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  1. BenGunn

    Op double the power of the ABD!

    So, As the title suggests, I've set a target and I'm going tonshoot for it. Picked up the Bready in Dec 23. It had an ABD fitted but was running on the 1.0 spi system. Took it to the dyno to see how it was running and surprisingly it was OK. Lambda sensor doing its job and sorting the fuelling. Result of running the 1.0 SPI was great low down torque but out of puff up top. Played with the timing a little and settled on a better ifke abd 61bhp rather than another couple of bhp and a worse idle. Found out the cat was empty which probably helped a bit with the power/torque. Now fitted the correct 1.3 SPI, port matched the inleta little better, a 4-2-1 manifold and have some b2b testing to do on the manifold heater (hedgehog) removal. Aside from this I acquired myself a piper bp300 cam, a spare ABD engine and have begun the strip down to see what's possible. No aftermarket internals available so looking at different options. Most likely current plan is to skim the pistons and deck the block by an equal amount to get the 9.5:1 CR up closer to 11:1. I'll also do some head work and look in to the possibility of larger valves (again nothing off the shelf). I'll add a set of itbs and standalone ecu and hopefully get somewhere near my target. The whole thing would be a lot simpler with the 1.3!!! Some pics below.
  2. Good morning, I've got a 93 mk2f running an ABD, it's on original clocks. I've found a set of clocks with a rev counter from a 93 1.0 aau. Any reason these wouldn't be a straight swap? Thanks
  3. 7zap have begun to charge £50 a year to view part numbers, you can see the exploded diagrams, but not the part numbers. Does anyone know an alternative for Mk2F Coupe GT?
  4. Hi all. I'm currently stripping my car to get it up on a rotisserie and I'm in the process of getting the wiring loom out. I've got the wiring out of the tailgate (and tied on and left string through to pull it back through again)but it's in a sorry state. The wrapping/insulation tape had perished from the wires from the wiper motor all the way to the tailgate grommet, all that's left is the sort of string webbing and sticky bobbly residue of the tape. The wires themselves all look ok although there is a fault somewhere as I've never had a working rear wiper in about 10 years of owning the car. I figure I'll just check/fix that when I get the car put back together as I've already got the engine out and the wiring out as far as the bulkhead in the engine bay. Problem now is I'm wondering how to get the wiring from the tailgate out through the c pillar. I figure the easiest way would be just to take the connectors off label them up and just pull the wires through the grommet and out of the bottom of the c pillar by the rear taillight cluster then reattach the connectors. Is that the best way to go or is there a better way?
  5. Hi I'm attempting to get my 1994 mk2f back on the road and I need to do lots of welding so I've got myself a rotisserie. I've seen a fella called Dan Chambers on YouTube fixing his MK2 using the same jig but I think the mounting points are different on the mk2's . The bolts for the plastic bumpers on my car are way too small to support the weight of the car. Behind the front bumper is the lower front cross member which is bolted on with some bigger bolts which I think will be big enough to support the weight but I'm not sure?! On the rear again the bolts are probably only about M5 and not big enough. I was thinking I might have to cut the body away from the end of the chassis rail and weld some bar/box into the rail and attach the rotisserie bracket to that? The YouTube video had the rotisserie brackets bolted onto the bumper mounts front and back but I don't think it's possible with the mk2f. Anyone had any experience with Polo's on a rotisserie? Or ideas of the strongest place to attach some bar or box section to chassis rails. Or if there's somewhere I could just bolts it on which would be by far the simplest way? Any help/ideas would great Cheers
  6. Hi all, I have a 1991 Mk2f Breadvan GT - and I’m looking for the bulb which lights up the heater control panel. I have managed to get the holder out of the control panel - it’s a small yellow tube with two male connectors attached to it. The only thing written on it is ‘ALBA’ The bulb inside is broken, so I can’t identify it in any way - I have also been researching for hours, but can only seem to find Polo heater control bulbs/holders up to 1990. does anyone have any idea on the type of bulb I need for this? if anyone needs any more info to be able to help, then just let me know. thanks! Jake
  7. JoshKirkaldy

    Mk2f RWD Build

    Welcome to my build thread, I have started with a standard 1.0 4 speed thats being converted into rwd with a complete engine and gearbox swap. Info on what engine and gearbox im using wont be revealed until its completed. I will update as i go along with a lot of parts being made up from scratch and photos of lots of the build parts.
  8. Hi I need to get the tank out of my car so i can weld new sills and probably the edge of the floor (and probably areas around the fuel filler pipe and axle) as after we were flooded the underside of my car is disintegrating. i've already pushed one of the jacking points up by about 10mm (well it just sort of crumbled really) when I had to swap around one of my front wheels as it was split from sitting under a cover for about a year (didn't realise the rust was so bad?!) Where can I use as a jacking point to get my car in the air? I'm thinking I'm gonna end up taking the engine out too as it's done at least 123456 miles (pulled over to take a pic) which will make it lighter and probably taking off and replacing suspension too cos that is also looking really crusty. So eventually it'll be supported on axle stands or even builders trestles and joists (had a Hillman Imp like that for years) I know the tank is hard to get out without removing the rear drivers side wheel so i figure i cant just try and squeeze under the car while it's on the ground. It's in a car port with big wooden joists so i thought about getting a pulley rigged up and trying to lift it onto supports like that but I'm not convinced that's a good idea as I don't want to end up squashed by a car and a heavy wooden carport. I've drained the tank so maybe i just try and do the sills first and leave the tank where it is?! Ive also thought about a rotisserie but thay're not cheap and my wife may kill me if I spend too much money. Any ideas cos I feel like I'm stuck before I've even begun. Cheers Jim
  9. Hi everyone, Signed up to the forum today, so just thought I'd introduce myself. I'm Simon, in my 40s and based in Wiltshire, just bought a really original Polo Mk2F Coupe with a blown engine. Obviously this is a project so I'll be reading all the relevant threads on here and no doubt asking for some advice in due course! Simon
  10. Do we know if anywhere makes a set of clear tailights for a MK2F? Or if anyones made a custom set? I have been looking for a company to custom make some, but unsuccessful thus far. All suggestions welcome 🤝🏻 Pfa
  11. Rhys Durham

    My 1992 Polo Genesis - Build Thread

    So, I found this car on ebay in april with a starting bid of £1000. I looked into the car, and it's MOT history. In the last 18 MOTs held on record it has passed 17 of them first time, with the last failure being in the mid 2010s. The car came with a few modifications. In the ebay description, it said that it had a stainless exhaust from the downpipe, G40 brakes, and Ronal alloy wheels, along with the car being serviced regularly. However the car had a small bump on the front resulting in some visible panel damage. I decided to bid on the car at £1000, and then I watched the bidding very carefully, and to my surprise I won! When I got to the house to collect the car, I was then told the car had also been fitted with coilovers all round, but we're wound up so it wasn't low. I was chuffed with the car, even with the front end damage, and I jumped in and drove the 70 miles home with no problem! I'll upload the photos on the ebay ad when I bought the car.
  12. Hi, apologies if this is a ridiculous question but I need to know if my 1994 Mk2f coupe is carbed or injection. I need to order a new fuel tank and have googled to find out if it's carbed or not to make sure I order the correct part (i was 99% sure it was carbed). But after looking online i've got different anwsers, some saying that all MK2Fs have a basic SPI, others saying that some have carbs some don't etc. Just need to know for sure before I order this fuel tank lol. Cheers.
  13. So I went to start my car this morning And found once it came off cold start it struggled to run. I know the car has always run a bit lean so I'm thinking that it was just not rich enough to run in the cold air. So is there a way to richen up the mixture.
  14. Hi everyone, Had a bit of a mare tonight as my rear exhaust hangers broke and I lost the rubber hangers that hold it on! Have found some online ( https://prostko.co.uk/product/4-x-vw-golf-mk1-mk2-exhaust-rubber-hanger-set-polo-jetta-scirocco-mount-255-853/ ) which are advertised as fitting my polo but not sure on them as they look completely different to the ones that were on the car before I lost them? Anyone had any experience with this before and which ones work, i.e. anyone got a link? Also has anyone in the past needed to add extra support to the hangers as they seem to be pretty flimsy. Thanks, Any replies appreciated! Riley
  15. Hey all, For years our Mk2f has grinded a bit when starting, especially when it was starting from warm - it usually sounded like a bit of a grinding slip just at the end of the starting stroke, presumably when the flywheel was being spun by the started engine and it slipped on the starter motor gear. The grinding is ever-present now, which I assume means if it is indeed due to gear / flywheel teeth wear that its only going to accelerate to the point of no-return. Is there a simple way to check the teeth etc? There's an inspection plate on the gearbox that I've never had off, wondering if its for that reason. Pulling and replacing the starter looks straightforward enough, however it looks like it might be more on the gear / freewheel end of the starter assembly. There's even some 'repair kit' parts listed like number 15 here: https://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/rdw/polo+derby+vento-ind/po/1993-120/9/911-96000/ Perhaps the engaging lever hasn't been fully disconnecting the freewheel gear?
  16. HI all, I've slowly been building my car with aftermarket management (speeduino) in preparation for an AVY swap, however as it stands I have nowhere to setup the engine I have, nor somewhere to conduct the swap. I recently upgraded from the stock SPi setup to CBR600 ITBs using a modified (badly) bike carb manifold from a 6N (ABD engine). This has so far given me an estimated 80hp (on standalone, a 1.8 SPi gave 65~hp) using various virtual dyno softwares. My current head has had a crack ground out, this matched across all cylinders giving a lower compression. After picking up a new head and cam yesterday I'm going to rebuild and skim the head as well as giving it a quick port job as I did on the last. Spec after head swap will be: GT double valve spring head with mild porting, GT cam, CAD designed CF Nylon manifold using dynamic flow testing, CBR600rr ITBs - 38mm with 210cc injectors, Custom trumpets, Standalone management, AEE exhaust manifold to 2" pipe with custom silencer (front bumper exit), Stock AAV bottom end, stock flywheel, 8P gearbox etc. Have seen bike carbed GTs make 90hp, with AAVs making 125hp on dbilas intake and cams. My question is, could my setup, correctly mapped, break the 100hp barrier? I feel the GT cam and exhaust manifold are going to be the main limiting factors. This is purely for my own experimentation, and to make my car a little quicker in the hill. Cheers.
  17. Hi guys! Finally picked up an induction elbow off a MK3 golf for my 2f Polo. I'm in the process of looking for a cone filter and wanted to know if I should measure the inside or outside diameter of the elbow? (Even better if someone already knew it?) Thanks!
  18. Morning all, long time no see. Been somewhat quiet around my Polo for a while, not least because nothing seems to have gone wrong for a long time... the silence is deafening... I'm driving down through France again this summer and as part of my checks i thought it should be about time to have a look at the fuel delivery system, especially seeing as E10 is now here and most of the rubber is OEM still on my Mk2f. I've had the odd hesitation now and again which I've diagnosed as a minor fuel pressure problem (either old pump or likely just a need for a new filter) so have decided to just do the whole lot in one go. Has anyone done this recently? I've bought a few lengths of SAEJ30-R9 fuel hose from CODAN, with my verniers i noticed that the vast majority of lines and connecting barbs want an 8mm ID (or i suppose 7.9mm / 5/16") hose so thats nice and simple. Got some nice stainless hose clips too (the 'jubilee junior' style rather than the worm band type). For the 'sump' (that square filter / fuel reservoir thing) to pump inlet connection the part is a proprietary 10mm to 12mm ID pipe (Part 19 in the diag). Found some guys in Deutschland who make new ones but I've had luck squeezing hose over a slightly oversized barb before with the help of some hot water so going to try some 10mm ID hose. Found a NOS 'original teile' Bosch pump on ebay that i snapped up. The old one sounds like a buzzsaw and almost 30 years of service is probably more than enough to guarantee retirement! As for the supporting bracket (14) the original looks horrendous under the car, and it'd be nice to at least try and refurbish it if so much new stuff is going on. However it doesn't look all that complicated to me - surely some mild sheet steel bent into a sensible shape with homes in the right places for the bush bolts to attach will suffice? Has anyone else knocked up one of these before? Sitting here with a coffee before work it feels like it'll be easy but I can imagine i'll cave and just scrub up and paint the grotty old one when it comes to it! As for the rubber lines in the engine bay the two that concern me are the inlet and outlet lines to the MPI body and the injector (8 and 9). The injector-end of these has two big brass elbow unions that look like they're swaged onto the hoses - I can't find any info on how these were originally connected / whether they're simple to remove and replace etc. The square 'sump' / filter (16) I've found on ebay as an un-branded pattern part for £80 so haven't bought one on a whim yet. I managed to find a picture of one cut open and it has a screen filter that runs between the input/return and the pump side barbs on it. My feeling is as its not cracked it should be fine to keep, perhaps give it a clean in a pot of petrol to see if anything on the screen can be swirled loose. Very little info online about these apart from folks who have cracked them and have found them hard to source. That leaves all of the 'hard' lines that make up the majority of the fuel system - all nylon it feels like. Can i run on the assumption that these can all stay as they are? Thanks for the help!
  19. Hi guys, just got the polo back from the MOT today and it failed due to the rear fog light not working. It appears that there is also no light on the button when you switch it "on". I've checked the bulb, connection to the button and the fuse box (fuse 12 is it?). Not sure what else to try. Any ideas are much appreciated, thanks guys 👍
  20. Hi all, I have acquired a 3F (GT) inlet manifold with rail and injectors, the airbox with MAF, and ECU all for free. I'm looking into what else I'm going to need to convert my SPI system on my AAV, to the MPI system from the 3F. Any help will be appreciated. I know I need an engine loom if anyone has a GT loom for sale, I'm guessing I need a flange that goes on top of the throttle body. But I'm not so sure, if anyone has any diagrams also that would be very helpful! Thanks 🤟🏻
  21. Hi everyone, Looking for an Induction Elbow off a MK3 SPI model Golf for my MK2F Polo 1.3 Cat. Thanks.
  22. For some reason my Polo randomly cut out the other day. It was driving fine but then all of sudden I got no power when I was pressing the accelerator, it felt like no petrol was getting to the engine. The car continued to run but eventually cut out. Since then I have been unable to start it up. The fuel pump seems to be working. I can hear it humming and felt it vibrating when I've turned the engine on. Does anyone have any ideas what it could be?
  23. Hi, As per title. Who is the OEM for Radiators - in-particular G40 Where is a good place to buy one now ? Part no is: 867121253AB And who else makes half decent rads?
  24. Hi, My Mk2F (AAU) has recently had a new water pump, and new coolant "plastic heart". I retained existing blue and black temp sensors as they were showing decent resistances. I also retained my thermostat as it had been fine (VW genuine item, only done about 5000 miles). New o-rings all round. Coolant tests after the work showed no leaks, I got all the airlocks out, coolant level is stable and the bottom hose on the rad only goes warm at ~85 *C on the gauge when the thermostat opens. Radiator fan also operates fine. Car sits pretty at 90 *C on the coolant gauge running around town and along some b-roads. G12+ coolant was used at whatever the bottle says for dilution. Last few days have been very cold outside, and I've had the Polo out on dual carriageways for the first time since the coolant work. Once fully warmed up, and I get her up to 60-70 mph, the temp gauge drops to 80 *C after a couple of minutes, and settles just above 70 *C after, say, 5 min. Years ago I had a thermostat jam full open and the temp gauge went to minimum in a minute or so of fast driving. This is not what is happening now, it is very subtle, and I suspect either a very small opening in the thermostat even when "closed", or no problem. Before I open her coolant system up and swap in a new stat. i) Has anyone else had this happen? ii) Could my block just be getting aircooled by 70 mph wind in freezing conditions? iii) I have read the plastic hearts can be damaged. My replacement one (gen VW off a donor engine) looked pristine (to me) after I'd cleaned it up. Can a damaged heart cause a thermostat to leak past or fail open, is it obvious if there's damage in this region? Cheers
  25. I've just purchased a Panasonic CQ-K05FNV Single Din Radio for my VW Polo MK2f 1993. I thought that it would be straight plug a play but it seems the cables in my car do not fit the back of the radio. Is this the correct radio for my car and are there any adapters that I can buy to make it fit. Pictures to follow...
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