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LukeBuxton

Hey guys I am having some issue with rust on my arches of my 6n2. Could anybody supply me with a full list of supplies and a step by step method for sorting the rust using rattle cans if possible. If not what would I need for using correct spray equipment (I have nothing)

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caretakerplus

Welcome to the Forum.

If you can supply some pictures of the rust affected areas, it would help us to give a more detailed answer.

You will need a range of 'Wet or Dry' (abrasive paper) from coarse to very fine.

An angle grinder (with appropriate discs/abrasives) would speed up the job, but are not essential - The object is to get down to bright clean metal.

There are many brands of rust remover/preventer on the market, but 'elbow grease' is the main ingredient.

If this is a one-off job, there is little point in buying a compressor and spray gun, but if you can borrow or hire these, you might well finish up with a better job.

If you do use rattle cans, it is cheaper to get these from factors than from the likes of Halfords, but do make sure that they are all from the same batch, or you could end up with different shades of the same colour.

When you buy the paint, be sure to quote the correct colour code from your car (probably found inside the boot)

Suggest that you have a search of this forum for step-by-step instructions if you need these.

Regards

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rzva2169

Hi, I'm body work professional myself, I can give some advice if needed. However, if there is some rust on your wheel arches, there is a good chance that there is rust everywhere around your polo. The best thing to use to stop the rust would be canadian made Krown T40 rust inhibitor, simply spray it on the rust and leave, that stops it from further rusting, spray it everywhere else as well to protect things that hasn't rusted yet. I know this because two of my mk1 Derby's rusted away beyond repair before I discovered that stuff. You can get that on ebay. Or if you want to do a bigger job, I can supply a special spray gun and 1L bottle of that rust proofing solution.

IMG_2562.jpg

Edited by rzva2169

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rzva2169

No, this is not the same, this is thinner, runnier, therefore it is easier to spray into any tight spaces. Also it gets where you can't even see. I did some tests, sprayed one small spot on inside of the door and after a couple of days that spot was like four times bigger, so I'm pretty sure that it seeps into all welds and crevices as that is where rust usually starts.

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steveo3002

so are you the ebay seller ?

always intrested to hear about new rust treatments ...does it dry to a waxy film then or what

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rzva2169

Well, here I'm more like polo enthusiast than ebay seller, but yes, I do sell this on ebay as well.

This comes from canada and is the best rust protection there, they have harsh winters and salty roads and big rust problems

this stuff does not dry solid, it is like semi-jelly, semi-liquid, appears like thin oil but it does not dry, it stays on the surface and repels moisture, basically preserves the surface wherever sprayed on. I usually spray all the door edges from inside, around the door handles and underneath the weather strips when working on a car as this is where the rust usually starts.

canadian page is krown.com and that is the same stuff that I'm talking about here, but is has never been sold in UK before

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steveo3002

so say if you treated a wheel arch or engine bay , then later on jet wash does this stay on or wash off

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rzva2169

From a smooth surface it can be washed off with a hot jet, but you can't rinse it away from all small gaps and cracks, say, where wing is bolted to body, and where rust usually tends to develop

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steveo3002

intresting

you should start a thread with some demo pics , maybe a forum discount etc

do the rattle cans come with a injection lance thingy for poking in sills etc

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rzva2169

Yes, its something like wd40 has

Actually, 6years ago I did a full respray on my 86c latest facelift, it was a little rusty here and there, did a full strip-down and before putting everything back I sprayed everything with this rust proofer, sold it to my mate a bit later and still today there is almost no rust at all, except little bit on one wheel arch, where it had washed off over years

IMG_2563.jpg

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1vw2many

Ok so price what we looking at ?

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rzva2169

it goes on ebay for 11£ it's a 400ml spray can but if anyone has interest to test this out, we can sort out something

one can would be plenty to do all the bits that's subject to rust on one small polo. There is some more info on facebook Krown uk

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1vw2many

Dude I give it ago but both my mk2f are already blasted top to bottom with waxyol so may be I try some on my beetle ...you local to me ?

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rzva2169

I'm in Birmingham, Great Barr, welcome to stop by and see what's what

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1vw2many

Ok may just do that and if you over my way you welcome too drop in ..

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Mclovin

The only way to deal with rust properly is to cut it out and put new metal in. Spraying stuff on top of rust is still going to leave weak shitty metal under whatever you've coated it with. Stuff like that are preventative measures rather than a fix.

If all you have is surface rust then clean it up to good metal and put some decent paint on it. Once it's sorted then you can use rust prevention products, but if the metal is already at a crispy stage then cutting it out is the only cure for it.

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MikeyMK

Arches and sills tend to rust from the inside out, as the inside is not so well protected (no paint, just the factory dip). The inside cavities get condensation in, this all drips down into closing gaps where the moisture sits and rusts out.

Spraying stuff on the exterior is pretty pointless. Driving in the rain blasts it off. Stone chip is something else entirely and gives it that shield.

This stuff looks good for internal cavities but there are lots of spray greases available - i have a load of cans of Unipart tacky spray grease. It's for industrial chains and stuff, that waxy grease on the chains and bearings of fairground rides.. It sprays on like oil and behaves as such, dripping down and penetrating everywhere. But once there, it thickens up and half sets to form a glue-like, tacky, sticky grease.

Amazing stuff for rust proofing car bodies.

It was astoundingly cheap on ebay, like just over a quid for a 400ml can! I bought eight cans and will be using it for my MK2 once it's all welded up.

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rzva2169

These greases are pretty good too, I used some of these before, though I find that they tend to dry and crack, I have tried waxoyl too, but that uses solvent that dries and leaves only hard wax residue, therefore I can suggest this canadian stuff which is exactly for spraying inside of sills, box sections, inside of doors and wheel arches as it is there, where the rust always starts.

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Mclovin

As someone that deals with rust on a daily basis I agree with Mikey. Unless you are spraying this stuff into a new car it's gonna be pointless, anything other than that and the damage is done before you've even sprayed it in.

The problem is that in Canada they have a totally different attitude to this sort of thing. Their winters are so bad and they are so used to dealing with it that preventive maintenance is the norm (where this stuff probably comes into its own). Here it's totally different and we very much tend to wait until there's a visible problem before anything is done about it, by which time it's too late for this sort of stuff to do anything.

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MikeyMK

Well i'm certainly going for the preventative option now i have found a mint car. I already have my product but i am having second thoughts about spending a little more and getting some of this stuff just for the worst areas.

The problem i found with the blue coupe though, these pre-'95 Polos have a major design fault which results in a huge rust issue and a coating is only part the answer. These cars rust by far the most in one particular place, and there's a reason for it.

Inside the rear wheel arch on the driver's side is the petrol pipe. The inner panel then forms around this, the outer panel covers it closely to the arch. Where they part, a pipe is welded into place as a hall to take an airlock pipe from the filler neck to the tank.

Everything flung off the back wheel (such as salty mud) is blasted down this pipe. Mine was choc-full of mud. The pipe then rots, allowing this corrosive compound access to the entire cavity. So instead of condensation like the passenger side, we have salt water and dirt.

All of the damage here is in the blast area from the tyre, and so not renewing the stonechip was probably my biggest mistake. As someone said on here a couple of years ago when it happened to his - "It's funny how VW saw fit to equipe the car with plastic wheelarch liners at the front, but not the rear." Well clearly this can be prevented, i may try and find some shield of the sort for that but some proper exterior stonechip on the outside and penetrating spray for the inside is clearly essential - because this car is almost rust free other than this rear offside corner!

102_1.jpg

Edited by MikeyMK

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wizardmanjm

Well i'm certainly going for the preventative option now i have found a mint car. I already have my product but i am having second thoughts about spending a little more and getting some of this stuff just for the worst areas.

The problem i found with the blue coupe though, these pre-'95 Polos have a major design fault which results in a huge rust issue and a coating is only part the answer. These cars rust by far the most in one particular place, and there's a reason for it.

Inside the rear wheel arch on the driver's side is the petrol pipe. The inner panel then forms around this, the outer panel covers it closely to the arch. Where they part, a pipe is welded into place as a hall to take an airlock pipe from the filler neck to the tank.

Everything flung off the back wheel (such as salty mud) is blasted down this pipe. Mine was choc-full of mud. The pipe then rots, allowing this corrosive compound access to the entire cavity. So instead of condensation like the passenger side, we have salt water and dirt.

All of the damage here is in the blast area from the tyre, and so not renewing the stonechip was probably my biggest mistake. As someone said on here a couple of years ago when it happened to his - "It's funny how VW saw fit to equipe the car with plastic wheelarch liners at the front, but not the rear." Well clearly this can be prevented, i may try and find some shield of the sort for that but some proper exterior stonechip on the outside and penetrating spray for the inside is clearly essential - because this car is almost rust free other than this rear offside corner!

102_1.jpg

I'm pretty sure there is a build thread somewhere on here and somebody had a nice black cutout of acrylic or something to shield the neck area after welding and treating the area.

I know mine will be somewhat rotten there two but I'm honestly just scared. I have a welder but I don't want to start cutting in my exterior panels incase I can't get them back perfect and I also just had both sides of the car professionally sprayed so I'm waiting for another day.

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MikeyMK

Replacing a section of rear quarter is more difficult than replacing the whole thing, as with the latter it's more a case of hidden plug welds. My approach was chosen purely because my donor panel was from a breadvan and i was confident of replacing just a patch.

I'm not so confident of replacing the entire chassis leg, though..

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prankstar2003

I think it was Gaz who patented the filler pipe splash guard.

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Vic

I know Steve Morris had one on his mk2 saloon.

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