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  1. Okay, so I own a 16-valver for about a year now. When I got the car it was idling fine, but after a few days after releasing the throttle it would do the common problem of idling hunting from 1300-2000 rpm. Disconected the battery terminals several times, until one time It started normally and was hunting from 1000-1100rpm. After a few miles I noticed that when I stopped completely it would idle at 900rpm. And that was it, within a matter of days the hunting was completely gone and the car would always idle perfectly. Fast forward a few months and the problem started again, but much much worse. It would do the usual of not idling correctly but would not fix itshelf by just disconecting the battery. I started digging and to date I have done the following. Changed the distributor, changed the temp sender, cleaned throttle body, blanked off the egr, replaced all the vacuum hoses, changed spark plugs, tried a different throttle body, (Mine is 036133064E and the replacement was 036133064J) changed the MAP sensor, (although I am not sure if i got the correct one), Checked for continuity between different sensors and the ecu plug. Results are: Temp sender: Three out of four wires have continuity to the ecu pins The fourth one i pressume goes to the dash(?). MAP sensor: All of the wires have continuity to the ECU, however one wire has continuity to 2 different pins of the ecu, could not find continuity beetween the sensor's pins and ground. Also when the ignition is on the 2 middle wires have +5v After all this, the car is still hunting, but less, (1300-1400rpm) and when I stop completely it idles at 1100rpm and not hunting. BUT after all this the car is no longer running as it was. It has doubled in fuel consumption and the plugs come out dark indicating it is running rich. Also there a noticable power loss overal, but the most frustrating thing is that off the line the car is chocking even at full throttle until i pass the 2000rpm mark. Vag com ruturns ABS faults (Bad ABS module) and throttle position sensor error but this can be attributed to running the car without the TPS plug for testing. I tried running the car without the o2 sensor, nothing changes. Today as i was messing arround i unpluged the TPS plug and the MAP plug. The car was idling perfectly, but as soon as i opened the throttle it would choke and die since it has no idea how much air is going in. I believe the problem can be traced to bad wiring or bad TPS sensor in the throttle body. What should I try next? Does the wiring sound right to you? Any ideas are more than welcome.
  2. Hi guys, I own a 6n2 1.0 Polo and I think I have a potentially expensive problem. Since the last few weeks, Ive noticed everytime I press the clutch in and out, I hear a faint *clunk* (always happen when releasing the pedal), regardless of where the gear stick is. Now its stopped with another problem. Everytime I drive, my car always jerks regardless of whether I have my foot in the gas. It turns out, my car always jerks at low rpm and stops jerking when I drive with the revs over 2000 rpm. When Im stationary, it doesnt jerk and the engine idles fine. When I recorded my engine revving upto redline, the engine remained tamed in its engine mounts (didnt move lol). When I drive inbetween the jerking range, and I press the clutch and coast. The jerking stops. I was also told that my cv boot or joint or gaitor or whatever the black rubber thing that my axles are connected to is called, its ripped on both sides with small leaks. So whats the potential cause of this? Please dont say its the clutch. Please say its just low transmission fluid.
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