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Found 15 results

  1. Hi guys, I posted earlier and got a very prompt response and it was greatly appreciated! I am getting married in little over 6 weeks time and hope to get my beloved mk2f coupe on the road again for the big day. The car has been off the road for some time and I asked my dad to charge the battery for me. I came home today to see that my dad loosened the cam and slipped the timing belt off and turned the cam by hand (for some reason). I am in a position now where my Haynes manual has disappeared and I need to know what damage has potentially been done/how to resolve it. I have taken a picture of how it is at the minute and note that the 2 white dots line up however I am unsure if this is of any significance. Any assistance would be appreciated. Cheers, Vinny
  2. Finally got my timing marks perfect and got to the point of setting the z with the strobe.so I did so by removing blue temp sender holding revs at 2000 and moved to z ‘mark.took car out for a drive ran nicely but zero boost.came back this time didn’t hold the Revs at 2000 just moved the mark to z and car now has nice boost but the mark is now not at z.what is going on?i only decided to try it without holding the revs as I did read some g40s don’t need the Rebs holding to set the mark.can anyone shed some light on this please I’m so nearly there
  3. I’ve had my g rebuilt and sadly it came back running like a sack of spuds.i recently discovered the car came back with the timing was a tooth and a half out.so I’ve had ago at putting it right myself as I’ve done it numerous times but as soon as I line my marks up and put the belt on and attempt to tighten the water pump the crank pulley mark moves.does anyone have an explanation as to what could be the problem and how I rectify it please.
  4. MK2F GT: I'm trying to understand TDC vs ignition and how a belt tooth either way can affect performance: Which direction on crank pulley timing notch will advance the ignition, if that's the right term for this - clockwise when facing crank/cam sprockets toward the forward edge of timing gap, or counterclockwise toward rear of gap? I timed the crank pulley slightly clockwise lined up with forward edge of the gap which ended up bang in the middle after a couple of rotations. I think it was further back last change at the other end of the gap which it's been running like for past 2 1/2 years. I don't know if it's the current weather - thought hot & dry weather was slower than cold & condensation though? But the engine seems to have more torque now. Engine seems more 'alive' compared to before but I thought having the pistons fire after TDC further down on their travel (clockwise at gap) would decrease power as more volume? Surely more power = more anticlockwise back at TDC or have I got any of this wrong? Want to learn - please help me understand 🙂
  5. Hi all, when I bought my 6n (1.4 CL) the bloke I got it from told me his father had done the timing belt in 2016 at what can only be 10K miles ago. He had No receipts or anything to prove but being a silly youth I bought the car. It has now occurred to me that the timing belt to me does not look all that “fresh”. Has a kind of thin zebra pattern on the back of the belt buT I can still read the Print. See pics attached, is changing the belt a hard job? My Haynes manual always makes jobs seem more complicated than they really are. Cheers in advance
  6. MonsterL35YFP

    Setting timing

    Hello I'm in need of some advice, iv replaced the head gasket on my AAV and before I put the head on I put the pistons on TDC by feeling the top of the pistons but it puts the crank pulley mark on the 0, I'm just wondering if this it normal? because the Haynes manual says it's meant to be on the Z of the belt cover. I have turned the engine over twice by hand and it moves spot on no noises, anything advice would be great. I will post pictures later on today.
  7. Hi all, can anyone tell me how to time up an AAU MK2F when the timing belt has gone? No plastic engine cover with arrows to time to?? thanks in advance
  8. Can anybody tell me what do i have to do if the two indentations do not line up at the same time ? When the pulley on the top of engine is lined up, the bottom one is off by about 1-2 centimeters. thank you
  9. I've wrote a previous thread about this problem but this has now been going on for over 3 months now.my g40 will not run properly and when it does decide to run it runs like a bag of nails.when I turn the key all that happeneds is the fuel pump primes and you can hear he hall sender click and then fuel squirt out of the injectors.both timing marks are perfectly lined up and I think the problem lies with the distrubitor and it's an ignition timing problem.the car has had new coil pack,rotary arm,distrubitor cap,leads,plugs,alternator,starter motor,lamba sensor and battery.but for some reason the car will just not do what I want it to do.the leads are in the correct order as I say my timing marks line up what else could be the problem?if anyone has any ideas please feel free to advise me as I'm going insane many thanks matt
  10. I've recently replaced my distrubitor so whilst doing so I marked where the old one sat and put the leads back in the correct firing order and now it seems to have a massive misfiring problem.ive gone off both timing marks and also put a screwdriver down cylinder number one.i lined it up with the o and moved it to the z with a timing light and still it misfires really bad.it ticks over pretty nicely as far as g40s go but when I took it out for a drive it has no go and zero boost and it's hunting for revs,tries cutting out and generally runs like a turd.does anyone have any advice to get my beloved g40 running like it used to as I'm getting really frustrated now.many thanks matt
  11. hi, i have bought a polo 6n that has a later 1.4 8v engine but is not running right. i have tried looking at the timing as the previous person has stated it hasn't run right since his friend 'a vw specialist' changed the timing belt. there is no cover on the timing belt and no back cover, now i can only see online to time these engines you need the back plate to time the cam shaft to. is there any other way i can time this engine? thanks
  12. Hello guys, i don't think this question has been asked previously, but apologies if it has. Have recently replaced the distributor on my 6n 1.4 AEX, due to it squeaking (Lube required on the bushing, realized this after it was already replaced). when the new one was put on the timing was checked and therefore it wasn't running to my liking, so i changed it back to the old one again. The old one was marked up with a line from the engine to the Dizzy to ensure the new one lined up correctly, would i still need to get the timing checked? As i've connected it back up in line how it originally was. I've had a couple of opinions advising the engine is running fine, however i believe it's not as smooth.. the exhaust slightly gurgles off throttle but cant remember if it did this before.. i THINK it feels slightly down on power but that could be my paranoia.. engine starts and runs fine. My question here is, would the timing be out if i've lined the Dizzy up to how it was before? as i'm reading so many forums about timing and i seem to be confusing myself. thanks in advance for the responses
  13. Hello hello, thought I'd introduce myself real quick and dive right into my project and a question about it I have. My name is Manuel, I'm originally from Germany and moved to California earlier this year. It would've broken my hear to leave my 1982 mk2 Derby behind after having fully restored it in college. So I decided, screw that, and put it on a ship. I had a bit of a Frankenstein engine made of bits and pieces I had flying around and it turns out the bottom end I used wasn't as solid as I would've liked. So I blew it up. On to bigger and better things, I joined this forum and bought heartagram's gti engine that he is busily prepping for shipping :) It's a 1.6 16V out of a 2000 6n2 gti, so that would make it either an AVY or ARC engine code. I'm going to run the following setup: - Bike carbs (bought a kit from DanST a few months back and couldn't be happier. Not a big fan of injection) - Megajolt Lite Jr. for the ignition - VVT to tune the variable intake cam timing My question to you fine gearheads is this: Does anyone have the stock (or slightly modded) timing maps for this engine? I would love to have a baseline that I can tweak to my specific application. Starting from scratch is...tricky to say the least. I don't even know where this engine sparks at idle - I'm guessing 5 Degrees BTDC? And also - and this is a shot in the dark - does anyone have the Map files for the variable valve timing as well? I could load a stock miata file and see how it goes. I'll keep you guys posted on the progress of the engine swap :) Thanks Manuel
  14. Hi, I'm looking for a new timing belt and there are more than one available online and I don't want to count the teeth on my existing belt.... The engine numbers don't match the ones on website whatsoever on euro car parts, been looking for ages and I'm getting bored of it! Looked at a previous post and it said there were at least 3 different belts and didn't really help me much! I've got a L reg 1994 1.0l coupe. If anyone can help or point me in the right direction that would be great!
  15. Hey ladies and gentlemen, I'm wanting to get my 2001 6n2 TDI timed but don't want to tackle it alone. Is there anyone out there from the west yorkshire area willing to help?
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