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Found 11 results

  1. I have a mk4 Polo which has had a break pad warning light on for years. Break pads regularly checked and deemed good, so put down to a wiring fault. Car had cam belt replaced about a year ago, plus relatively new battery. It runs well but changes to MOT rules now include warning lights. Any suggestions on cost of sorting wiring fault, as seems a shame to scrap a good car.
  2. A couple of MOT's back I got a corrosion advisory for O/S beam mount near the fuel filler area. I Aquasteeled it up and it wasn't detected at the last MOT at a different garage (good sign, right?). The whole arch is rotten now; the skins are separating and the GT arch trim fell off somewhere never to be seen again. How bad does the beam mount have to get to fail an MOT and is it an expensive welding repair?
  3. Another MOT question for you guys. My 6n has quite a large rusty hole in the spare wheel well and I would love some insight into whether this will fail its MOT next month. I’ve stupidly not paid much attention to it for the best part of a year and it’s now time to start worrying. Terrible pics attached. Rust hole can be seen on the left of the second one in relation to suspension and stuff.
  4. PHIL SWARBRICK

    Copper fuel lines

    Can I run copper tubing as fuel line and expect it to pass an MOT? The only issues I can see is the possible work hardening of the coper, spacing of clips to support it and the possible damage it could get if stones hit it or the car "grounds out" on to the tubing. I was planning to just use the copper tubing on straight runs and the rubber hose everywhere else. Also I was thinking of soldering on hose tails on the end of the copper for that extra hose security. I think MOT testers like to see hose/tubing supported every 300mm.
  5. My aex polo has been Really loud since I bought it. Doesn’t bother me and sounds nice going through tunnels, however The mot is coming up next month and I’m worried it won’t pass on this. ive been under the car with a bit of hose and can’t seem to find any exhaust leak, but I suspect the inside of my backbox has completely rusted out. It rattles a lot when I Shake it, sounds like a bag of peas. Would I need to replace the backbox to pass an mot or is it only leaks they’re checking for? Cheers
  6. Hi all, Haven't been around for a while for various reasons, but I could really use some help please. Last Wednesday I took my 6N for it's annual MOT and it failed because the Engine Management Light didn't flick on and off when the ignition is turned on. I've checked the owners manual and, although I can see the symbol on the instrument panel, it's not in the manual. It's not in the Haynes either. And it's never come on as long as I've had the car. I've just been on the phone with the tester and he said all cars have one, so I'm not sure what to do. Does anyone know definitively if there's this light and if so is it fixable? I really need my car back as I've got to go to the hospital on Thursday and I'm really annoyed that my otherwise safe and roadworthy car has failed because of one light that I've never seen! Any help gratefully received! Fen. P. S: wasn't sure where best to post this topic so if it's in the wrong place apologies.
  7. Hi guys I've owned my 6N2 for two years now and he's a fantastic car. We've done 10k+ miles and he's never missed a beat .. until now. In March he failed the MOT on emissions (running rich) but the garage mechanics couldn't say why - it looks like it may be a lambda sensor. The only code we've had off him since then (which comes up intermittently) is 17574 - 'Long Term Fuel Trim: Additional Air Bank 1: Range 2 System Too Rich' - P1166. Anyway, I've got a couple of jobs on him that need doing but haven't got any mechanically-minded friends. I'm in Bristol but obviously can't drive him far as he's not got an MOT (and therefore tax/insurance are invalid). I need someone (local, unless you are happy to travel!) with free time to come and work on him. I'm happy to pay for parts and time, obviously . Briefly, I think what's needed is a new clutch and lambda sensor (to get him MOT-ready) and then in addition I've got some service parts that need installing (spark plugs, fuel and oil filters, air filter). Any help ASAP would be amazing - please get in touch if you fancy saving a really good car. :'(
  8. Hi all, I just became the owner of a polo mk2f boulevard 1.0 and wanted to ask a more general question regards dashboards and MOT's I see that MOT now requires no warning lights etc but I wanted to ask a more general question regarding whats required for a dashboard itself. Can I rip my entire dashboard out and leave the dials and still pass an MOT or are there some requirements about having parts of a dashboard? (Why am I asking this? because I have an idea but don't want to proceed with it if it would invalidate the MOT) Sam.
  9. Good Morning, my name is Paul, I'm a new member to this forum. My daughters year 2000 Polo Gti had its MOT yesterday, but it failed on the emissions These were the details on the MOT failure sheet: 001 Exhaust emissions carbon monoxide content at idle excessive (7.3.D.4) 002 Exhaust emissions carbon monoxide content after 2nd fast idle excessive (7.3.D.3) 003 Exhaust emissions lambda reading after 2nd fast idle outside specified limits (7.3.D.3) Emissions Test Sheet as follows: See attachment below. Any help would be so much appreciated, I've got an OBD II code reader if this is any help. I would like to fix this myself if possible, i generally do all the maintenance on our vehicles myself, its just the emissions seem to be a hard one. Have a good day Many thanks Paul
  10. Hey all, My little old R-reg is up for MOT in a month, and after overlooking it myself the only problem I've found is the exhaust. I can't tell if this is the original clamp between the two exhaust sections or if someone has fixed it - shoddily if so. The attached images show where the split is, it's at the SYA8 clamp. Clearly, this is gonna be an MOT fail, you can really hear it as soon as you start the engine, and there's quite a lot of fumes coming through the gap. The car is only worth a few hundred quid, and replacing the whole exhaust section probably isn't worth it. So my question is whether it's feasible to fix this myself - for cheap - and if so, how? Cheers guys.
  11. Hi all, I'm having trouble getting my 6N1 1.0L Polo through ithe MOT test! It has done about 125k miles. It has failed on me twice now, both times on emissions. First time round my catalityc converter seemed to be broken down, it was an old one it had on it when I bought it a year ago. The readings that time round were as follows: Engine oil temperature: 83 Deg C Fast Idle Test: FAILED Engine Speed: 2450-2850 rpm MANUAL CHECK Pass CO: 0.614% % Fail HC: 459 ppm Fail lambda: 1.112 Fail Second Fast Idle Test: FAILED Engine Speed: 2450-2850 rpm MANUAL CHECK Pass CO: 0.687% Fail HC: 565 ppm Fail lambda: 1.113 Fail Natural Idle Test: Engine Speed: 550-850 Pass CO: 0.496% Pass When I took it for the retest after fitting a new catalytic converter on the readings were actually worse! Engine oil temperature: 62 Deg C Fast Idle Test: FAILED Engine Speed: 2450-2850 rpm MANUAL CHECK Pass CO: 0.800% Fail HC: 823 ppm Fail lambda: 1.213 Fail Second Fast Idle Test: FAILED Engine Speed: 2450-2850 rpm MANUAL CHECK Pass CO: 0.869% Fail HC: 477 ppm Fail lambda: 1.106 Fail Natural Idle Test: Engine Speed: 550-850 Pass CO: 0.489% Pass The guy at the MOT Centre said it seemed to have a slight misfire and that it was burning some oil. About a month ago, before both tests, my Polo had a serious misfire. I found one of the spark leads had gone so I replaced the spark plugs and leads with new ones, this seemed to solve the problem. At the time, I noticed the crankcase breather was full of oily sludge and it had made its way into the air box. I cleaned the box replaced the air filter. Over the weekend I got under the car and check for any exhaust leaks, made sure the new cat was attached correctly to the rest of the exhaust system, I reinspected the airbox and found no sludge in the crankcase breather. I also gave the car a good old italian tune up as well, just in case. I find the trouble with the emissions failure is that solving it seems to involve a lot of fault hunting! My next course of action is a change of oil to a slightly thicker gradient and new oil and fuel filters as it could be the case that the oil is making its way past the piston rings... What are your thoughts on this? Really hope I get to the bottom of this one! Cheers guys! Melo
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