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Found 6 results

  1. Hello everyone! I've had quite the adventure in the past two years driving this car. It's quite the old car, but I kind of like the character these have. Problems pop up, and go away over time, most of them ignorable, but this one was a nasty surprise. I drive 1995 Ibiza 6K with a 1.4 8v ABD. I know, I know, it's not a Polo 6N but they're very similar so I was hoping if someone would help me here. All of the other SEAT-related forums seem to be just related to the newest cars or just downright dead. No help whatsoever. :/ I once again apologize for it not being a Polo, I just can't find anyone with this specific problem. What happened prior to the problem: The other day, the weather is damp, and the car started oscillating it's revs in a rhythmic way between 750 and 1200 rpm (idle and warm up revs), it is about to stall, but then it gives itself some throttle and goes to 1200 but then stalls to about 750 and throttles itself again until I intervene with a quick blip of the throttle and it goes away. It was odd, and enough to get my attention. After about a month, I decided to reset my ECU, so I disconnect the battery overnight and after 24 hrs I reconnect it and start the car. I let it run and it got down to 750. 10 minutes later, down the road, I stop my car at a stoplight, and it starts oscillating again, I blip the throttle, and it just revs itself to redline! It does not take any throttle input anymore, and I just cut the ignition. I start it up again, and it revs itself again to redline. I was afraid to dump the clutch to see if it would keep going, but I pushed the car to the side of the road and tried to see what was going on. The mechanic replaces the throttle actuator, and it went away for 15 minutes. Second replacement, 600RPM and it was away for 10 minutes, then the 3rd one was okay for 3 weeks. Now, I was having some short-lived fun, where I used full throttle, the car pulled no problem from 2000rpm to 5000rpm. And 2 minutes after that, at a carpark it's idle went from 750 to 1000, and when I tried parking, it again went to redline, same problem, whatever I try (it was wet outside again). When I turn the ignition on, the butterfly valve is wide open, is it supposed to be like that? I've searched high and low for answers, from one forum to the next, 2003 to 2015, I've learned how Monomotronic/Jetronic is supposed to work, what inputs it takes in, how it operates and whatnot. My mechanic has a parts car, so I can get replacements right away, I just don't want to burn a hole in my pocket (it's charred as it is :/) The car sits for 3-5 hrs and the problem goes away, but I'm afraid to make any longer journey in it. Can the actuator even push the throttle body all the way to wide-open? Could the ECU be knackered? I understand that all it takes is a small short circuit between the contacts on the ECU and the actuator goes out all the way, but W.O.T.? No way. I'm lucky it's not an automatic. If anyone can help me narrow down the possible problems, I would be very grateful! I have heaps more info I got from observation research of the car, but no-one had a W.O.T. problem like I do. P.S. The MPG was usually 26, but during winter it drops to 14. Any help with that would be good as well!
  2. Been puzzling over my rolling road graph and why the engine did not rev nearly as high as I expected and horsepower and torque were nearly standard (I got 55.8kW/74.8bhp @ 5655rpm , 76.4lbft @ 4755rpm) for the GK http://www.carfolio.com/specifications/models/car/?car=39336. (75bhp @ 5800rpm, 77lbft @ 3600rpm). But the good news is I re-found the daiPipes engine calculator... it's archived here https://web.archive.org/web/20120626081319/http://dairally.net/daihard/chas/MiscCalculators/DaiPipes.htm Plugging my numbers in (though valve lift is a guess and I added a 2% power multiplier for 56kW) gives a calculated max torque of 101Nm =74.5lbft within 1 rpm of what the dyno measured. Don't think the air correctors are too big. At least I've now got a lambda bung near the exhaust manifold... so I can play with the jets (based on 87bhp Nova Sport, but using Dellorto). Time to move from the 052109101H 229deg duration at 1mm lift camshaft? I've mistakenly called it a 292 before, but I think its more like 255 deg at 0.05" / 1.27mm. Anyone know its actual inlet and exhaust opening timings? PS polo cup had a 298deg camshaft with 12mm lift and 108 centreline http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4966762-TECH-Camshaft-and-Valvespring-info 298* camshaft measured @ .050" Polo Cup Series profile Techtonics copied and changed to 110*LSA Advertised Duration: 298* Duration @ .050": 254.99* (IN) / 255.15* (EX) Valve Lift: .472" (12.0050mm (IN) / 11.9959 (EX) Lift @ TDC: 3.942" (IN) 3.873" (EX) Centerlines: 107.5* / 108.3* Lobe Center: 107.9* Valve Timing: 19.97/55.02 - 55.92/19.23 Valve Overlap: 39.2*
  3. Polo 6N -98 1,6 AEE Hello! I'm having a problem where I have no Idle until my car is on normal temp but it only works for about 15 seconds from time to time then the engine stalls, and also my car wont start if i'm not pushing down the throttle pedal. This all happened after an electrical failure in my left hand side aftermarket headlight with crappy connectors. When i turned on the ignition all the lightning in my left hand side headlight was emitting light but very dim or low (low beam, high beam, parking light & angeleyes) so instead of turning it of i started to switch between different lighting setups (like low beam, parking lights only etc.) and on parking lights only it worked perfectly but as i switched to fullbeam my auxillary lamps wouldn't turn off, so i guess there was a short curcuit somewhere... however, as I tried to turn the engine on it just wouldn't start. The starter motor rotates, the engine rotates but it does sound like it's fairl easy to pull around and sometimes it sounds like it wants to starts so badly, like one or two cylinder/s actually ignites. VagCom returns me an error code for Idle motor/regulator so i replaced the throttlebody to a used one just now and I still have the same problem. I did however loosen the hose for the canister purge solenoid valve and then it started and idled normally but I don't think that's the problem. When you start it with the throttle pedal down and keep it at about 1000 rpm you can actually feel a vibration coming from the throttle body itself. Could actually feel it when i reved it by hand from the engine bay too. It comes from the butterfly/throttle When you turn the key to "ON" the throttlebody emitts a dim beeping noise for about 4 seconds and the butterfly makes a clicking noise both at the start and the end of the beeping sequence. The question is... Is there something else than the throttle body that controlls the engine idle? Have I completely toasted the ECU? PS. I did also have an error code on the Oxygen sensor and MAP-Sensor saying singal Intermittent but they did not return as the Idle one did after deletion.
  4. Hey, Posts have already been made about this problem but I'm really desperate. My Polo (53 plate) keeps stalling and cutting out when the clutch is pushed down (released). It struggles to start in the morning too. The idle RpM seems to be really low around 700. I have replaced the throttle body, cleaned it and the intake below the TB. I have replaced the coolant temperature sensor, and disconnected the battery for 16hours to try and reset the ECU. NON OF THIS HAS WORKED (not even helped!) Can anyone please help?? I've got no ideas left :( I've uploaded a video to of it cutting out:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iyhd9LBAPgU Idel photo: http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g393/LukeTabasco/20150130_185429.jpg P.s its going to the VW dealership next week to have a diagnostic test and have the ECU reset properly. Thanks Luke
  5. I have a polo 6n2 1.0l and the past few times after driving it at high rmp it struggles to start once turned off and sometimes the revs will dip and it willl cut out, but once it is running it runs fine, does anyone know what the cause of this problem may be and also how to fix it, Thanks
  6. Hello I just bought my first car with manual transmission. VW Polo 1.2 petrol 2006 (6n3) I have a lot of driving experience but not much with a manual. The transmission itself is not a problem but I'm concerned with fuel economy. Right now I'm getting about 8.5-9L/100km in the city, so it could definitely be better. So my question is, At what RPM should I switch gears? I try to keep the rpm a little above 2000 while driving at a steady speed. Is this right, or could I go below 2000? Normally at city speeds (50km/h or 30mph) my rpm is at 2100-2400 with 3rd gear. I've noticed that I switch to 4th when the speed is at about 58km/h (36mph) and the rpm is at about 2700. Thanks in advance if someone is willing to answer. Might be a stupid question but answers would help alot...
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