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Looking at H&R Cup Kit (35mm all round) Anyone got pics of them on a Mk2?

Hello! I have an 83 Breadvan and looking for the best solution to subtly lowering it. It has 14" immitation g60 wheels and I am pretty sure that any lowing on the rear is going to scrape the arch - centre of tyre sticks slightly further out than the arch. If the front it just lowered (by around 40mm on springs) will it look too top heavy? Does anyone have any other solution or experienced this? Any help welcome and appreciated! Thanks!

So I recently bought this 1.2 3 cylinder on 85k miles about 4 weeks ago. Found out yesterday that the front coilovers are shot. Looks like they've been shot long before I got the car. But still passed it's m.o.t. anyone k ow where I can get an ok set for under £200? I think it has jom coil overs but need replacement ones as the fronts are completely screwed. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated

Hello guys i recently just got some lowering springs and have only just noticed there for a 6n or 6n1, will this fit a 6n2 if so how

Hi, I have a Mk2f polo in need of some lowwwsss because its currently looking like a 4x4. However I'm on a tight budget and am thinking that lowering springs with or without new shocks is the way to go. Any advice on where to find some decently priced springs or shocks would be appreciated. Cheers, Ewan.

Hey Everyone! I have a Polo 9n (2002) 1.2 litre 3 door. I have noticed that when I go over a bump or anything in the road there is a slight knock on the front passenger side wheel assembly. Also when I go on a speed hump, it bounces down too much, to the point im worried the front bumper may scrape the ground as it bounces after the speed hump. When i get out of the car and push it down, it doesn't oscillate that much when I let it go from either front side, but it is easier to push down on the passenger side. I think the noise is from a bushing which needs replacing, however the failing suspension, do I fix that by replacing the gas strut or the spring, or the whole assembly? Do i have to replace the front set or can I just replace the passengers side. Has anyone ever done this before?

Ok so I've got lots of parts that I was hoarding for a project which has now been sold on so now these need to go. 2 x Mk2 wings - good condition bar a slight patch of surface rust at the front of each arch - £20 each Mk2 four lamp front grill with spot lights - excellent condition - £30 Mk2f front grill - excellent condition Not sure if this has ever been fitted. All black - £20 Mk2 Coupe S clock surround - excellent condition - £20 Mk2 standard clock surround - good condition - £10 2 sets of vw2 brake callipers - £50 each Set of new pistons bolts and bleed screws £10 Set of g40 grooved brake discs - £25 Omp 40mm lowering springs - have been used and show signs of wear. - £30 Mk2 glove box - £10 2x Mk2/Mk2f parcel shelf. One blue one black. Excellent condition - £10 each Set of 4 Mk2 window seals - £10 Set of g40 brake pads. Never been fitted - £10 Mk2f passenger side smoked rear light cluster - £10 Mk2 clutch release bearing. Never been fitted - £5 Prices are for part only no postage. Collection is preferred but i am happy to post stuff depending on size and weight. Feel free to PM me for postage costs. I myself am based in Eastbourne. I have pics of everything but I can upload them all on the post so feel free to PM if you would like pics of anything.

Thought I'd put together a quick post with regards to suspension kits/setups. I regularly see the same questions asked, particularly on social media with regards to suspension kits, lowering cars etc; so I thought I would try and generalise some advice. Generally, the majority of people seem to want to lower their car, which can be achieved in several ways. Cheapest option: Lowering springs. These can be bought cheaply, and of different brands and quality. Often designed with a few of the coils designed to go coil-bound under the vehicles weight, this ensures the spring is still properly seated with the suspension in full rebound, but also allows it to sit lower under its weight. Generally, you get what you pay for - the springs will tend to be a different rate to standard, and totally change the character of a car, therefore the standard dampers will no longer be matched to the rest of the vehicle. You may find it doesn't drive too great with just lowering springs, or you suffer premature wear of your dampers. Spring and shock kit: As mentioned above, damping can be an issue with lowering springs - not just the damper settings themselves, but also the range of travel the damper has - generally a lowering spring will be both shorter and stiffer, so to ensure it has the correct amount of pre-load, dampers matched to lowering springs tend to have reduced travel. You can spend between £100 and probably £1500 on a spring and shock kit. Cheaper kits will do the job - but probably won't be as good a quality, or have had any of the R&D which a more expensive kit will have had (Bilstein for example) Dependant on your vehicle platform, ride heights can be adjustable with a spring and shock kit via a circlip on the damper body, however, not as accurately as 'coilovers' Coilovers: People commonly describe a lowering kit with threaded height adjusters as coilovers, when really coilovers just means a coil spring over the damper, so technically every standard polo has coilovers on at least the front, and on the rear on some models too. However, for ease of description, coilovers are a spring and damper kit, which generally has threaded adjusters for adjusting ride heights. This is what people tend to go for to get their cars really low (although a lot of them aren't actually approved to go as low as people run them) These are great for tweaking your ride heights, and particularly if you have a track car, setting up the corner weights accurately. Again, you get what you pay for, cheap coilovers can be had for around £150 and up to and over £2000. Cheaper ones tend to again 'do the job' by lowering the car, however handling and ride quality tend to be somewhat sacrificed. More premium brands such as KW put more development into their kits, therefore you are paying towards that, but essentially end up with a better product. Air Ride I don't really have any experience with after market air suspension, so wouldn't like to comment on what is good and bad. Air will let you drive your car at a sensible height, then release air from the air springs to lower your car to look better. Air springs can be a very tunable component, however I have no idea how much thought is put into this for after market kits. Certainly sleeve bags can be made to have linear and non linear rates so you could essentially make a great kit if the effort was made. From what I have seen a lot of kits use bellow style bags, which I don't really know anything about. Air can be bought cheaply second hand, or you could pay up to £10000 getting a good kit professionally installed. Summary When it comes to suspension, the first thing you should ask yourself is 'What am I trying to achieve?' Generally you are compromising a car from what the manufacturer originally created when you start fitting after market suspension, so you need to decide what you are willing to compromise, whether that be ride quality, handling, durability, practicality and so on. Personally I would save up as much as possible to buy the best quality kit you can, it may even pay to buy a premium Spring and Shock kit, instead of a cheap coilover kit. I have witnessed lots of horrors with after market suspension kits, with regards to how they are fitted, or removing parts to make cars lower etc. Just bare in mind, if things like helper springs and bump stops are supplied with a kit, they are supposed to be fitted - if the manufacturer didn't deem them necessary, they wouldn't put them in! When you are driving along and the vehicle goes into a heave moment, such as a small "jump" in the road the main springs become unloaded, without helper/tender springs, the force of the spring acting on the tyre contact patch is lost, the same thing happens when cornering - as the car rolls and the inside of the car essentially lifts up, the spring becomes unloaded, this results in a huge difference in contact patch loading on the tyre, which could well result in erratic and dangerous handling characteristics. Here is an example with a tender spring correctly fitted. The vehicle has its wheel off the ground, so the damper is at its maximum rebound travel, yet the spring is still preloaded: Here is an example without a tender spring fitted, note the gap at the top of the spring, this means there is a lot less force acting on the tyre (basically just the weight of the unsprung mass hanging down) but also when the suspension is compressed again it will have very little force due to no spring resistance, and then a sudden large build up of force: You will find with more expensive coilover kits, the height adjustment range is a lot less than that of cheaper ones, this is because it has been designed to work around a certain range, and optimised for that. This is a key indicator that cheaper kits which have a huge lowering range aren't perhaps as great as people think. I have tried to explain in simple terms to help people understand, but anyway, I hope this brings some help to someone!