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I have a huge hole in my exhaust, should i fix or no?


kazz900

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The flexible part of the front exhaust pipe in my polo 9n has a massive tear in it and is completely frayed. Its post cat and post o2 sensor though,

 

Im, wondering if its worth fixing though, will the reduction in exhaust back pressure be a huge problem or can I leave it as it is? Anyone have any experience with this??

 

 

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There's a precat at exhaust manifold and main cat after flexi.

 

You'll need to repair/replace to pass MOT to reduce noise and the small chance of carbon monoxide poisoning for vehicle occupants in idling stationary vehicle.

Engine efficiency is better with a non-holed exhaust because high velocity pulsed flow of hot exhaust gasses scavenges cylinders whose exhaust valve has just opened.

 

I have replaced just the flexi before... was a job of cutting and aligning and welding with correct diameter flexi. Had to because the ordered spare cat was delayed in transit. (I still have it)

 

9npoloexhaust.thumb.PNG.928ca0e7e1699583995a8e27ab6de53e.PNG

 

 

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50 minutes ago, dvderlm said:

There's a precat at exhaust manifold and main cat after flexi.

 

You'll need to repair/replace to pass MOT to reduce noise and the small chance of carbon monoxide poisoning for vehicle occupants in idling stationary vehicle.

Engine efficiency is better with a non-holed exhaust because high velocity pulsed flow of hot exhaust gasses scavenges cylinders whose exhaust valve has just opened.

 

I have replaced just the flexi before... was a job of cutting and aligning and welding with correct diameter flexi. Had to because the ordered spare cat was delayed in transit. (I still have it)

 

9npoloexhaust.thumb.PNG.928ca0e7e1699583995a8e27ab6de53e.PNG

 

 

 

Hey. thanks for the advice, you are right.

 

I have ordered the whole part for mine as I dont have a saw capable of cutting through the metal  nor can I weld. I think its slightly different than the image you posted though as it doesn't have that thicker part after the flexi - rather the pipe remains the same diameter (maybe for 1.2 rather than 1.4?)

 

Do you reckon I'll be able to fit this myself by jacking up the car or would I need a lift for this job?

 

 

 

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Give the manifold nuts a good overnight soak in WD40 or Plusgas and should be easy job.

New nuts and clamp to next section plus some exhaust putty to seal.

 

Lever to pull the bars out of the exhaust hangar rubber donuts.

 

Lift with hydraulic jack, then use axle stands, or drive  front wheels onto wheel ramps (handbrake and chock), not a widow-maker tyre change jack.

We'd like to see another topic from you!

 

Year and engine code of car helps answer questions like this. The pic is from Bosal catalogue and was best guess.

 

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8 hours ago, dvderlm said:

Give the manifold nuts a good overnight soak in WD40 or Plusgas and should be easy job.

New nuts and clamp to next section plus some exhaust putty to seal.

 

Lever to pull the bars out of the exhaust hangar rubber donuts.

 

Axle stands or wheel ramps, not a widow-maker tyre change jack.

We'd like to see another topic from you!

 

Year and engine code of car helps answer questions like this. The pic is from Bosal catalogue and was best guess.

 

 

Sounds good! I just ordered WD40 penetrating fluid (the specific one, or should I cancel it and just use standard WD-40??) and the gasket aswell, but I cant seem to find a replacement clamp or bolts, is it essential these are renewed or should it be okay to reuse them?

 

Thanks again for all your help man! I'll be sure to include my car details in posts for the future.

 

Also since you know your stuff, I was wondering if I should buy axle stands or a wheel ramp set? Which one is better do you reckon?

 

Thanks!

 

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Didn't know there was a 'penetrating WD40". If you are going to do more work I'd keep it. Getting seized nuts and bolts loose is probably the hardest part for us amateurs.

 

Axle stands are more flexible. You can take a wheel off and change the brakes or rear wheel hub bearing for example, which you can't with ramps.

If you've got a lowered car then ramps can also be difficult to drive onto without a small opening stage mime performance with bits of wood, for example. 

 

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If the clamp  comes off unbent and bolt heads and threads okay, of course. Sometimes there are fitting kits supplied with the cat.

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6 hours ago, dvderlm said:

If the clamp  comes off unbent and bolt heads and threads okay, of course. Sometimes there are fitting kits supplied with the cat.

 

okay! I will try to find some of the parts. do you know how I can identify which thread/thickness of nut which I require (without taking it off and measuring of course)

 

Also sorry for all the questions, and thank you for all the help

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On 23/04/2018 at 14:24, steveo3002 said:

try looking it up on etka.cc  they often list bolt /nut specs

 

Hmm I could'nt find it, but the ones listed on the Bosal site are M10x1.5 so i assume its the same ones, just ordered a pack of copper coated ones.

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