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Found 20 results

  1. Pretty happy how the engine is running now on the twin DHLA40s, especially now the accelerator pedal can open the throttle plates fully Running 30mm chokes with 119 main jet and 200 air corrector. It's all good until about 6100rpm when it becomes a bit sluggish. It's not leaning out, I've played with smaller air correctors and 130 main jet and holey .10 emulsion tube and race tubes both .5 and .7 and I can vary the mixture from 13.2:1 to 12.3:1 at 5500rpm. It's not over rich, a 116 main jet gives 12.8:1 and behaves much the same at high end, but starts a bit late, so midrange is weakened, and I'm not extending idle jet or messing with progression holes to counteract. Once I reach 6000rpm there's some hesitation. I know engine will hit 6800rpm with the Pierburg or a twin choke Weber DMTL on the GK manifold. I'm using trumpets with Ramair foam socks. They are a bit close to the firewall, but I think I can see ram effect pressure (from -8psi cruise vacuum to +0.3psi). Three ideas 30mm chokes are too small foam filters are compressing into the trumpets to not let air through the Aldon Amethyst rev limiter is very subtle (set for 7000rpm, original Dignition limiter is 6800rpm and sudden) So, realising the dello's have been on for 2 years I have given the foam filters a good clean with the raidHP/ramair cleaner and I'll re-impregnate them with the correct polymer snake oil. Might have a short blast without the filters. Or try again with a Sorg inlet plenum but that makes jet changes annoyingly hard.
  2. I've fitted a 32tlm Weber carb from a 957cc Ford fiesta to my 1043cc early mech head polo and it seems to be running lean no matter how much I adjust the mixture screw so was wondering if anyone has any advice or could reccomend a rolling road that stocks jets ect to suit Weber 32tlm in the north east preferably Tyne and wear aera as I dont really want to make any long journeys while the mixture isn't right although the car does seem to be starting and driving fine, or as good as the old solex on perished rubber flange did if not slightly better Thanks Dan.
  3. Hi! I've been meaning to get around to fixing the carb on my old Mk2, and I'm playing with the idea of doing a weber conversion. I am at the stage of working out how feasible this is in terms of parts availability. I know that there used to be whole conversions available but, of course, now there aren't... right? Although it does look like there has been a new run of the carbs themselves being produced. I know that the names (DMTR/DMTL) just tell you what side the throttle is on. What do the numbers mean? Guessing venturi size, but what is appropriate for a 1.3 litre engine? I can find an adaptor plate on webcon for £43, but I don't know about any of the rest of the kit (choke cable, air box mounting, studs, etc). What's a good way to go about this? Sorry if I'm asking stuff that's already been answered, there's a couple of old (10 year old) threads, but it looks like things have changed a bit.
  4. Hi I was running bike carbs so had all coolant pipes connected and some blocked to run the carbs, I've now sold the bike carbs and going to use a Weber carb, do I need to re plumb the coolant system back into the original manifold or can I run it dry seeing the Weber does not have the heating element. Be very handy it I could as I wouldn't have to drain the system or will this not end well Cheers
  5. Anyone know what the float height of the dmtl should be? Many thanks
  6. I'm posting this on behalf of my dad who has a 1989 Mk2 Polo. He used the car daily for a number of years with the original Pierburg fitted. Laterally he was having some issues with the carburation so he fitted a manual choke Weber kit but it never ran properly. Anyway in the intervening period he put the car off the road until now, probably ten years later he has decided to get it back out and on the road. Aware of the carburation issue he removed and cleaned the carb' but the problem still exists. It starts perfectly (manual choke) and idles perfectly. The problem is it won't take any throttle unless it is applied very progressively. If the throttle is suddenly opened the engine just dies. Even when opened progressively there is a slight misfire occurring as the rev's rise. In real driving terms it is impossible to pull away on even the slightest gradient as the engine just dies under load when the throttle is opened. We did discover that the carb mount was split so this has been replaced however it didn't make any difference. Taking the hit/miss approach we also replaced the pump but again it made no difference. Any advice would be welcome as he is keen to get the car back on the road, even if just to sell it. As far as I know it has done this from day one when the carb' was fitted. Around the same time he had the head off due to an oil leak so the manifold gasket is new therefore unlikely to be leaking. As it idles perfectly I don't suspect a vacuum leak anyway. A couple of years ago we did suspect the accelerator pump wasn't jetting so we replaced the jet that appeared to be blocked. Opening the throttle fully does produce a good jet of fuel therefore I'm sure this can be ruled out. Any advice would be much appreciated.
  7. Got the Weber running okay ish, with the Webber, the co2 reading is 1.3 is this okay? Any ideas?
  8. anyone know where I can get a solid (not rubber) carb mount for the mk2 that instead of having the pierburg mounting, has mounding holes for the weber 32/34 dmtl, I want the carb to sit lower, because the flying saucer has allready rubbed paint off the side of my bonnet😡
  9. Anyone got the best jetting sizing for a 32/34 DMTL 1.3 mh
  10. Hi everyone I am new to VW and really enjoying my 89 breadvan with a 1.3 manual choke Weber carb. I have recently been having a problem with the engine it has started to misfire and will only run if the choke is out hot or cold and won't idle it just cuts out. You can drive it with the choke out but you can feel it misfiring at low engine RPM, if you accelerate it's fine and doesn't miss but with choke in and dip the clutch it just immediately dies. Can anyone help it would be much appreciated I am completely stumped as where to begin looking. Thanks
  11. As title suggests, currently running a stock solex carb on a 1983, 1043cc breadvan. Runs rough at the moment. Can anyone recommend a rebuild kit for the solex 31 pic 7, (according to Haynes,) or recommend a simple to fit, easily obtainable replacement? Doesn't have to be weber if anyone has had luck with other brands of carb. Thanks for stopping by and any xp you can drop. Take it easy all.
  12. Hi all, First post, apologies if it's been covered before but I couldn't find anything in the FAQ or search to help me out with this. I've just bought my first mk2 and it's got the weber 32 tla carb with auto-choke. The clown who sold it to me had tried to start it up by pouring petrol directly into the carb and the resulting fire managed to take out most of vacuum routing and wiring to the carb. I'm in the process of getting everything back together but the Haynes isn't much help. If anyone has nice clear pics of the tubes and wires on their weber carbs it would really help me out. Thanks! :) -Neil
  13. Has anyone run into issues with the high speed enrichment circuit on a Weber DMTR or DMTL? It's a side hole high up on the secondary bore right near the top, which dumps fuel in (metered only by a fixed small brass bush) when the secondary is open and venturi vacuum is high enough. I thought I'd checked my float level was OK, but I can't lean out the secondary stage at all! So I'm suspecting this circuit to be the issue. Even trying out with tiny secondary jets (105,F30,220,70) this thing is rich as a dog at over ~3000rpm on WOT This is on a 32 DMTR with 22/22 venturis on a 1.3L Mk2. I'm tempted to block the circuit off completely somehow (hate that word) Could it be an indication of bigger issues (as I say the float level I thought was OK) like maybe just the carb is too small for the engine, or the K&N air filter is restrictive, needle valve duff etc. If I was to get a vacuum gauge hooked up to test the too-small carb theory, what values should I be seeing at WOT for example? Cheers
  14. Hey guys, I recently *finally* sorted out my exhaust as it was riddled with holes. My main reason was the awful fume smell in the cab, but secondary to that, she tended to idle fine but then splutter a little bit as you first hit the throttle to build revs. If you were too quick with the clutch, it would bog down and possibly stall. Now the exhaust is done, I assume the back pressure is correct and the revs build quite nicely and she hasn't tried to stall on me at all. But I still get a characteristic that I had before. Cruising along in 4th at 30mph (essentially with the engine at around idle speed), if I give it any kind of extra throttle with this extra load, the engine coughs slightly before responding. Now I assume this is probably mixture, as the exhaust now seems gas-tight. Am I right? Cheers Alex EDIT: Forgot to mention that this only happens when engine is warm, and I have a Weber carb
  15. Anyone used this carb on a mk2 1.3 before? May be buying one that has been fitted to a 1.3 jetta previously. How hard would it be to do the swap and any tips?
  16. So i fitted a 32/34 dmtr to mk2 polo 1.3 and after having to remove my return line to get it enough fuel to it so that the second chamber could work i thought that would be it. After doing another 300 or so miles i went to drive home from work last night when it seems that when ever the throttle was slightly or barely touched it would splutter and try to cut out, however when foot to the floor using second chamber it drove fine with no problems? Also whilst sitting at idle this morning try the same revs it still happened? any thoughts? Cheers
  17. hi, my current carb has a fault auto choke and it stead of fixing it i want to replace it with a more tunable efficient carb. However i need help getting the right carb for a slight performance on my 1ltr. I will not do an engine swap as my engine on has 19,000 miles on it. Can people help out as I'm not sure what carb is subtle and weather stuff for it will be custom. Would this carb fit? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-GOLF-JETTA-1272cc-1983-90-WEBER-32-34-DMTL-CARB-CARBURETTOR-REPLACES-PIERBURG-/201021565958?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2ecdd1ac06
  18. hey y'all, sooner or later ill be getting a weber to replace my pierburg carb, but i was wondering where i can get an adapter for the new weber? anyone got one for sale on here?
  19. Hey there guys, first post on this forum, after trolling through many a forum to try and find answers i have yet to find any. I have a '89 mk2 squareback, 1043cc with a weber tla which doesnt like to idle at all, I've changed the base flange as it was split and leaking air and ever since it has been idling like a dog, sometimes wont even fire up at all, what I've noticed is that the choke flap is fully verticle all of the time weather the car is running or not hot or cold, ,it will stay at its almost closed position and idle fine if i push it back by hand but as soon as i touch the throttle it springs back into the verticle position and stays there and the revs jutter around like mad like its trying to cut out, I'm assuming its something to do with the choke as it should be almost closed at cold, the water pipes and choke housing do get hot so water is getting to it, do any of you guys know what my problem could be and how to sort it out or would it be easier to just convert to manual choke? Cheers Alex
  20. mark_crox

    VWMotoring_1991_08

    6 downloads

    VW Motorings Mk2 Coupe S Project car gets a Weber 32 DMTR carb fitted at Aldon Automotive. Fitting a Taifun Grill
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