly two culprits; 1. release bearing. 2. input shaft bearing. Took gearbox out to GEARBOX SPECIALIST who gave it a external examine (spinning & listening to the moving parts) Advised by said specialist to change clutch as it could be just that and it may be more cost effective as, if he opens it up and finds nothing it'll cost, popped new clutch it, got gearbox on (replaced gear oil) started car, noise still there but a little quieter (a little). So new clutch, pressure plate, release bearing, release fork, gear oil. ***Not fixed** input shaft bearing guys? I don't wanna take the gearbox off again if it isn't that So noise at idle, clutch down = no noise Has anyone had a similar issue? p.s I have a spare clutch now
  9. Hello! I have my first car, a 2006 1.4 petrol, which has a full 12 year service history, stamped etc, clutch under 1yr old, cambelt only recently changed, and has been serviced in the past 6 months. It's been taken care of, with some seemingly sensible owners in the past. I also have not made any physical adjustments to the car. I have 2 problems, which may or may not be linked, so I decided to put them in one thread: 1) Rev Issue when pulling away 2) Gear change issue Rev Issue when pulling away So my car sits idle fine, however when I put my foot on the accelerator, say 1 inch down, the revs take 3-4 seconds to build up - there is also no give between being at 1000 revs and shooting up to 3000. It also fluctuates loads. This is a much different experience from the 2.0L Audi A3 Diesel I practiced in, where you'd put your foot down an inch and the revs would hit 1400 straight away with no fluctuation. This problem is also intermittent, especially after not driving the car for a while (overnight, end of work etc) or when performing a hill start from a junction. I could put my foot down slightly, nothing happens, then i put it down a bit more and suddenly I'm at 3500 revs. When I lift the clutch, the revs suddenly drop - sometimes I have to drop the clutch back down to stop it from stalling. It also can judder a lot. I've tried pulling away with much higher revs, but they almost always seem to drop down below 800 when I get past the bite. The only method which seems to work sometimes is to keep increasing the accelerator whilst lifting the clutch, but this is not ideal at all. During the service (at a garage I 100% trust) they noticed that an air pipe leading into the engine had supposedly come lose, which they refitted. This made the experience slightly better, but not much. Gear change issue I bought this up with my garage when I had the cambelt and auxiliary changed, and they said that I should see how it goes over the next few weeks. It's not got worse, however it's definitely not got better. This happens most often in 2nd gear, and sometimes in 1st - the gear isn't located properly. I have to properly make sure that it is in place before I lift the clutch, otherwise it'll grind and go crazy (as you'd expect). It can also pop back into neutral. I also noticed, that when my clutch is completely down, and I feel my gear stick, I can feel a force juddering it slightly when in 1st - surely this should be completely still when my clutch is disengaged? I had my suspicions that the clutch was too loose and not disengaging the gear correctly. I don't know much about cars but it seems plausible. The actual gear change also feels like I'm grinding something, again when I'm in 2nd gear. Unlike the smooth change from 4th to 5th, 1st to 2nd is very un-smooth (so is 3rd to 2nd). I've likely missed an important piece of information out, so if I have then please let me know. As I said, I'm pretty new to car mechanics but I have initiative to google anything technical you mention and work it out so you don't have to teach me like I'm five I look forwards to hearing your advice Luke
  10. Hi all. Hope you may be able to help me out. I have owned my breadvan for just over a month. Not had any major issues until today. I only use my polo to get to work at the moment and its about a 15 min drive from home. However today I took it up the motorway for the first time after about an hour and a half of driving i came off the motorway and I physically couldn't get into gear. I had to pull over to the side of the road, stop, then I was able to get it into first and drive off. This happened another few times before I managed to get to where I was going. From what I've read on here/elsewhere it seems I may be looking at a new clutch :( I've had a look for replacement kits but I'm struggling to find a match. I drive a Mk2 polo. 1.3 CL 1990 and my reg is H102 MUH. Hope you can help. Josh
  11. Hi All This is my first post, and I suspect has been posted before but I've not found a complete answer. I have noticed a "scraping" noise when in gear and under load - goes away when the clutch is depressed. At first it sounded like a disc or pad problem, but changed all those and no different. The noise tracks the engine speed - sounds like something rubbing part-way through each rotation. I was advised it was likely to be a worn clutch with the rivets rubbing on the flywheel - but it's not. The clutch is getting on but not excessively worn - and no marks on flywheel. There is a fairly flimsy metal shield between the clutch housing and the block - does anyone have any experience of the flywheel rubbing on that? Having searched around, it seemed that the gearbox is a common problem so I took the bell housing off for a look. The diff bearings feel fine - except for the broken tapered washers (blue in picture) but I understand these can still work even in several pieces? The bearing that has more play is on the middle shaft (outline in red). Everything is held in place but seems like there is some wobble. The input shaft bearing also feels fine. So - is the middle shaft bearing likely to cause the noise? I guess having come this far it's worth getting that replaced? Any other possibilities? Thanks!
  12. Anyone had this problem (Mk2/Mk2f owners)? My clutch pedal sticks to the floor when fully pressed, after a sec or so it starts to come up and bangs back if my foot is not on it. The clutch doesn't slip, but every red lamp start is pain and concentration. I seem to be a learner. It seems to be working when full cold, but will stick when the engine gets warmer. I will do a full clutch job in a week, but would I need to change something else also? Cheers!
  13. GTi TURBz

    9n3 gti clutch

    Yoooo, So im changing over the gearbox soon and now looking for a new clutch, can anyone recommend good brands or companies to go to? cheers Matt
  14. Hi in need of help,im building a hybrid engine build 1.4/1.6 mash up,its going in mk2f & its my 1st build so was wondering what clutch & box to use in it!! Many thanks andy
  15. Hello there, ive got a question regarding clutch plates after the superchip has been added, the polo in question is a 9n3 1.4 tdi 2006 believed to be a single mass but i could be wrong as i haven't checked and i also haven't checked the engine code, i know it may be difficult to pin point anything as of the moment but i would like to know if i need any fancy clutch plates (as mine is slipping) and i don't want to buy the normal plate and have it slip again due to the extra torque ! if it is a single would it be possible to perhaps send me a link to one and also a link to a dmf one too ? cheers guys !
  16. My timing belt slipped and at least 8 of the 16 valves are damaged. Also have a problem with my gear linkages, and the mechanic said I may as well replace the clutch if they sort out the gear linkages. Water pump will also need replacing. Estimated cost is at least £2000, I bought the car for £1700. Is it worth repairing, or is there a better option to get it fixed? If I don't get it fixed, I'll try to sell it as non-runner, as the car only has about 42 000 miles on it and is in great condition.
  17. Hi guys I've owned my 6N2 for two years now and he's a fantastic car. We've done 10k+ miles and he's never missed a beat .. until now. In March he failed the MOT on emissions (running rich) but the garage mechanics couldn't say why - it looks like it may be a lambda sensor. The only code we've had off him since then (which comes up intermittently) is 17574 - 'Long Term Fuel Trim: Additional Air Bank 1: Range 2 System Too Rich' - P1166. Anyway, I've got a couple of jobs on him that need doing but haven't got any mechanically-minded friends. I'm in Bristol but obviously can't drive him far as he's not got an MOT (and therefore tax/insurance are invalid). I need someone (local, unless you are happy to travel!) with free time to come and work on him. I'm happy to pay for parts and time, obviously . Briefly, I think what's needed is a new clutch and lambda sensor (to get him MOT-ready) and then in addition I've got some service parts that need installing (spark plugs, fuel and oil filters, air filter). Any help ASAP would be amazing - please get in touch if you fancy saving a really good car. :'(
  18. Sooo, did a complete overhaul on my 1.4 16v. Clutch, timing belt, drivebelt, had to rebore manifold threaded holes as they were knackered. Turned it on for the first time yesterday and it made some horrible noises. I think I have messed up the timing as when the engine turned over the first few times it sounded as if the pistons or maybe valves were pumping/operating at a much higher speed than the engine. Very strange. Also with the top cam cover off the belt spins slower than the drivebelt. I am confused and also concerned. HELP?!
  19. So I was driving down the motorway today, took my foot of the accelerator and I could hear this grinding noise. When I accelerate again, the noise goes away. The noise also goes away if i'm off the accelerator and I put the clutch down. Sounds to me as though two cogs are grinding together or kind of like the noise that the pointer makes on the wheel of fortune . All jokes aside, i'm hoping this is nothing serious but a friend of a friend (VW mechanic) has said that purely from my description, it sounds like a gearbox issue - *touches wood*. Any help would be much appreciated! Gunna get it down to my local garage ASAP but in the meantime would like to get a rough understanding of what it could be. Thanks!
  20. Hey! My new 2016 Polo GTI seems to have a squeak .. had it checked out by the dealership and they thought that it may be the brakes, typical. However the squeak only appears whilst in low gear, in cold weather and when the clutch is released. Could be the TOB? Anyone else had this issue? It's going back to the dealership tomorrow for a further inspection. Melissa
  21. Good afternoon all, After I finished work last night, I quickly realised that I was unable to put the car into 1st, 2nd or reverse gear. Luckily I managed to crawl home in 3rd & 4th. The clutch feels fine and the pedal box was replaced only a few months ago (I have checked this too and it's not cracked). I don't know anything about gearboxes or gear linkages. My Haynes manual doesn't give me much information about this either. Is this a common fault? Does anyone know how to fix this? Cheers Ben
  22. Hi All, I think the dreaded pedal box has finally struck my Polo. I have been concerned for a few months that gear selection was occasionally difficult and the clutch pedal creaked and was lower than the brake pedal but after adjusting the clutch cable a bit all seemed ok.Due to family problems the car has not been used much then when i was on the way back from the shops the other day it went again. I have tried to get the lower dash panel off (the one with 3 screws) to have a look at the box but for some reason it just will not move? With some difficulty ( i am not young enough to bend double anymore lol) i have managed to get a camera up by the pedal and if what it shows is the bracket it looks to me like the spot welds have broken ( i also found a small piece of broken metal on the carpet) .It would really be helpful if someone who has dealt with this problem could just confirm that’s what the photos show and a rough idea of what it’s lightly to cost me to have it fixed in the Birmingham area so i can try to avoid getting ripped off. Any help gratefully recived.Thanks for your time. Eric
  23. Hi Again! Back once again looking for answers; I've got a 6n2 1,4 AUA engine and gearbox ETD Have been looking around for a new gearbox as mine is completely knackered* Found a DKE gearbox for cheap, aware that the ratios differ but can't be picky when used boxes directly interchangable with the ETD start at 450 Euros, not including clutchkit and such. My question this evening is what kind of clutch kit should I buy? One that fits the AUA engine or one that fits the 1,6 engine the gearbox came from? AUA seems like the logical answer or am I way of?
  24. Hi My 1990 1043cc HZ egnined has a dragging clutch which appears to be caused by broken fingers. Looking online and back on the forum here, I'm confused which type I need. Some threads suggest fitting one listed for a much later engine? Some refer to 180 or 190 mm but both sizes seem to refer to the same engine. Is there a definitive way of identifying the clutch required before I remove it from the car? Trying to avoid leaving the car in a friends garage with the gearbox out for a week whilst I measure and order a new clutch. Thanks in advance, K
  25. Hi guys, I have posted on here before regarding this issue, but I've had more of a look at the car now, based on previous comments. Basically, when driving from cold, the car is pretty much spot on gear change wise, the linkage noise is a bit more apparent than in other cars but that's about it. Once it's warmed up, it's like a totally different car. The clutch pedal goes stiff, and it creaks pretty badly, it hates downshifting (when turning in/approaching a roundabout etc). It also crunches into gear quite often, and there is a whine when decelerating. If I'm at a set of lights, it won't go into first unless I press the pedal a couple of times. The next day, once it's cooled down, it's fine again. It never pops out of gear, and the clutch doesn't slip. Once in gear it drives fine apart from the whining. We jacked it up and checked the level, fluid came out of the fill hole quite a lot, so we drained about 1/2 a litre until it trickled out, the fluid looked pretty fresh, when I bought the car the previous owner had clearly kept his eye on it, as he gave me some fluid with it. My mate adjusted my clutch cable at the same time, and it seemed a lot better, but again once it had warmed up it went back to being a massive annoyance! The clutch cable is pretty new, but I didn't fit it Can anyone shed some light on this for me. I've had one of these before, and whilst it changed gear fine, it did whine. Part of me thinks the whining is gearbox related, and the rest is another issue. Thanks for any help!
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