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Found 13 results

  1. Hi there i recently took my gt throttle body apart and totally stripped it to clean it and now when I start the car it will start no bother and idle high on auto choke until it kicks off and then it won't idle normally, do I need to set the idle screw on the throttle body or something else causing it to do this? Forgot to say it revs etc fine just wont tick over just cuts out and starts straight away again and doenst idle 🙄
  2. Hi, just installed a new Weber DMTL using a kit (from fastroadcars). Standard jets, which according to the topics I've read should be fairly ok for this OK. Not getting any idle, with the choke pulled out all the way it surges up to 3k and almost stalls, then back again. Had a little fiddle with the idle mixture adjustment screw, not doing much. The rubber flange (?) on the inlet/base of the carb is pretty crusty. I'm thinking that's a possible culprit. Does anyone have any other ideas or things to try?
  3. I've been busy after buying my '93 Mk2f 1.3 (SPI) polo giving it a full service and replacing any old or duff parts. The thing was running like hot garbage when I bought it but now is running great and doing just shy of 50mpg on a proper run. However... When starting cold it misfires on one cylinder, clearing up and idling properly when it warms up a bit (i.e. not ~90 degrees, just when its a bit warmer so still in the temperature-controlled fuelling schedule). This problem went away totally when the plugs and leads were changed a few hundred miles ago - it started on a dime and idled correctly from cold. However slowly but surely the misfire has crept back - its not a dealbreaker as it runs perfectly within a few minutes but all that chug-chug-chugging in the morning is quite frustrating! Things I've tried: * Cleaned the throttle body - no change to the misfire but picks up better once its warm * Plugs and leads are new, as is the distributor cap and rotor * Ignition timing 5 degrees before TDC, checked with a timing light - again a positive change here * Fuel filter new just before i bought it in November * New blue temp sensor - not OEM (Hella) but made no difference. * Checked for air leaks around the inlet manifold - none found and unlikely the cause because it runs great once warmed up? Also checked vaccum leaks and everything is airtight. Has anyone had this kind of cold misfire and found a solution outside of anything major? I know its Cylinder 1 from pulling leads when its misbehaving. Why should brand new plugs cure it temporarily? Could it be a dodgy tappet for cylinder 1? There's no excessively bad tappet noise but if one is taking extra long to puff up with oil could it be messing up the firing until it does?
  4. Hi all, my 1.4 8v polo (AEX) is having some odd issues, they’re not much of a problem at the moment but want to nip anything in the bud. 90% of the time it idles fine but occasionally it’ll idle at a noticeable higher speed for 10-20 seconds and then drop down to a near stall before stabilising again. Recently I’ve also noticed that sometimes if I stall the car it’ll be very sluggish to start again, struggling at about 500rpm until I give it some throttle, it’ll run fine again after that. I’m wondering if this has anything to do with the temp sensor? It seems to heat up fine and show on the gauge but the gauge has never, ever moved past about 90, even on 5+ hour motorway trips. my other thought was the PCV valve? I often get a very oily petrol smell when stationary with the blowers on, and there’s a fair coating of oil in the air box.(level has never noticeably dropped while I’ve owned the car however) Any idea what I can do to test all these, should I even be worried? Cheers
  5. Can someone please help me? yesterday after i started my polo it ran fine till i started to drive and it would not idle. I had to keep starting and rev the engine to make it home. i pulled carbs out and cleaned carbs and changed air filter. No Change! i start it up and it warms up and idles, once i tap gas it just stalls. In the past i had a problem when i was coming to a stop and put car in neutral it would stall after long drive to work. not sure if that was a sign of the same problem just worse now. Can anybody help me please? is it an idle screw problem? etc.......
  6. Hi all easy one for you I hope. What should a mk2f GT idle at ?
  7. Hello everyone! I've had quite the adventure in the past two years driving this car. It's quite the old car, but I kind of like the character these have. Problems pop up, and go away over time, most of them ignorable, but this one was a nasty surprise. I drive 1995 Ibiza 6K with a 1.4 8v ABD. I know, I know, it's not a Polo 6N but they're very similar so I was hoping if someone would help me here. All of the other SEAT-related forums seem to be just related to the newest cars or just downright dead. No help whatsoever. :/ I once again apologize for it not being a Polo, I just can't find anyone with this specific problem. What happened prior to the problem: The other day, the weather is damp, and the car started oscillating it's revs in a rhythmic way between 750 and 1200 rpm (idle and warm up revs), it is about to stall, but then it gives itself some throttle and goes to 1200 but then stalls to about 750 and throttles itself again until I intervene with a quick blip of the throttle and it goes away. It was odd, and enough to get my attention. After about a month, I decided to reset my ECU, so I disconnect the battery overnight and after 24 hrs I reconnect it and start the car. I let it run and it got down to 750. 10 minutes later, down the road, I stop my car at a stoplight, and it starts oscillating again, I blip the throttle, and it just revs itself to redline! It does not take any throttle input anymore, and I just cut the ignition. I start it up again, and it revs itself again to redline. I was afraid to dump the clutch to see if it would keep going, but I pushed the car to the side of the road and tried to see what was going on. The mechanic replaces the throttle actuator, and it went away for 15 minutes. Second replacement, 600RPM and it was away for 10 minutes, then the 3rd one was okay for 3 weeks. Now, I was having some short-lived fun, where I used full throttle, the car pulled no problem from 2000rpm to 5000rpm. And 2 minutes after that, at a carpark it's idle went from 750 to 1000, and when I tried parking, it again went to redline, same problem, whatever I try (it was wet outside again). When I turn the ignition on, the butterfly valve is wide open, is it supposed to be like that? I've searched high and low for answers, from one forum to the next, 2003 to 2015, I've learned how Monomotronic/Jetronic is supposed to work, what inputs it takes in, how it operates and whatnot. My mechanic has a parts car, so I can get replacements right away, I just don't want to burn a hole in my pocket (it's charred as it is :/) The car sits for 3-5 hrs and the problem goes away, but I'm afraid to make any longer journey in it. Can the actuator even push the throttle body all the way to wide-open? Could the ECU be knackered? I understand that all it takes is a small short circuit between the contacts on the ECU and the actuator goes out all the way, but W.O.T.? No way. I'm lucky it's not an automatic. If anyone can help me narrow down the possible problems, I would be very grateful! I have heaps more info I got from observation research of the car, but no-one had a W.O.T. problem like I do. P.S. The MPG was usually 26, but during winter it drops to 14. Any help with that would be good as well!
  8. Hi I've had this car for 10 years, daily driver. I was told 10 years ago I have low oil pressure. I was advised to : 1) not idle at hot for a long time 2) change oil 2x yearly. Been doing as advised and car has been ok otherwise..... and always every 6 months I change the oil+filter (10w40)..... just as the low oil pressure light starts to flicker after 45mins driving. Yesterday I bought an oil pressure tester (manometer + hose + M10x1) and have now finally tested it myself at hot. Haynes says 2000rpm at hot = 2 bars. I have 2000rpm at hot = 0.83bars (12.5psi) I will do another change next weekend - of course. Thinking also about: 1) taking sump off again and cleaning pickup tube, clean oil pump, check backlash. (cleaned sump + pickup 6 years ago!) 2) changing big end bearings (conrodsx4) for new ones (same size as current) 3) ...leaving as is, until the whole car dies.... (just got new MOT for next 2yrs ) (not in UK!) 4) dunno? any ideas to get the pressure up magically? many thanks Phil
  9. I put in a new mount a few weeks ago and she ran fine. Then I was replacing a rad hose and today driving her she was fine but kept stalling when idling, off the throttle, even in 3rd gear at 30. Pulling up to junctions you have to keep the gas on or restart the engine. What could be wrong?
  10. hi guys, new here, bought my other half a rather loverly 2006 VW polo 1.2, loverly car, and a dam decent first car if you ask me! bought it from a mechanic friend who had recently rebuild the head with the polo GTI valves as it had suffered from the dreaded valve cracking symptom, all valves were replaced with the much better ones, he also replaced the timing chain, all gaskets and seals and all the oils and lubricants you can imagine, proper decent bloke, I bought it for what it cost him to rebuild the thing! only has 68k on the clock! anyway! drove it 270 miles home completely fault free and only used half a tank (result!) handed it over to my other half which you can expect she was bouncing off the walls (passed her test last week) and she clocked up another 300 miles in 3 days! unfortunatly it then developed a intermittent fault, the fault only occurs when the car is fully at temperature, and won't always happen, but when it does it's only at idle and it has to have been idling for at least 30 seconds to a min, it will then bring the engine warning light up and have a rough idle, cars shaking around, and goes into "get me home mode" the fault can be rectified by turning the car off and back on again, no issues restarting it ever, the engine warning code is only ever missfire on cylinder 3, as this is her first car I'm not messing around with parts, I have ordered 3 new coil packs (went with the upgraded ones from ebay, the blue ones?) took the spark plugs out and all 3 have a thin layer of white power on them (believe this indicates the combustion cycle is to hot) any pointers or things you guys know could cause this? car drives loverly with no hesitations even after you turn it off and on again after the fault
  11. Hello, cutting a a long story short, my car (Mk2f AAV) hasn't idled or drive right for some time, so changed fuel filter, spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor, new leads, oil filter, blue temp sensor and it go no better. my local mechanic ran it through diagnostic and it just told him the air/ fuel mixture was all over the place, however it didn't tell him anything specific. He's recommended I take it to a specialist. So, has anyone come across anything similar to this? Before I take it to my nearest specialist cheers jono
  12. Hi all, New to the forum so go easy! Looking for some help. After wanting one for a long time I acquired a Mk2 1.3L CL. The car looks great and I've already fallen in love with it. However I've noticed what I am hoping isn't a massive problem. In the morning the car starts perfectly and idles nicely. However after about 15/20 mins driving the car turns into a bit of a juddering mess. It doesn't idle well and has stalled a couple of times, at lights/roundabouts etc. I'm quite technical but I know very little about cars. I have had a good look online but everyone might as well be talking a different language. I have checked what I know how to do, air filter and oil. Both are good. Seen a few people suggest pushing down on the air filter housing to check if it could be the carb mount/gasket. This doesn't help. I have noticed one thing however which I figure must be helpful. If I stick the headlights on the idle gets 10X worse. Could I have an electrical problem. The previous owner said the two inner lights have been replaced. Could it be something as simple as HT leads? Distributor? Or the huge hole in the hot air pipe? Hope the pics might help?! Thank you, Josh.
  13. Bonjour, disclaimer - I have limited knowledge of mechanics, but only one way to learn. recently gave the 1.3 aav a service and since I've done it it's been running too rich, the idle is rough and the exhaust is making a puffing sound. It does this from cold and continues when upto to temperature. Where is the first place I should start looking? and is there any other things I should be checking? thank you in advance jono
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