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Found 258 results

  1. Tardmeold

    MK2 polo driver's door

    Time Left: 1 month and 27 days

    • WANTED
    • USED

    Hi looking for a good condition drivers door mk2 also with wing mirror if possible around Sheffield unless your willing to post Thanks Andy


    sheffield - GB

  2. Hi Everyone I've had my fair share of Polo's over the years, starting with a MK2 breadvan when I passed my test back in 2002. After scrapping my 6n2 in 2016, I had been itching to get another classic. Whilst visiting the Isle of Skye for a week back in July 2016, I spotted this late model MK2 Polo Country lying at the end of someones driveway. I had a snoop around, and despite looking a tad unloved, it was clean and only had 39k miles showing. I put a note through the door asking if it was for sale, and heard nothing for the remainder of my time there. I went home, slightly deflated and expecting never to see it again. In November 2016, I received a call from the owner asking if I was still interested. The owner told me it had been her mothers car, which she had bought brand new in 1990. When her mother gave up driving, it passed to her in 2006. It has a fully stamped service book, original keys, dealer plates, tax disc holder etc. Unfortunately I had just spent all my spare funds buying a MK1 Golf Cabriolet, so I very reluctantly had to pass up on it. In 2017 I found myself with some spare money, but I had lost the owners number. I made some attempts at reaching out to them via local Facebook groups, but this was unsuccessful. I even had a friend who was passing the area attempt to make contact, but the Polo was nowhere to be seen. Fast forward two years to November 2018, by which point the dream had long been buried. The owner contacted me again out the blue, asking if I would still be interested. Of course I jumped at the chance, and after several phone calls arranging the logistics, I collected it on the 8th of December 2018 on the back of my brother-in-law's pick up. After a 5 hour - 160 mile drive over some of Scotlands nicest roads, we arrived back in Ayrshire where the Polo was put into the garage for some light restoration work. Over December and January we got the car running. It didn't need much, a new battery, a light service (filters, plugs, belts etc), some fresh fuel and away it went. The exhaust was beyond repair though so a replacement was sourced and fitted. In early February we took it a drive around some farm roads to get it up to temperature. This gave us a chance to iron out a few idling issues caused by the automatic choke. With that sorted and it now running perfectly, we presented it for MOT on 16th February. It passed! In celebration, I obtained a replacement Country/Parade interior from a guy around 70 miles away. I had been on the lookout for one ever since I knew I was buying the car, so I think finding a decent original interior in less than 4 months is an achievement, considering there are less than 100 left of this model on the road (www.howmanyleft.co.uk). I gave the car a good wash, which I think was the first time it has seen a sponge in at least 5 years. The photos make it look a lot better than it actually is if I am honest. I plan on getting it resprayed soon, so I've put some MK2F trims on it just to tidy it up a little for now. I do have the original ones which I will fit later. In a few months time I am having it fully resprayed. This will give me some time to source some replacement trim parts that are a bit tired, as well as new "Country" decals. In the meantime, I plan on installing some new speakers (it still has the original Panasonic cassette deck) and really just enjoy it along with my MK1 Golf Cabby. I'll update this thread with any progress as I go. If anyone has instagram, I post on there regularly (@stevenvw.co.uk) or on my website at www.stevenvw.co.uk. Happy to hear any comments or suggestions 🙂 Steven
  3. I have a 1977 Derby 1.3 that drives just fine but needs some rust and technical repair. Body parts seem to be very rare if not impossible to find. Have most of it sorted out, but more parts and more power would be nice. Having owned a G40 before, I miss that engine... Now... I have been offered a cirka 1993 Polo G40 with a turbo, aftermarket subframe, coilovers +++ for a sensible amount of money. How much of the 86c parts will fit my MK1 Derby? Will the subframe + motor, suspension and brakes be bolt on? How about the doors..? Is there a cross reference list available somewhere? I have tried searching - a lot.... Excited that I found this forum. Thanks in advance!
  4. Morning guys, I know the obvious causes of wheel wobble but I cannot seem to cure it on my 84 bready. I have 14x6 alloys on with brand new tyres. They have all been balanced, tracking is correct, and all have spigots. I originally thought i cured the problem by changing the front discs which had an obvious sticking spot, but it returned again shortly. I have now changed the pads AND discs a second time for better quality ones and nothings changed. It has full poly bushings all round, the track rods seem fine. I did find that the single small disc bolt did come loose but i have thread locked that in, and doesnt it get held tight by the wheel bolts anyway?? The only thing i havn't changed is front wheel bearings but i can't notice any play in there. The wobble is between 55-65, felt through the steering wheel. It comes on noticeably when letting off the throttle too, but not when braking. The only thing I know of that it could still be is the bearings, or a wheel is buckled? However i thought they would pick that up when balancing, and im pretty sure i have tried swapping the front wheels to back but cant remember. Any ideas would be much appreciated. Cheers!
  5. I've fitted a 32tlm Weber carb from a 957cc Ford fiesta to my 1043cc early mech head polo and it seems to be running lean no matter how much I adjust the mixture screw so was wondering if anyone has any advice or could reccomend a rolling road that stocks jets ect to suit Weber 32tlm in the north east preferably Tyne and wear aera as I dont really want to make any long journeys while the mixture isn't right although the car does seem to be starting and driving fine, or as good as the old solex on perished rubber flange did if not slightly better Thanks Dan.
  6. Okay so my car cut out again this morning, started fine, idled fine half choke and drove off fine, wouldn't rev high whilst on choke, wouldn't idle whilst off choke, then 100 yards down the road cut out and wouldn't start, just kept turning over and turning over for about 5 minutes then eventually started to pick up and started again. I must be getting air in from somewhere on the carb as I've tried richening up the mixture to no avail, gunsons colourtune shows no change in colour no matter hkdow far you adjust the mixture screw and gas tester shows .6-1.1 co on idle, plugs are white This makes me think that its carburettor issue causing the cutting out and not starting unfortunately I didn't have a spark plug with me to check if I had spark when it cut out So I've been considering changing the solex out for a Weber but I'm not sure which is suitable I've seen people mention 32tla but is a 32tlm for a 950cc fiesta the equivalent?
  7. Time Left: 28 days and 17 hours

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    First up, here is a link to the build thread for far more pictures. For sale is a solid rolling shell with some parts still attached. These include: New brake lines and fuel lines. GT/G40 inline pump, Mk3/Mk2f fuel tank and lift pump. Mk2 Golf 16v Master Cylinder 256mm front disc conversion 219mm rear discs conversion New handbrake lines - No fitted. Later Polo handbrake tunnel section still to be welded in. Weitec 60/40 Springs with 10mm caps on the front on SPAX shocks GT/G40 rear axle with ARB and polybushed GT/G40 steering rack with new arms New TCA New wheel bearings 5 speed ARB and shifter New Genuine VW front panel Also seats, couple of sets of door cards, dash, carpet etc. Front lights, grill, bumpers are here. Only negative is the battery tray will need to be repaired. The car is perfect for any GT/G40, AFH/AVY conversion. I have a lot of pieces for the AFH/AVY conversions but that can be dealt with when viewing the shell but these parts are in another garage so you need to do a couple of trips. You would be best bringing your own 14" wheels are mine are in another garage. The main reason for selling this is I have run out of room so once the shell has gone I can start emptying another and selling my other Polo parts that have stacked up over the last 10+ years. If you spot parts in the thread like the PPS subframe that is not for sale right now so no PM's regarding that.


    , Gloucestershire - GB

  8. jordoan

    Jordan's MK2F breadvan

    Hi all been wanting to do one of these for a while but only just got the chance i bought my mk2f breadvan from stockport around september 2017 & it's been an on going daily project ever since. i painted it blue with graffiti paint lowered it on an ebay lowering kit & started doing shows in 2018. after blowing the first 1l engine up i did a quick engine change to another 1l for under £100 just to keep the car on the road. comes to november 2018 time & i wanted to start a winter build. started with painting the car, the car is now melon yellow - done with montana graffiti cans. yes i painted over the windows because i liked the look of a panel van & couldn't be bothered trying to track down some actual panels. bought a GT conversion with the 5 speed short ratio box, stainless manifold and a few extra bits. i liked the idea of having brand new parts even if the old ones were fine.. driveshafts, front coilovers, top mounts, bottom arms, track rod arms/ends, ARB Blocks etc. this build isn't the best thing ever but certainly is a eye catcher & i love the thing aha. this car is built to what i like... not what other people think. if i listened to everyone else it'd be sat here with a 40/60 lowering kit on bbs hahaa STRIP - DROP - RATTLE - ROLL (a motto i like to use from a club called DUBRATZ) if anyone has any questions feel free to ask. photos may not be in order the car currently isnt finished & i'm waiting for a few parts to arrive, i've just bought a new bonnet & wings as ones on the car had dents. follow me on insta: _jordoan_
  9. Just a quick question.. about to buy an exhaust that's come off a MK2 breadvan, would it fit on my 2f coupe? Or would I have to make adjustments?
  10. So far I've not had my oil light working, doesn't illuminate when ignition is on and doesn't illuminate when wire is earthed. Initially I thought it must be a break on the pcb on the clocks but I've had them apart tonight to fix a sticky speedo and it looks like I'm missing something? I've attached pictures showing where there appears to be a missing connector on the back of the speedo or are they not supposed to be plugged into anything?
  11. Hi guys. Hope you're all well. I have a full bike carb conversion kit that i had fitted to an early 80's breadvan. Will it fit on a later model? Specifically a 94? Facelift model? There is an outlet on the manifold inlet for brake servo but i filled that in as mine didn't use that. Asking as i have no use for the kit and someone wants to buy it if it will fit. Thanks for stopping by and any guidance you can leave.
  12. JCmk2

    Polo breadvan build thread

    Hi there thought I start a build thread from a year ago from when I bought the car. I was 16 what I bought it as a car to learn how to do things on as I had use of a ramp at a local garage as I was a Saturday boy there. I bought it for 200£ with a months on it! I then got a mate at work to list everything that would need doing and there was a fair bit but I took it on. I needed to do starter motor as it was broken and wired up dodgy and a track rod end and new suspension all round which I went for a 60/40 ta technix lowering kit after that a mate done welding to inner and outer both sills which a wasn’t too expensive and was much appreciated as then after a few bulbs and a couple of tyres it passed the mot This picture was taken a few weeks after it passed at dubs at the park and I found pictures of some of the rust and me spraying it after my mate had done the welding
  13. I've recently bought a 1982 polo breadvan with 1043cc engine and manual choke carb and it idles fine, starts fine and runs okay apart from sputtering every now and then. It appears that it's fine when throttle is wide open but when pulling away or changing down gears and pulling away it struggles causing the car to kangaroo before picking up again. I'm having to compensate with high revs when pulling away to avoid it stalling and those skinny little tyres struggle enough for traction and wheelspinning away from every junction isn't as fun as it sounds. Just wondering if anyone has had similar issues or any idea what to look for? I'm assuming its carb related so I'm assuming that will need to come off and have a good clean. Any help or advice will be much appreciated Thanks Dan.
  14. NebulaicToaster

    "Birtha"- 1989 mk2 for a European Road Trip

    So I bought Birtha from a guy in Surrey without seeing her for very little. All I had to go on were a couple of videos and a phone call. After getting her trailered to Wiltshire I embarked on the long process of restoring her. The plan is to drive her from England to Portugal and back in April and May this year. I had very limited mechanical knowledge starting off (beyond working on tractors) so with my Hayne's manual and a lot of help from the forums (especially @dvderlm, with the pesky pierburg) I set out to get her running. She arrived in Wiltshire not running and missing plates but chock full of spare parts (some of which have been useful). Cosmetically there was some rust on the sills, a ding on the front from hitting a bollard and a very "patina" roof. My mate had a mk2f in his shed which he used to keep sheep feed in until the rats got to it so I figured I would have a fair number of spare parts to hand. This was a little naiive I admit. The previous owner said it didn't need much work, just a manual choke fitting because the auto on the pierburg was broken. While the autochoke may have been duff, the main problem was that the base gasket was leaking air like a sieve. My first cry for help to the forum: After fitting a new base mount (to date I've managed to get three duff units, though I didn't know at the time. The threading sheared out of the rubber twice. The threads on the original bolts and the ones off a scrap car were a different size to the new mounts so in the end I managed to source some m6x100mm bolts which fit perfectly) I spotted a cheap manual choke pierburg on ebay I could skim a choke fitting from. When it arrived it was in much better nick than my pierburg so I decided to redo the gaskets on that one and put it in. This was a mistake, my lack of knowledge at the time caused a few wild goose chases down the road. I parked up the car for a month while I went on a trip. Out in SA I saw a few cars in worse shape which bolstered my confidence a little: When I got back I did a bit more investigating with the car, she was idling now but there was an oil leak somewhere. Initially I thought it was the sump gasket but getting the torch out showed some very poor easygasket spreading on the front right side of the block. The head gasket was leaking. I decided it would be both wise and a good learning experience to sort this out properly. I resolved to replace the head gasket. My second help thread: I was very paranoid about messing up the timing but with all your help I didn't mess it up too badly. I decided to do the water pump and belts too. This proved to make the job twice as hard because of the pesky plastic back cover. I couldn't for the life of me work out how to get the cover off so I took to it with the hacksaw. It's now much easier to get at the belt and mostly covered up. A mate of my dad's runs a head reconditioning shop and did a full skim and rebuild for a couple of bottles (I tried to pay him but he wouldn't take it!). It came back absolutely spotless: Managed to get it all back together, timed up (timing gun is my favourite toy, second only to colourtune) and idling (though still a bit high). After doing the discs, pads, ARB mounts, TCAs and rear wheel bearings I felt sure we were nearly ready to go. But then she sprung a leak. The radiator bottom hose had split. After another parts wild goose chase I replaced the hose with a flexi and all the jubilee clips someone had put on with new spring clips. I felt a little silly when I found a replacement bottom hose in one of the bags of parts the previous owner had left for me (it wasn't with the other hoses though ). I also replaced the thermostat housing and thermostat (which was non-existent when I opened it up, a clear red flag for head gasket going!) All leaks unsprung I thought we were good so I sanded down the horrible patina on the roof and painted it with (don't crucify me) Hammerite Wild Thyme: I also did the wheels in some metallic blue I had knocking about. Anyway after driving her a bit I started getting coil problems: So I swapped it out, though it turned out to be the hall sender arcing, so I swapped that out for another dizzy I had about. She drove well for a while, we went all the way to Wells, then to Wales! Birtha looked a bit ridiculous with a roof rack (also 4 up with a full rack and a dog caused the back wheels to rub so we had to go in 2 cars): It developed a problem about half way to wales, idling out of gear caused the motor to cut out. Not good but I had to nurse her back to Wiltshire like that. This was quite the saga. She broke down for ten minutes 5 miles from home, but I got her in. It turned out another carb bolt had sheared the thread out of the base rubber because the original bolts had different threads to the threads in the rubber. I was driving using the engine vacuum to keep the carb sucked down. Risky. I got a replacement and some new bolts. They went on perfectly and the seal was solid. I thought that solved the problem so I headed off to work. She wouldn't start at work for a bit but I managed to get it going and nurse it home all the way until the big hill with a junction at the top. At which point the car in front decided to stop and I stalled. She wouldn't start at all so I had to call the AA. While waiting it not only started to snow but the police stopped by and helped me push birtha up onto the flat. Big up the wiltshire feds: Sadly the pub was no longer in service so I could only offer a handshake. Mr AA turned up and promptly turned my fuel filter around and chucked a load of grime into the carb. @dvderlm suggested it might be a blocked part load enrichment. Turns out that at some point in servicing the carb I had replaced the gasket on the #13 plate spring bit: And not put it back on the pin properly. The nub was rattling around in the cavity, blocking the hole when on a hill causing the car not to start. I cleaned the whole carb, replaced the fuel filter and replaced the low load enrichment unit as a whole from the old carb. The car drives perfectly now. We head off down to Portugal in April. Very excited. Stay tuned for nice pics and more updates. Cheers for all the help. You guys were ACE
  15. A couple of MOT's back I got a corrosion advisory for O/S beam mount near the fuel filler area. I Aquasteeled it up and it wasn't detected at the last MOT at a different garage (good sign, right?). The whole arch is rotten now; the skins are separating and the GT arch trim fell off somewhere never to be seen again. How bad does the beam mount have to get to fail an MOT and is it an expensive welding repair?
  16. Hey, I'm trying to work out what's going on with my car's inlet heater. I think the relay is missing. Is it the socket by the fuse box (passenger side)? If so, what's the part no/other identifying thingy for the relay, so I can get a new one? I tried getting one off of Heritage but it is the wrong pin out.
  17. Hi! I've been meaning to get around to fixing the carb on my old Mk2, and I'm playing with the idea of doing a weber conversion. I am at the stage of working out how feasible this is in terms of parts availability. I know that there used to be whole conversions available but, of course, now there aren't... right? Although it does look like there has been a new run of the carbs themselves being produced. I know that the names (DMTR/DMTL) just tell you what side the throttle is on. What do the numbers mean? Guessing venturi size, but what is appropriate for a 1.3 litre engine? I can find an adaptor plate on webcon for £43, but I don't know about any of the rest of the kit (choke cable, air box mounting, studs, etc). What's a good way to go about this? Sorry if I'm asking stuff that's already been answered, there's a couple of old (10 year old) threads, but it looks like things have changed a bit.
  18. POlliffe22

    '88 Breadvan

    This is my first car, a 1988 Polo breadvan. Currently completely stock and my first priority is to sort out the paintwork which has a lot of rusted stonechips and a large patch of rust wjere a previous fuel tank leaked. Bodywork is all solid however in person the laint lacks shine. Eventually i plan to lower the car on different wheels before chasing power however being 17 and having had my licence for less than a month the insurance is already ridiculous without any modifications.
  19. Adim_GTI

    First Project Car

    Consider this my build thread, as the title suggests this is my first project car! I never really intended to own a polo as I was initially planning to buy another golf, but I fell in love with this little coupe after a run around the block in it. Here are a few pics of what I am starting with!
  20. I am currently in the process of rebuilding a small block 1.3, and am having trouble finding anywhere to buy the dome shaped breather that presses into the side of the block. I looked on vwheritage and ebay but had no luck. Does anyone have any idea where I might find one? Thanks, Jordan
  21. So the polo failed it's MOT on a wobbly top mount. I ordered the bits and got hold of some spring compressors. I read in another thread that once the top nuts are off you can jack the car up and the bolt should fall, which it did. The problem now is how to remove the old top mount bushing, it looks like the spring is still pushing up against the bush despite the bolt falling by about 12 cm. The spring compressors I have are about 40cm long, threaded one end and have a socket hole on the other. They're the 2 claw clamps. The only way I can see it working is if the bit you turn, the socket end, is pointing up. Otherwise the threaded bit hits the roof of the wheel well without the jaws doing the compression. I would try to just take the whole strut off but I now cannot get the hub nut off as the car is in the air and I've got not impact wrench, I can't put it on the ground because I can't get the shock bolt back up into the right hole without the spring compressors which I cannot get to work. Am I missing something stupidly obvious with how to use these ruddy spring compressors? Do I just need to get shorter ones? Does anyone have advice for doing the top mounts without removing the struts, the Haynes isn't hugely helpful. I'll attach some pics Cheers in advance, J
  22. Hi all The engine in my mk2 coupe s has just died, need some options for the best replacement. I am guessing that the engine from a mk2f will fit, but don't want to change too much wiring, so would I be able to run the mk2f engine with a carb? Any advice or ideas for good replacements will help. Thanks
  23. Tryna go back in time on my 94, located most pins, the newer style 2f pin has a blue wire and a blue/white wire but my early mk2 clocks have just two blue wires, anyone help with figurin it out? Tried retracing the loom to see if they came from same place but they dont and i dont have an early mk2 loom to follow back Cheers
  24. Hello Iv had some springs made to lower my 1985 polo saloon 100mm ish but it’s still not low enough at the front. Would lowering top caps from the 6n fit my car??
  25. Leaky heater in Mk2. Is this a dashboard out job or can it all be done from the scuttle tray
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