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Top Fill Radiator and Battery Relocation 6n 16v


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Guest Bodyman

Going for the clean look, not smoothing because I'm not a big fan, just want to get rid of a few things, etc.

Charcoal Canister gone.

EGR's days are numbered

Oil catch tank fitted

I want to remove the expansion tank and just use a top fill radiator, I've read people use a mk1 radiator with the side expansion but wondered about other options?

Also, relocating battery to the boot, is it as easy as earthing the battery in the boot and running a long battery +VE cable through the car to where the battery +VE usually goes ( Starter )

Thanks in advance polo peeps!

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  • caretakerplus

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caretakerplus

You can put the battery in the boot BUT if you don't take a few precautions, you could end up with a starter that lacks power (due to the extra volt-drop on long lead(s)) or even control cables and brake pipes that glow in the dark!!!

For the sake of your battery, it needs to be securely fixed;

Use a positive cable of greater cross sectional area than the original. (to reduce volt-drop) The greater the CSA the less will be the volt-drop;

Rather than connecting the negative to the bodywork, use the same CSA as the +ve and extend it to the engine/gearbox, this will relieve the joints in the bodywork, control cables and brake pipes from any current-carrying duties;

Clip the cables up well - you don't want them rubbing and vibrating.

Regards.

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caretakerplus

One point that I failed to make: Even maintenance free batteries have vents, they also give off hydrogen and oxygen when they are charging, so make sure that there is plenty of ventilation (keep the vents open) and NO smoking without opening the window!

Regards again.

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DubbPrince

Firstly...if you remove the charcoal cannister, make sure you disconnect the solenoid valve (blue/black thing)...block the pipe going to the inlet manifold to stop un-metered air from entering the inlet.

With the solenoid removed- you can either relocate it and leave it connected or replace it altogether with a resistor showing the same value as the solenoid valve.

secondly- the radiator- i wouldnt bother, the mk1 rad fits slightly different- if i were you i would opt for a large VR6 radiator and use an inline filler myself but others may disagree:

http://www.dubforce.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=16810

Most dubbers tend to use the inline fillers from CSR Performance:

http://www.csr-performance.com/shop/catego...tor-hose-filler

thirdly- I have relocated the battery to the boot and no one i know has ever extended the earth lead to the engine bay LOL...whether you earth it there or you earth it somewhere else, the polo will still need to use various smaller earthing locations to complete various circuits- the airbags earth in the centre tunnel, the fusebox earths near the drivers side, the rear lights earth on the rear qaurters etc etc...the BMW's don't extend the earth either.

One thing i do agree with caretakerplus on is the gauge of power wire used.

My setup consists of a knight odyssey PC2100 which is a drycell (recommended due to the gas a normal car battery gives off-not good!)...it also has the ability to supply heavy cranking voltage and i combine that with a 0-gauge live wire going to an Audison BFD41 and then has the correctly sized wires going to the various systems.

I've just about finished doing what you're trying to do except i kept my header tank and left the screen wash where they were- else theres a big gap and you need to look into smoothing the bay.

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MikeyMK

Many Hondas use top-fill radiators,proper old style with metal filler caps too. Plenty of late '90s Rover Civics in breakers atm. Pipe outlets wont be in the right place but that'd be easy enough to sort without being ugly.

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famoussas08

For mine i used a filler out the back of a MR2... got one in the scrap yard for £2... cut some of the plastic off and bolted it to the starter motor :)

Works a treat and also means the filler will be located behind the engine!!

Edited by famoussas08
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caretakerplus

The problem with earthing to the bodywork is that the starter motor draws more current than ALL of the other electrical units put together, admittedly only for a few seconds, but you really do need all of the volts that you can get to it, especially on a cold morning.

By earthing to the engine, you ensure that you get the best possible starting performance. All of the other electrics will be quite happy picking up their earth from the bodywork.

Just to illustrate my point, a conservative estimate of current drawn by a cold engine ( it takes a lot more turning over than a hot one) is 800 Amps. 800x12Volts = 9,600 Watts, that's like 3 three bar electric fires plus half a dozen 100 Watt bulbs!! Add to the equation the fact that the poor old battery is not at its most efficient when freezing cold, and you could have a problem.

Regards.

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Guest Bodyman

Would using an inline filler mean it's possible to keep the standard rad? Just piece the filler into the top radiator hose?

Battery earthing to the seatbelt mount in the back, or an earth foot, then just tidy up the earths in the engine bay to the chassis points?

Not a difficult bay to tidy the AFH MK4 is it?

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DubbPrince
Would using an inline filler mean it's possible to keep the standard rad? Just piece the filler into the top radiator hose?

Battery earthing to the seatbelt mount in the back, or an earth foot, then just tidy up the earths in the engine bay to the chassis points?

Not a difficult bay to tidy the AFH MK4 is it?

yes it would mean you keep your standard rad- i figured you could upgrade it to a VR6 one if you wanted so it holds more coolant and yes it would just go inline on the top hose.

I have earthed mine to a hole in the rear but i dont have rear seats anyway so it was easy for me...and yes, just tidy the earths in the bay. To compromise what caretaker is saying- perhaps you can use thicker earth cables (0gauge) or use little and more of them (4gauge).

The battery shouldnt really be too cold and should be fine providing the cranking voltage if you opt for a drycell.

If you go for a normal car battery then you will really need a battery box and vent which should also aid keeping the battery warmer than sitting in a cold bay.

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DubbPrince
For mine i used a filler out the back of a MR2... got one in the scrap yard for £2... cut some of the plastic off and bolted it to the starter motor :)

Works a treat and also means the filler will be located behind the engine!!

so you bolted an MR2 top hose filler to your starter motor?? :shock: thats impressive...gotta love the fireworks when you pour water into your starter :lol:

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famoussas08
For mine i used a filler out the back of a MR2... got one in the scrap yard for £2... cut some of the plastic off and bolted it to the starter motor :)

Works a treat and also means the filler will be located behind the engine!!

so you bolted an MR2 top hose filler to your starter motor?? :shock: thats impressive...gotta love the fireworks when you pour water into your starter :lol:

Its on the other side of the starter motor - all i use is a funnel to fill up and away you go :) - it works a treat!!

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polo6n2g40

have to say i agree with dubbprince on earthing, all the bmw's never ran a seperate earth to the bay from the boot on the old 325s i used to build. i'm sure the lupo gti doesn't either.

as long as you have a decent sized eath from engine / box to chassis in the bay and decent one in the boot i don't see an issue. i seen people use diesel batteries to increase cold cranking power too.

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polo6n2g40
For mine i used a filler out the back of a MR2... got one in the scrap yard for £2... cut some of the plastic off and bolted it to the starter motor :)

Works a treat and also means the filler will be located behind the engine!!

so you bolted an MR2 top hose filler to your starter motor?? :shock: thats impressive...gotta love the fireworks when you pour water into your starter :lol:

Its on the other side of the starter motor - all i use is a funnel to fill up and away you go :) - it works a treat!!

you do know header tank should be the highest point in the bay as it's a self bleeding system?

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Guest Bodyman
For mine i used a filler out the back of a MR2... got one in the scrap yard for £2... cut some of the plastic off and bolted it to the starter motor :)

Works a treat and also means the filler will be located behind the engine!!

so you bolted an MR2 top hose filler to your starter motor?? :shock: thats impressive...gotta love the fireworks when you pour water into your starter :lol:

Its on the other side of the starter motor - all i use is a funnel to fill up and away you go :) - it works a treat!!

you do know header tank should be the highest point in the bay as it's a self bleeding system?

I was thinking that haha.

Seems a VR rad for the bigger capacity and an inline filler in the top hose is the way to go! Or even keeping the valver rad.

I thought earthing the battery to the boot floor and then earthing all the engine bay leads would be fine, thanks for clarifying!

Long term plans are bride buckets and a rollcage, so rear seats would be long gone so theres no problems there.

Vent pipe as on the PH2 Clios ( Can't you tell I'm a renault tech haha ) and a battery box/bag from a Gen4 golf was my plan.

Thanks alot people, seems a good knowledge base on here, some people who offer advice when they dont know them selves seems to be a small issue though!

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famoussas08
For mine i used a filler out the back of a MR2... got one in the scrap yard for £2... cut some of the plastic off and bolted it to the starter motor :)

Works a treat and also means the filler will be located behind the engine!!

so you bolted an MR2 top hose filler to your starter motor?? :shock: thats impressive...gotta love the fireworks when you pour water into your starter :lol:

Its on the other side of the starter motor - all i use is a funnel to fill up and away you go :) - it works a treat!!

you do know header tank should be the highest point in the bay as it's a self bleeding system?

Yes i am fully aware of that - it is a pain in the arse to fill up - but i have done 3k miles so far and it is holidng up just fine :)

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polo6n2g40

some food for thought, which i may be looking into with the bora is the iirc Belgium mk1 golf vr6 (that won best mk1 at edition '10) the strut brace is the header tank.

is small but holds more than the inline cap and has the benefit of being the highest point and easy to fill. 8-)

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Guest Bodyman

MR2 filler, bolted through the bulkhead/scuttle where the ign coil is usually located.

Battery in boot.

rear of car stripped.

After removing the expansion bottle, i've got a flashing coolant light, how do i get around this? Resistor the same value as a full expansion bottle?

Polished my rocker cover too, need to tidy up my wiring loom now and i'll be happy!

Rollcage and Buckets next!

Brides or Teg DC2 Recaros... hmmmm

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famoussas08
MR2 filler, bolted through the bulkhead/scuttle where the ign coil is usually located.

Battery in boot.

rear of car stripped.

After removing the expansion bottle, i've got a flashing coolant light, how do i get around this? Resistor the same value as a full expansion bottle?

Polished my rocker cover too, need to tidy up my wiring loom now and i'll be happy!

Rollcage and Buckets next!

Brides or Teg DC2 Recaros... hmmmm

the plug that used to go on the top of the filler bottle.... cut the plug off and connect the wires together :)

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DubbPrince
some food for thought, which i may be looking into with the bora is the iirc Belgium mk1 golf vr6 (that won best mk1 at edition '10) the strut brace is the header tank.

is small but holds more than the inline cap and has the benefit of being the highest point and easy to fill. 8-)

Took photos of this at Edition, seen it a couple times now...they are mainly on mk1's. Great idea! in terms of filling mods, its up there with an oil filler cap mounted flush inset in the door shut. I saw this on a mk2 years ago! never seen it done since... 8-)

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