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Found 19 results

  1. My dipstick levels have always been up and down for the past 4 years - can a blocked crankcase breather cause this? Always checked when car is level. Also, I've always run the dipstick to show the hatched area upwards when pulled out, but when inserted 'upside-down' the level shows halfway down in comparison - a big difference to get right: what's the correct orientation? (I keep it topped up but have recently been running a little lower in case I'm unknowingly overfilling - but then it runs noisy. It's currently about 5-7mm over the hatched area and runs fine - might be overfilled but presumed inaccurate..)
  2. Hi what gearbox oil grade do I need for 2001 polo 9n 1.4 TDI PD (Sports), engine code AMF. Is it worth buying from euro car parts or should I just buy from VW dealers? thanks
  3. Hi all, please remove if required. 1.2 55hp AWY engine. Recently I had a misfire. I suspected that one of the coil packs so ordered new ones with new spark plugs. While waiting for these, today I started the car and heard a little knocking noise with oil level being low. Topped up oil knocking was gone. Took out the spark plugs and noticed oil coming out through spark plug in cylinder 3. Someone can shed me some light on whats wrong? Cheers
  4. So after doing a 180 mile trip last Sunday, I didn't check my oil, I checked it this evening and there was no oil what so ever on the dipstick. Now I topped the oil up about 3 to 4 weeks ago as I saw it was low and carried on driving etc, untill I checked it today. I Do not see any kind of leak, and there is no smoke. I have put more oil back in but only just halfway on the min and max. And I also out cardboard under the car for tonight. As I have work at 6am. Any idea as to where my oil went? Or is it normal for a vw polo to go through that much oil on just 180 mile trip?
  5. Hello everyone. This is my first post here and I can say that I came here for a desperate situation that I've been through in the last days. So my car is a 2000 6n2 gti 1.6 16v engine and I bought it last year. Everything ok at the beginning until one day (about 2 months after I bought it) I noticed the clutch was slipping a bit (the car had 4 people and luggage) . So I always thought that soon I would need a new clutch. In the past couple weeks I was having fun with some mates at the roadway and after that, the clutch started to whine (nothing super loud, radio could perfectly "cover" that noise). Yesterday night I got in my car, I put the 1st gear and some metallic noises started to come from the clutch (not sure if it's the clutch) and my car lost a lot of power specially on hills (clutch slipping). Now I try to drive it and it's almost impossible, the noise it's incredibly loud, everything cracks down there and everytime I change a gear, it vibrates a lot. Now even on neutral, it whines loud and I looked under the car and it's leaking oil from the clutch housing hole (not a lot, some black drops) when the engine is running. So, yea, I think it's easy to conclude that my clutch is completely fried and I need a new one, but what about the oil? Where does it come from? Is the gearbox done for good? Take note that since I turned off my car the last time I cannot put any gear, even whit the clutch pedal pressed. Any tip, advice, technical information would be greatly appreciated. Sorry about my English. Best regards from Lisbon - Portugal Ricardo :)
  6. Hi, I recently changed my oil pressure switch originally it was flashing with the ignition on (car wouldn’t start at this point), so now with the new switch - no flashing on ignition. However now it runs to some extent the oil light is flashing when the engines running, I did just change the oil filter today so was wondering if this could be something to do with it or how could I stop it? Cheap sensor? Thanks!
  7. NebulaicToaster

    Head gasket advice

    I'm about to get the head off because of a leak above the alternator. Stupid question do I need to drain all the oil, the Haynes manual doesn't tell you to under head removal and there's no water in it. I know the coolant has to go. Also I'm getting the head skimmed, should I whack some cling film over the cavity to avoid dust and such getting in while the head is off. How do I make sure the timing belt goes back in the right place? And finally any advice for fitting the new gasket, it's a rubber elring job? Cheers J
  8. Not sure what engine oil to buy have been told semi synthetic but I don’t know what te numbers mean as I’m new to cars. Any help would be great. Cheers :) i have a 1989 mk2 polo s 1.3L Petrol.
  9. Just wondering if 5w30 semi synthetic oil is okay to use in my polo? If not what oil is best? Thanks Jack
  10. I have 1993 mk2f 1ltr with 50,000 miles and the oil light and buzzer alarm come on at 2000rpm and stay on till I turn engine off. Oil I use is 10w40 I only have one oil pressure switch on the back of the head. So your help be good please. I assume I need replace the oil pressure switch ?
  11. Hello, I've recently got an ABD up and running in the mk3 (2f) polo. The block is an ABD, rehoned, washed out, new rings and bearings. The head is the ABD one, casting marks and sharp inner radius to valves smoothed out. GT cam, new valve oil seals and various other seals. Gt injection set up. It seems to run well but once up to temperature, when accelerating in the medium to high revs, the oil light starts to flash. If I lower the revs it might go off but it will come back on in medium revs, after a while it will just stay on and only go off if I turn the ignition off and start it back up again. None of it appears to affect the performance, just the oil light comes on and I can't figure out why So far I've: Tested the oil pressure - around 0.25 bar at idle, around 1.8 bar at 2000rpm and doesn't rise above that with higher revs. Replaced both oil pressure sensors, seperately, neither made a difference. Chopped off old pressure sensor wiring connectors, stripped wire back and fitted new ones. Checked the oil breather pipes for kinks and blockages - cleaned the seperator on the block during rebuild. None of this has solved the issue. If I ground the yellow wire (high oil pressure I believe) then the light wont come on at all. Only issue is I've tried both old and new sensors and the problem comes back. The old sensor is off my AAV engine and is 1.4 +/- 0.2 bar, the new one is 1.8 +/- 0.2 bar from ECP. It may be related or it may not but I cant get it to idle perfectly either, sometimes it will idle around the 920 area but other times more like 1000 - 1100. I've done ignition and idle to the GT timing guide on here but had to wind the idle screw down as far as it would go. Ignition timing is spot on. Another thing is the two white wires for the lambda probe pulled out their socket and both being white I'm not sure which way round they're meant to be so I've had to put them back without knowing if they're the right way round, is there a multimeter test I can do to figure that out? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you. Joe.
  12. Hi all, I've had my 53 plate VW Polo 1.2 for a couple of months now. Very occasionally I do a hour and a half drive and all of my oil disappears - I suspect my car is burning it, but it only does this after I've done this drive. When I got there it was almost empty, so after I filled it up and came home, it was empty again. In total I've topped it up 3 litres. A friend told me it could be my piston rings but I'm unsure as to what it could be. Thanks.
  13. Hi guys, first post here so I'm hoping you guys can help me out! :) Just bought a 1988 polo coupe s 1.3 (haven't looked at the engine code yet). When I bought it last week i knew it had a big oil leak which I have diagnosed as the head gasket as it weeps out now I've cleaned it on the front corner of the engine. I've had it 6 days and didn't start driving it till yesterday. Drove it 15 miles to get to college and it was fine until I got round the corner and the oil light came on. After college I got about 5 miles out of it on the way home before it did this again. There is plenty of oil in it (even with the big leak) and it hasn't seized yet. drove it another 20-30 miles after than and then 15 miles today. Light is coming on when engine is warm and over 2000 rPM which would suggest the oil pressure switch. I've tried changing the secondary switch, removing the wire and this hasn't fixed it. I'm not sure the switch I put on was the right pressure rating but even so I thought it would work. I would rather avoid taking the clocks and stuff out as I'd like to deal with this properly just in case the oil pressure is a little low. I'm worried it might be a little low the oil leak. Since buying the car I've topped up about 4 litres so it'd leaking/burning oil at a rapid rate. Also to diagnose the head gasket leak I steam cleaned the engine bay and it struggled to start. I've wiped down the internals of the distributor cap. However at idle it's running a little rough.... So we can all agree it's got a lot of work to do but any ideas what the oil light could be? And what I could do to make it runbetter? I'm planning on doing the head gasket on Friday/the weekend And whilst doing so ill be doing the oil filter, rocker cover gasket, water pump and cambelt, might even do the sump gasket. Any advice will be much appreciated. Cheers guys
  14. Hey guys, It's time for an oil change on ours as it's getting a bit noisy. I've searched this forum and others, and the recommendation seems to be for 75w/90 oil - which is fine. On the 020 boxes I'm a little more used to dealing with, noise/grinding/general debauchery can be pretty well dealt with by using Redline MTL (75w/80) - which I've used before with good results. http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-1019-red-line-synthetic-manual-transmission-lubricant-mtl-75w-80-gl4.aspx My question is, would the 05x (can't remember the number off hand) gearbox in the 6n2 benefit from this? Or, should I stick with stock 75w/90? Alternatively, has anyone tried Redline MT-90? http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-1020-red-line-synthetic-manual-transmission-90-mt90-75w-90-gl4.aspx Any help/advice/abuse would be appreciated :)
  15. I'm currently putting a 1.3 engine from a mk2 golf into my polo (I think it is a 2G) There is a nipple on the head which started chucking oil out when I first got it to turn over. I it is plugged up at the moment whilst I get other stuff sorted but I don't believe this will do the engine any good as I imagine it is some sort of pressure relief. Does anyone know what it is actually for and where should it go? Thanks in advance, James here is a picture of said nipple. I'm posting from my iPad so I can't put one on the post for some reason, sorry. http://s28.postimg.org/77gn1jq65/image.jpg
  16. Hitchesbehating

    Polo 2003 Burning Oil

    I have a 2003 Polo 9n with the 1.2 3 cylinder engine, a few months ago I had the exhaust valves replaced as they were worn. I am aware this is a common problem. However, since I have had this work done, my car has been burning oil quite rapidly (1 litre per 250 miles). The garage told me that it could be the piston rings that are worn because having restored compression the piston rings have come under stress etc. However, they also said that it could be the valve stems which they had not put in 100% correctly that could be causing the car to be burning oil this rapidly. Can anyone advise on whats a good move from here, having spent £600 to fix the valves I'm not partial to spending another £600 on the piston rings. Would it be useful to get a compression test done to see if its the piston rings? Has anyone else had this problem with their car? Any help would be appreciated, thanks. :)
  17. Hi all. So I recently purchased a 2002 1.2 Polo, with only 60k mileage. After less than a day driving, the check engine light came on! The garage checked it with their computer, said it was a faulty Lambda sensor. Re-set the computer, and the light was off. Sad thing is it came back on again after about 30 miles. I want them to replace this sensor, and get that light off my dash! However, yesderday the check oil light came on whilst I was driving on the motorway - with beep (but only orange light). When I bought the car I noticed the oil was low, so I filled it up to just under the full marker (1L). When I managed to get off the motorway and check the oil, it was empty. I waited a good 45 mins, then checked again, and still empty. So I filled a little more oil in (I did not want to overfill) and drove home with no warning ligts. This weekend I did drive about 450 miles in the car... So my question is - can to two warning lights be connected? Could the car really use that much oil after driving +550 miles since I bought it? Should I use another oil (I used a Castrol they recomended in Halfords) perhaps? I am going to take it back to the garage where I got it to have them look at it, but wanted to ask for advice before they start telling me whats "wrong" with it. I am by no means an expert in cars, so any advice would be greatly appreciated. I am by no means an expert, and this is the first car I bought... cheers
  18. Wondering if any one could help me I've looked in the manual over and over and can't find how much oil my car takes because it needs a oil change can any one help me out please
  19. i have a 2001 polo 6n2 and got coilovers fitted to it about a month ago now and lowered it as much as i could (but still enough so i could turn full lock without hitting the arches) last week i was driving back to work and the inner driveshaft came out. so i got it taken to the garage and got it all bolted back up but then i noticed i had a gearbox oil leak. i then got it back up on the ramp and changed the oil seal where the flange sits in the gearbox, put it all back together and it was still leaking. i asked a mechanic and he says it will probs need a new gearbox.so thats what I'm going to do (get a new gearbox) was just wondering if this had happened to anyone else and if so is there a way i can prevent it from happening again cheers in advance darren
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