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I've recently bought a 1982 polo breadvan with 1043cc engine and manual choke carb and it idles fine, starts fine and runs okay apart from sputtering every now and then. It appears that it's fine when throttle is wide open but when pulling away or changing down gears and pulling away it struggles causing the car to kangaroo before picking up again. I'm having to compensate with high revs when pulling away to avoid it stalling and those skinny little tyres struggle enough for traction and wheelspinning away from every junction isn't as fun as it sounds. Just wondering if anyone has had similar issues or any idea what to look for? I'm assuming its carb related so I'm assuming that will need to come off and have a good clean. Any help or advice will be much appreciated Thanks Dan.

Hi again. So after chatting on here and trying to solve the problems on starting after refuelling. I’ve got some questions and hope someone can help out!?!! 🙂 So each time I refuel I have problems starting. Sometimes it happens when it’s warm and I’ve turned it off and tried to start again a short time after. Once it does fire up I get a really rich smell with a cloud of light smoke out the back. Someone said it sounds like the pressure regulator. Because I’ve established that the fuel pump is working properly. Any one else had issues like this? Please help. G

Hi all, I sold my breadvan a few years back and bought it back recently, it had been in storage for 3 years and was absolutely sodden when I got it back. It started up first time and then didn’t for a very long time until changing the; HT leads, battery, dizzy cap, plugs and clearing the fuel line and fresh fuel. However, it was always flooding itself so I needed to rectify this issue - I changed the SPI unit / throttle body (at this time I didn’t realise there was no gasket). At the time of bad flooding you could hear the fuel pump priming strongly. Since then I have changed the ECU (noticed a change in fuel pump priming), oil pressure switch, both temp sensors and added a gasket to the carb flange. I managed to get the car running and ticking over today (sweeter then ever before) however it’s only willing to run on ether, and there appears to be no fuel getting to the carb. The fuel prime sounds weak now in comparison to the previous ECU. Any ideas? Should I revert to my old ECU? Fuel pump or relays? Many thanks!

Hi I recently brought a 6n2 1.4 tdi polo, had massive problems with starting the car, turns out it was the battery as it was only 40ah battery! So I got that replaced and everything was fine, but recently it's doing the same, it just cranks over fast but doesn't fire, sometimes it does it, sometimes it doesn't or it starts then dies about 2 seconds later and flashes up a battery light icon, I changed the fuel filter when I done the battery, any ideas what could be causing this? Thank you

Hi guys; I'm new here so I figured I'd make an introduction. I'm Tim, currently living in right over the water here in the Netherlands! Dutch isn't my native language so I figured this would be a better bet for me. I've found a near mint silver VW Polo 6N2, grannys car, mechanically sound, well kept everything at honestly a steal too. I'll be getting it washed and maybe detailed before getting some pictures up. Sadly its an automatic, but the saving grace is for the price, most of the other 6Ns and 6N2s are preeetty ratty and not worth half the salt they're asking for them. As for the problem at hand - Only tiny issue is the automatic shifter knob - the transmission upshifts and downshifts/kicks down absolutely no problem, smooth and all, and the shifter moves as it should. Only thing is the small button that you depress when you change gears - it can be depressed and change gears no problem, but sometimes it doesn't come all the way out and it feels like it may be an issue with the spring inside. Unfortunately I haven't managed to find anything in my trawling, so I was wondering if anyone here has had any experience with something like this before, and whether its an easy self fix/how long something like that would take in terms of labour? Cheers!

Hey everyone, Another issue with my 96 6n. Now the throttle plate doesn't seem to open when i start the engine. At first i noticed the plate would open just enough to allow the engine to start/idle and there was a loud buzzing noise coming from the throttle body (disappeared when i unplugged it). Then the plate started rapidly flicking between the closed and slightly open position. And now the plate doesn't open at all while the engine is cranking, making it impossible to start the engine and leave it to idle. I can start the engine by putting the accelerator pedal down so i know it's an issue with the throttle body itself. I Have already replaced it for a new throttle body and have the same issue. Am i right in assuming it's a wiring fault of some kind, Bad ground, open circuit? Thanks in advance,