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  1. HI all, I've slowly been building my car with aftermarket management (speeduino) in preparation for an AVY swap, however as it stands I have nowhere to setup the engine I have, nor somewhere to conduct the swap. I recently upgraded from the stock SPi setup to CBR600 ITBs using a modified (badly) bike carb manifold from a 6N (ABD engine). This has so far given me an estimated 80hp (on standalone, a 1.8 SPi gave 65~hp) using various virtual dyno softwares. My current head has had a crack ground out, this matched across all cylinders giving a lower compression. After picking up a new head and cam yesterday I'm going to rebuild and skim the head as well as giving it a quick port job as I did on the last. Spec after head swap will be: GT double valve spring head with mild porting, GT cam, CAD designed CF Nylon manifold using dynamic flow testing, CBR600rr ITBs - 38mm with 210cc injectors, Custom trumpets, Standalone management, AEE exhaust manifold to 2" pipe with custom silencer (front bumper exit), Stock AAV bottom end, stock flywheel, 8P gearbox etc. Have seen bike carbed GTs make 90hp, with AAVs making 125hp on dbilas intake and cams. My question is, could my setup, correctly mapped, break the 100hp barrier? I feel the GT cam and exhaust manifold are going to be the main limiting factors. This is purely for my own experimentation, and to make my car a little quicker in the hill. Cheers.
  2. Hi guys! Finally picked up an induction elbow off a MK3 golf for my 2f Polo. I'm in the process of looking for a cone filter and wanted to know if I should measure the inside or outside diameter of the elbow? (Even better if someone already knew it?) Thanks!
  3. Morning all, long time no see. Been somewhat quiet around my Polo for a while, not least because nothing seems to have gone wrong for a long time... the silence is deafening... I'm driving down through France again this summer and as part of my checks i thought it should be about time to have a look at the fuel delivery system, especially seeing as E10 is now here and most of the rubber is OEM still on my Mk2f. I've had the odd hesitation now and again which I've diagnosed as a minor fuel pressure problem (either old pump or likely just a need for a new filter) so have decided to just do the whole lot in one go. Has anyone done this recently? I've bought a few lengths of SAEJ30-R9 fuel hose from CODAN, with my verniers i noticed that the vast majority of lines and connecting barbs want an 8mm ID (or i suppose 7.9mm / 5/16") hose so thats nice and simple. Got some nice stainless hose clips too (the 'jubilee junior' style rather than the worm band type). For the 'sump' (that square filter / fuel reservoir thing) to pump inlet connection the part is a proprietary 10mm to 12mm ID pipe (Part 19 in the diag). Found some guys in Deutschland who make new ones but I've had luck squeezing hose over a slightly oversized barb before with the help of some hot water so going to try some 10mm ID hose. Found a NOS 'original teile' Bosch pump on ebay that i snapped up. The old one sounds like a buzzsaw and almost 30 years of service is probably more than enough to guarantee retirement! As for the supporting bracket (14) the original looks horrendous under the car, and it'd be nice to at least try and refurbish it if so much new stuff is going on. However it doesn't look all that complicated to me - surely some mild sheet steel bent into a sensible shape with homes in the right places for the bush bolts to attach will suffice? Has anyone else knocked up one of these before? Sitting here with a coffee before work it feels like it'll be easy but I can imagine i'll cave and just scrub up and paint the grotty old one when it comes to it! As for the rubber lines in the engine bay the two that concern me are the inlet and outlet lines to the MPI body and the injector (8 and 9). The injector-end of these has two big brass elbow unions that look like they're swaged onto the hoses - I can't find any info on how these were originally connected / whether they're simple to remove and replace etc. The square 'sump' / filter (16) I've found on ebay as an un-branded pattern part for £80 so haven't bought one on a whim yet. I managed to find a picture of one cut open and it has a screen filter that runs between the input/return and the pump side barbs on it. My feeling is as its not cracked it should be fine to keep, perhaps give it a clean in a pot of petrol to see if anything on the screen can be swirled loose. Very little info online about these apart from folks who have cracked them and have found them hard to source. That leaves all of the 'hard' lines that make up the majority of the fuel system - all nylon it feels like. Can i run on the assumption that these can all stay as they are? Thanks for the help!
  4. Hi guys, just got the polo back from the MOT today and it failed due to the rear fog light not working. It appears that there is also no light on the button when you switch it "on". I've checked the bulb, connection to the button and the fuse box (fuse 12 is it?). Not sure what else to try. Any ideas are much appreciated, thanks guys 👍
  5. Rhys Durham

    My 1992 Polo Genesis - Build Thread

    So, I found this car on ebay in april with a starting bid of £1000. I looked into the car, and it's MOT history. In the last 18 MOTs held on record it has passed 17 of them first time, with the last failure being in the mid 2010s. The car came with a few modifications. In the ebay description, it said that it had a stainless exhaust from the downpipe, G40 brakes, and Ronal alloy wheels, along with the car being serviced regularly. However the car had a small bump on the front resulting in some visible panel damage. I decided to bid on the car at £1000, and then I watched the bidding very carefully, and to my surprise I won! When I got to the house to collect the car, I was then told the car had also been fitted with coilovers all round, but we're wound up so it wasn't low. I was chuffed with the car, even with the front end damage, and I jumped in and drove the 70 miles home with no problem! I'll upload the photos on the ebay ad when I bought the car.
  6. Hi all, I have acquired a 3F (GT) inlet manifold with rail and injectors, the airbox with MAF, and ECU all for free. I'm looking into what else I'm going to need to convert my SPI system on my AAV, to the MPI system from the 3F. Any help will be appreciated. I know I need an engine loom if anyone has a GT loom for sale, I'm guessing I need a flange that goes on top of the throttle body. But I'm not so sure, if anyone has any diagrams also that would be very helpful! Thanks 🤟🏻
  7. Hi everyone, Looking for an Induction Elbow off a MK3 SPI model Golf for my MK2F Polo 1.3 Cat. Thanks.
  8. For some reason my Polo randomly cut out the other day. It was driving fine but then all of sudden I got no power when I was pressing the accelerator, it felt like no petrol was getting to the engine. The car continued to run but eventually cut out. Since then I have been unable to start it up. The fuel pump seems to be working. I can hear it humming and felt it vibrating when I've turned the engine on. Does anyone have any ideas what it could be?
  9. Hi, As per title. Who is the OEM for Radiators - in-particular G40 Where is a good place to buy one now ? Part no is: 867121253AB And who else makes half decent rads?
  10. Hi, My Mk2F (AAU) has recently had a new water pump, and new coolant "plastic heart". I retained existing blue and black temp sensors as they were showing decent resistances. I also retained my thermostat as it had been fine (VW genuine item, only done about 5000 miles). New o-rings all round. Coolant tests after the work showed no leaks, I got all the airlocks out, coolant level is stable and the bottom hose on the rad only goes warm at ~85 *C on the gauge when the thermostat opens. Radiator fan also operates fine. Car sits pretty at 90 *C on the coolant gauge running around town and along some b-roads. G12+ coolant was used at whatever the bottle says for dilution. Last few days have been very cold outside, and I've had the Polo out on dual carriageways for the first time since the coolant work. Once fully warmed up, and I get her up to 60-70 mph, the temp gauge drops to 80 *C after a couple of minutes, and settles just above 70 *C after, say, 5 min. Years ago I had a thermostat jam full open and the temp gauge went to minimum in a minute or so of fast driving. This is not what is happening now, it is very subtle, and I suspect either a very small opening in the thermostat even when "closed", or no problem. Before I open her coolant system up and swap in a new stat. i) Has anyone else had this happen? ii) Could my block just be getting aircooled by 70 mph wind in freezing conditions? iii) I have read the plastic hearts can be damaged. My replacement one (gen VW off a donor engine) looked pristine (to me) after I'd cleaned it up. Can a damaged heart cause a thermostat to leak past or fail open, is it obvious if there's damage in this region? Cheers
  11. I've just purchased a Panasonic CQ-K05FNV Single Din Radio for my VW Polo MK2f 1993. I thought that it would be straight plug a play but it seems the cables in my car do not fit the back of the radio. Is this the correct radio for my car and are there any adapters that I can buy to make it fit. Pictures to follow...
  12. Joined the hard shoulder club yesterday, first time i've ever broken down on a motorway which was an experience... Safely managed to get out of trouble and after a very cold hour at the side of the road managed to get put on the back of a truck and the polo is back on my drive now. We were cruising at 60 and all of a sudden I noticed our speed dropping - no jolt or judder, nothing to suggest any sudden change apart from the revs and the speed needles dropping. Pumped the gas and the revs didn't change so I popped the hazards on. Warning lights (oil and battery lights) came on. Pumped the brakes and still had vacuum to the servo (thank god), so popped it out of gear and coasted along the hard shoulder to a soft stop. Tried the ignition and the starter and engine turned over but no dice so called for recovery. Yet to venture outside into the cold and have a look this morning but a brief look with a torch when it was on the truck last night didn't find anyting catastrophic visually, no fluid loss or anything obviously out the ordinary. Before we waslked onto the grass verge I briefly checked under the hood and both belts are on - no snapped cambelt or v belt. So my guess is its electrical as its been absolutely fine for ages - if it was a fuel pump failing I would have assumed something would have been going wrong slowly before giving up the ghost but you never know. Its had a new tank for about a year so i doubt a big lump of rust is blocking the filter or the pump screen. Anything else good to check apart from these? Spark test on crank over Fuel pressure (got no way of doing that passively so I'll just look for a squirt from the SPI when cranking) Alternator test (I remember a procedure from a thread on here - something about continuity and resistance across the coil) Alternator cables, continuity etc Of course if it starts now its cold then there'll be something more subtle going on but my money is on the alternator. Any suggestions would be very welcome!
  13. so I've got a 085 ceh and I'm pretty sure i stripped a synchro or a few of them. but haven't been able to find gears or synchro for sale any help would be appreciated.
  14. Hi all, Just fitted a new ignition coil after my 1993 Breadvan wouldn't start. RAC man came out to check the voltages at different points and found it to be a faulty ignition coil, hence why the new part was fitted. However, when I went to start it up again, it still didn't work. The engine turns over but it just isn't turning on? Has anyone got any advice from past experiences or knowledge about this? Thanks.
  15. BernieTheBreadvan

    92 CL Coupe 1.3 5speed

    Pick this absolute weapon up just recently for a price I couldn't say no to.. the plan was to give it a quick flip. But I now want it for myself and its a little worse for wear so profit ain't gonna happen and its a crime to part such a great wee car. So....say hello to my next project! Need to sort the whole front end out. Slam panel, both front cross members and a new grill needed. Nice matching interior would be great too. So, if you're in northern ireland and have a decent interior, let me now please. Oh, and it's just a 55bhp I think with 103k miles and a fancy little K&N bolt on air filter. John.
  16. I'm soon to be replacing rear drums and shoes, and that means new wheel bearing races going into the new drums. I've seen the bearing guide in the FAQ and read Haynes. I have also seen guides online where people put the races in a freezer, and heat the drum bearing hole with a heat gun/hair dryer or put the drum in an oven. The thermal contraction/expansion negates the interference fit, so the races just drop in and then when all returns to normal temp its nice and tight. Has anyone had any joy, or horror, with the thermal method?
  17. Hi there, I'm assembling an 1.3 MH engine from a 91 mk2 (chassis number 80-M-xxxxxx). I found a 92 mk2F having a 1.3 MH which has a lower mileage and a better condition head than the former. I'm considering to restore and use the latter MH engine in my mk2 or at least use the mk2F head with my mk2 cylinder block. I can see some differences between the 2 engines though. So I wanted to get your opinions and help to clear my doubts (feel free to correct my English, I hope I'm improving). Camshaft and crankshaft pulley and water pump : - Those one the mk2F have more teeth than those of the mk2. So I believe the tuple camshaft pulley, crankshaft pulley, water pump should always have the same kind of teeth in order to use the right toothed belt (should I just say timing belt). I was expecting my mk2 to have the same pulley than the mk2F because its chassis number but that was not the case... - So if I wanted to only use the mk2F head on the mk2, I just need to use the mk2 camshaft pulley. Am I right ? Water pump and thermostat and radiator : - The mk2F thermostat and radiator are different from the mk2. For example the mk2F has a hose from the coolant reservoir to the thermostat whereas the same hose goes to the radiator on the mk2. I'm not sure if the heater hoses are the the same. - Can I use the mk2F engine but using the mk2 thermostat and radiator ? The mk2F coolant reservoir mounting is completely different from the mk2's. I also wonder if there would be a cooling performance benefit using the cooling parts of the mk2F here. I believe the water pumps have quite the same performance even if they have different teeth types (one would run a little faster than the other ?). Even though I think keeping most of the mk2 compatible parts around the mk2F engine would be better to make the engine bay look more genuine and less confusing.
  18. So I'm looking at renewing suspension bushes on my Mk2F breadvan... I'm confused over the front suspension control arm inner bush, Number 18 on this diagram. https://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/rdw/polo+derby+vento-ind/po/1991-120/4/411-32000/ 7Zap shows two versions (ignoring the G40), with different part numbers for #18 18 823 407 181 bonded rubber bush 2 HZ,2G,NZ,AAU 1W,3F,AAV, ACM (18) 861 407 181 bonded rub mount, adjustable X HZ,2G,NZ,AAU 1W,3F,AAV, ACM I manage to find both part numbers online 861 xxx xxx https://www.heritagepartscentre.com/uk/861407181-adjustable-front-control-arm-outer-bush.html 823 xxx xxx https://www.heritagepartscentre.com/uk/823407181-front-control-arm-outer-bush.html and think "what the hell, I'll just order 2 of both types, that way I'm covered if I disassemble the old ones and find the car is currently using one type or the other" Parts arrive, and the supposed 861- part, the genuine VW one, looks exactly as per the picture from the supplier but on the rubber bush itself is stamped the 823- number. The supposed 823- part is smaller in both length and diameter, has no markings on it, and came in a bag that had BOTH part numbers on it. Now clearly, these two parts are not interchangeable, and I'm confused. I think there's no way the smaller one could fit, but I can't tell for sure without taking the control arm off and removing (destroying) the old bushes = bad idea. The smaller one also looks less domed than it's online advert pic, so I'm not sure if it's been picked, or advertised, correctly. In addition, one of the big bushes has a chunk of its metal knurling missing, the casting or machining is defective enough to "tilt" the bush a few degrees which sounds like a bad idea for suspension components. So I'm probably going to have to return at least some of the parts. My questions are: i) What is a proper polo MK2F control arm inner bush supposed to look like? Any idea on dimensions? ii) What is the difference between the two 7zap parts, what does "adjustable" mean in this sense? I thought the bush just presses into the control arm and then a bolt runs through the bush's metal tube and chassis mounts = no adjustment possible. iii) Is the 861- part which has an "x" on 7zap defunct/superseded by the 823-? iv) Even if I can source these bushes correctly, is it easier to just buy a whole new control arm with bushes pre-installed (I had just painted my existing CA's so had decided to just buy the bushes). My plan was to undo each bush in turn, press out with a suitable vice/screw press and tube adaptors, soap up and press in the new bushes, re-bolt to vehicle, undo other side and repeat etc. But a new CA comes with a new ball joint, might be best to refresh everything at once? Thanks, Bread
  19. Hi all, I want to remove the oil dipstick tube on 1.3 55hp engine (carb). It seems quite tight but I don't know if I should just pull it or turn it anti-clockwise before pulling or else. I don't want to break the tube since it's not easy to find.
  20. See my clubg40 post: Hesitancy / Misfire 1500rpm-2k COLD only (polog40.co.uk) Fairly stock G40 which when cold, first 2miles or so, produces a real hesitancy around 1500-2k. Higher rpm's seem to sort it - like it's forcing the engine to fix itself. Warm engine sorts it too. This leads me to thinking it would be the blue temp sender as that is temp dependant, but it isn't. To my knowledge spark side is ok: Coil - Cap - Arm - Leads - Plugs
  21. Hi all, I'm looking for an equivalent to part VW 861 412 319 for my polo mk2 (1991 not a mk2F). The part is called front suspension top stop or something which sound like that. The part is quite rare and a bit expensive. I've found some on commercial sites and often they're out of stock. What I'm looking for is if I can use similar part from other polo generation or other vw models which fits with the polo mk2. I've seen pictures of the ones installed on polo 6N and golf mk2. It seems they look quite different and since I don't have one I can't confirm if their dimensions really fit with the polo mk2 I've asked the same question on other forums but didn't get responses. This is a picture of the part (found online)
  22. genesisjimmy

    Kalahari beige

    Hi all Had my mk2f (mk3) since 2012 as my daily driver and it's been on the road since then apart from once.
  23. genesisjimmy

    Hi all

    HI all My name is Jim and I live just outside Northampton. Had my polo for about 8 years but the rust is winning so I'm now fixing the that. http://imgur.com/a/5LZLVXi
  24. Hello all. I've recently purchased a 93 1.3Spi breadvan. I am currently having issues with poor idle when cold. The ignition timing is currently set to about 25 degrees before TDC. I have tried setting the ignition timing to 5 +/- 1 BTDC as per a Haynes manual. When this is done it will run when Hot but hesitant to Rev. But when engine is cold it will not idle or sometimes start unless I revert back to the original timing. It has recently had new: Plugs, dizzy, coil, HT leads, Blue temp sensor, lambda, fuel pump, filters. I have checked for the correct resistance on all the components on the throttle body and Blue temp sensor and all are within spec. i have checked all wires going to the ECU for breaks. I have also verified that the engine is timed correctly. After all of this I can still not set ignition timing correctly. Any suggestions will be much appreciated.
  25. Hi, I have a stuck piston in one rear wheel cylinder, so will be replacing it. I have a question about the sub-types of cylinder. There are different sizes, my car has no brake balance controller so needs the "A" subtext part, 15.87 mm piston. VW dealer confirmed this with my reg number. 6 1H0 611 053 A wheel brake cylinder 15,87 FAG https://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/rdw/polo+derby+vento-ind/po/1991-120/6/609-37000/ However various online suppliers have subtle differences for 1H0 611 053A: i) Aluminium or cast iron body (the aluminium is stated as new implementation by FEBI) https://partsfinder.bilsteingroup.com/en_US/article/febi/06098 ii) Depending on where you look, the wheel cylinders have one or two mounting screw holes (to screw them to the backplate). This is weird as in the VW 7zap diagrams, it says Qty 2 for wheel cylinders (one for each side of the car), but also Qty 2 for bolts, i.e. one bolt per cylinder. My current setup on the car has two bolts per cylinder; there's two holes in the backplate. Does anyone have any experience of different material cylinders or bolt patterns? My gut feeling is to stick with 2 bolts per cylinder as that's what I have at the moment, if one bolt wasn't used then potentially water could splash through the hole in the backplate and trickle down any minute gap between the back of the cylinder and backplate. Also Aluminium is softer and there's more chance of damaging a thread when undoing bleed nipples or the brake line fitting. I'm also keen to avoid corrosion of dissimilar metals if the piston is a different metal to the cylinder, however I don't know what the pistons themselves are made of. Any advice or experience appreciated. Thanks, Bread
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