Search the Community

Looking at H&R Cup Kit (35mm all round) Anyone got pics of them on a Mk2?

Hello! I have an 83 Breadvan and looking for the best solution to subtly lowering it. It has 14" immitation g60 wheels and I am pretty sure that any lowing on the rear is going to scrape the arch - centre of tyre sticks slightly further out than the arch. If the front it just lowered (by around 40mm on springs) will it look too top heavy? Does anyone have any other solution or experienced this? Any help welcome and appreciated! Thanks!

So I recently bought this 1.2 3 cylinder on 85k miles about 4 weeks ago. Found out yesterday that the front coilovers are shot. Looks like they've been shot long before I got the car. But still passed it's m.o.t. anyone k ow where I can get an ok set for under £200? I think it has jom coil overs but need replacement ones as the fronts are completely screwed. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated

Hello guys i recently just got some lowering springs and have only just noticed there for a 6n or 6n1, will this fit a 6n2 if so how

Hi, I have a Mk2f polo in need of some lowwwsss because its currently looking like a 4x4. However I'm on a tight budget and am thinking that lowering springs with or without new shocks is the way to go. Any advice on where to find some decently priced springs or shocks would be appreciated. Cheers, Ewan.

Hey Everyone! I have a Polo 9n (2002) 1.2 litre 3 door. I have noticed that when I go over a bump or anything in the road there is a slight knock on the front passenger side wheel assembly. Also when I go on a speed hump, it bounces down too much, to the point im worried the front bumper may scrape the ground as it bounces after the speed hump. When i get out of the car and push it down, it doesn't oscillate that much when I let it go from either front side, but it is easier to push down on the passenger side. I think the noise is from a bushing which needs replacing, however the failing suspension, do I fix that by replacing the gas strut or the spring, or the whole assembly? Do i have to replace the front set or can I just replace the passengers side. Has anyone ever done this before?

Ok so I've got lots of parts that I was hoarding for a project which has now been sold on so now these need to go. 2 x Mk2 wings - good condition bar a slight patch of surface rust at the front of each arch - £20 each Mk2 four lamp front grill with spot lights - excellent condition - £30 Mk2f front grill - excellent condition Not sure if this has ever been fitted. All black - £20 Mk2 Coupe S clock surround - excellent condition - £20 Mk2 standard clock surround - good condition - £10 2 sets of vw2 brake callipers - £50 each Set of new pistons bolts and bleed screws £10 Set of g40 grooved brake discs - £25 Omp 40mm lowering springs - have been used and show signs of wear. - £30 Mk2 glove box - £10 2x Mk2/Mk2f parcel shelf. One blue one black. Excellent condition - £10 each Set of 4 Mk2 window seals - £10 Set of g40 brake pads. Never been fitted - £10 Mk2f passenger side smoked rear light cluster - £10 Mk2 clutch release bearing. Never been fitted - £5 Prices are for part only no postage. Collection is preferred but i am happy to post stuff depending on size and weight. Feel free to PM me for postage costs. I myself am based in Eastbourne. I have pics of everything but I can upload them all on the post so feel free to PM if you would like pics of anything.

Thought I'd put together a quick post with regards to suspension kits/setups. I regularly see the same questions asked, particularly on social media with regards to suspension kits, lowering cars etc; so I thought I would try and generalise some advice. Generally, the majority of people seem to want to lower their car, which can be achieved in several ways. Cheapest option: Lowering springs. These can be bought cheaply, and of different brands and quality. Often designed with a few of the coils designed to go coil-bound under the vehicles weight, this ensures the spring is still properly seated with the suspension in full rebound, but also allows it to sit lower under its weight. Generally, you get what you pay for - the springs will tend to be a different rate to standard, and totally change the character of a car, therefore the standard dampers will no longer be matched to the rest of the vehicle. You may find it doesn't drive too great with just lowering springs, or you suffer premature wear of your dampers. Spring and shock kit: As mentioned above, damping can be an issue with lowering springs - not just the damper settings themselves, but also the range of travel the damper has - generally a lowering spring will be both shorter and stiffer, so to ensure it has the correct amount of pre-load, dampers matched to lowering springs tend to have reduced travel. You can spend between £100 and probably £1500 on a spring and shock kit. Cheaper kits will do the job - but probably won't be as good a quality, or have had any of the R&D which a more expensive kit will have had (Bilstein for example) Dependant on your vehicle platform, ride heights can be adjustable with a spring and shock kit via a circlip on the damper body, however, not as accurately as 'coilovers' Coilovers: People commonly describe a lowering kit with threaded height adjusters as coilovers, when really coilovers just means a coil spring over the damper, so technically every standard polo has coilovers on at least the front, and on the rear on some models too. However, for ease of description, coilovers are a spring and damper kit, which generally has threaded adjusters for adjusting ride heights. This is what people tend to go for to get their cars really low (although a lot of them aren't actually approved to go as low as people run them) These are great for tweaking your ride heights, and particularly if you have a track car, setting up the corner weights accurately. Again, you get what you pay for, cheap coilovers can be had for around £150 and up to and over £2000. Cheaper ones tend to again 'do the job' by lowering the car, however handling and ride quality tend to be somewhat sacrificed. More premium brands such as KW put more development into their kits, therefore you are paying towards that, but essentially end up with a better product. Air Ride I don't really have any experience with after market air suspension, so wouldn't like to comment on what is good and bad. Air will let you drive your car at a sensible height, then release air from the air springs to lower your car to look better. Air springs can be a very tunable component, however I have no idea how much thought is put into this for after market kits. Certainly sleeve bags can be made to have linear and non linear rates so you could essentially make a great kit if the effort was made. From what I have seen a lot of kits use bellow style bags, which I don't really know anything about. Air can be bought cheaply second hand, or you could pay up to £10000 getting a good kit professionally installed. Summary When it comes to suspension, the first thing you should ask yourself is 'What am I trying to achieve?' Generally you are compromising a car from what the manufacturer originally created when you start fitting after market suspension, so you need to decide what you are willing to compromise, whether that be ride quality, handling, durability, practicality and so on. Personally I would save up as much as possible to buy the best quality kit you can, it may even pay to buy a premium Spring and Shock kit, instead of a cheap coilover kit. I have witnessed lots of horrors with after market suspension kits, with regards to how they are fitted, or removing parts to make cars lower etc. Just bare in mind, if things like helper springs and bump stops are supplied with a kit, they are supposed to be fitted - if the manufacturer didn't deem them necessary, they wouldn't put them in! When you are driving along and the vehicle goes into a heave moment, such as a small "jump" in the road the main springs become unloaded, without helper/tender springs, the force of the spring acting on the tyre contact patch is lost, the same thing happens when cornering - as the car rolls and the inside of the car essentially lifts up, the spring becomes unloaded, this results in a huge difference in contact patch loading on the tyre, which could well result in erratic and dangerous handling characteristics. Here is an example with a tender spring correctly fitted. The vehicle has its wheel off the ground, so the damper is at its maximum rebound travel, yet the spring is still preloaded: Here is an example without a tender spring fitted, note the gap at the top of the spring, this means there is a lot less force acting on the tyre (basically just the weight of the unsprung mass hanging down) but also when the suspension is compressed again it will have very little force due to no spring resistance, and then a sudden large build up of force: You will find with more expensive coilover kits, the height adjustment range is a lot less than that of cheaper ones, this is because it has been designed to work around a certain range, and optimised for that. This is a key indicator that cheaper kits which have a huge lowering range aren't perhaps as great as people think. I have tried to explain in simple terms to help people understand, but anyway, I hope this brings some help to someone!

Hello, I've bought a 9n3 2009 1.2 recently its fully stock and i want to get into moding it, to start off i want to lower the car since it looks like a rabbit right now. should i go ahead with lowered springs or buy a set of coilovers. i looked at the JOM's and the eibach springs dont really know what to go for and what would be better. Also if i do get the springs i dont want to go too low to still keep it practical. Any opinions or advice would help since im new to all of this, just passed my driving recently, thanks. cheers.

Hi Guy's I have a set of Eibach springs for the 9n3 Gti, they was on my car for 6 days before my coilovers arrived, how much do you think they are worth? Thanks

Hi guys, This is my first post since joining so please excuse any mistakes I'm looking to fit 16" Montreal II's to my 9N3 once they've had a refurb and was also thinking about lowering to make it sit better. Basically I want to lower it, but not for 'megalows'. The reason I don't want to go really low is that the roads around here are made more of speed humps than anything else! and that I still want it to be practical with passengers etc. I originally thought 35-40mm all round on just lowering springs, but the more and more I read coilovers seems to be everyone's preference? I know the standard shocks will only perform to a certain level with lowering springs, and coilovers makes sense in that regard but are they worth it for only a subtle amount... What's the lowest you can go on standard shocks? Also, if I do go with either route, I would still like it to remain somewhat comfortable, not jarring. Any advice would be appreciated, many thanks!

Hey guys, I got some coilovers from my friend for my 6R polo and I was messing with it today, first problem I come across is the "star" bolt with 18mm nut at the end that holds the front at the place. I'm gonna have to get that screwdriver or torque socket of this size. There's also this clamp thing that hold the brake line in place. so, I just yanked it out, no harm done apparently. That's the furthest i could get at the front, so I'll leave it for next weekend. However, if you have any tips let me know please. The rear: I have this little problem with removing the springs.. there is no alignment at the back so theres is nothing to undo to get the spring to pop out. My only hope is to use a spring compressor to squeeze them and get them out this way. The picture shows the spring completely loose, it won't go any lower but its still pretty solid in place.. rubber hammer maybe? what do you think? I couldn't find anything anywhere .. nobody has done an installation video or forum post regarding.. Thanks for the help in advance.

I'm getting some coilover for my vw polo 6n but I've been looking and I can't find any for a petrol, I can find them for a diesel and I'm just wondering if they would still fit a petrol even though there for a diesel?

Hi guys I'm going to get my car lowered with lowering springs but I haven't got a clue when it comes to lowering. Have a look at my car in my profile pic. I want to know a good mm to drop it by without having any problems underneath like steering etc and still be able to just go over speed bumps. Baring in mind I have 16 inch alloys with 195/45R16 tyres. Get back to me if you can help, thanks James.

So guys I have decided that due to there being absolutely no information on the limits of lowering your car; be it coilovers, springs or bags. I would like you to post a picture of your car along with a tape measure next to it showing how far it is from the ground. Along with a short list of the pro's and con's of the height you have set your car with the set up you are using. Keep it short guys Please note that this will not be a competition, it is going to be the only source for a lowering guide

today i was planning on taking my 6n off coilovers and back to standard for my trip to glastonbury, but when i went to fit the old shocks (not been on for 6 months) the shock was very squishy, didnt stay up on its own and its brother on the passenger side isnt as bad but still does the same, are these fucked? and unsafe to use? if so i will just raise the coileys and brave the rough fields (bare in mind 3 grown men and 3 80kg bags are coming along. Thankyou in advance.

As it currently stands my mk2 breadvan is lowered 60mm front and back. For insurance reasons I need to raise her 20mm. Is it possible to just swap the 60mm springs for 40mm versions or will I have to change the shocks as well? Cheers

Hay so I'm about to buy some 40mm lowered springs and have 3 choices: eibach, apex and some random eBay brand. I'm not really worried about cash and are looking for which ever are gonna be the smoothest for the nicest ride (I understand that shocks are more to do with ride but whatevs).although the eBay ones are halll the price of the others. Just looking for some input before I make my mind up. Thanks in advance.

Apologies for posting this, I cannot seem to get a clear understanding and a final answer out of any of the threads/topics I have read. F.Y.I, I have a 6N2 1.0L. I want to lower the car, nothing ridiculous (not slam) just a nice lower as I play in bands and travel alot and occasionally with passengers front and back. I have not done anything like this before so I needed some decent advice. I also live in the country so I wouldn't be able to have it stupid low. I wanted to drop the front by maybe 50 and the rear by 40, I think it would look like a nice drop where it would be practical too. I have two questions. Could I have some strong reccomendations for lowering springs (with links) (also if I need them, with shock kits) and would I need to buy anything else apart from the springs themself i.e shocks, extra parts? (I'm new to this) I run refurbed 13" VW steels at the moment. Very much appreciated!

Hi, I currently run on a set of JOM Coilovers. As far as Budget coilies go...they're pretty decent for the money but i'm getting abit tired of bouncing around and smashing into potholes. I'm worried i'm going to crack an alloy with the state of the roads these days!!! So..... I've looked on DPM Performance and found the AP Shocks and Springs package that claims to lower 40mm on the front and 30mm on the rear. Has anyone fitted these? I'm looking for a decent looking ride height, but not bothered about been "slammed" anymore (done my fair share of scraping now) but while still retaining some comfort, just something to absorb the crap road surfaces we all have to endure! If anyone is running this set up please post a pic, preferably around 6 weeks after they were fitted so I can see the "settled" result. Cheers,