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Found 26 results

  1. Hi, just installed a new Weber DMTL using a kit (from fastroadcars). Standard jets, which according to the topics I've read should be fairly ok for this OK. Not getting any idle, with the choke pulled out all the way it surges up to 3k and almost stalls, then back again. Had a little fiddle with the idle mixture adjustment screw, not doing much. The rubber flange (?) on the inlet/base of the carb is pretty crusty. I'm thinking that's a possible culprit. Does anyone have any other ideas or things to try?
  2. I've been busy after buying my '93 Mk2f 1.3 (SPI) polo giving it a full service and replacing any old or duff parts. The thing was running like hot garbage when I bought it but now is running great and doing just shy of 50mpg on a proper run. However... When starting cold it misfires on one cylinder, clearing up and idling properly when it warms up a bit (i.e. not ~90 degrees, just when its a bit warmer so still in the temperature-controlled fuelling schedule). This problem went away totally when the plugs and leads were changed a few hundred miles ago - it started on a dime and idled correctly from cold. However slowly but surely the misfire has crept back - its not a dealbreaker as it runs perfectly within a few minutes but all that chug-chug-chugging in the morning is quite frustrating! Things I've tried: * Cleaned the throttle body - no change to the misfire but picks up better once its warm * Plugs and leads are new, as is the distributor cap and rotor * Ignition timing 5 degrees before TDC, checked with a timing light - again a positive change here * Fuel filter new just before i bought it in November * New blue temp sensor - not OEM (Hella) but made no difference. * Checked for air leaks around the inlet manifold - none found and unlikely the cause because it runs great once warmed up? Also checked vaccum leaks and everything is airtight. Has anyone had this kind of cold misfire and found a solution outside of anything major? I know its Cylinder 1 from pulling leads when its misbehaving. Why should brand new plugs cure it temporarily? Could it be a dodgy tappet for cylinder 1? There's no excessively bad tappet noise but if one is taking extra long to puff up with oil could it be messing up the firing until it does?
  3. Hi all, my 1.4 8v polo (AEX) is having some odd issues, they’re not much of a problem at the moment but want to nip anything in the bud. 90% of the time it idles fine but occasionally it’ll idle at a noticeable higher speed for 10-20 seconds and then drop down to a near stall before stabilising again. Recently I’ve also noticed that sometimes if I stall the car it’ll be very sluggish to start again, struggling at about 500rpm until I give it some throttle, it’ll run fine again after that. I’m wondering if this has anything to do with the temp sensor? It seems to heat up fine and show on the gauge but the gauge has never, ever moved past about 90, even on 5+ hour motorway trips. my other thought was the PCV valve? I often get a very oily petrol smell when stationary with the blowers on, and there’s a fair coating of oil in the air box.(level has never noticeably dropped while I’ve owned the car however) Any idea what I can do to test all these, should I even be worried? Cheers
  4. Can someone please help me? yesterday after i started my polo it ran fine till i started to drive and it would not idle. I had to keep starting and rev the engine to make it home. i pulled carbs out and cleaned carbs and changed air filter. No Change! i start it up and it warms up and idles, once i tap gas it just stalls. In the past i had a problem when i was coming to a stop and put car in neutral it would stall after long drive to work. not sure if that was a sign of the same problem just worse now. Can anybody help me please? is it an idle screw problem? etc.......
  5. Hi all easy one for you I hope. What should a mk2f GT idle at ?
  6. Hello everyone! I've had quite the adventure in the past two years driving this car. It's quite the old car, but I kind of like the character these have. Problems pop up, and go away over time, most of them ignorable, but this one was a nasty surprise. I drive 1995 Ibiza 6K with a 1.4 8v ABD. I know, I know, it's not a Polo 6N but they're very similar so I was hoping if someone would help me here. All of the other SEAT-related forums seem to be just related to the newest cars or just downright dead. No help whatsoever. :/ I once again apologize for it not being a Polo, I just can't find anyone with this specific problem. What happened prior to the problem: The other day, the weather is damp, and the car started oscillating it's revs in a rhythmic way between 750 and 1200 rpm (idle and warm up revs), it is about to stall, but then it gives itself some throttle and goes to 1200 but then stalls to about 750 and throttles itself again until I intervene with a quick blip of the throttle and it goes away. It was odd, and enough to get my attention. After about a month, I decided to reset my ECU, so I disconnect the battery overnight and after 24 hrs I reconnect it and start the car. I let it run and it got down to 750. 10 minutes later, down the road, I stop my car at a stoplight, and it starts oscillating again, I blip the throttle, and it just revs itself to redline! It does not take any throttle input anymore, and I just cut the ignition. I start it up again, and it revs itself again to redline. I was afraid to dump the clutch to see if it would keep going, but I pushed the car to the side of the road and tried to see what was going on. The mechanic replaces the throttle actuator, and it went away for 15 minutes. Second replacement, 600RPM and it was away for 10 minutes, then the 3rd one was okay for 3 weeks. Now, I was having some short-lived fun, where I used full throttle, the car pulled no problem from 2000rpm to 5000rpm. And 2 minutes after that, at a carpark it's idle went from 750 to 1000, and when I tried parking, it again went to redline, same problem, whatever I try (it was wet outside again). When I turn the ignition on, the butterfly valve is wide open, is it supposed to be like that? I've searched high and low for answers, from one forum to the next, 2003 to 2015, I've learned how Monomotronic/Jetronic is supposed to work, what inputs it takes in, how it operates and whatnot. My mechanic has a parts car, so I can get replacements right away, I just don't want to burn a hole in my pocket (it's charred as it is :/) The car sits for 3-5 hrs and the problem goes away, but I'm afraid to make any longer journey in it. Can the actuator even push the throttle body all the way to wide-open? Could the ECU be knackered? I understand that all it takes is a small short circuit between the contacts on the ECU and the actuator goes out all the way, but W.O.T.? No way. I'm lucky it's not an automatic. If anyone can help me narrow down the possible problems, I would be very grateful! I have heaps more info I got from observation research of the car, but no-one had a W.O.T. problem like I do. P.S. The MPG was usually 26, but during winter it drops to 14. Any help with that would be good as well!
  7. Hi I've had this car for 10 years, daily driver. I was told 10 years ago I have low oil pressure. I was advised to : 1) not idle at hot for a long time 2) change oil 2x yearly. Been doing as advised and car has been ok otherwise..... and always every 6 months I change the oil+filter (10w40)..... just as the low oil pressure light starts to flicker after 45mins driving. Yesterday I bought an oil pressure tester (manometer + hose + M10x1) and have now finally tested it myself at hot. Haynes says 2000rpm at hot = 2 bars. I have 2000rpm at hot = 0.83bars (12.5psi) I will do another change next weekend - of course. Thinking also about: 1) taking sump off again and cleaning pickup tube, clean oil pump, check backlash. (cleaned sump + pickup 6 years ago!) 2) changing big end bearings (conrodsx4) for new ones (same size as current) 3) ...leaving as is, until the whole car dies.... (just got new MOT for next 2yrs ) (not in UK!) 4) dunno? any ideas to get the pressure up magically? many thanks Phil
  8. I put in a new mount a few weeks ago and she ran fine. Then I was replacing a rad hose and today driving her she was fine but kept stalling when idling, off the throttle, even in 3rd gear at 30. Pulling up to junctions you have to keep the gas on or restart the engine. What could be wrong?
  9. hi guys, new here, bought my other half a rather loverly 2006 VW polo 1.2, loverly car, and a dam decent first car if you ask me! bought it from a mechanic friend who had recently rebuild the head with the polo GTI valves as it had suffered from the dreaded valve cracking symptom, all valves were replaced with the much better ones, he also replaced the timing chain, all gaskets and seals and all the oils and lubricants you can imagine, proper decent bloke, I bought it for what it cost him to rebuild the thing! only has 68k on the clock! anyway! drove it 270 miles home completely fault free and only used half a tank (result!) handed it over to my other half which you can expect she was bouncing off the walls (passed her test last week) and she clocked up another 300 miles in 3 days! unfortunatly it then developed a intermittent fault, the fault only occurs when the car is fully at temperature, and won't always happen, but when it does it's only at idle and it has to have been idling for at least 30 seconds to a min, it will then bring the engine warning light up and have a rough idle, cars shaking around, and goes into "get me home mode" the fault can be rectified by turning the car off and back on again, no issues restarting it ever, the engine warning code is only ever missfire on cylinder 3, as this is her first car I'm not messing around with parts, I have ordered 3 new coil packs (went with the upgraded ones from ebay, the blue ones?) took the spark plugs out and all 3 have a thin layer of white power on them (believe this indicates the combustion cycle is to hot) any pointers or things you guys know could cause this? car drives loverly with no hesitations even after you turn it off and on again after the fault
  10. Hello, cutting a a long story short, my car (Mk2f AAV) hasn't idled or drive right for some time, so changed fuel filter, spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor, new leads, oil filter, blue temp sensor and it go no better. my local mechanic ran it through diagnostic and it just told him the air/ fuel mixture was all over the place, however it didn't tell him anything specific. He's recommended I take it to a specialist. So, has anyone come across anything similar to this? Before I take it to my nearest specialist cheers jono
  11. Hi all, New to the forum so go easy! Looking for some help. After wanting one for a long time I acquired a Mk2 1.3L CL. The car looks great and I've already fallen in love with it. However I've noticed what I am hoping isn't a massive problem. In the morning the car starts perfectly and idles nicely. However after about 15/20 mins driving the car turns into a bit of a juddering mess. It doesn't idle well and has stalled a couple of times, at lights/roundabouts etc. I'm quite technical but I know very little about cars. I have had a good look online but everyone might as well be talking a different language. I have checked what I know how to do, air filter and oil. Both are good. Seen a few people suggest pushing down on the air filter housing to check if it could be the carb mount/gasket. This doesn't help. I have noticed one thing however which I figure must be helpful. If I stick the headlights on the idle gets 10X worse. Could I have an electrical problem. The previous owner said the two inner lights have been replaced. Could it be something as simple as HT leads? Distributor? Or the huge hole in the hot air pipe? Hope the pics might help?! Thank you, Josh.
  12. Bonjour, disclaimer - I have limited knowledge of mechanics, but only one way to learn. recently gave the 1.3 aav a service and since I've done it it's been running too rich, the idle is rough and the exhaust is making a puffing sound. It does this from cold and continues when upto to temperature. Where is the first place I should start looking? and is there any other things I should be checking? thank you in advance jono
  13. Help!!! Hi all, purchased a mk2 1989 Breadvan a few weeks ago as a rolling project for my 2 sons. Great little car in nice condition and it was running like a little sewing machine until this weekend. I filled up at the local garage and 3 miles later the kangarooing started. It idles fine but has a dead spot as you take off in first, has stalled unless you floor the accelerator, and then is very jumpy up through the gears. It runs better at speed in 4th gear but is rough everywhere else. Ive checked the plugs and they look nice and clean, all leads are ok too. I'm thinking crap in the fuel lines, filter and/or pump and maybe blocked jets in the carb. Any advice before I begin to strip things out appreciated. cheers.
  14. So here's my polo again up here with another problem :( Okay been a few days since it's happened so far we've cleaned out the carbs and fuel lines seem to be okay (getting a new fuel filter soon) but when I drive it it just seem to choke with no power at all like its stalling out At idle it's fine runs fine but when you Rev up it builds up but if you keep your foot down it dies out making you take your foot off to stop it from stalling So it sounds like lack of fuel but I'm not to sure as this is my first car I've gone in depth with such as the engine change So if anyone of you polo guys can help it would mean a lot Thanks
  15. Hello, I recorded this video from my Polo's engine noise issue. This metallic rattling or knocking sound, whatever you like to call it, has been growing over long period of time. Nowadays it is really clear and my guess is that it is coming from the timing chain. Few years back when it wasn't so clear and metallic I thought that it might be coming from the auxiliary belt and its pulleys but that was not the case. It clearly comes from the belt side of the engine as viewed in the video. When the engine is revved the noise seems to dissapear and engine runs smoothly without any additional noise. This fault does not affect the engine performance in any ways. I'm still afraid that the noise is prelude to something bad and it should be better off repaired. What I have observed from the threads and videos about notorious TSI chain tensioner issue is that the noise will be worse when engine is revved. My Polo does not do that. So I don't really know if it really is timing chain related. It is such a labour intensive task to change chain related parts that I wouldn't like to do that without being sure about it. Please check out the video link below and tell me what you think. https://youtu.be/B2tbTCTY6Lo
  16. I'm after a little help if anyone could give some advice it would be appreciated! I have an 86 breadvan 1.0 and when i start it from cold it runs super lumpy and rough and before i go anywhere i have to sit for 10 minutes or so with my foot on the accelerator to stop it cutting out, it smells really fumey too and cuts out at junctions when i have to stop/slow down... when its warmed up its not AS bad but when stood still the engine revs up and down slightly..any ideas? I've cleaned a couple of the accessable from the top of the carb too but no joy!
  17. Polo 6N -98 1,6 AEE Hello! I'm having a problem where I have no Idle until my car is on normal temp but it only works for about 15 seconds from time to time then the engine stalls, and also my car wont start if i'm not pushing down the throttle pedal. This all happened after an electrical failure in my left hand side aftermarket headlight with crappy connectors. When i turned on the ignition all the lightning in my left hand side headlight was emitting light but very dim or low (low beam, high beam, parking light & angeleyes) so instead of turning it of i started to switch between different lighting setups (like low beam, parking lights only etc.) and on parking lights only it worked perfectly but as i switched to fullbeam my auxillary lamps wouldn't turn off, so i guess there was a short curcuit somewhere... however, as I tried to turn the engine on it just wouldn't start. The starter motor rotates, the engine rotates but it does sound like it's fairl easy to pull around and sometimes it sounds like it wants to starts so badly, like one or two cylinder/s actually ignites. VagCom returns me an error code for Idle motor/regulator so i replaced the throttlebody to a used one just now and I still have the same problem. I did however loosen the hose for the canister purge solenoid valve and then it started and idled normally but I don't think that's the problem. When you start it with the throttle pedal down and keep it at about 1000 rpm you can actually feel a vibration coming from the throttle body itself. Could actually feel it when i reved it by hand from the engine bay too. It comes from the butterfly/throttle When you turn the key to "ON" the throttlebody emitts a dim beeping noise for about 4 seconds and the butterfly makes a clicking noise both at the start and the end of the beeping sequence. The question is... Is there something else than the throttle body that controlls the engine idle? Have I completely toasted the ECU? PS. I did also have an error code on the Oxygen sensor and MAP-Sensor saying singal Intermittent but they did not return as the Idle one did after deletion.
  18. Hi everyone, I'm new to the forum and this is my first post so I apologise for any discrepancies in advance. I drive a 51 plate, Polo 9N, 1.2 three-cylinder, AZQ engine code with 120k miles on the clock. Recently my polo has developed a problem when idling which at first appeared to be intermittent although now has become constant. normally idling at around 8-900 rpm, the rpm would "dip" to around 500 rpm sounding as if the engine was about to stall, at which point the idle would erratically increase to around 1000-1100 rpm and then stabilise again at the norm. This occurs a couple times a minute. Also, my clutch is soon to be on the way out and the clutch bearing makes a huge racket, although when I press the clutch down, the noise goes away and the idle "dips" seem to be less frequent, could there be any connection between the two? Furthermore, I've recently changed the throttle body for another from a scrapy and also bought a new temp sensor as I know that they are a common issue. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Best regards, Yuri
  19. Hey, Posts have already been made about this problem but I'm really desperate. My Polo (53 plate) keeps stalling and cutting out when the clutch is pushed down (released). It struggles to start in the morning too. The idle RpM seems to be really low around 700. I have replaced the throttle body, cleaned it and the intake below the TB. I have replaced the coolant temperature sensor, and disconnected the battery for 16hours to try and reset the ECU. NON OF THIS HAS WORKED (not even helped!) Can anyone please help?? I've got no ideas left :( I've uploaded a video to of it cutting out:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iyhd9LBAPgU Idel photo: http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g393/LukeTabasco/20150130_185429.jpg P.s its going to the VW dealership next week to have a diagnostic test and have the ECU reset properly. Thanks Luke
  20. Hi, Polo 1993 1.0l CAT There is an unusual(?) Idle Control Valve. It uses a DC motor (not a stepper motor) and a pair of contacts. It seems two of the pins are attached directly to the DC motor and two pins for the contacts. I'm guessing the contacts are used to put the controller in to the start position, any one know if this is true? Any idea how to drive one of these without killing the DC motor by driving it against an end stop? This part is being fitted to a DIY project and I'd like to be able to control the valve from a micro or directly from passives. It wont be connected to the Bosch controller. Thanks in advance, Keith
  21. Ok guys so I have run into quite the issue with my 98 1.0L polo. When trying to climb a steep hill the other day she just lost power and wouldn't climb. After a second attempt I backed down the hill and she began sputtering and not idling properly. I turned the engine off and let is be for a moment and then fired her back up. Started fine but was idling a bit off when I gave it some gas to rev it up it actually cut out more but then would eventually rev back up. After a bit more time she would not move at all and would barely stay on. Starting up then sputtering out. I had the fuel pump relay checked and it was all good and the engine VAGCOM comes back with no fault codes. To me it seems like the fuel pump is failing and sometimes I am not hearing it kick on when I try and start it up. If you tap on the top of the pump housing when starting it will kick on and idle but as soon as you give it gas it seems staved for fuel and will sputter out and die. Am I right in thinking that my fuel pump is going out or failing or do you think that something else might be going on? An idea and help would be appreciate thanks
  22. DuranCummins2

    Engine Problems

    I have a Volkswagen Polo 6n2 1.4 16v (First Car) since buying the car it has always hunted for revs at idle, a few months ago the exhaust system light came on the dash, it was found to be a faulty lambda sensor and was changed due to the vehicle still being under warranty. Just recently the car struggles really badly to start after a short journey (once the engine has heated up) but starts perfectly when cold. A few weeks after being replaced and the car now being out of warranty the exhaust system light has come on again, I plugged the diagnostic kit in which came back with "running lean bank 1" which is pre cat right? Anyway I have left this as I cannot afford a new lambda sensor plus I cannot see why the lambda sensor would cause the vehicle to hunt while at idle and the car runs perfect once it starts. I then began to investigate the rough idle, i checked the vacuum hose for leaks by spraying brake cleaner over them and listening for a change in idle...nothing, I then decided to take out my throttle body and give a clean with carburettor cleaner and refitted the hunting problem still there, also when the car is hunting at idle the throttle opens and closes without touching the throttle. So I then changed the spark plugs, air filter, fuel filter and oil and still no difference. Next I decided to put a concentrated additive (redex) to clean my injectors. this did nothing so I ordered a new fuel filter as I thought it may be clogged this again did nothing it still hunts at idle quite bad. I need to know if there are any more hoses I need to check (the breather hose has a build-up of sediment so is it worth cleaning that properly) I really don't want to fork out money for a lambda sensor if this is not the problem. I have heard that changing the coolant temp sensor can fix this problem? Don’t think it’s a faulty starter motor or coil pack as the engine does crank over and starts perfectly when cold. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Cheers Duran.
  23. Okay, so I've developed a rattle/knock... It only happens at idle (700 RPM). It happens 50% of the time. When I press down the clutch it stops. When I then lift the clutch it rattles/ knocks again. If I rev the engine it stops, but then starts again as it goes below 800 RPM. It's not a heavy rattle but it does sound like a diesel, Haha. What do you think? Kind regards, MongLowe
  24. Hello, I'm new to this forum so hello everyone! I bought a polo yesterday because I wanted something cheap and reliable to get me to work and back, on the test drive I was uninsured so we asked the current owner to drive us round. The polo seemed fine and has a full service histroy, recent cambelt change, 81000 miles on the clock and full MOT history. I got insured just before I drove it home yesterday and noticed a few things which I wonder if you guys can help me out with. My polo is a 1.9 diesel from 1996. The first thing I noticed is the car drives fine however when in neutral or at idle the car vibrates throughout, this vibration stops after 1000rpm but anything lower and its like being on a bone shaker roller coaster. My other issue is the accelerator pedal seems to push down but doesn't come back up very quickly which causes high revs when changing gear, I can stop at traffic lights put the car in neutral, rev the engine and it will still be revving up to 4-5 seconds later before the pedal comes back up. My thoughts are a new cable for the accelerator and possibly an engine mount for the vibrating? What do you guys think? Thanks, Paul
  25. Hi all, I've just bought a 9n3 2007 1.2 S, which appeared to drive great on the test drive, but tonight after buying it seems very lumpy on idle. It's fine when cruising normally, however I've noticed the following; It hesitates when accelerating, before deciding to accelerate a few seconds later Doesn't move off well from stand still in 1st The worst issue is at stand still, with either my foot on the brake or handbrake on, the car is juddering quite a lot - almost like a misfire. I know the 3 cylinder engines aren't the quietest, but I can't believe this is the normal behavior for a relatively new engine with low miles. It shakes through the cabin, and the pedals. Way too much to tolerate if sitting in traffic. Not sure if this is telling me anything, but when turning the key to the first ignition switch point, all the dash warning lights go out except Battery, Engine management, EPC & Brake. Not sure if the EPC and engine management should stay on at this point? The idle sits at around 800rpm, no hunting etc... I need to act quite quickly to get this resolved as it's a new purchase, any help would be appreciated! Thanks
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