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Hello, I am at the end of my tether with my poor running problem. It will run if I keep blipping the throttle but won't hold a steady tick over, to be able to set the mixture setting on the carburettor. I have deliberated between the Distributor, the points the plugs the leads the coil, the ignition circuit back to the ignition switch. I even checked the connection of the harness plugs near the fuse box, all seems well.

The petrol isn't old and is 97ron super unleaded, lower ethanol? The carburettor is a recent fitted Weber 32IBF I have checked the carburettor for blocked idle jet . I have checked the ignition timing and valve timing all are within limits to run? The Weber instructions state the throttle screw should not be more than 2 turns in. The mixture screw should be within 2 turns out from fully seated. The airfilter is the standard air pan ring type.I am confident I don't have an air leakage at the manifold.

I do not possess certain tools like a gas analyser or dwell meter. Although I am satisfied my points are gapped correctly and in serviceable order.

It has got to the point where I am going around in circles. I give up in a defeated attitude. I leave it for days weeks, then decide to look at it again. I just cannot get it to run satisfactorily. To the point I am prepared to put another engine in, a 1300 electronic ignition type? If anyone has anything suitable? My engine is the last year of points ignition a 1985 GL engine coded 1043cc. In August 1985 the engine was redesigned incorporating hydraulic valve lifters, oil pump and fuel pump relocated, and electronic ignition.I cannot even use a later cylinder head?


My engine has a points distributor Z43 type, with both advance and retard vacuum pipes fitted to a green spherical vacuum chamber. Actuated by a solenoid valve and relay. That would come into operation when the engine is under load by retarding the ignition I am in the Nottingham area if anyone could lend a hand? I have rebuilt the engine within 8000 miles, new shell bearings, piston rings etc. It would be a shame if I cannot get it to run satisfactorily ever again? It is unfortunate that mobile tuners are all of the plug in diagnostics fraternity? My old engine seems alien to them.

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so is it running just slowly or misfiring /juddering ?


id try moving the idle screw until it will stay running , then try and fiddle with the mixture etc until it will stay running and gradually slow it down if possible


have you set the timing with  a timing light ?  if you dont have one loosen the dizzy and rotate it until the engine sounds happiest , although i would get the strobe light and set it properly


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Welcome to the Forum.


From what you have said, it seems to me that your problem has nothing to do with the ignition side, had it been an ignition problem, I would have almost certainly manifested itself when the engine was under load, rather than just at idle.

Although you say that you don't have any vacuum leaks on the inlet manifold, it sounds to me as if you either aren't getting sufficient petrol to maintain the idle (hence having to blip the throttle) or more likely, you DO have a vacuum leak somewhere between the carburettor and the cylinder head.

It is not unknown for the carburettor mounting rubber to split, allowing air into the manifold, so unless that is brand new and in good condition, I believe that it should be your next point to check.


As an extra check for leaks, I would treat yourself to a can of 'carb cleaner' - when you have the engine running as well as it will, spray some of that around the manifold joints - any leaks will be indicated by a change in engine speed. This stuff evaporates, so unlike spraying oil around to do the same job, it won't leave a deposit all over your engine.


Have you double checked that the idle jet is in fact of the correct size? - You could even experiment with the next size up.


After all of that expense and work on your engine, it would be a real shame at this stage to contemplate fitting a different engine. Not only that, but as you have a classic motor there, you would also detract from its authenticity by 'modernising' it.



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