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Are you a fan of the classic Volkswagen Polo GTI, or are you ready to embrace the future with the all-new electric Cupra Born? As more car enthusiasts weigh their options in the evolving landscape of motoring, the choice between traditional performance and cutting-edge electric technology is becoming more compelling. Stylish Showdown: Cupra Born vs. Volkswagen Polo GTI In the battle of style, the Cupra Born emerges as a sleek and sporty electric hatchback, designed to turn heads on the road. With its distinctive lower grille, narrow slit between the headlights, and copper accents both inside and out, the Born presents a futuristic aesthetic. On the other hand, the Volkswagen Polo GTI opts for a more familiar hot hatch design, featuring sporty details like a revised bumper, honeycomb grille, and striking alloy wheels. Performance Face-Off: Electric vs. Turbocharged Under the hood, the Volkswagen Polo GTI relies on a 2.0-litre turbocharged petrol engine producing 207hp, delivering a 0-62mph acceleration in 6.5 seconds. Meanwhile, the Cupra Born, representing the future of hot hatches, boasts a 204hp electric motor (or a 230hp e-Boost option), accelerating from 0-62mph in 7.0 seconds. The Born's electric motor provides instant torque, making low-speed acceleration around town a delight, despite its added weight due to the batteries. Range Matters: Cupra Born's Electric Capabilities For those still navigating the world of electric motoring, the Cupra Born offers two battery options – 58kWh and 77kWh, promising ranges of 263 to 340 miles between charges. However, real-world figures may vary based on driving conditions and temperatures. In comparison, the Volkswagen Polo GTI, with its conventional petrol engine, offers a different driving experience. Interior and Boot Space: Aesthetic and Practical Considerations Inside, the Cupra Born's minimalist interior, reminiscent of the Volkswagen ID.3, features a touchscreen infotainment system with copper accents. The Polo GTI, in contrast, presents a more traditional interior design with a smart touchscreen and physical controls. When it comes to boot space, the Cupra Born impresses with a 385-litre capacity, while the Polo GTI provides a respectable 305-litre boot. Reliability and Safety: Battle of the Volkswagen Group Siblings Both the Polo GTI and Cupra Born benefit from the high-quality manufacturing standards of the Volkswagen Group. Built on the MQB and MEB platforms respectively, these models boast tried-and-tested technologies and earned full five-star safety ratings from Euro NCAP in 2022. Final Decision: Old-School or Electric? Choosing between the Volkswagen Polo GTI and the Cupra Born involves careful consideration of personal preferences, practicality, and budget. Whether you lean towards the nostalgic appeal of a traditional hot hatch or the futuristic allure of electric motoring, each model brings its own unique charm to the table. Keep in mind your fuel type preference and access to a home charger for the electric Cupra Born, and let the showdown between past and future guide your decision!
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6N2 GTi VCDS No Response From Controller Issues
Todger182 posted a topic in Engine, Transmission and Exhaust
Having a few issues with my 6N2 GTI. Can't begin to diagnose the faults due to a no response from controller error. The list of things tried so far. Genuine VCDS and cable Clone cable and VCDS lite Removed headunit Removed clocks Disconnected ECU Disconnected ABS Checked pins 4 and 7 (getting 10v) Grounding pin 7 triggers the headlight adjusters Disconnected headlight switch and adjusters All fuses to do with ecu, clocks, and port have all been checked and replaced. The port was working, but as soon as the EML came on, it stopped talking. Anything else you can suggest to try? I have my MOT on Saturday. Thanks X -
This car has been a headache since I have got it in December. Viewed it and the only thing wrong was a seized caliper. Fine, rebuilt that caliper on a Saturday. Drove it around and realized it was only revving to 5k rpm and and sometimes would stop pulling. Read the codes, crank speed sensor and cam sensor. Replaced both of those and did the timing belt as it was due. Car started up on the button and 3 seconds later immediately started to piss out oil. Fucking rear main seal housing had a crack in it. Changed that and as we was down there did the clutch, starter and all. Put it back together, wouldn't start even tho everything is perfectly aligned. Read codes again, immobiliser issue, sent it off to get repaired (water damages) got it back and fitted it and nothing. Only code now is camshaft sensor speed/range however as far as I'm aware it shouldn't stop it starting. We have strong spark, great compression, great fuel pressure. Any ideas?
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Hello. I have 6n2 1.4 8v and I installed gti clocks. The problem is that ambient temperature on clock is not working. I have factory wire on pin 26 on green plug. I have a sensor and everything, but it's not working on the cluster. Do I have to code something with vcds?
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Hi I recently noticed that my car appeared to be reving higher than usual sitting while idling my first assumption was a sticky throttle cable as I noticed that if i lifted the accelerator pedal up it went back to its usual rpm however after having a look I'm under the impression that it is electronic rather than cable as there is a plug on the pedal. Has anyone else had the same issue and does anybody know if it would be as simple as changing the sensor that is attached to the pedal? TIA
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Polo 6N2 GTI headlights to regular 1.4 16V
Lightinfuser posted a topic in ICE, Electrical and Lighting
Greetings clubpolo community, I am currently researching the possibility of retrofiting xenon headlights from 6n2 gti to my girlfriends regular 6n2 1.4 16V. As far as I've looked up the wiring diagrams the pinouts are exactly the same between xenon and hallogen headlights. Main difference is the way the xenons are regulated (by a module that has a sensor in the back of the car). In my opinion, it's not going to be a problem to regulate the xenon headlights with the standart regulator from the dashboard, because the motors themselves are the same between xenon and hallogen headlights. All in all, my question is the following: Is it really in fact a straight plug and play (electrical wise) going from hallogen to xenon lights? Cheers. -
PLEASE HELP! Trying to wire up an active sub I just need to know which wires are for the rear speakers and which wire to tap in remote turn on wire. Does anyone have the wiring diagram/ colour codes? Cant find anything at all anywhere and dealers arent being any help. Thanks, Adam.
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hello sorry for my bad english My gti has brand new timings and it still has fault code 17927 ( camshaft adjustment - permanent ) the vehicle runs, starts, epc does not light up, still the fault exists. replacing the cam sensor with another original one did not help. I found a video on youtube where a preparation is used to stop the camshaft. Here https://youtu.be/L0mI4iS5YNQ Does anyone have the product number from the video please? Or instructions for setting the VVT timing? The cam does not have a wedge. Which screw has a left or right thread? Tightening torque? Can VVT be set without a tool?? Thank you! It’s Polo gti Arc 1.6 16v 92kw
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So i bought this car, saw it once on ebay. Rolled it backwards and forwards (in gear) said yep ill take it XD Drove it home, parked it up and waited for all the documents to catch me up. later took it for a bath and started to dig around and find out what was what. someone had taken the areal out of the wing, but not plugged the hole causing water to get in and rust the bottom of the wing, this started to spread into the passanger door but wasnt too bad and farily easiy to rub back and get rid off during paint prep. the exhuast fell off, the breaks were rusty and the car was all round rattley and banged up. MOT wasnt too bad tho, bearing and a handbreak to sort so nothing crazy. gave her a quick service, oil breaks etc and just started to have fun.
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Sat here at work bored, I can sit and read through other people's build threads all day long. So I thought it's time to make my own... not necessarily for you to read through but more for myself so I can look back and see my progress. My first car was a polo 9n3 1.4 petrol, (silver 5dr) which was originally my sister's and passed down to me. I loved it lowered it and did all the first car mods anyone else would do to it. That is what sparked my enjoyment of these cars. Eventually, I bit the bullet and bought myself a 9n3 GTI. Below are pictures from the day I bought it. I got it cheap as it had an issue or two and decently high milage. When I bought it the description was very vague and didn't mention any modifications just the fact it had a small oil leak. But it was a nicely specced car with the winter spec. (Heated seats, climatronic and headlight washers and had a few mods done to it. Such as a RAMAIR filter, eBay BOV (which was being a BOV, not a recirc), and SIA Delete. For the first week or so of owning it I was driving my IS200 around, which gave me chance to do a few things to the polo while it wasn't on the road such as, change the silly tinted headlights to my angel eye headlights off my silver polo, move the head unit and subwoofer from the silver polo across give it a general clean and service of oil, filter coolant and spark plugs and deleted the N249 and N112. Also fixed the "oil leak" it was sold with which was the rocker cover gasket. When I took the rocker cover off turns out there was no gasket just black silicon... for the sake of £5 you'd just put a gasket in surely?? I also put in a yellow polybush from powerflex in the dogbone mount as the old bushing was destroyed. 1 Week into driving the car EML... fml... what could this be. I borrowed my friends' diagnostics which brought up the code "Pressure drop between turbo and inlet manifold". I still get that code to this day and am 99% certain it's because it's got a terrible map on it as lots of research and attempts at fixing have all come down to that. As for a map I'm waiting until the car is finished mechanically to get it mapped. (No point paying for a map twice when I can just key bang it to get out of the limp mode that happens quite rarely). Anyway, wipe that it comes back shortly after. Guess I'm living with the EML... it wouldn't be a VW without it, right!? After a while of having the STUTUTUTU because of the incorrectly fitted eBay BOV, I bought a forge BOV off of a friend breaking his 1.8T and fitted it correctly and started going TSSSHHHHH instead which sounds equally as good in my opinion. For anyone fitting these, make sure you recirc as 1.8T's have to be mapped MAFless if you want to dump to atmosphere otherwise your MAF reads lower readings than it should, gets confused and will usually just stall out the car after driving a bit. I found this out the hard way... By this point I'd got all the general maintenance out the way wanted to do one or two cosmetics so I installed wiper delete from KillAllWipers, a sharkfin areal from eBay and a nice set of 6R style rear LED lights. Again found it on eBay and I had taken the wind deflectors off I personally don't like them and think cars look much cleaner without them. (Please forgive the Summer Maddness sticker, I don't know what I was thinking either...) Anyway with everything working, finally I can enjoy the car for a bit. Or so I thought I was sitting on TikTok with my car idling waiting for some of my friends to turn up when suddenly BING BING BING BING I thought oh god why's it shouting at me only to look up and see the red coolant light flashing and my temp to be up in the red. Brilliant, shut the car off and opened the bonnet as steam slowly escaped. Strange that my engine fan never kicked in. So the next mission is to see why the fan never came on. Had a look into it turned out the fan was a bit seized so time to swap it over. While doing this, (don't ask how) a friend got happy with a drill and suddenly I had a hole in my radiator... So that got replaced as well at the same time. Everything was going okay for a little while until a baby deer decided it wanted to unalive itself by running into the side of my car (all things considered I got off pretty lucky). Ignore the wheels I was borrowing a set of wheels while I sourced and fitted some winters to my set. It took out the wing mirror glass, and the wing mirror plastic trim around it dented the door slightly and dented the wing lots. Also dislodged the wing mirror mounting. Oh well, is what it is I'll eventually get it fixed. After a quick stint in hospital (completely unrelated) which left me unable to do anything with the car for a little while, I decided to order a custom-made polybushed gearbox mount (which was half the price of the vibratechnics one) which does just as good of a job. This helped reduce movement in my engine and made gear changes and acceleration that bit crisper. I also decided to take the car to a local paintless dent repair place to only repair the dents on the wing who did an awesome job of it. At this point, it was about time I got my private plate transferred and registered onto this well overdue car, as well as asking people to ignore the lack of sunstrip. (Special thanks to my wipers for taking off the previous one). After that, there was something I had been wanting for a while which was an Ultragauge. Honestly, because I love tech, IT and gadgets I love this thing and for the price, you can't beat it. I installed that and played around with it for ages till I got the configuration I wanted and ever since I've been battling with different types of sticky tape to try and keep it mounted to the dash! This was also around the time that I got a used eBay Cupra splitter off a friend, for £10, who used to have a 9n3 and had moved onto a CC. The first installation of the splitter was questionable but it eventually gets better. I also finally installed a boost gauge air vent mount (from Facebook this time, 3d printed) which was needed a long time ago. (Bonus points for looks is why it was needed) There eventually came a point where one of my mates had a head gasket tester kit and he said if I wanted to use it go ahead. I had a suspicion that my head gasket may not be intact as it had been boiled once or twice due to it overheating so easily. So I put the test kit on and went to put my new undamaged wing mirror platic on when not 10 seconds later I saw it'd turned green. I turned to my friend and said "oh it's green" and he laughed it off thinking I was joking because no way could it change that fast. No, it had changed that fast and was very very green. At this point, I had a decision to make. The options were as follows: 1. Fix the head gasket. 2. Fix the head gasket but while I'm in there, I may as well put some rods in as it'll never be easier. 3. Buy another engine with no issues, and swap it over. Fix the head gasket and forge it in my own time (money isn't exactly pouring out my ears). About a week later, I had an engine. Came with a full loom, turbo all ancillaries. I also somehow managed to come away with spare front support for a 9n3 and a 1/1 custom-made rear centre exit valence? Now was just finding the time to do the changeover. Tyres were also needed which I spent a lot of time looking into but also didn't have money to throw away so I ended up going for some Toyo Proxies TR1 (NOT T1R's they're the ditch finders) and am pleasantly surprised by them as they handle well for the price of them. They do however wear quite quickly and so I'll be looking at some semi-slicks for the front wheels for summer once I've gone through the toyos. Next stop. MOT Time. It managed to get through its MOT with a few advisories such as the D/S bottom arm deteriorated, which I replaced and drop links that were on their way out. Not too bad. I also got myself a carbon fibre gear knob because carbon fibre. Okay, so MOT is out the way, winner. Now was the time. I set about a weekend and asked some mates for some help to use their space and their hands. The engine swap was happening. In all honesty, although it's a big engine crammed into a tiny bay it wasn't all that difficult to get out, most of my bumper was quick release by this point as well so that came off quickly and easily. As the engine came out remember that polybushed dogbone bushing from earlier... yeah I had ripped that thing to pieces not ideal. This was also the best time to install the decat I'd bought off a friend so we did that at the same time (and accidentally snapped the cables to the post-cat sensor oh well). But all things considered, we started at about 12pm and finished at about 10 pm (including lots of eating, talking and just relaxing breaks) which I don't think is bad time. Or thereabouts we didn't want to go past 10 pm making noise because of the area we were in, the car fired up and the engine started sweet as a nut, it was leaking coolant from the thermostat. Oh well, that's tomorrow's job. Came back the next day, sorted the leak got the front end back together and threw it down the road. Misfiring like fuck we took the sparkplugs and coil packs from the broken engine and swapped them over and the car had never felt so fast. A few runs up and down the road were the greatest feeling ever. It also got thoroughly tested by making a trip up to Newcastle for a car meet that night and back and it went with no problems. All was well with the new engine... until 3 days later on the way to work I got a coolant light shouting at me. Felt like dejavous however this time it had leaked all its coolant out. I topped it up and carried on my way to work. Before I left work that day I checked my coolant and it still had some. Started it up annnnnd brilliant it's leaking it out of the water pump. Limped it home with a bottle of water and stopped twice at which point I ordered myself a water pump and used my other polo for a day or two. Then my friend came and helped me fit it when it arrived. Then; more problems. My car wasn't getting up to temp but the gauge was reading that it was. I've figured that my thermostat is stuck open because it was a cheap non-OEM stat. This does however counter the problem of my fans not working so it doesn't overheat unless I sit idle for a little while which doesn't happen too often. Either way, the plan is to buy a standalone temp sensor and fan controller and when the other engine goes back in it'll have a genuine thermostat put in which I have laying around but I don't want to put that in this engine when I don't care for it that much. Anyway, given that I'd put the new engine in but I didn't even bother to do an oil change on it, my friend said his ramp was free so I thought I may as well use his ramp if I could. Me and my friends all had a look underneath the car just to check everything out, I dropped all the oil out and the filter, and filled her up with 5W-40. Also took the time to reposition the splitter so it was actually on properly and looked sensible. After all the mechanical issues, I thought it was time to give the actual car some love. Gave it a proper wash and hand wax which looked great. Stuck the number plates on so they were straight and on the rear of the car I took the VW badge off and took out the greyish plastic silver backing on the badge and stuck the badge back on without it so that it was paint matched in the gaps. It's a small thing but I think looks good. (You can see a slight bit of where the metal indents inwards to hold the badge I guess but if you're not looking you barely notice.) The car came up well and the black magic colour shined like never before. I even polished the exhaust tips. A small thing I had wanted to do for a while changed the grill strip from red to another colour. My favourite car colour being VW Candy White I decided it was the only option to go with white as my accent colour on the car. I thought it looked well and different. Still agree with what I thought to this day. Next up. I knew the drop links had seen better day and the rear suspension was knocking. Time to go big or go home... I ordered myself a set of BC V1s for the car. Got them installed to a decent height (I still want to go lower) and set it to 15/30 dampening all the way round (which I still have it set at and like how it feels a lot) and oh my god did it change how the car performed. It went around corners like they were straight lines I couldn't believe how much it had changed the handling I cannot recommend these enough to anyone looking for a set of coilovers if they're wanting to handle not just lows. I went for the V1 Extra Lows (6/4kgmm) and love them. After buying them I decided I need to make a start on forging the other engine or it'll just never get done. So I rang up my friend and said "help me take the head off this engine" and we set away about it. I knew that I wanted to get the head off and away to be pressure tested and skimmed if need be, so that was my aim - getting the head off and in a position to give it to someone to sort. I'm currently waiting for a day off work to be able to take it to the engine shop I want to, but I've got the cash ready and untouched to get it done. The day after doing that I decided that the black wheels finally needed to go. I have to say I hate black wheels on cars I think they look really bad, the wheels get lost in the car and it just doesn't look good. It's something I've wanted rid of since day 1 of owning the car but I've always thought I'll just stick with them until I get a nice set of OZ Racings which are on my list along with so many other things. Anyway, I started throwing paint stripper at the black wheels hoping it would take all the black off. It was a job and a half getting the paint off. The problem was it would get the paint off in some places and then just continue through to the laquer underneath the paint and I ended up with bare alloy in some places and still some black in others. Not great but I carried on until it was all silver/alloy. Then very quickly needed to buy some spray paint because in person they looked horrendous. Now, truthfully and in complete honesty I wanted to go bronze. The paint looked like it was going to be bronze. It was not bronze it was a very shiny bright gold which I'm now fully backing as I like it. Simple enough; a few coats of grey primer, some coats of the spray paint and some coats of clear coat. Sanded back beforehand, mainly did the faces to make sure they looked good the insides were not so good, but there was also alloy corrosion to deal with. These wheels are only gonna be on the car for so long so I'm not too bothered about them. And well, that's it, for now, that's where I'm up to with the journey of this car. I've done a fair bit and I've got so so so much planned for it but it all is time and mainly money I won't share my list of to-do's but it's not a short one and will be ongoing for a while. You can always go bigger and better. But I'm pretty happy with how the car stands at the moment. I'll try to keep this forum updated with my progress as I go along but can't guarantee anything.
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Hello, so I recently purchased a Maxton splitter for my polo however I'm having to sell it because it doesn't fit as there was a mix up with communication as I was told it would fit a tsi however it doesn't. It is brand new, Maxton Design front splitter V.2 for the VW polo MK5 GTI (facelift). Brought it for £160 (that was including delivery). Selling it for £120 buyer collects or you can pay for delivery charge, live down in Sussex so if you not too far from there then collection would be easy. Still got the receipt and the original packaging for it, please get in contact with me asap! Here's the link for it - https://www.diversionstores.co.uk/products/maxton-design-front-splitter-v-2-for-volkswagen-polo-mk5-gti-facelift-2015-2017?_pos=1&_fid=f0c0910a5&_ss=c
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Need a little assistance wiring in a lock unlock switch after removing wiring. Long story short, i've removed everything door wise not thinking I will want to put a switch back in. Found a polo centre console lock unlock switch to replace the original door mounted one. However now I have no reference as to where the wires run to. Anyone able to assist? 6N2 GTi with alarm and central locking. Thanks X
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Would a cat back exhaust system off a 6n2 gti fit a 6n2 tdi
j4ffa posted a topic in Engine, Transmission and Exhaust
Hey so i have a 1.4 tdi polo and im wondering would a cat back system from a 6n2 gti fit onto mine? I believe the floor is the same shape just insure if it would connect onto the cat -
Was just wondering what peoples thoughts were of the new gti as I’m tempted having Configured one on Vw site .
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I have just placed a deposit down on a a new Polo GTi+ for October delivery and I am bit confused over a very quiet change of specification from to MY20 to MY21 versions and I can't seem to find any information on it anywhere! So my order form states the car to be a 207ps 7 speed DSG instead of what I expected to be the 200ps 6 speed DSG. And it is definitely not the face-lift version coming out in 2022 (announced June 21). Please help if anyone can provide any info. I am trying to understand why the change has taken place in respect of the gearbox and what dsg gearbox is it? I was under the impression that the 7 speed was a wet clutch dsg more suited for the lower power output models I believe rated to 250nm? If anyone has experience of the 21 polo gti 7 speed dsg, is it a better box? And the big question, why was it changed? Were there any issues with the previous 6 speed in the polo gti from 2018 to 2020? Thanks in advance
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In the middle of working out some wiring for my lupo conversion. Have a full Polo GTi. I'm trying to work out removing the central locking pump and wiring the car to run the lupo/golf electric motor door locks. Going from the schematics, only guessing here but. The pump on the polo is the relay and antenna, not the CCM? The only thing the CCM see's is "Are the doors open or closed". Is that correct? Thanks X
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gearbox Some gearbox questions for my 6N2 GTI
rickvipe posted a topic in Engine, Transmission and Exhaust
Hello everyone. It's been a while since last time I came here looking for solutions for my 2000 6N2 GTI gearbox. Basically, at the moment I have my Polo at the mechanic for an engine rebuild, I also decided to take apart the gearbox that I'm currently running at, a 085 DKG gearbox from a 1.0 6n as I made a little crack in the housing near to the mount days before the rebuild. The gearbox is very short ratio, it is fun in the mountains but quite annoying on motorways. So I thought about changing the final drive of the actual box to a diff/ pinion from a 1.4 engine, so it can get a little bit longer but not as long as the GTI that comes from factory. Until here it's been clear for me, the solution is simple, as I only need to get another final drive and put it on the one I have currently. Once my Polo is already being all opened up, I thought about getting rid of that sloppy shifter. I had in mind to get a OEM shifter from a mk4 golf, Bora, a3, ibiza and so on, but I'm not sure if it would be a direct fit to the 085 box I have on my Polo. My girlfriend has a Lupo GTI and the shifter feels precise and solid and I'd like to have the same feeling on mine. The questions are... Could I get a 02T housing and fit all the gears from my 085 in it? to get a shifter from these series ? Are 02T boxes a direct fit to my car? If not, can I just get a shifter and fit it directly on my085 box? Any suggestions and ideas are welcome, I've been doing my research for weeks about gear ratios, combining available parts and compatibility with what I have and what I want to get, so I'm getting confused at this point 😅 Kind regards from overseas, Lisbon Portugal :) -
1999 Polo GTi 6n2. Front wiper fuse blown.....Weird ?.
MalcB posted a topic in ICE, Electrical and Lighting
A few weeks ago the front wiper fuse blew. Put a new one in and all was ok until last weekend when it blew again with the wipers half way across. Put a new fuse in but wipers didn’t work. However, with the fuse in place the ignition was live and the engine kept running even after I took the key out. Pulled the fuse and the engine stopped. Just taken the wiper assembly out and that is working fine on a 12 v supply. Had a spare assembly I bought on eBay and tried that in place. Still no joy. Any ideas please? Relay ? Switch?