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Found 69 results

  1. damunk

    car stand for polo 6n

    the lifting points on the 6n have a small lip where the jack fits into. 4 points on the car assume these are the best points to place the car on stands. anyone recommend some car stands that would fit snug around this lip cant seem to find any
  2. 6N0825235H i was given this part number by vw for the undertray of a polo 16v AFH 1998 I have seen a 6N2 undertray for sale and the part number is same 6N0825235H is the 6N1 and 6N2 chasis the same? Also i have seen some from germany, i assume they wont work because of gear box etc on other side. think the undertray are designed with ventilation route in mind.
  3. Time Left: 29 days and 20 hours

    • WANTED
    • USED

    polo 6n 2/3 door window MANUAL mechanism both sides required £10.00

    £10.00

  4. i replaced bonnet lock mechanism now don't know how to install it back properly theres a sqaure rubber grommet that fits in the mechanism to hold the cable but i don't know how to connect the zig zag shaped pin to the mechanism. It's as if there is too much cable and it springs back out when trying to bolt down the mechanism to the front body panel.
  5. do the 4 door and 2 door 6n manual window regulator mechanism all the same at the front end of the car? also would it matter if it was bought from germany?
  6. cbr600 carbs were set up by bogg brothers on my 1.4 afh setup. they ran rich because was using 150 jets. so at idle there ran 13 and at 2000rpm in stationory position AFR was around 13.0- to 14.0 but using the same carbs on my 1.6 afh conversion setup they run lean on idle idle was over 17 when engine cold causing exhaust to sometimes make like a spitting noise. when warm , gets around 15.9 -16.0 ish in stationary position revving it up to 2000rpm gets it where it should be 14.7, (when engine is warm) i've done some research and timing shouldn't affect AFR significantly to get dodgy AFR readings. theres a idle screw that controls where idle position is.. i increased that to around 1500 rpm to get a decent enough AFR to avoid damage. i took off the brake vacumm hose and re-installed it to make sure it's dead tight. where else can there be air leak. the jubilee clips around the intake manifold for holding the carbs are pretty crap. they are tight but if you overtighten these jubille clips the nut jumps , making you tighten it to a certain limit. but noticed tihs issue with old set up. the only thing that is different apart from the engine lol, is that im doing the testing with no bonnet and no induction pipe and ram air filter
  7. Engine struggled to start third time round. After rebuild, with news cams, pistons, rings etc engine ran for ten minutes then there was a oil leak. two weeks later oil leak sorted, started engine and ran at 2000rpm for another ten minutes stopped engine but this time around tried to turn it over straight away and the battery could not turn the engine over. felt like a dead battery. the mechanic said because the engine is now hot the compression will be higher and the battery is struggling. stopped the engine as while the radiator fan kicked in. i have converted the engine from 1.4 to a 1.6 afh conversion. Does this mean I now need a stronger battery? The battery for the 1.4 should be 440ca, 50ah. The battery for the 1.6 should be 550ca, 60ah. but ive seen people using a 45ah in thier 1.6's infact some websites sell 40ah for the 1.6. i measured the battery with a multimeter and it read 12.2V when engine switched off. p.s new battery & new alternator
  8. Is it okay to run without the ignition fuse? I'm running bike carbs, and stand alone ECU. have probs with ignition fuse blowing on "on " position. link below - had a word with mechanic, he says i've damaged a wire when putting engine back. can a wrong connection to starter motor cause fuse to blow even if not"cranking"
  9. was all fine. put engine back in and now when turning key (not cranking) ignition fuse keeps popping. i know it's rated on 15 amps but i had 3 amp on it, running gauges, aem fuel gauge and fuel pump and was fine. now its popping 3 amp fused, put a ten amp in and popped that, should i put 15amp in and try it?
  10. bought a genuine radiator thermal switch for polo 6n1 radiator, part number 867 959 481 i noticed it only had two pins as opposed to the three pin that was originally in. saw a few more on ebay registered for the polo 6n and again noticed two pints on them. is this right?
  11. purchased some new hoses from PSS for the polo 6n the power steering hose end that goes into the power steering pump has an o-ring on it. i installed this end and it screws down half way then get's tight. the o-ring doesn't touch the base therefore there is no seal. the threads are fine and the power steering pump is brand new. any suggestions? seen on some forums people say don't use teflon tape on hydraulic systems
  12. POLO 6N AFH 1997 I purchased a genuine elring seal: 028103171B I purchased also a gasket: 026103181B I did not use the gasket because it did not fit so i thought because the crank seal had a rubber lip on the inside housing, that they might have updated the design therefore not needing the gasket. I got the part numbers from: https://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/rdw/polo+derby+vento-ind/po/1998-158/1/103-103005/#15 I also noticed that the actual seal that goes around the crankshaft was in two parts. a thin back seal and a front thin seal. Not quite sure how you install that. Anyway got a pretty big oil leak. Pictures below to show what i mean about the inner rubber lip on the housing.
  13. new schrick camshafts making ticking noise? having to contend with all the smoke coming out of the back, fuel ratio not to bad for a first start got it up to 2000 rpm and kept it there 2 minutes then switched it off as the ticking noise from the cams increases with rpm and somethings not right. are new cams supposed to make a noise until they have been run in? im in the garage to there is echo but still i wanted a super quite drive train. new valves, guides, cotters, hyrdaulic lifter rockets and cams. p.s ticking noise is tapping noise.
  14. I replaced the cabin filter earlier this week and noticed a lot of gunk in the scuttle panel area. I therefore want to remove the plastic housing the filter sits in and clean it thoroughly. There are two plastic nuts I have removed but the box will simply not budge. What am I missing? On a '97 Polo 6N 2-door.
  15. How do you open the pas fluid reseivour? polo 6n afh theres a green rubber top with a 8mm groove in. do you require a special tool? I stuck an allen key into and tried to turn it anti clock wise but feel like i'm going to rip the groove won't budge. is it anti clock wise or do you pull it off? https://www.autoparts24.co.uk/item/G_0001_0037281PI0100/
  16. cars been sat in garage for two years: have a new battery - checked voltage across battery all okay. checked voltage on the leads them selves that connect to battery to make sure they were connected tight. but the car is dead, no electric at all. the lead from negative terminal from battery connects to a bolt that secures the gearbox to engine block. the gearbox has been spray painted but the bolt was not. I believe the dash electrics get thier power from the small 6mm red lead that connects to positive terminal of battery. not sure what's gone wrong as I connected it all back up as it what and took lot's of pics. the only thing that is different is I have not connected any head lights and the horn.
  17. i must be cursed. fuel tank leaking after allowing fuel to go to carbs and go through return pipe into tank, the leak is central and right onto the main anti roll bar on back. is this bar directly under the fuel filter? it only leaks when pump is running. tank is 3/4 full. soon as it stops priming , leak stops. must be fuel filter? rubber seals corroded after been sat in winters? car can't move as its a new build, , cams, rings need to be run in.
  18. can ihave the part number for polo 6n radiator temp sensor which sits in between the two pipes on the radiator. i cant get the old one off because its a 23mm extended socket required to get it off so id buy a new one instead. thsnks
  19. when you grease the cv joint on the driveshaft end that connects to the gearbox flange, do you also have to put some grease on the gearbox flange side?
  20. gearbox is in and connected the selector to the gearbox. first of all bolt keeps turning , not sure how tight it is supposed to be. secondly after tightning it, pressed clutch pedal to test out the gears and every gear is going in very sluggish and very difficult. it feels very ugly like if it is being forced. not how it used to be. they would go in like a normal car should lol. the oil level is very low but as im not driving the car yet should that have any effect on the gear selection smoothness or have i cocked up the selector to gearbox.
  21. Hello, I am having yet another issue with my 98' Polo Classic (6kv2). A couple of days ago I drove it through town for about an hour (heavy traffic), and stopped in the parking lot. As soon as I go out of the car I see a puddle building under the car. The hose connecting the thermostat housing to the heater core inlet was blown off the heater. (I suspect it happend just as I was parking) Clamp was there, hose did not seem to have any damage. Placed it back on, refilled engine with coolant/water - seems ok now. The question is what caused this in the first place? I've checked the thermostat - seems OK (does not overheat, return radiator hose is hot). In fact both thermostat, housing and temp sensor are brand new (2 weeks old). There does not seem to be milky residue on the engine cap (water in oil). No oil in the expansion tank. No white smoke coming out of the tailpipe. If seems to build a bit of white foam in the expansion tank when I am accelerating and water is pouring on it. Could it be a head-gasket issue? Does this polo series have any pressure release valve in the cooling system? Thank you
  22. can someone please give me the torque setting to the water pump and the cam belt idle roller if they have. thank you.
  23. Hello, I'm own a 1998 WV Polo Classic (6KV2) with an 1.6L 8-valve 75HP gasoline engine (AEE). Whenever I try to start the car in the morning, I get the following situation: Engine starts, idles correctly, but if I touch the gas pedal (even in neutral) it will choke and nearly stall. Afterwards it works just fine (even if I stop the engine and start again it's ok). The problem only seems to come back if I leave the car turned of for at least half a day (or overnight). It also seems to be a bit more pronounced in cold weather. Any idea what could be the cause of this? Thanks!
  24. timing belt change on the afh it seems the drive pulley which sits on the crank pulley covers a little of the timing belt tensionor bolt which doesn't allow a torque wrench to go over the bolt. it's a daft design if im right, it means you have to take off the drive pulley , undo the alternator tensioner, take off drive belt. anyone here done a belt change on afh?
  25. Hi guys, ive just fitted my new set of coilovers! I replaced my old ones are they was completely siezed. so I’ve got them all fitted and ready to go! I’ve come to adjust the coilovers now to lower the car back to how it was! I’ve dropped it down and the spring has stayed slack As if the shock isn’t allowing the spring to go any lower! What am I missing here! Cheers guys Ryan
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