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Mk2 polo 1043cc acceleration issue


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I've recently bought a 1982 polo breadvan with 1043cc engine and manual choke carb and it idles fine, starts fine and runs okay apart from sputtering every now and then.

It appears that it's fine when throttle is wide open but when pulling away or changing down gears and pulling away it struggles causing the car to kangaroo before picking up again. I'm having to compensate with high revs when pulling away to avoid it stalling and those skinny little tyres struggle enough for traction and wheelspinning away from every junction isn't as fun as it sounds.

Just wondering if anyone has had similar issues or any idea what to look for?

I'm assuming its carb related so I'm assuming that will need to come off and have a good clean. 

Any help or advice will be much appreciated 

Thanks

Dan.

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nige8021

The main cause for problems are the rubber gasket under the carb, they split and upset the mixture by allowing extra air to enter, so try rocking the carb and see if you have any movement, if so you need to replace the gasket.

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I've pulled the air box off this morning and checked the rubber gasket and visually looks fine some minor movement but feels like it's just the give of the rubber it's not loose at all and it maintains smooth idle whilst trying to rock the carb would you say this needs changing or does it sound okay?

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steveo3002

listen while its running ...if you push and pull on the carb is there any sucking noises , does the engine note change at all as you mess with it

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steveo3002

prob okay then

 

has it been serviced , inc points etc ...at this stage id make sure its fully serviced with good brand parts , carb off and cleaned , new fuel filter and see where its at 

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That's my thought the guy I bought it off has put new leads on but I'm not sure about anything else I'll pull the carb this weekend and give it a good clean, I fitted a new fuel filter this morning and gave the carb a blast with some aerosol carb cleaner so we will see if that has made any difference when I take it out later

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steveo3002

the points ign system needs regular maintenance to stay good , not sure if you can convert these to elec ign?

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Points don't seem to bad I've given them a quick scrub with some Emery paper on the feelers gauge, gap appears about .015" not sure what correct gap should be but the rotor arm looks old so at the very least I'll need a dissy cap and rotor arm I think 

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Okay so I went to start the car and it wouldn't fire just kept turning over sounded like either no fuel or no spark

So I had a blash around with carb cleaner and still no joy fiddled all the wires I could see and another blast of carb cleaner and it was the same for a while then started to try to run. After a few goes of it trying it finally picked up and was running rough but a bit of revs seemed to smooth it out after sputtering alot and was holding a smooth idle again so I drove the car to my dads to pick up my other car incase this one wouldn't start again in the morning and the car drove beautifully no jerking and pulling away smoothly. I noticed that I had lost my radio once I had finally gotten it started which is making me think that maybe this could be an electrical issue rather than carburetor problem? What do yous think?

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Well yes, check the fuses. 

Haynes p. 134 "The main positive feed is protected by one of the main fuses."

Haynes p.119 lists the fuses and ratings - fuse 11 is radio and clock and interior light..

 

11 is bottom row 3rd from right.

 

 

Might be an extra inline fuse for aftermarket radio.

Supply is red, backlight is blue/grey. 

 

For engine, there's inlet manifold preheater, idle cutoff solenoid,  idle stabilisation valve and 1.3 Polo Pierburg have constant heat in the bypass part channel.

 

Looks like all those fuse 9 which is far right on bottom row.

 

 

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It is indeed aftermarket radio which seemed to light up dimly but not turn on, interior light still works I replaced all fuses with new ones when I bought the car last week but this doesn't mean they're fine so I'll check them in the morning 

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🙂 clean the fingers that hold the fuses too with the Emery paper.

 

Contact breaker gap is specified to be 0.4mm (0.016 ").

Dwell setting is 47deg +-3 

and wear limit 42 to 58 deg

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I'm thinking I might replace the points along with rotor arm and dissy cap.

is there any importance of rotor arm mine appears to be a big chunky thing but euro car parts only seems to offer a more plain skinnier version? Would that be okay or should I source the same kind as what I already have?

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steveo3002

important bit is the shaft dia...some big chunky ones had a built in rev limiter thats nots req

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Contact breaker needs Intermotor 22110 compatible for 1043cc.

 

It is fairly chunky. Bought this by accident years ago.. I have a 1.3 and electronic ignition 🙄

WIN_20190207_08_17_08_Pro.jpg.9557c25ff761e3d2339257649aeec175.jpg

 

See fitting list at bottom of this page

https://www.classicpartsshack.co.uk/store/p2752/Ford_Ford_Escort_Cortina_Fiesta_Transit_Porsche_911_Volvo_Renault_Alpine_Mercedes_Benz_Opel_Manta_Ascona_Kadett_Saab_Vauxhall_Chevette__Intermotor_Contact_Breaker_Points_2211_.html

 

 

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