Notice to Hotmail/Gmail & BT Internet users - Please check your SPAM/JUNK folders for our emails. Please add our email as a contact to your email account.
Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'subframe'.
Found 3 results
Hi guys Can I have some opinions on the ppp stage 3 subframe on the road handling wise. Comparisons, difference etc. I’ve been considering it for ages. I’m on a bilstein/eibach kit about 45mm drop, and running a stiffened rear beam, what’s it like loosing the front roll bar? I know it is designed for track and may wear but i fancy the independent front end on the road. Cheers
Hi all, Drilled through my rack today after trying to remove a broken bolt in the gearbox to subframe captive nut, any info on how to replace please and can I just drop subframe with rack on? or is it easier to take rack out from the side, front or rear? can I get away with just dropping front part of exhaust too? thanks all Polo 9n 1.2
At last I think I have cracked my valve to piston clearance problem by a bit more care measuring and adding another head gasket. After talking to my mechanic friend he agreed a decompression plate should have head gasket on both sides of it for adequate sealing on the head especially under boost. The result is now, I have plenty of valve to piston clearance even if the cambelt breaks but the stock cambelt is now a struggle to get on and only just fits. The big unknown is now the dynamic compression ratio and whether it is enough to run the engine off boost and the drivability of that compression ratio. Most of the problem is that I have not built a stoked engine before with rods that are not a stock length. Also the Wossener pistons don't have the valve relief that stock pistons have. For those who have a stage 2 subframe for a Mk2 is it best to install the frame before the engine and gearbox or the other way around? My thoughts at the moment are to lower the car on to the engine and gearbox and then bolting on the subframe afterwards. Please could I have some comments? Regards Phil