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Hi all, Came out the other day to give the G a blast after a couple of days standing and it's completely dead. Dashboard lights/radio/headlights all come on but no turn over. Not even a solenoid click I can also hear an electrical motor sound toward the rear which i presume is the fuel pump. I don't think it's the battery as all the electrics work and i've tried jumping it with a battery pack. Anyone got a clue what might be up? My mechanic skills are a work in progress so it's all a learning curve!

Hi guys, I posted earlier and got a very prompt response and it was greatly appreciated! I am getting married in little over 6 weeks time and hope to get my beloved mk2f coupe on the road again for the big day. The car has been off the road for some time and I asked my dad to charge the battery for me. I came home today to see that my dad loosened the cam and slipped the timing belt off and turned the cam by hand (for some reason). I am in a position now where my Haynes manual has disappeared and I need to know what damage has potentially been done/how to resolve it. I have taken a picture of how it is at the minute and note that the 2 white dots line up however I am unsure if this is of any significance. Any assistance would be appreciated. Cheers, Vinny

Hello, I am at the end of my tether with my poor running problem. It will run if I keep blipping the throttle but won't hold a steady tick over, to be able to set the mixture setting on the carburettor. I have deliberated between the Distributor, the points the plugs the leads the coil, the ignition circuit back to the ignition switch. I even checked the connection of the harness plugs near the fuse box, all seems well. The petrol isn't old and is 97ron super unleaded, lower ethanol? The carburettor is a recent fitted Weber 32IBF I have checked the carburettor for blocked idle jet . I have checked the ignition timing and valve timing all are within limits to run? The Weber instructions state the throttle screw should not be more than 2 turns in. The mixture screw should be within 2 turns out from fully seated. The airfilter is the standard air pan ring type.I am confident I don't have an air leakage at the manifold. I do not possess certain tools like a gas analyser or dwell meter. Although I am satisfied my points are gapped correctly and in serviceable order. It has got to the point where I am going around in circles. I give up in a defeated attitude. I leave it for days weeks, then decide to look at it again. I just cannot get it to run satisfactorily. To the point I am prepared to put another engine in, a 1300 electronic ignition type? If anyone has anything suitable? My engine is the last year of points ignition a 1985 GL engine coded 1043cc. In August 1985 the engine was redesigned incorporating hydraulic valve lifters, oil pump and fuel pump relocated, and electronic ignition.I cannot even use a later cylinder head? My engine has a points distributor Z43 type, with both advance and retard vacuum pipes fitted to a green spherical vacuum chamber. Actuated by a solenoid valve and relay. That would come into operation when the engine is under load by retarding the ignition I am in the Nottingham area if anyone could lend a hand? I have rebuilt the engine within 8000 miles, new shell bearings, piston rings etc. It would be a shame if I cannot get it to run satisfactorily ever again? It is unfortunate that mobile tuners are all of the plug in diagnostics fraternity? My old engine seems alien to them.

After a long time searching on line, I can't find a side entry distributor cap for a mk2 polo. I'm sure in the past I have seen such a thing. Does anyone know if there is such a thing and where I could get one? To answer a question from a previous post. Yes I will be running an oil cooler. At the moment I'm looking at mounting it in the nearside wing possibly with a fan on it but it depends on the room available.

Hi everyone, if anyone could help me diagnose my problem that would be amazing! I'm sure its down to something electrical? I have recently got back hold of the car (off road since'15) I had her firing a few times but running naff (always near enough flooding) so since these things I have changed; spark plugs, battery, replaced 1 HT lead (misfire), dizzy cap, oil sensor, blue and black coolant temp sensors, full service (oil, air & fuel) and also added and exhaust system. I have also added a gasket to the throttle body which was missing and fixed the one which sits between this and the carb (thick black one). Only after getting this far with the car today I've managed to see how bad the carbs flooding, if anyone has any ideas what it could be please let me know OR if you get the nail on the head I will PP you a beer token! :) Many thanks video here -

Hi all, been lurking on here for a while but never made an account. recently bought my first car, a p reg 1.4 cl (8v) with the Openair roof. Absolutely love it but have already caught the bug in terms of modding. Been reading up about carbs (seems less daunting than a 16v) to give it some more oomph but there’s one thing I’m not clear on. How does the ignition work when efi and stock throttle body etc is gone? Seen some websites saying I can run off stock distributor but lots of talk on here about mk2 wiring? Fairly new to it all but sort of mechanically minded so just looking for some explanation maybe. sorry for the long post and thanks in advance to anyone who bothers to read this and help a newb out!! ?

Hi, I have a mysterious problem with my Polo 6N2 -2000 with AHW engine (1.4l 16V) The car wont run properly.. Trying to start it up, it idles with difficulty at around 4-500 rpm.. Trying to give it more gas, and it dies.. Now, what has been done: - Cambelt is checked, and ok (3 times, one by a VAG shop)) - Comptest is ok - Camshaft and crankshaft sensor have been replaced with new one - Engine temp sensor have been replaced - Engine wire harness has been measured and is ok (by VAG shop) - ECU has been swapped (by VAG shop) - Ignition coil have been replaced with new one - Spark plugs and cables have been measured/replaced - Throttle body have been checked and re-calibrated Don´t think i missed anything.. Been a lot of replacing of parts.. :/ No errorcodes what so ever.. I'm running out of options.. Just got the car back from the VAG shop, and they say that it ignites on the exhaust stroke.. I asked how he could measure that, but the answer was that he hears it?? Nobody has been in the gearbox, so it would suprise me if the flywheel just happend to turn itself quarter of a turn... Anybody got any ideas? I'm running out of them... Thanks, Peter

Hi guys quick question I'm working on a bike carb conversation on my polo 6n 1.4 8v 1999 and need a vac advanced dizzy for the ignition Will this fit? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/131593448372 Any help is thankful! Thanks

Hi, Lost keys for car (98 polo 1.4) so bought an ecu/immobiliser/ignition/door locks + keys from someone breaking online... ecu + ignition is fitted ok, have all electric working , but unable to start car due to immobiliser. The immobiliser is different from my current one. ! This is the original: This is the replacement: Before i blow anything up ... 8) I am guessing "NC" is not not connected ? Should it work ok?? Thanks

Hi, Have lost my keys.... I can get a set of locks and ignition + keys from breaker. I believe i will i need the same immobiliser from the breakers car , but do i also need the ecu ? or will just a matched immobiliser do the job ? Thanks

Hi. This is an interesting one. So i get in to start my car, turn the key, turns over and starts, but as soon it start's it cuts out. all the lights start to flicker. But when I press the key with some force inwards as far i can and turn it, it starts normally. Any idea what would be the problem? Does any one had this problem before?

Hello ! I'm experiencing difficulties with my recently bought second hand Polo mk3 (6N 1.4L 1390 AEX). When I put the key in the contact and turn it, not a single indicator of the instrument panel switches on. If I keep turning the key, the motor starts but the instrument panel is still mute : no gauges moves. Ventilator, wipers, interior lamp work. Headlamps, turning indicators, warnings do work and are shown on the instrument panel. I did check fuses visually and with a multimeter and all of them seem ok. Any suggestions where I should start looking ? Thanks in advance !

Hi all, I have a polo 9n3, on which I have removed the factory head unit and installed a tablet (a Nexus 7). For this I ran a custom wiring including voltage adapters and a small amplifier that powers the speakers. My problem is that when you cranck the engine, there's an awful sound coming from the speakers (I think a voltage spike when the alternator kicks in). I have checked that the ignition wire stays high (12V) while the engine is starting, so there must be another wire that I'm unable to find that can be used to detect this situation!. The stock head unit, and many other things in the card such as the lights, turn off while the engine is starting. Anybody has faced this issue?, Thanks a lot!

Hi guys, Hope this is posted within the correct section ... My (2003) polo has a problem with the cd player connection. It does not turn on at all, not even after changing the red and yellow connections over. I've checked all fuses but they look fine and worked before. I was told that the reason this is happening is that the ignition cable has burnt out. Admittedly the problem started when accidentally cranking the volume suddenly - all sound cut out... I know it sounds like a fuse blown but I have checked all fuses. Oh and I even bought a new cd player.. Could anyone point me in the right direction? is this an expensive job to replace the ignition cable, if that is the problem of course. Is it a long, difficult job? or can I get this sort of thing done at my local Halfords? If anyone knows if this sounds correct or can suggest a solutions I would be very grateful! Thanks,

I have had my polo for just over a year and it continues to fail in the rain. I live in the countryside and when the weather is wet there is a lot of standing water left along all these back roads and i obviously cant avoid every puddle. The engine bay seems to get damp sometimes when the rain is really bad and the engine electrics warning light starts to flash. Next thing i know the car is only running on three cylinders. This usually goes away with a bit of wd40 in about the ignition system, a good dry and leaving it running so the water can evaporate. A couple of nights ago i hit a huge puddle and this time it just wont quite get back to normal. I have replaced HT leads today which make no difference. I thought it may be the coil pack but i read that the ignition works using the wasted spark method so wouldn't i be only running on two cylinders if that's the case? I will check all the spark plugs tomorrow but this has been done before when it first happened and the spark plug seemed to be ok when placing it on another HT lead. any help would be much appreciated. Thanks.

I posted a topic a while ago about my car not starting. It's a temperamental little thing and I've still not figured out what the issue is. For ages I thought it was a sensor issue (it still could be) because it won't start when the engine is cold, that is once it has been left off for 12 hours+. However this could always be down to the fuel having evaporated, thus being a fuel issue. I have however made progress towards a workaround. For a while, if it wouldn't start, I'd lift the bonnet and remove then reattach and the distributor leads, and make sure the lead from the amplifier wasn't touching any other leads. I was told sometimes the spark is lost when leads are touching due to dampness. This would 90% of the time start the car, but on the times it wouldn't it led me to believe that this wasn't actually the issue. So here I am now, with my car sometimes starting right away like a trouper. Other days though I will have to repeatedly turn it over, each time I do it sounds more and more like starting, till boom, it fires. Sometimes it fires after a few, sometimes after a dozen. But one thing is for sure, turning it over for a long period of time doesn't work, it has to be repeatedly turned over. What on Earth could be causing this? I can only forsee this getting worse throughout winter, so I'd love to diagnose it soon myself and then get it fixed. I'm relatively handy with cars so I may be able to fix it, but I can't diagnose, and I rue taking it into a garage for them to just tell me the lambda needs changing or something... Thanks in advance!