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Found 15 results

  1. Hi all, I recently bought the chrome dial set from the GTI variant for my 1.4 (6N2 model). And this has got me wanting to try fit a ambient temperature sensor (which as they’re the same platform I imagine is possible), however never having looked over a gti to see where it would mount and the cabling goes I’ve hit a bit of a brick wall! Is anyone able to shed some light on where the sensor sits and cables run?
  2. hi , ive been told its at the back of the engine , starter motor needs to come off , but ive had her on ramps and still cant locate the sensor or the starter motor, any help??
  3. Hi, I'm looking to replace the coolant sensor but there seem to be two - a blue one and a black one. Picture Anyone know what each one is for? Thanks
  4. Hi all, I was hoping my first thread to be me starting with my Polo project, but that needs to wait until I fix my other Polo, for which I need a bit of help as a quick search didn't pan out :( Basically the troublesome Polo has issues with cold start. It starts and cuts off almost immediately. After 5 minutes of struggle to rev it, it manages to stay on, and after a while (as it warms up), there is no problem with starting it again... Starting it directly on LPG also has no issues. So generally I though the petrol pump was bust, but I checked with another one, and there is no difference. The only error it has is about the lambda sensor. It had it way before any issues where presented. At some point the catalytic converter was also removed. The throttle body is also clean and working properly. So as I have another 6n2 Polo with the same engine, I wanted to swap the lambda sensors and check if it would change anything. We only managed to swap the MAP sensors and make sure it is not from them, as the lambda sensors apparently are different. So the question at the moment is why are they different? The troublesome Polo is using a square plug sensor, where the other one is using the way cheaper flat plug sensor :) If I get a flat one for the troublesome Polo and just rewire the plug will it work, as this is normally done with other vehicles, using universal lambda sensors with the existing original wiring?
  5. Just had this come on for the first time ever but haven't had time to check the level yet (arrived home late and it was too dark), I'm assuming that since the coolant hasn't been changed in a long time it's just running a bit low and if that's the case does anyone know if there's any specific coolant I should use to top it up with? Am I right in thinking it should be just over the minimum level when cold as it will expand when heated? It's of course possible there's a sensor problem but I'm hoping I don't need to get the coolant tank replaced (fingers crossed). I don't think there's a bigger problem as the needle goes into the middle after a while like normal and doesn't overheat or anything.
  6. I've just put a replacement pierburg 1b carburettor in my polo MK2. Now she runs I've realised the rad fan isn't working and nor is the temperature gauge on the dash. The old pierburg had a line from the air filter sensor to the base of the back and the auto choke had some electrics. The new one is a manual choke and hasn't got the pipe for the sensor or any electrics. Could this be causing the fan not to run and the dodgy gauge?
  7. Hi everyone, Recently had a new crankshaft position sensor fitted on my 9N and thought I'd go ahead and replace the camshaft one as well. However, not being the most mechanical person in the world I can't find the thing at all! If anyone knows its exact whereabouts and could let me know (any pictures would be really appreciated) I would be very grateful! Cheers for reading and have a good day.
  8. Hello, I've recently got an ABD up and running in the mk3 (2f) polo. The block is an ABD, rehoned, washed out, new rings and bearings. The head is the ABD one, casting marks and sharp inner radius to valves smoothed out. GT cam, new valve oil seals and various other seals. Gt injection set up. It seems to run well but once up to temperature, when accelerating in the medium to high revs, the oil light starts to flash. If I lower the revs it might go off but it will come back on in medium revs, after a while it will just stay on and only go off if I turn the ignition off and start it back up again. None of it appears to affect the performance, just the oil light comes on and I can't figure out why So far I've: Tested the oil pressure - around 0.25 bar at idle, around 1.8 bar at 2000rpm and doesn't rise above that with higher revs. Replaced both oil pressure sensors, seperately, neither made a difference. Chopped off old pressure sensor wiring connectors, stripped wire back and fitted new ones. Checked the oil breather pipes for kinks and blockages - cleaned the seperator on the block during rebuild. None of this has solved the issue. If I ground the yellow wire (high oil pressure I believe) then the light wont come on at all. Only issue is I've tried both old and new sensors and the problem comes back. The old sensor is off my AAV engine and is 1.4 +/- 0.2 bar, the new one is 1.8 +/- 0.2 bar from ECP. It may be related or it may not but I cant get it to idle perfectly either, sometimes it will idle around the 920 area but other times more like 1000 - 1100. I've done ignition and idle to the GT timing guide on here but had to wind the idle screw down as far as it would go. Ignition timing is spot on. Another thing is the two white wires for the lambda probe pulled out their socket and both being white I'm not sure which way round they're meant to be so I've had to put them back without knowing if they're the right way round, is there a multimeter test I can do to figure that out? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you. Joe.
  9. Hello, I have a little problem with my polo 9n coupe. One year ago i bought a new steering box cause mine crushed. I got a new one from a vw polo 2007 (mine is 2003) the steering box fitted perfectly but i saw that the stering sensor on the box it s not exactly the same but the connector plug it s the same. The first one on the original box was like this: And the new stering box has this one: The steering sign steels appears me on board, i try to connect with VCDS but say s me that the sensor it s faulty so i got another one and tried again and got the same error. When i plug the old sensor the steering sign disappear from board, but this one dosen t fit on steering box. On VCDS i got this" 00816 - Steering sensor - G250- 37-00 - faulty WHat to do? WHat do you thnik it s the problem? Thank you guys!
  10. Hi, I own a 1.2 9n3 Polo (55 plate) I bought it in July 2015 and in October 2015, the check engine light came on. After taking it into a local garage and having it looked at by the mechanic, I was told I would need a new Catalytic Converter. I was also told that for the warranty, I would need both sensors replaced as well. So after nearly £400, it should now all be fixed. The invoice read that a new cat was supplied and an fitted as well as two o2 sensors and the p0420 code was read and cleared. Two days ago the check engine light has came on again. This time, I have an OBD-II reader and plugged that in. The reader showed one error code, p0420, the same as last time. So as it stands I am potentially looking at the replacement cat having failed only 13 months on from being fitted. I'm hoping that someone can help shed some more light on this situation for me so that I am not spending over the odds on repairs that are not needed. As far as I am aware, the cat is aftermarket. I was wondering if these come with a specific kind of warranty with them? (I asked a different local garage yesterday and was told that most exhaust parts should come with a two year warranty - is this true?). If it is covered under warranty, is it for the garage who carried out the repair to replace at no extra cost or would I have to pay the labour? Is there anything I can try out first before paying for another repair? Is it okay to drive still and is it worth taking it out on a drive to try and clear it if anything has built up? Are there any checks I can carry out to try and single out the problem? Thanks!
  11. Hi guys I've owned my 6N2 for two years now and he's a fantastic car. We've done 10k+ miles and he's never missed a beat .. until now. In March he failed the MOT on emissions (running rich) but the garage mechanics couldn't say why - it looks like it may be a lambda sensor. The only code we've had off him since then (which comes up intermittently) is 17574 - 'Long Term Fuel Trim: Additional Air Bank 1: Range 2 System Too Rich' - P1166. Anyway, I've got a couple of jobs on him that need doing but haven't got any mechanically-minded friends. I'm in Bristol but obviously can't drive him far as he's not got an MOT (and therefore tax/insurance are invalid). I need someone (local, unless you are happy to travel!) with free time to come and work on him. I'm happy to pay for parts and time, obviously . Briefly, I think what's needed is a new clutch and lambda sensor (to get him MOT-ready) and then in addition I've got some service parts that need installing (spark plugs, fuel and oil filters, air filter). Any help ASAP would be amazing - please get in touch if you fancy saving a really good car. :'(
  12. Guys I need some help; I have found that I require a new crank shaft position sensor on my 6n2's AUD engine.Does anyone know where it is located, how to get to it and how to remove it? Any Advice on where I could get one that is of good quality would also be appreciated along with any pictures that could help describe its location Cheers, Luke
  13. Various 6N parts for sale NEED EVERYTHING GONE SO OPEN TO OFFERS Collection from NN3 Area. May post small items. 1 x Drivers wing £5 1 x Passenger wing £5 2 x Front Passenger window (2 Door) £5 each 1 x Front Drivers window (2 Door) £5 1 x Replacement rear drivers side arch section £10 3 x Left Headlight £5 each 3 x Right Headlight £5 each 1 x 8v Throttle body £10 1 x Alternator £10 2 x Starter motor £10 1 x 16v Grill set (Small Split on Lower grill) £25 1 x 16v Rear bumper £25 1 x 8v Clocks (Roughly 62k on) £20 1 x 16v Air intake £5 1 x 16v head (bent valves) £20 1 x 16v Bottom end £20 1 x Hall sensor £8 1 x Fuel rail / Injectors £10 1 x Bumper Bar £8 2 x 16v Engine Plastic covers/vacuum pipes? £5 PM me.
  14. Hi All, I think I need to replace the engine coolant temp sensor on my AEX engine 6n. Symptom are a difficultly to start from cold, lumpy running at idle when it does start and the temp gauge doesn't work. I've had a price from my local TPS of nearly £40, and a price from Euro Car Part for just under £20 for an OE quality item. Has any one got experience of using non-genuine sensors like this? Are they generally ok? And are there any brands I should look for or avoid? Thanks.
  15. I posted a topic a while ago about my car not starting. It's a temperamental little thing and I've still not figured out what the issue is. For ages I thought it was a sensor issue (it still could be) because it won't start when the engine is cold, that is once it has been left off for 12 hours+. However this could always be down to the fuel having evaporated, thus being a fuel issue. I have however made progress towards a workaround. For a while, if it wouldn't start, I'd lift the bonnet and remove then reattach and the distributor leads, and make sure the lead from the amplifier wasn't touching any other leads. I was told sometimes the spark is lost when leads are touching due to dampness. This would 90% of the time start the car, but on the times it wouldn't it led me to believe that this wasn't actually the issue. So here I am now, with my car sometimes starting right away like a trouper. Other days though I will have to repeatedly turn it over, each time I do it sounds more and more like starting, till boom, it fires. Sometimes it fires after a few, sometimes after a dozen. But one thing is for sure, turning it over for a long period of time doesn't work, it has to be repeatedly turned over. What on Earth could be causing this? I can only forsee this getting worse throughout winter, so I'd love to diagnose it soon myself and then get it fixed. I'm relatively handy with cars so I may be able to fix it, but I can't diagnose, and I rue taking it into a garage for them to just tell me the lambda needs changing or something... Thanks in advance!
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