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Andy

Turbo Squareback - 20 year refresh

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Andy

The beginning of the bodyshop session:

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Bit of a hole near the strut. Fortunately patchable rather than needing anything too drastic.

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Seam sealer stripped back for stitch welding the chassis legs.

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Rot behind the servo was a bit worse than anticipated:

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Battery tray rot looks pretty bad, but it's saveable. Luckily with the dash and carpet etc. out it's not too bad a job to do.

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Bit of grot around the rear window surround, at this stage looked saveable without too much work.

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Filling and smoothing of 20 years worth of trolley dings etc.

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Then a week or so later, all of the rusty bits had been identified with no nasty surprises which was a relief. Most of them were treated at this stage and prepped for welding.

Rear window crust now treated, and almost ready for welding:

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Few shots of other treated rusty bits:

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More to follow - hoping to finally collect it from the bodyshop this afternoon.

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MaxGT

Gees, didn't think this was that bad!

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Andy

It wasn't bad at all apart from the battery tray. Things always look worse once you've started hacking and grinding at them to get back to totally clean metal.

For example - inner wing after I scraped it back and stabbed at it:

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Inner wing after bodyshop had ground out any signs of tinworm - a hole appears!

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On the whole project the only surprise was the tailgate. What was a small visible rust bubble above the badge turned into a fucked tailgate surround. Didn't look too bad at this stage...

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...but once the rust was ground on the outside it ended up like this:

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A bit of welding and a skim and it'd be fine for several years, but I want this to last another 20 years without needing a rebuild, so the underside of that area needed taking back to healthy metal too for me to be happy. As it was difficult to get a tool in there it'd have cost me a fortune in labour to get cleaned up for paint, so I bought a new tailgate in the end.

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Andy

It was done by Eastcote Customs:

http://www.eastcotecustoms.com

Those guys also did Alex's GT/G40 too, and have recently done some work on Yoof's as well. As for price it'll very much depend on the condition of your car and what you want doing - I could've bought a decent G40 for the amount of money mine's cost.

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liam7316
Ahh I see, petes and yours both look bob on as does alex's!

So its going rate really, 1500/2 grand ish...?

Bodywork is something I can't see myself trying to save money on as it is after all the largest area of the car and what gives people that first impression!

For a full strip down respray, as opposed to a blow over. Your looking at in excess on 2k mate. Its just so labour intensive to get a really good finish that if it costs any less it might well be a pretty second rate job.

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MaxGT

I suppose so, its just i've seen it a few times in flesh and it looked exceptionally clean, i may have had the beer goggles on at the time though :lol:

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cam_d_

five stars :) great project !

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Yoof

Picked this up yesterday, going back for a few minor imperfections to be corrected, but the paint is awesome.

Can't wait for it to be built back up and convoying to some shows again, last time we both did that must have been 4/5 years ago!

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Andy
Ahh I see, petes and yours both look bob on as does alex's!

So its going rate really, 1500/2 grand ish...?

Bodywork is something I can't see myself trying to save money on as it is after all the largest area of the car and what gives people that first impression!

For a full strip down respray, as opposed to a blow over. Your looking at in excess on 2k mate. Its just so labour intensive to get a really good finish that if it costs any less it might well be a pretty second rate job.

Bang on. I wasn't going to spend £10k on welding and paint, which you can easily do if you're looking at nut and bolt restoration type stuff, but equally a £1k respray is a false economy IMO - or you're getting mate's rates/free labour!

You can save a bit of cash on labour by stripping the car down yourself, but I wasn't going to start doing prep - I left that to the bodyshop, that way it's clear-cut who's responsible for the quality of the finish.

Now have this back home. :-D Will go back to them once built up for a final flat and polish and a couple of touch-ups once the paint's fully dry.

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erixtar1992

will both of your mk2f's be on the road for poloshow then?

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Andy

Time for an update...

Mint tailgate was sourced - £65 seemed cheap compared to nearly £300 that VW wanted...

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Masked up and had its first blow over of primer:

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Was spending far too much time on t'internet trying to source little odds n sods for the rebuild. Am a bit shocked by how much is obsolete these days, 'til I remind myself this is a 20 year old car. Anyway, some fairly hefty orders went into TPS and VW Heritage while I cracked on clearing out the garage ready for the car's return.

New tailgate seal came from eBay:

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Was supposed to be genuine VW, but it's about as genuine as the stuff you get from GSF these days... Anyway, the seal is the right profile and length, so it'll do!

Odds n sods

Time for another lambda boss in the downpipe. Unfortunately it's warped during welding, so bought an M18x1.5 tap and 16.5mm drill bit to sort it. Can't complain, a mate welded it for nowt.

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Have never been happy with the old probe location as a probe there always seemed to read 0.5-1.0 AFR richer than at tailpipe. Meant for trouble come MOT time, so will see if this sorts it or whether it's a leak in the ancient Tube Torque pikey exhaust. Ultimately not too arsed as I'll be getting a custom downpipe made once it's back on the road to mate up to a shiny new PPP system I've got.

Cleaned the gearbox up with alloy wheel cleaner - before and after:

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Cleaned up the water pipe from the back of the block and painted it in stove enamel (I knew there was a reason we paid a fortune to have a fancy wood burner fitted - free paint!):

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Decided to get a load of bits powder-coated though, and threw this in with them. Should've been ready today, but have to wait to the end of the week.

Electrolysis for de-rusting

Promised to post some info on the electrolysis process to de-rust stuff. This is my setup:

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Basically a big bucket filled with water and soda crystals. Then a sacrificial anode is added and connected to the positive of a power supply. I used an old steel baking tray for the anode which needs regular cleaning off with a grinder, but stainless steel works even better - though I think it makes the water a bit more toxic at the end.

You then insert the item to be derusted as the cathode and connect it to the negative supply. In my case I wired the rusty items up, wrapped the wire around the block of wood, and clipped on my negative supply lead.

I measured the current from the power supply, and found moving the parts closer together to get a current of approx 1.5A @ 14V worked well - otherwise you're waiting for hours and hours. Makes lots of pretty coloured scummy bubbles, but gets the rust off.

If you've got utterly fucked parts, this won't save them as it can't magic metal back that's no longer there! But it will save hours with files/wet n dry etc. trying to clean mildly manky stuff up. Might need to repeat it a few times with scraping down inbetween to remove the scabby bits, but worked well. Sadly no pics, as I forgot before dropping things off for powder coating!

Bodyshop update

And finally some more progress from the bodyshop.

First up, the 'Yoof' chassis leg re-inforcement:

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Secondly, the VW repair manual re-inforcement plates on the inner wings - can't hurt, and made sense while it was in bits:

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And finally, some stitch welding:

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erixtar1992

Looking great that!! Cant wait to see it done :)

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harris.racing

Looking good Andy, cant wait for it all to be done :)

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prankstar2003

Love the electrolysis Andy, I hadn't ever thought of that. Why the soda crystals; does that make for a particiularly good electrolyte? What do you do with the Sodium Hydroxide solution at the end?

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Andy

Soda crystals are uber cheap and work well. Don't use salt as you end up with a garage full of chlorine gas... The solution at the end is still only a very weak alkali, so can chuck it down the drain - just like you would if you were washing your clothes in the stuff! Mine's still in the garage though, keep searching for things around the house to de-rust.

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prankstar2003

I was going to ask if you had tried NaCl, but then remembered the Cl gas! I'll have to have a shot at this, and see if it works better than the vinegar I tend to use

Have you tired plating anything in the same way out of interest? You could raid your copper collection and have some tasty copper plated parts :?

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Andy

Update time.

Weld and filler, final bits of rust are fucked off:

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Some higher resolution pics of the stitch welding and battery tray repairs, still in the process of being tidied up ready for primer (at least that's what I thought at the time!). Metal used is plenty thick enough, so hopefully that battery tray will last at least another 20 years before deciding to rust to bits again!

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The only brand new panel that I bought, and although it's not rusty, it's dented to buggery. Not initially apparent from the satin primer, but looks like warehouse staff or the couriers have played football with it. Still, it'll only require very very minimal filling, but it's still annoying! The secondhand tailgate I bought is utterly mint though and ding free.

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Got some bits done by ASAP powder coating and blasting in Coventry. Turnaround was just over a week and was £60 for a big box full of brackets and things.

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Sorted the lambda boss too. Time for the big shag drill bit and tap. Considering the bung that'd seized in there wouldn't shift I was expecting to be unable to resurrect the threads, but came out okay.

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MaxGT

Good work, just stumbled across a video of this on youtube, looking at eaton'd VW's

Looked quick! beat a dark blue mk1 golf with white mini-lite looking wheels.

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Andy

Think that was the 13.6s run I did. Was running a bit more boost after that, so once it goes back together with decent suspension and an LSD I'd hope to shave some more off that time.

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Andy

Primered:

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Painted:

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Back home (take 1):

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MoustacheG40

Excellent read, absolutely love the colour mate! :thumbsup:

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MaxGT

I thought you and pete had them sprayed at the same time??!?!

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Andy

I'm doing these updates slightly retrospectively Max, so the thread on here is a couple of months behind.

So I'd been a bit distracted, came back from honeymoon and the day after collected the car from the bodyshop towards the end of June. I was quite disappointed as they'd only sorted about a third of the bits I'd ask them to whilst I was busy getting married etc. - and in 5 weeks they'd had plenty of time...

Anyway, brought the car home and sulked for a bit. Cheered myself up by getting a new daily!

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Then after Polo Show, BVF and a whole load of shite weather I got stuck in. This is how the bodyshop left the battery tray welding on the inside:

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Pretty isn't it?! It's seam sealed on the outside, but the welding's rather crude to say the least and there are plenty of holes. Anyway, it's now Vactan'd to treat the surface rust, and will get undersealed to hopefully keep it water tight.

The stitch welding they'd done on the turrets and chassis legs had unsurprisingly melted the underseal on the inner arches. Unfortunately the bodyshop saw fit to leave most of it as it was. This photo is after I've quickly whacked some Vactan on there to protect and treat the bare metal before it gets any worse:

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So tonight I've scraped all the burnt underseal off and wire-brushed all the welds so I can treat them:

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And now treated with Vactan:

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Here's the stuff in question - available on eBay pretty cheaply. It's like Krust, but better... Used in marine applications so I figured it'd be reet on a car too.

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Random photo of one of the topmounts. These are about 25,000 miles old - but aren't half as fucked as Polo ones usually are. I can only assume that as circa 20k of that mileage is with a subframe, the frame stopping the struts wondering around must help!

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Andy

Undersealed both front arches:

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Painted the underside of the battery tray repairs too:

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And also added more underseal to the topside of the battery tray to fill a few pin holes in the bodyshop's Stevie Wonder welding - will have to repaint the battery tray myself once it's dried:

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erixtar1992

Not looking too bad! For a bready ;) lol

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