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TheMrBaggles

Mk2F Polo gearbox removal

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TheMrBaggles

Good morning everyone;

I have spent most of this morning trawling the forum and internet for a basic guide on how to remove a gearbox from a Mk2F. Sorry if there has already been a topic on this.

Does anyone have any advise or instructions on how to remove the gearbox as I am completely stumped on where to begin.

Many thanks in advance!

Tom

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steveo3002

get yourself a haynes manual

basicly

jack the car and place it on stands

remove both driveshafts

speedo cable and starter wires off , undo the gear linkage

support the engine with a jack or from above

unbolt all the gearbox - engine bolts and mounts then man handle the gearbox off , its heavy so a helper would be handy

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TheMrBaggles

Do you have any photos of where all the bolts are? I'm buying a Haynes manual on Friday but I don't't have any money until then and I need it out soonerr than later

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steveo3002

no...but just look even the haynes wont photo every bolt

maybe its not for you...its not a nice job

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TheMrBaggles

I don't mind if its not a nice job, half the reason I bought another polo was so I could learn the practical side rather than just have the theoretical knowledge. Cheers for the help :)

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steveo3002

yeah well thats how you learn , should be fairly obvious what to do if you take your time

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kwijibo_coupe

It is a nice easy job compared to doing a gearbox on a lot of other cars.

Even tooling is pretty simple, you need an M8 multispline bit and a good 30mm socket for the driveshafts but the rest is just 13mm, 17mm and 19mm sockets and spanners pretty much.

I've taken one out entirely by myself with the use of 1 trolley jack and a basic tools before, the hardest part was putting it back in and I got a hand from a mate to help me support it in place. I would advise having someone with you for your first attempt though. Gearboxes aren't heavy but it wouldn't be the nicest thing in the world if one fell on you.

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MikeyMK

30mm socket?

Don't make life hard for yourself and undo things you don't have to. I don't even take the hubcaps off the wheels (although if i'm removing the wheels anyway then i'll undo the splined bolts from beside the car on a very long extension bar). Just the nearside inner suspension arm bolt, undo ARB at that end, chassis brace. Gearbox mounts (but not engine mount). But remove the dizzy cap first, else it'll get ripped off by the rad pipe when you lower the gearbox.

Edited by MikeyMK

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Jake

Its not too bad, I've just put a new one in my G40, for like the 5th time, getting it back in is a mare compared to taking out.

If you remove the anti roll bar it makes it sooooo much easier! I remove everything once up and on blocks.

Taking out and putting back in, I set aside a Sunday for, I work at a very casual pace !

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Fungus

Don't forget a couple of plastics bags to go over the inner CV's when they inevitable fall on some dirt/gravel

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Vic

I bought a cross beam that sits in the wing channels and allows the engine to be suspended from it. Made swapping boxes in my mk2 really easy and I even suspended the new box from it to help with alignment.

Happy to lend it to anyone that needs to change a box.

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steveo3002

anyone ever aquired the vw tool for gear linkage aligment , I've always managed but its hard work with the mrs being the helper lol

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kwijibo_coupe

If I'm doing it myself I select 1st gear then position the linkage accordingly. Haven't got it wrong yet.

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rico

Don't forget the 11mm screw that secures the dust shield. You probably wont see it as they are usually covered in filth and right underneath. Otherwise, it's straightforward, you can get at everything; starter motor, driveshafts, speedo cable and linkage off, undo the bolts and drop it on the floor.

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MikeyMK

I've replaced that 11mm screw with a clutch pressure plate screw (9mm splined). This as part of 'uniformity' to make working on the car easier. Having parts on my car from so many eras i initially ended up with needing too many tools to work on it, so i've done away with oddities such as torx heads - and that ridiculous 11mm head.

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rico

Stupid thing caught me out first time, gearbox dangling, assumed in was 10mm, covered in shit, rooted out an 11 and the dustcover ended up all bent. Easy when you know it's there, somewhat annoying when you don't. Maybe it's just me, when ever I've dropped a motor, no matter how much I check that everything is undone, something is always still attached. Easy enough the second time, but it rarely needs doing twice. A 10mm head screw would also fit to make it a little more straightforward, but you'll have a splined bit to hand because you'd be changing the clutch anyway. Check out a somewhere that refurbishes truck brakes, a place close to me will put new friction material on the plate for a tenner, while I wait. Also, regrease the actuating rod, they always gum up and make the clutch heavy and snap cables. Two minute job and the clutch is light as a feather afterwards.

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