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Found 8 results

  1. Hi guys any information on this would be much appreciated, my 1l polo has been having intermittent problems for a while and now I'm not running it because it's just too annoying having to wait 10-20 minutes to let's it cool off before it runs.... It has been serviced and has had lots of parts put on it such as new leads, a complete new distributor including rotary arm and cap, new coil pack I've drained the cooling system completely and refilled, it's had new temp sensors put on it and I've tested the fan works with a hair grip across the terminals and it runs, have swap out the sensor in the radiator with another one I have which hasn't helped, there are no fuses blown so I am a bit lost with it now. Before I changed the distributor it wouldn't restart straight away but now it fires after cutting out and runs until it cuts out with no warning, my temperature gauge stopped working after swapping out the temp sensors I don't think this is related in any way, the car used to bunny hop a little bit now and again ages ago, it also had a loss of power while driving in gear and cutting out... That's all I can think of currently if I think of anything else I will add it in later! Thanks in advance for any advice, Billy.
  2. Having some trouble starting my 1993 1.3 Spi AAV. Usually when it's cold it will turn over, fire and then cut out immediately. It usually does this a couple of times before starting up with a small splutter and then running absolutely fine. When the engine is warm it will fire up no problem, and general running is spot on. Now I first thought that the blue temp sensor was to blame, so changed this with a known good one, with no difference. I then bought a brand new sensor, with still no difference. I then had a 1.8 golf throttle body so decided to swap that with the 1.3 throttle body, keeping the 1.3 injector. No difference, in fact I would say it is worse starting with it on, but I think there is a slight air leak one one of the vacuum lines. Heres a video of the problem: Other than the temp sensor and the throttle body I've also recently done the plugs, leads, distributor cap and rotor arm. The battery on it isn't great but always gets the car going so I don't think voltage drop is an issue. Cheers in advance
  3. AtliHeimirArnarson

    car should start but doesnt

    Hi I am new to this site and was hoping anyone knows something that can help. The thing is i have a polo 2004 1,2 engine and it wons start. The engine cranks just fine but no joy, I have spark, fuel, error free computer, and compression of 11 bar on two cylinders and 9 bar on the third cylinder. Yet the damn thing wont start. Has anyone ever heard of something like this or hopefully solved something like this with high hopes and thanks in advance
  4. Polo 6N -98 1,6 AEE Hello! I'm having a problem where I have no Idle until my car is on normal temp but it only works for about 15 seconds from time to time then the engine stalls, and also my car wont start if i'm not pushing down the throttle pedal. This all happened after an electrical failure in my left hand side aftermarket headlight with crappy connectors. When i turned on the ignition all the lightning in my left hand side headlight was emitting light but very dim or low (low beam, high beam, parking light & angeleyes) so instead of turning it of i started to switch between different lighting setups (like low beam, parking lights only etc.) and on parking lights only it worked perfectly but as i switched to fullbeam my auxillary lamps wouldn't turn off, so i guess there was a short curcuit somewhere... however, as I tried to turn the engine on it just wouldn't start. The starter motor rotates, the engine rotates but it does sound like it's fairl easy to pull around and sometimes it sounds like it wants to starts so badly, like one or two cylinder/s actually ignites. VagCom returns me an error code for Idle motor/regulator so i replaced the throttlebody to a used one just now and I still have the same problem. I did however loosen the hose for the canister purge solenoid valve and then it started and idled normally but I don't think that's the problem. When you start it with the throttle pedal down and keep it at about 1000 rpm you can actually feel a vibration coming from the throttle body itself. Could actually feel it when i reved it by hand from the engine bay too. It comes from the butterfly/throttle When you turn the key to "ON" the throttlebody emitts a dim beeping noise for about 4 seconds and the butterfly makes a clicking noise both at the start and the end of the beeping sequence. The question is... Is there something else than the throttle body that controlls the engine idle? Have I completely toasted the ECU? PS. I did also have an error code on the Oxygen sensor and MAP-Sensor saying singal Intermittent but they did not return as the Idle one did after deletion.
  5. DuranCummins2

    Engine Problems

    I have a Volkswagen Polo 6n2 1.4 16v (First Car) since buying the car it has always hunted for revs at idle, a few months ago the exhaust system light came on the dash, it was found to be a faulty lambda sensor and was changed due to the vehicle still being under warranty. Just recently the car struggles really badly to start after a short journey (once the engine has heated up) but starts perfectly when cold. A few weeks after being replaced and the car now being out of warranty the exhaust system light has come on again, I plugged the diagnostic kit in which came back with "running lean bank 1" which is pre cat right? Anyway I have left this as I cannot afford a new lambda sensor plus I cannot see why the lambda sensor would cause the vehicle to hunt while at idle and the car runs perfect once it starts. I then began to investigate the rough idle, i checked the vacuum hose for leaks by spraying brake cleaner over them and listening for a change in idle...nothing, I then decided to take out my throttle body and give a clean with carburettor cleaner and refitted the hunting problem still there, also when the car is hunting at idle the throttle opens and closes without touching the throttle. So I then changed the spark plugs, air filter, fuel filter and oil and still no difference. Next I decided to put a concentrated additive (redex) to clean my injectors. this did nothing so I ordered a new fuel filter as I thought it may be clogged this again did nothing it still hunts at idle quite bad. I need to know if there are any more hoses I need to check (the breather hose has a build-up of sediment so is it worth cleaning that properly) I really don't want to fork out money for a lambda sensor if this is not the problem. I have heard that changing the coolant temp sensor can fix this problem? Don’t think it’s a faulty starter motor or coil pack as the engine does crank over and starts perfectly when cold. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Cheers Duran.
  6. I have a polo 6n2 1.0l and the past few times after driving it at high rmp it struggles to start once turned off and sometimes the revs will dip and it willl cut out, but once it is running it runs fine, does anyone know what the cause of this problem may be and also how to fix it, Thanks
  7. Pepy

    Remote noob

    Hi all, Sorry if this has been asked/answered already, I did have a look through several search results and threads but couldn't find a definitive answer. Starting out on mods for my polo (reached its old age, decided not to sell it so its going to be run until she dies ) and first on my list is remote centrel locking. After some looking around online I found I could either get the OEM style following this guide http://www.clubpolo.co.uk/forum/index.php?showtopic=204921 or go for a third party one with slightly more features. Being the gadget man I am I decided to get as much as possible into it, so I found this: http://www.rclick.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=762 Seems to do pretty much everything a modern car would, but squeezed into a little ole 9n (plus the remote start/roll up windows would annoy my Dad who's brand new car does't have these functions) Has anyone had any experience with these kits? The low price is tempting but will I sacrifice quality? (I don't want to be locked out my car when the spare is 140 miles away haha) My next question is if I was to go for the remote start option which requires a key to be mounted in the car, would I be able to buy a blank key and transponder chip, program the chip to the car and use it as the mounted one, meaning I Have 1 spare, 1 to drive with and one to mount? Having done some reading it seems I can swap the transponders from my old keys to the new ones in the kit, and then program the new one by following step 9 from the above guide? Or am I being vastly optimistic? Any help would be greatly appreciated, not as good as wiring and car electrics as I would like to be! Pepy
  8. Hello all, I've recently fitted a brand new starter motor and a brand new battery, The car won't start and the only way it will run is if i push it off, I had some earthing issues with smoking etc, sorted them, now all the starter motor does is just click. Thats it, won't turn over at all. Unusure. Anyone got any ideas what i can do, its really frustrating!!
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