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Found 5 results

  1. Not actually asking for help. More of a brag. MOT time and the twin Dellorto DHLA 40's passed with no tweaks. Nice and steady 900rpm idle. 0.668% CO which is ~14.22:1 AFR according to https://www.mgexp.com/article/co-to-air-fuel-ratio-afr-table.149 The AEM wideband unhelpfully displays about 14.8 AFR for that. This is 44 idles in .3 holders in 31mm chokes using the idle air bleed circuit for balance. I had to go richer idle holder because of E5 petrol. The HC (unburnt) is tolerable with low vacuum from twin carbs and electronic ignition advanced a lot. In other news, the floor pan needs some welding, so a Fail.
  2. Hi guys, my 1.6 16v has developed a poor running issue when cold. Through the winter on particularly cold mornings the car wouldn't start as quickly as you would expect and on a couple of occasions I had to turn the key back to 'zero' and try again. I'm not sure if this is related to what I'm continuing to experience but thought I'd mention it in case it's relevant. Now that the weather is warmer the car will run a bit rough at first and has a noticeable lack of power low down but the symptoms clear up fairly quickly. When pulling away from the junction at the end of my street the car will really drag it's heels below 2,500RPM(ish) in second. After work today I sat in the car using my phone while it idled and noticed that as soon as it dropped down from the cold idle RPM to the warm idle RPM (thermostat opening up?) it smoothed right out and the power was normal when driving off. The symptoms aren't always as severe after every cold start however, some days are worse than others. Typically I'd assume a rough idle was an ignition coil problem, or a faltering fuel pump with the low power but with the symptoms going away once the engine has a bit of heat in it has me a bit lost on how to further diagnose the problem.
  3. Recently replaced the alternator and took the throttle body off to clean it as i was getting sticking. Put it all back together and now the car wont idle it just dies. Will start first turn of the key and run for a few minutes until temps rise on the guage and then the choke kicks off and it dies. Things i have checked so far- -Alternator/battery steady 14v when running -Air leaks- cant identify any obviously -Grounds all seem fine , cleaned up and refitted. -The chamber inside the throttle body for when the butterflys are closed is clean-- however cant find info on idle screw setting. - new coolant temp sensors, both blue and black on front right of engine. Any comments and advice welcome.
  4. Okay, so I own a 16-valver for about a year now. When I got the car it was idling fine, but after a few days after releasing the throttle it would do the common problem of idling hunting from 1300-2000 rpm. Disconected the battery terminals several times, until one time It started normally and was hunting from 1000-1100rpm. After a few miles I noticed that when I stopped completely it would idle at 900rpm. And that was it, within a matter of days the hunting was completely gone and the car would always idle perfectly. Fast forward a few months and the problem started again, but much much worse. It would do the usual of not idling correctly but would not fix itshelf by just disconecting the battery. I started digging and to date I have done the following. Changed the distributor, changed the temp sender, cleaned throttle body, blanked off the egr, replaced all the vacuum hoses, changed spark plugs, tried a different throttle body, (Mine is 036133064E and the replacement was 036133064J) changed the MAP sensor, (although I am not sure if i got the correct one), Checked for continuity between different sensors and the ecu plug. Results are: Temp sender: Three out of four wires have continuity to the ecu pins The fourth one i pressume goes to the dash(?). MAP sensor: All of the wires have continuity to the ECU, however one wire has continuity to 2 different pins of the ecu, could not find continuity beetween the sensor's pins and ground. Also when the ignition is on the 2 middle wires have +5v After all this, the car is still hunting, but less, (1300-1400rpm) and when I stop completely it idles at 1100rpm and not hunting. BUT after all this the car is no longer running as it was. It has doubled in fuel consumption and the plugs come out dark indicating it is running rich. Also there a noticable power loss overal, but the most frustrating thing is that off the line the car is chocking even at full throttle until i pass the 2000rpm mark. Vag com ruturns ABS faults (Bad ABS module) and throttle position sensor error but this can be attributed to running the car without the TPS plug for testing. I tried running the car without the o2 sensor, nothing changes. Today as i was messing arround i unpluged the TPS plug and the MAP plug. The car was idling perfectly, but as soon as i opened the throttle it would choke and die since it has no idea how much air is going in. I believe the problem can be traced to bad wiring or bad TPS sensor in the throttle body. What should I try next? Does the wiring sound right to you? Any ideas are more than welcome.
  5. Hello. So I have an ABD with GT fueling/ignition I've put back together and it just won't idle. Happens whether the engines hot or cold. I can hold the throttle down and have it at 1500-2000 rpm but any lower and it'll just bog down and die with throttle still open, unless I blip the throttle and hold it at 2000 again to save it. This has allowed me to set the base timing atleast. When I go to set the idle I can't lower the rpm close enough as it'll bog down and cut out so I've held it at 1500 rpm to try that way but the idle screw doesn't seem to be doing anything no matter how far it's adjusted. When I unplug the blue coolant sensor it bogs down and dies unless I hold the revs up high at the same time, I can lower back down to 1500-2000 once unplugged. I had it timed and idling with no exhaust on the other month but forgot to save the settings. Only change has been putting the exhaust on post lambda. Crank and cam cover breathers vent to air right now. Vacuum for fuel pressure reg to side of throttle body is fine, others are disconnected and blocked off. New gaskets on intake, throttle body, exhaust and head. Timing marks line up. Tried two dizzys - 030 905 205 AB and the other AE. Two different AFMs I'll be trying a new blue sensor when the shops open on Monday but I'm not confident this is the issue. Slightly worried about cylinder no.1 valve + piston though it could be the MAF flap from back fire or something else knocking. Only happens sometimes and I assume valve contact would be a constant noise? There is more to this story but it's already a long read so any questions please fire away and any suggestions would be appreciated.
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