Jump to content
Notice to Hotmail/Gmail & BT Internet users - Please check your SPAM/JUNK folders for our emails. Please add our email as a contact to your email account.

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'mk2'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • Meets, Shows and Events
  • Birthdays


  • Welcome to ClubPolo
    • News, Updates and Club Information
    • Sign up to the Club Polo Forum - IT'S FREE!!!
    • Upgrade and become a Club Member!
    • Advertising on ClubPolo
  • Club Members Area
    • Members Only
    • Forum discounts, Promotions and more
    • Exclusive Club Members Download Area
  • Technical Forums
    • Technical Help With My Volkswagen Polo
  • Classified Sections - For Sale, Wanted, Exchange Ads
    • For Sale, Wanted or Freecycle [LIVE]
    • Cars Breaking (For Sale)
  • Members Rides, Projects & Gallery
    • Polo's
    • Non Polo's and other makes
    • Photo & Video Chat
  • Community Discussions & Events
    • The Polo Social
    • Discussion Forums
    • Regional Meets & Shows
    • Club Polo Track Day 2017
  • Sponsored Forums
    • Chris Knott Insurance
    • Prestige Keep Moving Insurance
    • Entrepreneur Traders
  • Website and Forum Problem/Feedback
    • Help and advice on using ClubPolo Forums.

Product Groups

  • The Polo Social 2018
  • Club Polo Membership
  • Club Polo Parts
  • ClubPolo Merchandise
    • Club Polo Gift Packs
  • Sponsor Advertising


  • Active Reports
  • Archived Reports

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...

  1. GT-BOB

    Vw polo mk2 brake master cylinder

    Hey guys, im looking for a new brake master cylinder for my 1990/91 polo van... every site i go on there all sold out, there's abosch one on ebay for £150 which I'm not willing to pay... mines the one where the reservoir bottle is located slightly more forward than the other type and has the brake light sensor on the side of it too
  2. Hi all, I've been cleaning the oil pump of my engine (1.3 MH) and decided to open it so I can clean a lot more inside (hard to stop cleaning when you started to clean everything even if you know it's gonna be dirty afterward). Then I've noticed several notch or timing marks inside the pump. I didn't noticed that there was also 2 other timing mark/notch outside on the pump body. I'm not aware of any kind of timing procedure for the oil pump. I mean, once you've disassemble it then you just want to assemble it back and it would be fine. But looking at those marks, I'm a bit confused on how I'm gonna assemble it back then. Are these mark intended for a particular timing procedure of the oil pump ? Or can I just assemble my oil pump without worry ? I have cleaned and disassembled 2 oil pump : - 1st one is from a 1991 MH engine and has part number 030 115 109 - the 2nd one is from a 1992 MH engine and has part number 030 115 109 A I was a bit surprised since parts catalog like partsouq says oil pump part number is 030 115 105 E (I hope these are compatible) Here is one of the mark on the pump body (030 115 109 has a single mark while 030 115 109 A has 2 marks) : Here is another mark on the pump body : Here is a mark on a part inside the pump ("gear" in English ?) : This mark is oriented inside the pump (meaning you don't see it when you open the pump but only when you remove the gear)
  3. Hello, Just got my -84 Polo Classic together and running. 1.3 HK with Pierburg 2E3 carb. Problem is the rough and dragging sound from the head area, could it be the fuel pump? Took timing cover and other stuff off to make sure there was nothing dragging. Link to video: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1T3BksxrxnnlufVRbofBAx6PGC6eIEWuC/view?usp=drivesdk Also the mixture screw on the carb doesn’t seem to have any effect to the car running. How much should it affect (on idle) when screwed almost fully in vs almost fully out? Pardon my English, cheers from Finland!
  4. Hi all, I'm looking for the torque wrench settings in Nm units (if possible) for the following bolts. These are located on the engine bottom end. The engine codename is MH (which is similar to 2G/AAV but with a carburetor). I'm not sure of the "English" naming of these parts so forgive me for not giving you their names (seems to be "sealing flange"). Feel free to provide their names if you can 🙂 1st part : Looking for the torque settings in Nm units for the bolts marked with a red arrow 2nd part : Looking for the torque settings in Nm units for the bolts marked with a red arrow (I've added a question mark on one arrow because I'm not sure if this bolt is concerned or not).
  5. Hi guys, just got the polo back from the MOT today and it failed due to the rear fog light not working. It appears that there is also no light on the button when you switch it "on". I've checked the bulb, connection to the button and the fuse box (fuse 12 is it?). Not sure what else to try. Any ideas are much appreciated, thanks guys 👍
  6. Hi all, it’s been a fair while since my last visit to the site, but I’m returning once again to ask for your never emptying fountain of knowledge and advice. Currently my breadvan is lowered on what I believe is TA Technix shocks and springs. The ride is awful and I hate it. As I’m trying to restore the car and undo all the annoying things that the previous owner has done to it, I've bought new Bilstein front and rear shocks. These I believe are relatively decent OE replacements. I need to source suitable OE replacement springs. Can I use Bilstein for this too? Finally, are there any other components that I require before I change the suspension over? For example: bellows/boots, top mounts etc? Or will the currently installed parts suffice and I can just swap them over. Many thanks
  7. Hi all, My 1986 Polo’s HZ engine is running badly. When cold, the engine cuts out whenever I need to stop. When warm, it feels like it wants to stall but the engine kind of catches itself and sounds lumpy. It feels low on power and the fuel consumption isn’t great. It makes driving it a bit scary and dangerous as I don’t want it cutting out on me at busy junctions etc. I’m really keen to fix this problem. I just want to learn how to diagnose and repair this issue. I believe that these symptoms are caused by a vacuum leak somewhere. Could this be at the rubber carburettor flange, somewhere in the vacuum pipes or maybe from a blocked jet in the carburettor? I have a genuine VW carb flange to replace the one on my car currently. However I’m unsure on the following: I have a Pierburg 1B3. How do I clean the carburettor jets? Do I need to remove them and what products/cleaning process do I need to do to ensure I can clean them properly and without damaging them? Please can someone tell me which vacuum pipes need checking too? Thanks
  8. Hi guys. Just joined the club, thanks for having me. I have a 1985 polo coupe S. mech head. I’ve just replaced the valves, water pump n belt. (it snapped) 🙄 couldn’t get the 110mm valves anywhere. Ended up buying a scrap HK head from Greece for 40euros n 70euros to post it. Then it got held up at customs for a month. Was gutted. anyhoo. It’s all built up but the oil spray bar has snapped off the plastic locators at either end (a common fault I believe). It sits just above the camshaft and just underneath the cam cover. It’s just become brittle a broken away. Any ideas where I can get one? Had a hunt online but no joy, I’ve not rang the dealers yet as it’s after hours now, but I don’t hold much faith that they will still do this part. any advise much appreciated. Thanks Deano.
  9. Selling some genuine VW mk2 steel wheel center caps but would suit any 4x100 pcd steel wheel and some mudflaps not genuine VW but never fitted
  10. Hi. It's 20 years since I spent much time here, which is about how long I've had these alloys and never done anything with them. My dream was a MK2 coupe on a modern N/A engine with some trick ITBs but real life, job/family got in the way so it's about time I got rid of these. They are MSW Type 1933A, 6x13. In generally good nick; some of the original paint is weathered down to primer and there are a few scuffs but I think I've pictured the worst one. I don't think these ones were sold with the face diamond cut but you could go that route, I would imagine they'd clean up well. These are from the 80s/90s so if you were going to use them in anger I'd definitely get them looked at by a pro to check for damage and make sure they were safe. If you want to see them looking cheeky and in-period with a diamond cut variant, check this out: http://www.vask.org.nz/index.php?topic=27388.0 There are only two, very brittle centre caps which aren't brilliant but would give you enough sense of the originals to get some reps made up if you fancied. £20 quid, collection only from north Bristol. I don't get on here (ever) so be patient if you are interested please. Thanks.
  11. Here's a weird one. I've been working my way through literally all the ignition bits, hunting vacuum leaks etc. Still feel something is not right with the idling on my mk2 (1043cc with Weber and manual choke conversion). So I've finally started on carb adjustment. Only problem is the idle speed screw wasn't even engaged in the cam! So presumably was having no effect on idle speed until I started adjusting the carbs and screwed it in a bit. I have a vacuum gauge and can now get it idling OKish by adjusting the mixture. But now the idle speed seems a little too high (tested it to be around 1000-1100 using a cheap induction rev counter). That's about as good as I can get it and I can't adjust any lower even if I wanted too unless I'm missing something. So what would this mean, is the choke perhaps not properly disengaging and if so how do I adjust? When I pulled the spark plugs they seemed pretty sooty and rich to me too.
  12. Snakeaids

    Gt on carbs?

    The previous owner of my polo ran the engine dry and the engines completely welded, I have been looking for a replacement engine and the closest one to me is a guy saying that he has a 1.3L Gt engine which should run on carbs. My car is a polo mk2 ranger which already has a 1.3 in it, i was wondering if the GT would be a straightforward swap, or would I need to change things?
  13. Hi I'm looking for advice on best size tyre for 13 inch bbs mesh on 40 mm lowered front and back pics be great of setups and sizes on 13 inch wheels and 40 mm suspension drop thanks
  14. Hi, So I have a very bad leak started recently in the cooling pipe that runs across the back of the engine. I can find the part (it's 1043 HZ engine) and although it's expensive I think I'll have to bite the bullet. So far although I lost a lot of coolant the engine doesn't appear to have overheated. Does anyone have advice for replacing this? E.g. How much stuff do I have to remove or can I do it on the driveway from underneath? Thanks.
  15. rossekins

    Our 1989 mk2 Breadvan Project

    Hello Everyone! So for ages me and me Mrs have wanted a breadvan. Since becoming parents during the pandemic (first lockdown) we have realised that we do absolutely nothing in our spare time. We both love VWs and we literally live less than 10 miles from Santa Pod so it seemed only right to get back into a hobby we both enjoy. Me Mrs was not so much a fan of the facelift so we started looking for a mk2. We managed to find one 10 miles away that was running moted and everything for £800. But unfortunately we were a day late and it went very very quickly. It was a shame because it looked as if it needed barely any work and was on the road. We missed out and was pretty upset but we got over it and managed to find another one. The only downside is that it hasn't been on the road for a while. So here she is. She's a G reg "fox" 1043cc. (We haven't got a name for her yet) Inside is pretty much immaculate apart from a bit of a wet front carpet (there is a hole in the battery tray shock) She needs a little bit of work but I am extremely excited to get started. I am not a mechanic by any means but I have owned plenty of modified cars in the past. I am really keen to learn more and more and get better with cars generally hence why I bought a bit of a project. The car is being stored at my cousin's unit (he is a welder fabricator by trade) and he is going to teach me a few bits here and there. The car was taken off the road for 5 years and has been stored since. In 2016 there was a couple of advisories for ball joints and top mounts and brake pipe corrosion. A little welding is needed on the two rear quarters and the battery tray but apart from that I think we are looking pretty good. List of things to do in the next couple weeks: Replace windscreen wiper motor Weld up battery tray Sort out quarter panels Put bumpers back on properly Heating only works on full power so needs attention Hang exhaust up properly Ball joints Top mounts Rear brake cylinders and shoes (they are binding on) We don't have massive budget. But the short term plans are this. Swap for MH 1.3 engine GT cam Lowered 60/40 Nice wheels GSXR carbs and manifold General tidy up Long term will be A fresh new paint job Then who knows what else? We are both really excited to add to this thread over time and can't wait to get cracking right now! Our plan is to have the majority of this list completed and to have her on the road ready for the VW shows at pod this year. We would like to make it to VW breakout ideally but as long as we are ready for bugjam we will be chuffed. Thanks for looking/following Ross & Lucy
  16. Hi, does anyone know if you can swap the old style expansion tank (867121407) for the newer circular / spherical style of tank like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Expansion-tank-for-radiator-without-sensor-for-SEAT-VW-357121407B-/143653885807?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0 Mine is cracked on one of the corners where the bolt is. It still holds coolant fine but I'm thinking it would be good to replace but since you can get the part new I wondered if using this other type would be possible?
  17. Hi everyone I’m after some help! I’ve had the cylinder head of my polo and had all the valves out lapped them in and put them back in with new seals. However after finishing that I’ve found a part I’m not sure if it from this engine or where it goes so any help would be great!
  18. Does anyone know how this weber 32 TLM is supposed to be connected to the choke cable?
  19. Hi all, I've a stupid question but I'm asking anyway. I have an engine head which has scratches and grooves caused by sand paper on its surface (where you put the head gasket). The scratches and grooves are not too deep but they may have a little impact on the head gasket lifetime. It is always better to have a clean flatten surface. I can't afford to bring the head to a professional shop so I'm asking myself what if use some valve lapping paste to remove these scratches. I have a flat piece of glass which is big and thick enough. So what if I put lapping paste on the head surface and put the glass above it ? Then moving the glass left/right several times just like when doing valve break in until the scratches disappear. I didn't find anyone doing that so I guess that's like some stupid idea. I don't have a sand paper big enough to cover the whole glass and head also.
  20. I don't know if this should be asked in "Electric" or "Engine" topic but I'll try here... I have 2 engines (MH 1.3 55hp carb), one is from a mk2 (1991-03) and the other from a mk2f (1992-03). I'm a bit confused in matching the model of the alternator pulley (aka v-belt pulley) and alternator/generator (didn't notice the alternators references but I will). I have no clue if the previous owners used the right alternator model. How do I choose the pulley depending on the alternator I have or want to use ? The mk2f v-belt pulley has a reference of VW 030 105 255E with an outer diameter of approx. 149mm. This reference is expected for the mk2f, so far so good. The mk2f v-belt pulley has no visible reference and has an outer diameter of approx. 136mm. I don't know if that's the diameter expected on the mk2. Obviously, I may simply use the pulley and alternator which were on the car. But what if the alternator was not meant for the pulley diameter (running too fast / too slow) ?
  21. Hi all, Started to clean my engine head today (MH 1.3 55hp). It seems the valve seats are in good condition and there are no cutter scratches. Just did some visual observations but the head looks good despite some kind soap stucked in the water holes (which can be cleaned if taking the necessary time or have the necessary tool like ultrasonic). But then I found this damage where the thermostat is mounted on the head. The material is gone, it's like a small crater of 1-2mm deep. I doubt the thermostat seal will work with such thing (maybe adding some magic black silicone ? but I doubt and not a big fan of such solution). I've put a lot of hope in this head but now I'm quite disappointed. I don't know if this can be repaired by professional shops and I wonder how could they repair it (how much...) ? This head was one of the 2 heads I have and which had the lowest mileage. The other one was working but had one exhaust valve bent causing compression leak on one cylinder. The top has the higher mileage the bottom the lowest : Now I'm confused in deciding which one will I use and if later on some day I can take the 1st one to a professional shop, how will they repair such thing, how much will it cost, etc...
  22. Hi all, I have uninstalled my hydraulic tappets from my engine head (MH 1.3 55hp carb). I want to know how do I check if they're still in good condition or not ? I thought I can leave them for 1h in a bowl of oil for example but then what's next ?
  23. Hi everyone, I'm restoring my engine which is completely disassembled right now (1.3 MH 55hp carb). New parts should arrive in few weeks but I'm thinking in advance on how I'm gonna fit all these stuff together. My camshaft is already uninstalled and separated from the head. Whats is the best or easy way to install the seal when I'm gonna assemble the head ? - The usual way : With camshaft installed then push the seal in its place - Or another way : Without camshaft installed, put the seal in the camshaft outside of the head then install the camshaft and thight the caps Below is a pict from partsouq (link at the end). The seal is part "2" in picture and I've added and arrow where I may put the seal without the camshaft installed then lock the bracket etc... (let me know if I'm not clear. Not sure "bracket" is the right word to use there). Obviously, placing the seal before the camshaft is probably easier than pushing it when working with the head and block installed in the engine bay. But not sure if that way may crush or damage the seal Link (Partsouq) : Cylinder Head
  24. Hi, unfortunately my bready has become an annoying illusive siv... I have had an oil leak fairly excessively for a couple months costing copious amounts on oil. I decided after looking and looking that although I had a suspicion of the leak being from either the rocker or head gaskets as had just changed them. So after fully dismantling and re assembling after a deep bay clean and an actual metal coloured engine had appeared I was able to see it was from the rocker cover gasket in the drivers side and closest to front of car corner of the gasket. The rocker cover sits level but does have some movement left right when the top bolts are not tightened down. Is there a position the rocker cover has to be in to properly seal? The gasket is also seemingly slightly big as you can see it on a side of the rocker cover when it moves. Have attached pics to help explain although have a video I cannot attach here of the movement l/r of the rocker I can email etc ? Any help appreciated Thanks a lot George
  25. Hi there, I'm restoring my engine (1.3 MH) and found a part in the engine head next the camshaft (next the dizzy side). I looks like a piece of cylindric metal which moves quite freely and can be removed. I couldn't find it on any VW parts catalog or schema. I wanted to know its purpose. Here are some photos where you can see it (red arrows). The piece of metal is originally fitted like this Originally it barely touches the camshaft (but I've moved it a bit in this photo) As I already said It can move freely and can be removed
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. Terms of Use Privacy Policy Guidelines