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Found 16 results

  1. Hi, I've been struggling with my Weber carb for a while now, and I'm getting a bit bored of it. I have a DMTL 32/34 on a Mk2 Polo 2G engine, which is stock. Jetted as (from left to right, as seen from the front of the car, looking towards the back, with the throttle cable on the left): 70 | 185 - F30 - 120 | 155 - F22 - 100 | 45 Problems: All of these are on a hot engine with no choke. At Idle: No idle unless the mixture screw is 2.5 turns out. It's a little unstable but it's not obviously hunting (could be normal?) Coming off idle: Poor throttle response - 0.5 second delay, followed by a noticable lurch forward. Throttle feels like an on-off switch in low gears. Slowly opening to full throttle: Loss of power as second stage opens up, but no obvious misfire. Quickly opening to full throttle: Car hesitates, then lurches forward. I have tried: Searching for vacuum leaks. I have been spraying carb cleaner at the base of the carb, and at the hose connections. Nothing obvious. Timing. Ignition timing has been set and checked, with the vac advance unplugged and capped off. Twiddling the idle mixture screw. Highest idle speed is about 2.5-3 turns out. Cleaning. I have had the entire carb apart and thoroughly sprayed everything with carb cleaner. Float valve works. No obvious blockages. Mixture screw is air tight. Accelerator pump seems to work correctly and doesn't leak. Questions... At what point am I looking at jetting issues rather than something else? I have the Pierburg's old swirl pot (?) connected up and cable tied in place. So far I have the fuel going in at the top, the return in the middle, and the line off to the carb at the bottom. What's the proper way to connect it up?
  2. Might need some bonnet surgery for a power bulge... Think it is 166mm high without any gasket!
  3. Does anyone know how this weber 32 TLM is supposed to be connected to the choke cable?
  4. Pretty happy how the engine is running now on the twin DHLA40s, especially now the accelerator pedal can open the throttle plates fully Running 30mm chokes with 119 main jet and 200 air corrector. It's all good until about 6100rpm when it becomes a bit sluggish. It's not leaning out, I've played with smaller air correctors and 130 main jet and holey .10 emulsion tube and race tubes both .5 and .7 and I can vary the mixture from 13.2:1 to 12.3:1 at 5500rpm. It's not over rich, a 116 main jet gives 12.8:1 and behaves much the same at high end, but starts a bit late, so midrange is weakened, and I'm not extending idle jet or messing with progression holes to counteract. Once I reach 6000rpm there's some hesitation. I know engine will hit 6800rpm with the Pierburg or a twin choke Weber DMTL on the GK manifold. I'm using trumpets with Ramair foam socks. They are a bit close to the firewall, but I think I can see ram effect pressure (from -8psi cruise vacuum to +0.3psi). Three ideas 30mm chokes are too small foam filters are compressing into the trumpets to not let air through the Aldon Amethyst rev limiter is very subtle (set for 7000rpm, original Dignition limiter is 6800rpm and sudden) So, realising the dello's have been on for 2 years I have given the foam filters a good clean with the raidHP/ramair cleaner and I'll re-impregnate them with the correct polymer snake oil. Might have a short blast without the filters. Or try again with a Sorg inlet plenum but that makes jet changes annoyingly hard.
  5. Hi, just installed a new Weber DMTL using a kit (from fastroadcars). Standard jets, which according to the topics I've read should be fairly ok for this OK. Not getting any idle, with the choke pulled out all the way it surges up to 3k and almost stalls, then back again. Had a little fiddle with the idle mixture adjustment screw, not doing much. The rubber flange (?) on the inlet/base of the carb is pretty crusty. I'm thinking that's a possible culprit. Does anyone have any other ideas or things to try?
  6. I've fitted a 32tlm Weber carb from a 957cc Ford fiesta to my 1043cc early mech head polo and it seems to be running lean no matter how much I adjust the mixture screw so was wondering if anyone has any advice or could reccomend a rolling road that stocks jets ect to suit Weber 32tlm in the north east preferably Tyne and wear aera as I dont really want to make any long journeys while the mixture isn't right although the car does seem to be starting and driving fine, or as good as the old solex on perished rubber flange did if not slightly better Thanks Dan.
  7. Hi! I've been meaning to get around to fixing the carb on my old Mk2, and I'm playing with the idea of doing a weber conversion. I am at the stage of working out how feasible this is in terms of parts availability. I know that there used to be whole conversions available but, of course, now there aren't... right? Although it does look like there has been a new run of the carbs themselves being produced. I know that the names (DMTR/DMTL) just tell you what side the throttle is on. What do the numbers mean? Guessing venturi size, but what is appropriate for a 1.3 litre engine? I can find an adaptor plate on webcon for £43, but I don't know about any of the rest of the kit (choke cable, air box mounting, studs, etc). What's a good way to go about this? Sorry if I'm asking stuff that's already been answered, there's a couple of old (10 year old) threads, but it looks like things have changed a bit.
  8. Hi I was running bike carbs so had all coolant pipes connected and some blocked to run the carbs, I've now sold the bike carbs and going to use a Weber carb, do I need to re plumb the coolant system back into the original manifold or can I run it dry seeing the Weber does not have the heating element. Be very handy it I could as I wouldn't have to drain the system or will this not end well Cheers
  9. Anyone know what the float height of the dmtl should be? Many thanks
  10. I'm posting this on behalf of my dad who has a 1989 Mk2 Polo. He used the car daily for a number of years with the original Pierburg fitted. Laterally he was having some issues with the carburation so he fitted a manual choke Weber kit but it never ran properly. Anyway in the intervening period he put the car off the road until now, probably ten years later he has decided to get it back out and on the road. Aware of the carburation issue he removed and cleaned the carb' but the problem still exists. It starts perfectly (manual choke) and idles perfectly. The problem is it won't take any throttle unless it is applied very progressively. If the throttle is suddenly opened the engine just dies. Even when opened progressively there is a slight misfire occurring as the rev's rise. In real driving terms it is impossible to pull away on even the slightest gradient as the engine just dies under load when the throttle is opened. We did discover that the carb mount was split so this has been replaced however it didn't make any difference. Taking the hit/miss approach we also replaced the pump but again it made no difference. Any advice would be welcome as he is keen to get the car back on the road, even if just to sell it. As far as I know it has done this from day one when the carb' was fitted. Around the same time he had the head off due to an oil leak so the manifold gasket is new therefore unlikely to be leaking. As it idles perfectly I don't suspect a vacuum leak anyway. A couple of years ago we did suspect the accelerator pump wasn't jetting so we replaced the jet that appeared to be blocked. Opening the throttle fully does produce a good jet of fuel therefore I'm sure this can be ruled out. Any advice would be much appreciated.
  11. Got the Weber running okay ish, with the Webber, the co2 reading is 1.3 is this okay? Any ideas?
  12. anyone know where I can get a solid (not rubber) carb mount for the mk2 that instead of having the pierburg mounting, has mounding holes for the weber 32/34 dmtl, I want the carb to sit lower, because the flying saucer has allready rubbed paint off the side of my bonnet😡
  13. Anyone got the best jetting sizing for a 32/34 DMTL 1.3 mh
  14. Hi everyone I am new to VW and really enjoying my 89 breadvan with a 1.3 manual choke Weber carb. I have recently been having a problem with the engine it has started to misfire and will only run if the choke is out hot or cold and won't idle it just cuts out. You can drive it with the choke out but you can feel it misfiring at low engine RPM, if you accelerate it's fine and doesn't miss but with choke in and dip the clutch it just immediately dies. Can anyone help it would be much appreciated I am completely stumped as where to begin looking. Thanks
  15. As title suggests, currently running a stock solex carb on a 1983, 1043cc breadvan. Runs rough at the moment. Can anyone recommend a rebuild kit for the solex 31 pic 7, (according to Haynes,) or recommend a simple to fit, easily obtainable replacement? Doesn't have to be weber if anyone has had luck with other brands of carb. Thanks for stopping by and any xp you can drop. Take it easy all.
  16. Hi all, First post, apologies if it's been covered before but I couldn't find anything in the FAQ or search to help me out with this. I've just bought my first mk2 and it's got the weber 32 tla carb with auto-choke. The clown who sold it to me had tried to start it up by pouring petrol directly into the carb and the resulting fire managed to take out most of vacuum routing and wiring to the carb. I'm in the process of getting everything back together but the Haynes isn't much help. If anyone has nice clear pics of the tubes and wires on their weber carbs it would really help me out. Thanks! :) -Neil
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